Category Archives: Sicilian Wine

August 26, 2025 · 2:38 am

My Birthday Weekend

Forty years ago Michele and I spent a month in  Rome in  the summer.  One of the restaurants had what I called a “Summer Pasta” and I ordered it every time we went there, which was often.  It is a very simple dish and Michele made it for me on Saturday.

Pasta with tomatoes, fresh basil and mozzarella, what I call “Summer Pasta” (though it is better known as Pasta alla Caprese)

“Fiordiligi”  Sicilian DOC Grillo 2023 Assuli (Trapani) Made from 100% Grillo. The production area in the Mazara del Vallo is in northwestern Sicily. Soil is of medium texture rich in limestone and good minerality. The vineyards are at 200/250 meters. Training system is guyot vertical trellis with a medium high plant density of 5,000 plants per hectare. Harvest is from the second week of September depending each year on the ripening of the grapes. There is an extremely soft pressing with membrane press, followed by static clarification of the must and fermentation at controlled temperatures (between 15°-18°C) in stainless steel tanks. Wine remains on the lees for 4/5 months in stainless steel tanks and in the bottle for at least 2 or 3 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, pineapple and a touch of tropical fruit.

On Sunday we were invited by a friend to Gramercy Tavern for my birthday. My friend also brought the wine

Fiano di Avellino “Alessandra” 2013 made from 100% Fiano Di Meo. The wine is named after the mother of the Di Meo brothers. Produced from  Fiano vineyards surrounding the Salza Irpinia winery. The Vigna Alessandra was planted in 1995 and is at 550 meters. Soil composition is clay and semi-limestone and the exposure is northeast. There are 4,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with monolateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest takes place the second week of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes, then maceration with the skins. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for 8 years and then for 12 months in bottle before release. This is an elegant wine with flowery notes of mimosa, chamomile, acacia honey and a touch of smoke. It is a very impressive and wonderful wine.

Lumache Pasta with Corn, Miso and Toasted Hazelnuts

 

 Pork Cutlet with Jimmy Nardello Peppers, Cabbage and Lemon

Cote- Rotie “Cote Blonde” 2009 Propriétaire à Amplus Rene Rostange made from Viognier and Syrah. The estate is in the heart of Cote-Rotie.  The vineyards are managed using sustainable agriculture. All the work is done by hand. The soil is bedrock and silica. The wine remains in the barrel, with a small amount in new oak. Vinification is a closely guarded secret. The wine has hints of violets, blueberries, blackberries, spice, tobacco and a hint of smokiness.   This wine will age for many years.

Michele’s main course was Hanger Steak with Plums, Eggplant and Shishito Peppers

Basil Olive Oil for Dessert with Cherries and Coconut Yogurt

It was a very Happy Birthday for me!

8 Comments

Filed under Cote Rote, Di Meo winery, Fiano di Avellino, Grillo, Sicilian Wine

November 8, 2024 · 4:04 am

Sicilian Wine and the Monzu’s Turkey Stuffed with Pasta

For Thanksgiving dinner, friends asked Michele to prepare a turkey recipe that she had learned in Palermo, Sicily when she was leading culinary tours.  Michele and her group had dined at the home of a former caterer and chef.  Much of the menu was based on historical recipes that had been devised by the Monzu’, French-trained Sicilian chefs who cooked for the Palermitano nobility.  When Michele and her group visited, the chef made a roast turkey stuffed with pasta.  It was unique and delicious.  Michele has come up with her own version of the Monzu’s turkey, and we have enjoyed it for several Thanksgiving dinners.

For Thanksgiving this year, our dinner will once again have a Sicilian theme so I decided the match the meal with Sicilian wines.

We’ll start with shrimp dressed with olive oil, lemon, garlic and parsley.

