Autumn in New York is shaping up to be an exciting one. After the past two years of Covid shutdowns and uncertainties, the city is buzzing again and many new restaurants are opening. Le Gratin Bouchon Lyonnais by Chef Daniel Boulud, inspired by the bistros of Lyon, the chef’s hometown, is one that I visited the other day.
Le Gratin is located in the Beekman Hotel across from City Hall. The space was formerly occupied by Keith Mc Nally’s Augustine and the beautiful Parisian decor remains the same. A group of French speakers were seated nearby and Edith Piaf was singing La Vie en Rose. It was a little taste of France in New York.
The crisp bread was a French pain epi, named for its resemblance to a wheat stalk. It was served with good butter swirled with crystals of sea salt.:
Assiette De Charcuterie – We started with a shared plate of Terrines, Saucisson and Parisian Ham served with coarse mustard, pickled vegetables and a salad of celery root.
Quenelle De Brochet Au Gratin — A mousse-like pike dumpling baked in a rich sauce of Gruyère cheese with Mushroom Bèchamel.
The wine list has more than 100 wines with a special focus on the wines around Lyon, including Beaujolais, Maconnais, Cöte de Vienne and Collines Rhödaniennes. There is a $50 BYOB charge.
I couldn’t resist trying an order of pommes frites — French fries.
Mashed Potatoes, creamy and full of potato flavor accompanied my main dish.
Foie de Veau a la Moutarde — Calf’s Liver with Mustard Sauce was cooked perfectly.
Beaujolais “Saint-Amour” 2015 Domaine De Fa 100% Gamay from the single Vineyard Cötes de Besset at 400 meters one of the highest altitude sited in Saine-Amour. The vines are 40 years old and the soil is crushed granite, sand and big chunks of granite. Whole cluster fermentation takes place with a semi-carbonic maceration. The wine is ages in 1 -3 year old foudre. This is a wine with hints of raspberries, cherries, a note of blueberries and a touch of rose petals. It was a delight to drink and a perfect combination with the food.
Blueberry Tart with Blueberry Ice Cream was a sweet finish.
Le Gratin
5 Beekman Street NYC in The Beekman Hotel
212-597-9020
Open for Lunch and Dinner