Category Archives: Cheese

Tasting Wine and Cheese from Northern Italy

Last month I received tasting amples from the Monti Trentini cheese company located in Northern Italy. Michele and I liked the cheese and Michele also used them for some meals she prepared for us.

Two weeks ago another invitation came from the Monti Trentini company and this time it was for a wine and cheese tasting to be held at Eataly Flatiron in NYC.

The speaker was Maria Vittoria Finco, member of the Finco family that owns Monti Trentini, and their Marketing and Communications Director.

Maria said that the company began in1925 in the town of Enego, located in the Asiago Plateau, in old artisanal dairy where the Finco family started making cheese

In 1989 they started Casearia Monti Trentini in Grigno Valsugana in Trentino. Today the third and fourth generations of the family operate the full cheese making activity at the Grigno factory.  The old dairy is still used for the production of Asiago, which Maria called the “Product of the Mountain,” and its aging caves.

Maria Vittoria said that Monti Trentini, with almost 100 years of experience, produces 30 different types of cheeses, from the well known and appreciated Grana Padano to a trendy cheese with truffles.  “Everything that we produce is made in our plant in northern Italy surrounded by the Alps. We collect our milk in Trentino and Veneto regions of Italy and we produce, age and pack cheeses in the same location.”

Maria Vittoria told us some interesting and amusing stories about growing up in a “cheese family,” but said that she does not eat in every night.

The company’s exceptionally long tradition in the production of cheese made from the milk of mountain grazing cows from the Dolomites Mountains gives the cheese a unique fragrances of herbs and a distinctive yellow color.  They only make cow’s milk cheese.

For the tasting, the cheese was arranged clockwise beginning at 12:00: Asiago, Caciotta Erbe, La Malghe di Vezzena, Aged Truffle Caciotta.

Ferrari Brut NV Methodo Classico 100% Chardonnay. Trento DOC.  The grapes are picked by hand at the end of August and beginning of September. They come from various communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi. The vineyards are between 300 and 600 meters above sea level, with southeast or southwest exposure. The wine is aged for at least 24 months on the lees. Selected yeast from Ferrari’s own cultures are used. The wine has hints of apples, wildflowers and a delicate touch of brioche and undertones of ripe citrus fruit.

We tasted the Ferrari brut with the Asiago and the aromas and flavors of the wine blended very well with the soft creamy flavors of the cheese.

Asiago  PDO Fresco produced from with cow’s milk, salt and rennet. Made only with milk from the POD area in Northern Italy. Ages for a minimum of 20 days. This is a mild cheese with a soft texture, white to pale straw in color.

Ferrari Perlé Rosé Riserva 2017 Trento DOC Method Classico Vintage 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. This is a vintage Rosé from the Lunelli family estate vineyards, harvested by hand at the end of September on the hills surrounding Trento, between 300 and 600 feet above sea level with either southeastern or southwestern exposure. In 2017 there was mild weather and perfect ripening conditions. It is aged 5 years on selected yeasts. It is an elegant and complex Rosé with ripe red berry aromas and flavors with hints of raspberry, strawberries, currants and a long finish and pleasing aftertaste. This soft semi sweet cheese was a good match with the wine as its berry flavors brought out the mild herbal flavors of the fresh cheese.

Caciotta Erbe all natural cheese with Italian  flavored with aromatic mountain herbs. It is a semi-sweet cheese and is aged for at least 5 days.

Cantina Lavis Trentino DOC Sauvignon Blanc made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards in Giovo at 300 to 450 meters. Exposure is east, south and west and the training system is Trentino split pergola. There are 5,000 vines per hectare and the soil is clay loam, fertile and of medium depth. Manual harvest takes place in late September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes in a inert environment, then a static decantation of the must. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. 10% of the wine is aged in oak barrels. The wine remains on the lees for about 4 or 5 months before bottling. The wine has hints of grass, herbs, nettles, ripe fruit with a touch of elderberry.

La Malghe di Vezzena The cheese has a semi hard compact texture that gets more granular the longer the cheese ages. This cheese was aged for 3/4 months and the one labeled Vecchio is aged from 9 months and more. This is Maria Vittoria’s favorite cheese.

This was also my favorite cheese of the tasting but the herbaceous grass flavors of the wine did not match well with the slightly caramelized cheese with hints of roasted almonds. This cheese is and very similar to Grana Padano.  I would have enjoyed it more with a spumante.