“Fiordiligi”  Sicilian DOC Grillo 2023 Assuli (Trapani) Made from 100% Grillo. The production area in the Mazara del Vallo is in northwestern Sicily. Soil is of medium texture rich in limestone and good minerality. The vineyards are at 200/250 meters. Training system is guyot vertical trellis with a medium high plant density of 5,000 plants per hectare. Harvest is from the second week of September depending each year on the ripening of the grapes. There is an extremely soft pressing with membrane press, followed by static clarification of the must and fermentation at controlled temperatures (between 15°-18°C) in stainless steel tanks. Wine remains on the lees for 4/5 months in stainless steel tanks and the in bottle for at least 2/3 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, pineapple and a touch of tropical fruit. $18

The Monzu’s Turkey stuffed with pasta

Il Frappato Vittoria Frappato Sicily DOC 2020  Valle Dell’ Acate (southeast corner of Sicily) made from 100% Frappato. There are 80 hectares of organically cultivated vineyards. The vineyards are at 100 meters and the soil is black, relatively compact and riddled with white stones. The soil structure makes it possible for plant roots to oxygenate freely, extending down deep into the ground. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier. Harvest takes place the first week of September.  The wine is aged in steel vats for 6 months and in bottle for at least 3 months before release. This is a fresh aromatic wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, with a hint of violets and a touch of sage.

The extra pasta stuffing baked in a gratin dish.

Nerello Mascalese Terre Siciliane Vento di Mare IGT 2021 Cantine Ermes Soc. Coop. Agr. 100% Nerello Mascalese produced from organic grapes (Colline di Gibellina in Western Sicily) The soil is mainly sandy and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place in the middle of September. The wine is aged for about 4 months in stainless steel before it is bottled.  Plum, blackberry, black cherry, touch of smoke and a note of  leather with a spicy finish. $18

Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2021 Feudo Arancio Stemmari made from 100% Nero D’Avola (Sambuca di Sicilia, in the province of Agrigento). The soil is mostly clay and the training system is espalier. There are about 4,500 per hectare. Harvest is the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and alcoholic fermentation with the skins lasts a few days in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation occurs with selected bacteria and then the wine is aged for a long period in French barriques. The wine has hints of currants, strawberries, and pomegranate with a hint of blackberries and a touch of blueberries,  $20.

Biscotti Regina, Sicilian sesame cookies are always a favorite way to end a meal.

It’s time to start making your Thanksgiving Dinner plans!

4 Comments

Filed under Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Thanksgiving 2024

August 1, 2024 · 12:59 am

Two Wines from Sicily with Dishes to Match

Michele and I have been enjoying Sicilian wines matched with some dishes which are not traditional to Sicily. The wines are versatile and can go with a wide variety of foods.  Below  are two wines and three of the dishes we matched with them.

Sicilia DOC “Dalila” Stemmari 2020 made from Grillo, a native Sicilian grape, and locally grown Viognier, a variety that originated in the Rhone Valley. The Grillo is harvested in mid-September. 70% of the grapes are destemmed and soft pressed while the other 30% undergoes maceration on the skins for several hours and then decantation of the must.  Selected yeasts are added and fermentation is carried out at a controlled temperature of 60°F for several days, followed by maturation in stainless steel tanks.
Viognier is harvested around the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and soft pressed and undergo decantation at 54°F for several hours. Selected yeasts are added and fermentation is carried out in 3-year-old barriques with light toasting, followed by long maturation in oak with periodic batonnage. 
The wines are blended after maturation, and then aged in stainless steel for an additional few months. The wine then remains in bottle until it is ready for release. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, peach, apricot, and citrus fruit with a note of honey.

We had this wine with Crostini topped with Butter and Anchovies.

Followed by Michele’s homemade Stracci Pasta with a Thousand Herbs, a recipe from her book, A Fresh Taste of Italy.

Sicilia DOC Nero d’Avola 2020 Lamǔri. Tenuta  Regaleali made from 100% Nero d’Avola at 450 to 750 meters.  The soil is sand silt-deep clay.  Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, maceration lasts for about 12 days. Malolactic fermentation is completed. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225 liter French oak barrels -Allier and Tronçais- 20% new and 80% second and third passage. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, and cherries with a note of spice and a long lasting finish.

