Monthly Archives: December 2025

The Perfect Christmas Dinner

Michele and I always look forward to Christmas dinner with Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow. For a number of years it has been our tradition to invite Tom and Diane to our house for Thanksgiving dinner, and they have us to their home for Christmas. They are excellent and adventurous cooks.  Tom has a great wine collection and will try to find the perfect wine match each course.  Though all of our previous holiday celebrations have been wonderful, it seemed to be extra-special this year.

Champagne John Charles Ricciuti Premier Cru Réserve  NV made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and aging is in steel tanks. Residual sugar is7g/l and the alcohol is 12 %. The wine has hints of apple,  ginger with a hint of pear and a touch of lemon.


A plate of freshly baked gougeres accompanied the Champagne along with slices of felino salami, nuts and olives.

At the table, we enjoyed a first course of individual leek and mascarpone tartlets, but I forgot to take a picture!

Beaune Boucherottes Premier Cru 2012 made from 100% Pinot Noir. ”Les Boucherottes” is a premier cru vineyard at the southern edge of Beaune, bordering Pommard, with deep clay soils adding lushness and power.  2012 was a high-quality, small-yield vintage in Burgundy, known for concentrated wines. This is a serious wine with hints of dark cherry, raspberries , strawberry, and a touch of leather. This wine will last for a number of years.

Perfectly cooked prime rib of beef was the star of the evening, accompanied by sauteed mushrooms, green beans, and potato gratin.

Roast ready to serve.  Tom carved it to order.

On the plate

Grignolino delle Langhe 1979 Cavallotto Made from 100% Grignolino.

In 2017 I tasted Grignolino of the Monferrato Casalese “Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie “ 2011 Giulio Accornero & Figli made from 100% Grignolino  at the home of wine writer Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine. Most Grignolino is meant to be drunk young, within one or two years of production, so I was surprised at how well this wine had held up and I really enjoyed it.

The 1979 vintage Grignolino that Tom served was further proof that Grignolino can age.  With its spicy notes, and flavor of raspberries, pomegranate, rhubarb and a touch of smoke it was a revelation. An amazing wine!!

 

A selection of cheeses to savor with the Barolo

Barolo 2004 Marchese di Barolo  Nebbiolo grapes coming from the best crus of the municipality of Barolo. Grapes harvested in Cannubi, Sarmassa, Coste di Rose, Vignane, Preda, Boschetti and Ravera contribute to the production of the wine. The soil is rich in clay with some silt, sand and limestone. Harvested by hand, a selection of the best bunches is made in the vineyard. Each cru is vinified separately: the destemmed and pressed grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel fermenters. The maceration on the skins lasts approximately 15 days during which pumping the must over the pomace cap favors maximum extraction of the polyphenolic substances contained within the skin.  After malolactic fermentation, the individual wines obtained from the different crus are blended. The refinement of Barolo from the municipality of Barolo lasts approximately 2 years, of which the first year half of the volume is stored in small French oak barrels and the remaining half in 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels; while the second year the entire volume is brought together and the maturation ends in large traditional Slavonian oak barrels.  The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, raspberry, roses, violets, licorice and a touch of leather

Michele provided one of the desserts, a pear and almond tart.

Diane’s Christmas Cookie selection included Toll House, Peanut Butter, Granadinas and Ciambellini al Vino.

Thanks to Tom and Diane for another wonderful Christmas dinner.

Happy New Year!

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All that Sparkles for the New Year

 

 

Whether you choose White, Rosè, or Red, Dry or Sweet, Spumante or  Champagne, sparkling wine adds a festive note to every holiday get together. Here are some that you might enjoy.