Foradori Teroldego Vignette Delle Dolomiti IGT made from 100% Teroldego from grapes grown organically. The winery is certified biodynamic. The vines were planted between  1956 and 2005. The older vines are pergola trained while the newer ones are guyot trained.  The grapes are planted in the sandy, alluvial gravel soils of the Campo Rotaliano that shows all the classic dark-fruited aromas and flavors of the grape. There are 9 hectare of vineyards across various plots. Fermentation and fining in cement tanks and then 12 months in barrel  and cement tanks. The wine has hints of blackberry, cherry, raspberry, violet and a touch of plum. I was very impressed by the wine.

Aged Truffle Caciotta Premium is a fine cheese produced with the addition of black summer Italian truffles. This would have been a perfect combination with the wine if the truffle flavor was less pronounced.

These are tasty cheeses for holiday entertaining.

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Entertaining with Cheese, Olive Oil and Wine

Around this time of year, a great and easy way was to entertain guests is with a cheese plate or charcuterie board.  Recently, I tried some cheeses that were new to me.  They were made by Monti Trentini, a family-run business located in the Trentino Region of Northern Italy.  The company was founded in 1925 and there have been four generations of cheese makers.

The company’s exceptionally long tradition in the production of cheese made from the milk of mountain grazing cows from the Dolomites Mountains gives the cheese a unique fragrances of herbs and a distinctive yellow color.  Here are the three cheeses that I tried.

LagoraiThe Lagorai Mountain region of the Dolomites gives this traditional cheese its name.  It’s texture is semi soft and the flavor is mild and pleasant with the subtle aromas of herbs and mountain flowers.  Lagorai is produced with full-fat milk and aged over 40 days. The rind is thin and elastic while the cheese is pale yellow or white with distinctive irregular holes.  Serve it at room temperature with fresh or dried fruit and nuts.

Mountain Herbs Caciotta

This delicious cheese is made from cow’s milk and flavored with aromatic mountain herbs.  It is a semi-sweet cheese and is aged for at least 5 days.  Serve it with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil or honey.

Sharp Provolone PDO

This Italian classic  sharp cheese is aged for 6 months and has a strong and partially spicy taste. This provolone comes from cow’s milk from a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), ensuring excellent quality.  Serve provolone with salami or other charcuterie.

 

Frescobaldi Laudemio Olive Oil

I have been drinking the excellent wine from Frescobaldi for a number of years now and Michele likes to use their Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil in the kitchen.  Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil has aromas of just mown grass, artichoke hearts and notes of green olives. There is a nice balance between a notable bitterness, spiciness, and a long lasting fruitiness.  Full flavored Laudemio olive oil from Frescobaldi is the perfect oil to use with fresh cheeses, as well as a finishing oil for salads, soups and other dishes.

In the Middle Ages, Laudemio was the name of the best part of the harvest, destined for the landlord’s table. It comes from the Latin word “laude,” meaning praise or excellence.

The symbol on the label is that of an Etruscan athlete signifying health and fitness  though a healthy lifestyle.  The ancient Etruscans lived in an area roughly corresponding to today’s Tuscany.

On the Frecobaldi Estate in Tuscany  there are 300 hectares of olive groves at altitudes between 200 and 500 meters. The olive harvest begins in October and stops before the end of  November. The olives are pressed within a few hours from picking in the Frescobaldi mill in Castello Nipozzano. A rigid selection is made and only the finest extra virgin olive oil is selected to become Laudemio Frescobaldi.

Frescobaldi Wines

Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2020 Frescobaldi. Made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties from the oldest vines on the Castello Nipozzano estate which have a very deep root structure. After harvesting, the grapes are transferred to the cellar immediately. They are destemmed and spontaneous fermentation takes place in cement tanks. Maceration is for 20 days with frequent pumping over of the must.  The wine remains in the vats to complete maceration.  The wine is aged for 24 months in oak barrels according to the ancient Tuscan tradition, then bottled for a time until it is ready to be released. This wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, blueberry, balsamic, and a touch of violet.

Entertaining holiday guests is easy with Montini Trentini cheeses, Frescobaldi Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Frescobaldi wines.

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Chateau Climens and Cheese a Perfect Combination

Two days after I returned from Lyon and Beaune in France, I attended a tasting of the wines of Chateau Climens, Grand Vin De Sauternes paired with cheese.