Last but not least was Lamb Roasted with Peppers, Cherry Tomatoes, Eggplant and Onion

 

1 Comment

Filed under Nero d'Avola, Sicilian Wine, Sicily

June 17, 2024 · 1:33 am

6 Wines for 6 Dishes

Michele and I enjoy trying new wine and food combinations.  Here are six wines that Michele paired with six different dishes and they all worked very well.

FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé 2021 (Veneto, Treviso) made from 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Noir. The grapes are carefully handpicked during late summer or early fall with the perfect balance of  sugar and acidity. They are then gently pressed and the extracted grape juice undergoes its first fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  Yeasts convert the natural sugars into alcohol producing a still wine.  The still wine is transferred to pressurized stainless steel tanks along with a dose of yeast and sugar. As fermentation occurs in sealed tanks, carbon dioxide is trapped, creating the delightful bubbles. This second fermentation which gives the wine its effervescence takes place using the Charmat method, also know as the tank method. After the second fermentation the wine is left to settle in the tanks for a few months allowing the flavors to blend and the bubbles to fully develop.  It is then bottled and released for sale.

This is an elegant Prosecco with hints of raspberry, wild strawberry, citrus fruit, apple and pear with a touch of lemon and a note of wild flowers. $22

Note:  FIOL  is a term of endearment for a young man from the Old Venetian Republic language from the 1400’s.

Antipasto:  Fresh salame with Neapolitan almond taralli and olives.

Principe G 2020 dei Principi Spadafora (Sicily) Terre Sicilia Bianco IGP. Spadafora Made from 53% Grillo and 47% Cataratto. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the exposure is west. The soil is sandy, clay and the training system is simple guyot espalier. There are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is in mid September.  Spontaneous fermentation on the pied de cuve of the grapes without sulfur dioxide at a controlled temperature in cement vats. The wine is aged for 12 months in vats and 4 months in bottle before release. Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodynamic, $15

Sardine Beccafico:  Sicilian-style sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts and raisins.

Etna Bianco di Sei  2021 Palmento Constanzo (Sicily) made from 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto. The exposure is north/east and the soil is volcanic sand and rocks. Bush training with chestnut poles and the vines are up to 100 years old. There are 7,000 vines per hectare. Manual harvest the last week os September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation is in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks in contact with the lees and 8 months in bottle before release. This is an intense and elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, aromatic fruit, white flowers with hint of sage and a note of mint. $45

Note: “Bianco di Sei” refers to “six”, which is the top designation for volcanic activity, and is the top tier white wine from this estate.   The winery is at the foot of the Muntagna, the name the locals fondly use to refer to Etna. Eighteen hectares are divided into several contradas and hills. The small parcels are vinified separately because each plot is characterized by the lava flow that sedimented over time.

Pasta con le Sarde — Pasta with sardines, fennel, raisins and pine nuts, baked in a small timbale.

Barbera D’Alba Superiore 2021 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) made from 100 % Barbara from the 1.7  Roddi “Elia”vineyard which is 200/250 meters with a south-southeast exposure. There are 4,200 plants per hectare. The soil is chalky/clay and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the second week of September. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed, and placed in vats at a temperature of 18 °C for 3 days to bring out their varietal aromas. Fermentation takes place at a temperature of 26 °C, followed by a 6/8-day period of maceration and then the drawing-off. Once the malolactic fermentation took place, the wine ages for 12 months in 25 HL barrels. The wine has hints of red roses, raspberries, black cherries, blackberries and a hint of red plum. $18

Note: In the local dialect “cucco” indicates the hilltop location of the oldest part of the vineyard, inside the Cru Cerrati.