Conegliano Prosecco Superiore DOCG Rive di Ogliano Brut Natural 2022 BiancaVigna made from 100% Glera from vineyards at 150 to 180 meters. The soil is clayey, limestone and rocky clay. Estate-owned vineyards are located in Ogliano. Named after the “Riva di Ogliano,” the steep hill where the grapes used to make this wine grow. Harvest is in the middle of September. Prise de mousse (sparkling process): the second fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks (cuvée close) at controlled temperatures with indigenous selected yeasts and lasts 150 days. Tartaric stabilization at low temperature. Bottle refinement for three months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of green apple, pear, peach, stone fruits and floral notes.  Alcohol: 11.5. Residual Sugar 1.5 g/l. $23

Caprettone Spumante Method Classico 100% Caprettone CasaSetaro Production zone Alto Tirone, Vesuvius National Park in the region of Campania. The age of the vineyards is 18 to 25 years. They are at 350 meters and the training system is espalier, guyot trained with a few buds per plant. Vinification: maceration at 4C in steel tanks, fermentation for 18 to 24 days, the second fermentation takes place after about six months. The wine remains on the lees for 30 months and remains in bottle for about 12 months before release.  The Caprettone grape is excellent for making Spumante method classico because it has very good body and produces a round and elegant wine.$25

Ferrari Brut NV Methodo Classico 100% Chardonnay. Trento DOC.  The grapes are picked by hand at the end of August and beginning of September. They come from various communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi. The vineyards are between 300 and 600 meters above sea level, with southeast or southwest exposure. The wine is aged for at least 24 months on the lees. Selected yeast from Ferrari’s own cultures are used. The wine has hints of apples, wildflowers and a delicate touch of brioche and undertones of ripe citrus fruit. $30

 

Durello 36 Riserva Extra Brut Metodo Classico DOC made from 85% Lessini Durello and 15% Pinot Noir Sandro Bruno. The soil is volcanic with basaltic rocks. The vineyard is 4 hectares with a southern exposure at 500 meters. The vines are 35 years old. The vineyards are cultivated without the use of pesticides. Manual harvest takes place the 3rd week of September. There is a selection of grapes followed by a soft pressing in a nitrogen saturation at a low temperature. Fermentation is in steel tanks for both grapes. After fermentation the lees are preserved by performing weekly batonnage for 8 months. Sugars 1g/l.  The wine remains on its own yeast for 36 months. It ages in bottle for 6 more months before release. This is an intense wine with mineral aromas. The wine has hints of white flowers, pear, almonds and a note of lemon. $28

Franciacorta  DOCG  Extra Brut 2018 Vintage Collection Ca’ del Bosco (Lombardia) made from 65%  Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco and 30% Pinot Nero from 27 certified organic vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and each individual bunch is washed and dried. Fermentation takes place for 5 months in oak barrels. The wine remains on the yeasts for an average of 48 months. This is an elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, apple and pear lemon and a touch of pineapple. One of my favorites. $66

Champagne Boizel Ultime Zero made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier and 30% is reserve wines. Produced only from grapes selected for their high level of maturity.  Dosage Zero  No dosage is used to give the wine greater roundness at the end of the crafting process and all the attention is focused on obtaining a very pure and subtle harmony. The wine is aged on the lees for 5 years. It is a complex Champagne fully developed with hints of peaches, white flowers, gingerbread, lightly toasted almonds and good acidity. $49

Champagne Ruinart Brut Rosé NV made from 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. About 18% of the Pinot Noir added is still wine. It has red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of raspberries and strawberries. $119

Otto Uve, Gragnano della Penisola Sorrentina DOC Made from 60% Piedirosso, Aglianico, and Sciascinoso, and 40% Suppezza, Castagnara, Serbegna, Olivella and Sauca. The eight grape varieties in the blend give this wine its name. It is a tribute to the lesser known grapes of the area. The training system is espalier. The vineyard is at 300 meters.  Harvest began on September 24th and ended on October 8th. The grapes were hand harvested into boxes of 20 kg. After destemming and crushing, maceration with the skins lasted for 5 days, soft pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press and fermentation in temperature controlled tanks at about 20C. The wine was bottled in the beginning of  December. It should be served chilled and drunk within two years after bottling. It is a slightly frizzante red wine $18

Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce IGP ‘RossoViola’ (ruby red in color) 2020 Luciano Saetti made from 100% Salamino di Santa Croce. The vines are 40 years old and the training system is guyot and spalliera. Soil is deep grey clay, sand and silt. Harvest is manual. Grapes are crushed and the resulting spontaneous fermented must goes into steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The alcoholic fermentation process is concluded without the grapes being pressed. The sediment falls spontaneously to the bottom of the tank, avoiding any micro-filtering. The spring after a second fermentation takes place in the bottle initiated by the addition of grape must at a controlled pressure and temperature. It is fermented to dryness. After refinement that takes at least four months, the bottles are hand riddled and disgorged.  The date of this operation is shown on the back label (complete with day, month and year). The wine has hints of violets and red berries with sweet spice notes and a touch of plums.  Organic certified. No sulfur is added to the wines. $21

Moscato d’ Asti DOCG Tre Secoli made from 100% Moscato. There is a soft pressing of the grapes followed by a fermentation in temperature controlled autoclaves. Sugar level is 120 G/L and the alcohol is 5%. The wine has hints of fresh fruit, white peach, apricot and ginger. $12

Asti DOCG Millesimato Cuvage Dolce 2018 made from 100% Moscato. The vineyards are at 250 to 400 meters. Grapes are harvested the first week of September. After pressing the clusters and cold static decantation, inoculation of the selected yeasts takes place with fermentation up to 5.5 degrees alcohol. Maturation of the Cuvèe is for several months in stainless steel on its own yeasts. Maturation on the lees for a minimum of 18 months and 6 months in the bottle before release. Undosed: 100g/l this sugar is the result of the natural sweetness of the must, nothing has been added. The wine has hints of brioche, freshly baked bread, white flowers, and acacia with a hint of vanilla and a touch of pepper. $19. A few months ago I went to a tasting of Asti Spumante at a Japanese restaurant and it worked with the sushi.

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Michelin Guide Now to Rate Wineries

Recently, the renowned Michelin Guide announced that they would be publishing a new guide devoted to wines.  But their new rating system does not apply to individual wines, but to the wineries themselves.  This raises a lot of questions about their system and how it will affect the wine industry which Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine, discusses at length.  Read his article on the subject below.


Michelin-starred wineries

by Daniele Cernilli, 15 December 2025

The arrival of Michelin in the wine guide industry introduces a “starred” rating system applied to wineries and not to individual wines. A choice that opens up questions: how will wineries with large productions be evaluated? How will this method be reconciled with those who have been using stars for years? And what role will The Wine Advocate, already acquired by Michelin, play?

Michelin launches wine guide: starred wineries

The news of recent times in the wine world is that of Michelin’s descent into the field.
The “redhead” will publish a wine guide, using its well-known “stars,” but not rating individual wines, but rather wineries. They will be “starred” in the same way that restaurants are, rating them with zero, one, two or three stars, while individual wines will be considered like dishes in the restaurant guide.

Stars in wine: a story from afar

I would then add that Michelin, which was definitely the first to use star rating for restaurants, is not at all for wines.
Veronelli began in the 1960s with the Bolaffi Catalogue of the Wines of Italy, where stars were used on wines.
Continued Gambero Rosso and Slow Food on Wines of Italy, where for every ten “three glasses” a star was awarded to the winery this time.

Even DoctorWine for the past twelve years has been using stars in exactly the way Michelin will do, awarding “three stars” to wineries and not to wines, rated in cents and “veneers.”

A possible “pre-use” conflict?

What will the “redhead” do in the presence of a kind of “pre-use right”?
Will you open litigation or, more appropriately, pay no attention?
Certainly DoctorWine’s Three Stars has been around for a long time and may even become a publication, who knows.

What role will The Wine Advocate?

Then, Michelin had not taken over The Wine Advocate by Robert Parker? What role will that publication play in the future? Of course, it is a newsletter and not a guide, however, always wine is being talked about and always Michelin is the publisher.
We shall see in this case, too, evidently.

