“Olivier Krug, Krug Grande Cuvée and the 1996 Vintage Krug at Keste NYC,” read the email invitation from Ed “Champagne” Mc Carthy. Ed has a long history with Krug going back 50 years. It was Ed that introduced Krug to Michele and I over 40 years ago and it quickly became Michele’s favorite Champagne. We met Ed along with Olivier Krug, and Nicole Burke, Brand Manager for Moet Hennessy, at Keste’ for lunch.
Charles, Ed Mc Carthy, Olivier Krug and Roberto Caporuscio
Krug Grande Cuvée 170 EME Edition Champagne made from 45/55% Pinot Noir, 15/20 Pinot Meunier and 25/35 Chardonnay–the percentage depends upon the vintage. The blend is made from 195 wines from 12 different vintages, the youngest from 2014 and the oldest from 1998. It is aged for seven years in the cellars. All Krug Champagnes are aged in used small oak barrels. They are all prestige cuvees made from Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages and are aged longer before release. The overall rating for the vineyards is 98% with Krug’s own vineyards rating 100%. This is a Champagne with hints of dried citrus fruit, gingerbread, hazelnuts and almonds, a note of honey and a touch of brioche. It has a long finish and a wonderful aftertaste. Fantastic! Ed looked up and said obviously this is not just another NV Champagne. $135
Roberto Caporuscio, the owner of Keste, brought us some appetizers. First was this large burrata cheese, rolled in a batter and deep fried. To make the crust extra crispy, Roberto told us he uses gluten free flour. When we cut it open, small balls of mozzarella in cream tumbled out.
Calzone — Instead of the typical ricotta filling, this calzone was filled with an assortment of meats and cheeses.
Roberto knows we always like to start with a Pizza Margherita to share, and then we let him choose the remaining pizzas.
Krug 1996 made from 48% Pinot Noir, 31% Chardonnay and 21% Meunier. 1996 was one of the best vintages of the century. It was the last vintage blended by three generations of the Krug family working together. It is made from 17 different growths. This is a champagne with rich mature aromas, full ripe flavors, hints of pear, ripe fruit, citrus, honey, gingerbread, butterscotch and brioche. It has a very long finish and a memorable aftertaste. This may very well be the wine of the century. Disgorged in 2007.
Olivier Krug told us that Krug vintage celebrates the distinct character of a particular year. A Krug vintage is a blend of the most expressive wines from a single year enhanced by a stay in the cellar of over 10 years. Every Krug is different. Olivier added that “it is the music of the year catered by Krug.”
The Krug philosophy is unique. Olivier explained that, “We take a musical approach to to Champagne creation: each plot of vines is a musician and the Cellar Master a conductor selecting those who will together preform the most generous expression of Champagne every year, Krug Grand Cuvée. Sometimes the musicians of a certain year have a unique song to play and sometimes a virtuoso soloist emerges during the auditions. Thus other Krug Champagne may also be born, making Music a natural way to reflect our craftsmanship.”
Oliver Krug told us that the 1996 vintage was a special year in Champagne. It is said to be one of the best vintages of the century and is often compared to the legendary 1928. The 1996 has special meaning for him because it was his first vintage. Also, it was the last vintage created by three generations of the Krug family working together: Paul II, Henri, Rémi, and Olivier.
Pizza with golfetta salame and black summer truffles. Golfetta is a type of salame imported from Italy made from lean cuts of pork leg.
Pizza del Papa — Perfect for Fall, we ended with this pizza that Roberto named in honor of the Pope. It was topped with butternut squash puree, cheese, peppers, and zucchini.
It was a great pleasure listening to Olivier Krug speak about his Champagne and tasting these great Champagnes with him and Ed Mc Carthy
The Champagne was Dom Perignon 2010 made from equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The grapes come from five Grand Cru villages and one Premier Cru village. This is an elegant and complex Champagne with hints of melon, tropical fruit, and mandarin orange with a hint of jasmine and a touch of spice.
With the Champagne we had crostini with piquillo peppers and marinated white anchovies.