Roasted chicken with potatoes

Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2019 Tenuta Calimaia -Frescobaldi (Tuscany) . Made from 90% Sangiovese (know locally as Prugnolo Gentile) and 10% complementary red grape varieties.  Calimaia is found in the gentle hills between the Val di Chiana and the Val d’Orcia. Located around the winery’s hill, the vineyards sit at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level and are differentiated by exposure and soil type of vineyards thus helping to bring out the best in each variety grown. There are 70 hectares of vineyards. Soil is sand-veined illite clay. Manual harvest. The grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature (26 °C), and fermentation took place spontaneously. Maceration on the skins allowed for perfect extraction of the polyphenols, assisted by frequent pumping over in the initial stages of fermentation, délestage in the intermediate stage, and further pumping over in the final stage. The malolactic fermentation was completed in steel before winter. The wine matured in 50 hL oak barrels for 24 months. It then rested in the bottle for some months before release.

Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodymanic. The wine has hints of cherry, herbs, spice, and pepper, with a hint of chocolate and a note of licorice. $24

Pasta with meat and tomato sauce

Barolo Cerrati 2019 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) Made from 100% Nebbiolo from the Cerrati area in Serralunga d’Alba, the 4 hectare Vigna Cucco is at 260/395 meters. The exposure is south/southeast and the soil is shallow chalky/clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is in October. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed and then left in small vats for 72 hours at a temperature of 10°C, for pre-fermentation steeping. In this way the characteristics of this vineyard are highlighted. This is followed by fermentation with gentle steeping at a temperature of 16°C. Drawing-off takes place when the product is fully dry, after an additional fermentation for 20-25 days on the skins. Then the malolactic bacteria transform the malic acid and the wine will be ready to be transferred for the ageing process. The wine remains for 12 months in small barrels of French oak and after that, it completes its ageing process in traditional barrels for a further 12 months, until it reaches its peak. It is then transferred to bottles, where it matures for at least 6 months before being sold.

The wine has hints of cherry, blackcurrant, blackberries and mushrooms.  It is a wine that will age. $73

Prosciutto Wrapped Braised Quail with spring vegetable stew.

2 Comments

Filed under Almento Constanzo, Barbara, Barolo, Fiol Prosecco, Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Tenuta Calimaia, Tenuta Cucco, Vino Nobile di Montepulicano

July 20, 2020 · 3:19 am

A Sicilian Dinner by the Pool

A Sicilian dinner by the pool

Michele and I visit our friend in NJ every week or so where we enjoy great food and wonderful wine. Since we all miss Italy so much, we decided to plan a meal with the food and wine of some of the regions we have visited.  We started with the food and wine of Sicily.

Michele did most of the cooking except for the arancini from a local shop.

The rice balls, arancini,  were stuffed  with  a ground  meat  ragu  and peas.  We ate them by the pool with some chilled white wine.

Vinny, a friend who is a master hand at the grill prepared the perfectly grilled shrimp dressed with olive oil, garlic and parsley.

We ate the shrimp with bruschetta topped with tomatoes and basil.

 

Michele made Pasta Ericese which we first had at a little trattoria in Erice, Sicily, a number of years ago.  The sauce is a pesto of almonds, tomatoes, basil, garlic and grated pecorino, topped with cubes of fried eggplant.  When we had it in Erice, the cook had also added rounds of fried potatoes, but Michele decided to forego them this time.

 

Moscato Sicilia DOC “Mosca” Barone Sergio made from 100% Moscato Bianco. The soil is of medium texture, mineral and calcareous. The vineyard is 70/80 meters and the system of cultivation is espalier. Harvest takes place the first week of September. The grapes are hand harvested. There is criomaceration for 24 hours followed by a soft pressing. Then cold clarification of the must followed by fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature. The rest is in stainless steel tanks on the lees for 6 months. This is an aromatic wine with hints of peach, sage and white flowers.

 

 

Donna Angelica DOC Sicilia 2018 made from Catarrato, Grillo and Zibibbo Assuli Production area Mazara del Vallo (northwest Sicily). The soil is clay with limestone, organic elements and nitrogen. The vineyard is at 200/250 meters and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. The training system is vertical trellises. Harvest is from the end of August and the end of September depending upon the weather. There is an extremely soft pressing of the grapes with a membrane press, followed by static clarification of the must and fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. The wine spends 8 to 10 months on the lees with batonnage. The wine is in bottle for 3/4 months before release. This is a wine with a fruit bouquet, a touch of white flowers and hints of apricot and white peaches.