Michelin-starred wineries are wineries rated using a star system, similar to that used for restaurants. The guide assigns zero to three stars to wineries, considering the overall quality of production and not individual wines.

How the Michelin-starred winery system works:

  1. Stars are awarded to wineries, not individual wines.
  2. The rating ranges from zero to three stars.
  3. Wines are examined as part of the winery’s overall production.
  4. The goal is to make a judgment about the overall level of the company.

What does Michelin rate in wineries?

Consider the overall quality of production, the consistency of the wines, and the winery’s ability to maintain high standards over time.

Why does Michelin award stars to wineries and not to wines?

Because the focus of the guide is on the overall level of the company, similar to the approach used for restaurants.

Is it possible for a large company to be penalized?

Yes, because a very large production sometimes includes ranges intended for less prestigious segments, making it more difficult to achieve the highest score.

Is Michelin the first to apply stars to wine?

No. Stars were used as early as the 1960s by Veronelli and more recently by others such as DoctorWine.

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Filed under Daniele Cernilli, Daniele Cernilli Doctor Wine

Reopening Mozzarella and Vino in NYC

Anyone who has followed my blog knows that one of my very favorite Italian restaurants in NYC is Il Gattopardo.  Now the owners of Il Gattopardo have opened, or I should say reopened, their more casual location known as Mozzarella & Vino which had been closed for renovations for some time.

Located on the ground floor of a 5-story townhouse on West 54th Street just down the street from Il Gattopardo, Mozzarella & Vino is directly across the street from the Museum of Modern Art.  It’s a long narrow space that has been given a fresh airy look.

Vito Gnazzo, Chef Partner, and Paula Bolla Sorrentino, Managing Partner

Another dining area on the second floor would be perfect for private parties.

 Chef Alessandro Pelis and Chef Vito Gnazzo of Il Gattopardo have devised a delightful menu that emphasizes the simplicity of Italian cuisine, using high-quality ingredients including classic antipasti, panini, salads, and of course, pastas.

The enoteca-style bar specializes in wines sourced predominantly from artisanal family estates and independent Italian winemakers selected for their history, quality, and value.  Their list is constantly evolving and many of the wines are offered by the glass.

Millefoglie of Polenta  Caprino cheese and bresaola.  We were intrigued by this unusual starter which Chef Vito told us was inspired by the crackling crisp Sardinian bread known as carta di musica.  Here, thin sheets of crispy polenta are layered with creamy goat cheese and housemade bresaola.

Arancini Di Sicilia — Fried rice balls stuffed with oxtail and veal ragout, mozzarella di bufala, and peas.

Citrus and Fennel Salad — Oranges and grapefruit wedges paired with shaved fennel, frisee, olives and caprino cheese.

Giardiniera — crunchy housemade pickled vegetables to accompany the salumi

Selection of Salumi included finocchiona salame, prosciutto and lonza.

Ravioli Del Giorno According to chef’s mood, says the menu.  The day I was there the mood was fresh, tender pasta stuffed with ricotta and taleggio with a delicate yellow tomato sauce.

Chill Ya Jolo 2024 IGT  Badia a Coltibuono Toscana made from 100% Ciliegiolo served chilled. Early harvest at low sugar levels. Native yeasts. Vinified only in stainless steel and aged in the bottle for 1 month. The wine is a light red color. It is a light fruity wine with hints of cherry, red fruit, and blueberry and only 12% alcohol. It was a delight to drink and went very well with the food.

Basil Panna Cotta. For dessert, we shared a delicate panna cotta flavored with fresh basil and topped with candied tomatoes.

I am looking forward to returning soon.

Mozzarella & Vino is located at 33 W 54th St, New York, NY 10019

Paula Bolla Sorrentino, Managing Partner

Gianfranco Sorrentino, in memoriam

Gabriel Berlendis, General Manager

Alessandro Pelis, Executive Chef

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