Krug NV Grand Cuvée 168EEM Edition made from 45/55% Pinot Noir, 15/20 Pinot Meunier and 25/35 Chardonnay–the percentage depends upon the vintage. They blend about 120 wines from 10 or more different vintages and it is aged for at least 6 years in the cellars. All of their Champagnes are aged in used small oak barrels. They are all prestige cuvees made from Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages and are aged longer before release. The overall rating for the vineyards is 98% with Krug’s own vineyards rating 100%. This is a Champagne with hints of dried citrus fruit, gingerbread, hazelnuts and almonds, a note of honey and a touch of brioche. It had a very long finish and a memorable aftertaste.
With it we had smoked salmon with creme fraiche.
Sauteed soft shell crab on the pan
on the plate
Veuve Clicquot Brut NV made from 56% Pinot Noir, 16% Pinot Meunier and 28% Chardonnay. This is easy drinking Champagne, toasty with black fruit aromas and flavors.
Gosset Champagne Brut Excellence made from 24% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay and 19% Pinot Meunier from Ay-Chapmpagne, Chigny-les-Roses, Courmas, Cumieres, Avize, Cuis and Trepail. There is 100% malolactic fermentation. The wine spends 30 months in the cellar before it is disgorged. Dosage for the Brut is11g/L. It has hints of apricots, peaches, dried fruit and a touch of brioche.
Champagne Boizel 2007 made from 40% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier. 3% of the wines were aged in oak casks. The wines were aged for 7 years on the lees. This is elegant Champagne with hints of apricot, biscuits, flowers, almonds and a touch of licorice. 
Champagne Dom Pérignon 2008 made from equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The grapes come from five Grand Cru villages and one Premier Cru village. This is a very impressive champagne with great balance, elegance and complex aromas and flavors.
Champagne Marguet “Shaman 14” Grand Cru NV made from 69% Pinot Noir and 31% Chardonnay. The wine was bottled July 2016, and the disgorgement date was March 2018. There are no added sulfites and the dosage is 0. It has flavors of honeysuckle, lemon, apple and a touch of stone fruit.
Selosse Substance Avize is the essence in a single vintage from two parcels without regard to vintage variation. Always made from the same Chardonnay vineyards in Avize. A south facing slope and an east hill base. Made from a solera started in 1987. Each year 22% is taken from the solera. Dosage 0-4g/l. It has hints of apricots, pears, loads of wet stone minerality, white flowers, pumpkin pie spice, mulled cider and the signature oxidation. It may be the most unusual champagne I have ever tasted.
Alfred Gratien Brut Rosè NV made from 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 15% . The Pinot Noir is added as a still wine. After 6 months of cellaring in 228 liter oak casks, the must is transformed into wine. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The cuvee is bottled with sugar and yeast to allow for a secondary fermentation in the bottle and it remains in the cellar for 36 months. Then the disgorging takes place where the lees and sediment are removed from the bottle which is topped up with more wine and some sugar and left to rest for a few more months in the cellar. It has good red fruit with hints of raspberry and strawberries and touch of roses.
Suenen Champagne Oiry Blancs De Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut made from 100% Chardonnay from the Grand Cru village of Cramant. The soil is chalk. The vins clairs (clear wines) are fermented partially in barrel and spend 9 months on the lees. The dosage is 2g/L. This is a delicate dry wine with floral aromatics, hints of green apple, a note of yellow plums and a touch of lemon with high acidity.
Larmandier-Bernier “Latitude” Extra Brut Blanc De Blancs NV. Made from 100% Chardonnay grapes which come from the same Latitude in the southern part of Vertus. There is 40% reserve wine in the blend and the dosage is 4g/l. The wine has hints of peach, white flowers, toast and a touch of almonds.
Champagne Krug Grande Cuvèe 167EME EDITION This is a blend of 191 wines from 13 different years, the youngest is from 2011 and the oldest goes back to 1995. The final blend is 47% Pinot Noir 36% Chardonnay and17% Meunier. It is aged for about 7 years before it is released. The Champagne has hints of dried and citrus fruit, a touch of gingerbread, hints of hazelnuts, and brioche. It is Michele’s favorite Champagne.