 

Our main course was Swordfish with Caper and Fresh Herb Sauce.  The fresh swordfish was lightly poached with wine and aromatic seasonings, then topped with a cool dressing of mint, thyme, lemon and capers.  This is a recipe from “The Heart of Sicily,” by the late Anna Tasca Lanza.

Passito IGT Sicily “L’ECRÙ” 200 Firriato.  Moscato and a small amount of Malmsey from the Tenuta Borgo estate in the Trapani countryside. The soil here is of medium texture; mostly clay and the vineyards have a north-south exposure at 250/400 meters. There are 5,500 vines per hectare and the training is cordon spur pruned/guyot.  The harvest takes place the first week of September and the most mature grapes are hand harvested.  The rest remain on the vines until they reach full maturity. Soft pressing of the grapes and the fermentation takes place at controlled temperature lasts for 4 weeks. The wine is aged in bottle for 4 months before release. This is a very elegant dessert wine with aromas of candied orange peels, dried figs and dates. It has a clean but long finish and wonderful aftertaste.

 

Michele made Biscotti Regina, Sicilian sesame cookies, which were a perfect match with the Passito.

 

The Pool

3 Comments

Filed under Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Uncategorized

October 2, 2017 · 4:43 am

Firriato: Sicilian Wine at its Best

I have a long history with the wines of Firriato from Sicily. When I was the wine director for I Trulli restaurant in NYC, I was introduced to them by one of the wine salespeople. Knowing my taste, he believed that I would like the wines and he was right.

Next, Michele and I went to Sicily where we visited the Firriato estate near Trapani. We were treated to a typical Sicilian lunch paired with their wines and learned to appreciate them even more. Then, a few years ago I attended a lunch at Il Gattopardo Restaurant in NYC where I enjoyed the more current vintages.
Recently, I was asked if I wanted to taste a number of samples from the winery and I accepted gladly.

The winery

Firriato is a family run business; the president is Salvatore Di Gaetano, the CEO is Vinzia Novara Di Gaetano, the COO Is Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, and the Chairman is Irene Di Gaetano Lombardo di Monte Iato.

Firriato is comprised of 6 estates, four of which are near Trapani: Baglio Soria, Borgo Guanini — the largest with over 140 hectares of vineyards, Pianoro Cuddia and the Dagala Borromeo. On the east coast near Mount Etna is the Cavanera estate that has 11 hectares of vines. Off the coast of Trapani are the Egadi Islands. The Calamoni estate is on the island of Favignana.

The Wines

Le Sabbie Dell’Etna Etna Bianco DOC 2016 made from Carricante and Catarrato from the territory of Castiglione di Sicily (Catania) at the Cavanera Estate. The soil is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage. The vineyards are on the northeastern side of the volcano at 720 meters. The soil is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage and there are 4,000 to 4,500 vines per hectare and the vines are cordon royat trained(trellises). Harvest is the second week of October. Fermentation lasts for 15 days. Vinification: soft pressing and fermentation at a controlled temperature. The wine remains for 3 months on the  lees in steel tanks with daily shaking and remains in bottle for two months before release. This is a fruity wine with hints of white peaches and pears.

Favinia “La Muciara” Bianco 2014 IGT Sicily. Made from Grillo, Catarratto and Zibibbo. The grapes were grown on the Island of Favignana off the west coast of Sicily. They are grown at the Tenuta Calamoni estate, which is two meters from the sea. The training system for the vines is alberello and there are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand during the first week in September and the grapes are placed in small baskets. In the winery soft pressing is followed by fermentation for 20 days in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged for 6 months in stainless steel and for 2 more months in bottle before release. The heat during the day and the ocean breeze make for a wine with a mineral character and good acidity. The vineyards are 10 years old.