Chateau Climens is considered by many to be the number one producer in Barsac. Though Michele and I had enjoyed cheese and wine after practically every meal in France, the wines had always been red or white and I looked forward to attending.

Berenice

Château Climens’ history can be traced back to the 16th century. Lucien Lurton bought the property in 1971 and his daughter Berenice Lurton has managed the estate since 1992. In 2009 she brought the shares that belonged to her family and became the owner with 100% of the shares. We were fortunate to have Berenice as the speaker for the event.

Berenice said that the estate is located in the southern part of the Barsac appellation, just outside the small village of La Pinesse. The vineyards are all planted with Semillion grapes and lie on the highest point in Barsac at 20 meters. There are 30 hectares of vineyards stretching around the château in one continuous vineyard, which apparently has not changed since the 16th century. The soil is gravel/sandy topsoil and limestone clay subsoil. This is the “red sands of Barsac.” The average age of the vines is 35 years.

Berenice said that the micro climate of Sauternes, aided by the exceptional terroir allows for the early development of noble rot, Botrytis Cinerea. The staged harvest is meticulous in order that only grapes affected by perfectly pure botrytis are harvested. Yields can be low and vary from year to year.

The grape must undergoes fermentation in barrels without the addition of cultured yeast. This is an old technique and the only one which allows the beginning of the maceration on the lees. The wine is then aged in small oak barriques (new and used) for 20 months. The final blend takes place in vats.

Berenice said Climens is classified as a Sauternes 1er Cru Classé. In 2010 the estate was converted to biodynamic cultivation.

With the cheese we tasted 4 sauternes from Château Climens:

Cypres de Climens Barsac 2012 100%, Grand Vin De Sauternes made from 100% Semillion, like all of their wines. The winery is the only producer of single variety wines of the region.

This is the “second wine,” Berenice said, because it is the second selection from a blending, implying that there is no difference in the production process of the two wines, only the tasting deciding their future. Cyprés obeys a different idea, that of obtaining a delicious wine from an early age, while the complexity of Climens requires minimal aging of just a few years.

The wine is fresh and smooth with hints of white fruit, citrus fruit, apricot and a touch of pineapple.

Then 3 vintages of Château Climens 1st Cru Barsac Grand Vin De Sauternes 2009, 2007 and 2005

2009

2007

The 2009 and 2007 are classic Chateau Climens  wines and will only get better with age.

Berenice suggested we taste each wine with all the cheeses.

The Cheese

Saint-Nectaire (Auvergne) this is a pressed cheese matured for 6 weeks on rye straw. It is smooth but not soft, flavorful, nutty and vegetative with a touch of milk and salt.

Petite Sapin Vacherin Mont D’Or (Franche-Comté) this is a washed rind cheese ripened in spruce bark which should not be removed when serving. The cheese has a smooth, silky and buttery texture with woody and nutty flavors.

Ossau Iraty (Pays-Basque) this is a hard cheese matured for at least 6 months

Mimolette Extra-Aged (Pas-de-Calais) this is a pressed and cooked cheese matured for 18 months. The cheese is hard dry and crumbly with an orange color. It has aromas of roasted nuts with a touch of butterscotch. I kept going back to taste this cheese!

Ami Du Chambertin (French–Comté) this is a soft cheese with a washed rind by Marc de Bourgogne spirits and is matured for 1 month. It has a moist creamy texture inside, and strong sharp flavor with a savory tone.

Époisses (Bourgogne) this is a soft cheese with washed rind by Marc de Bourgogne spirits and matured for 1 month. It is creamy, firm and moist and full flavored.

Blue D’Auvergne (Auvergne) this is a blue-veined cheese matured for 3 months. This cheese is firm, buttery and slightly supple. It is full flavored, woody with spicy tones of grass and mushrooms.

Fourme d’ Ambert (Auvergne) This is a blue-veined cheese, matured for two months. It is firm without suppleness, rich and creamy, fruity and slightly salty but sweet on the palate.

All of the wines worked very well with the cheeses. 

The 2005 is fantastic. It is a complex wine with a precise balance between the sweet, acidic and bitter elements. It has hints of honey, apricot, nectarine, and marmalade,  mouth filling almost creamy with a very long finish and very pleasing aftertaste.

 

 

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