Ribeca DOC Sicily 2013 made from 100% Perricone from the Pianoro Cuddia Estate in the Trapani countryside. The soil is clayey and the vineyards have a south/southwest exposure and are at 200 meters. The training system is guyot and there are 5,000/6,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are hand picked the third week of September and the first week of October. Fermentation is for 14 days at 26/28 degrees C. in temperature controlled steel tanks in to red wine tradition. The wine is aged for 10/12 months in French durmast barrique. The wine has hints of cherries and blueberries with a touch of prune and juniper.

Le Sabbie Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC 2015 made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from the Cavanera Etna Estate at the Northern side of the Volcano at 700 meters. The soil is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage and the vines are cordon royat trained and there are 4,000 to 4,500 plants per hectare. Gapes are hand picked the 2nd and 3rd weeks in October. Fermentation lasts for 14 days. Vinification is carried out according to tradition. The wine is aged in durmast barriques for 6 months and in bottle for 2 months before release. The wine has hints of black cherry, prune with a touch of licorice.

Cavanera “Rovo delle Coturnie” Etna Rosso DOC 2013 made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from the Cavanera Etna Estate. The soil composition is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage. The vineyards are on the northeastern side of the volcano at 750 meters and there are 3,000 to 4,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand the 2nd and 3rd weeks of October. Fermentation is for 18 days. Vinification in frustum of cone shaped wooden, according to tradition. The wine is aged for 9 months in French barriques and for 6 months in Slovenian durmast. The wine has hints of red fruit, peach a hint of black pepper and good minerality.

Santgostino “Bagio Soria” Terre Siciliane IGT 2012 made from Nero d’Avola and Syrah. The vineyards have a south/south westerly exposure and are at 200 meters. The soil is calcareous-clay and the vines are cordon trained, spur pruned/guyot and there are 5,000/6,000 vines per hectare. Hand harvest the first week of September for the Syrah and the second week of September for the Nero’d Avola.
Traditional vinification in temperature controlled steel tanks.
The wine is aged for 8 months in American Durmast barriques and 6 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of wild berries, cherries and a touch of prune, clove and licorice.

Chiaramonte Terre Siciliane 2015 IGT 100% Nero d’Avola from Tenuta Dagala Borromeo in the Trapani countryside. The vineyards have a south/south-westerly exposure and are at 230 meters. The soil is mid-mixture, mostly clay, vines are cordon trained, spur pruned/guyot and there are 5,000 to 5,500 vines per hectare. Harvest takes place the third week of September. Fermentation lasts for 10 days. Vinification in temperature controlled stainless steel tank according to tradition. The wine is aged for 6 months in American durmast barrriques and in bottle for 3 months before release. The wine has hints of black cherries and blueberries with a touch of black pepper and cloves.

Harmonium Sicily DOC Sicily 2013 100% Nero d’Avola from the Borgo Guarini Estate. This is a “cru” from 3 vineyards: Ferla cru with a north-east exposure, Beccaccia cru with a south exposure and the Lepre cru with a south-east exposure. They are at 300 meters. The soil is calcareous-slime, there are 5,000/5,500 vines per hectare and the vines are cordon trained and spur pruned. Grapes are hand-picked the third week of September. Vinification in temperature controlled steel tanks according to tradition. The wine is aged for 12 months in French and American durmast barriques. This is a well-structured wine with hints of cherry, blueberries, prunes and a hint of pepper and nutmeg.

Passito IGT Sicily “L’ECRÙ” 2008  made from Moscato and a small amount of Malmsey from the Tenuta Borgo estate in the Trapani countryside. The soil here is of medium texture; mostly clay and the vineyards have a north-south exposure at 250/400 meters. There are 5,500 vines per hectare and the training is cordon spur pruned/guyot.
The harvest takes place the first week of September and the most mature grapes are hand harvested. The rest remain on the vines until they reach full maturity. Soft pressing of the grapes and the fermentation at controlled temperature lasts for 4 weeks. The wine is aged in bottle for 4 months before release. This is a very elegant dessert wine with aromas of candied orange peels, dried figs and dates. It has a clean but long finish and wonderful aftertaste.

3 Comments

Filed under Etna Bianco, Etna Rosso, Passito, Sicilian Wine, Sicily

Tagged as

May 9, 2016 · 4:40 am

The Wine Media Guild Sicily Tasting: The White Wines

The Wine Media Guild asked me to host a program about the wines of Sicily. Together with Tom Maresca, another member, we lined up 30 wines for the tasting and lunch. The speakers would be Alessandro Dellascenza of Cru Artisan Wines, a division of Banfi, who would present 7 wines. Somehow, I became the second speaker and was more than happy to do so.

I am often asked where a wine can be bought at retail so in this post I have included the name of the importer/distributer of each wine.

At the tasting and lunch, which took place in April at Felidia Restaurant, we had 9 excellent whites ranging in price from $12 to $41.

The White Wines of SicilyIMG_0218

Grillo “Zirito” 2014 Grillo Terre Siciliane IGT 100% Grillo Feudo Sartanna Cru Artisian Wines-Banfi $12 The vineyards are in Western Sicily; the soil is volcanic of medium texture, chalk and clay. Traditional fermentation, temperature control with partial skin contact. The wine is aged in stainless steel for 6 months. This is a wine with citrus fruit aromas and flavors and a long, well-balanced finish. Grillo means cricket in Italian.IMG_0216

Grillo “Cavallo Delle Fate Sicilia” 2014 DOC 100% Grillo  Tasca d’ Almerita Winebow $20 From the Sant’Anna, Piana Casa Vecchie and San Pietro vineyards at 1,980 feet with a southwest exposure. There are 26 hectares of vineyards and the soil is sand and clay-loam. Training system is guyot, with 1,840 vines per hectare. The vineyards were planted in 2007 and the first vintage was in 2012. The harvest is in September. Fermentation is in stainless steel for 15 days, aging in stainless steel for 4 months.This is a wine with hints of white peach, apricot and pineapple with good acidity.IMG_0224

Grillo Terre Siciliane IGP 2013 100% Grillo, Principi di Spadafora Montcalm $26.99 From the Contrada Virzi Monreale and Palermo areas. The vineyard has a western exposure, at 350 meters with sandy-clay soil. Training system is simple guyot espalier. There are 5,000 plants /hectare and the vineyard is 20 years old. Harvest takes place in mid-September. Fermentation is with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature in cement vats. The wine spends 12 months in the vats and 4 months in bottle before release. This is a fruity aromatic wine with hints of citrus fruit with good acidity and a long finish.

Insolia Terre Siciliane IGT 2014, !00% Grillo Cusumano Tony di Dio Selections $11.99 Zone of production Ficuzza, Piana degli Albanesi (Palermo) The vines are 15 years old, the exposure is southeast and there are 4,500 plants per hectare. Harvest is by hand the first 10 days of September. There is a cold pressing with the skins for about 12 hours, followed by a second soft pressing. There is cold decanting and fermentation at a controlled temperature. The wines remain on the lees in stainless steel tanks for at least 4 months and for a time in the bottle before release. This is a great value!IMG_0229

Caselle Etna Bianco 2013 DOC 100% Carricante, Benanti Tradizione Imports $20 Production area on the eastern side of Mt. Etna and the southern side at 900/100 meters. The soil is sandy, volcanic and rich in minerals. Training system is alberello (free standing bush). There are 6,000/8,000 vines per hectare and the vines are 35 and 40 years old. Late ripening grapes picked during the 3rd week of October. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. Wine ages in tanks for a period of time before being bottled.IMG_0227

Vigna Casalj Alcamo Classico DOC 2014 100% Catarratto Tenuta Rapitala Wildman $17 Vigna Casalj is a 25 acre registered cru in the Alcamo Classico, a high-elevation DOC. It is at 2,000 meters, guyot trained vines in sandy soil. Harvest is at the end of September. Soft pressing and cold settling is followed by fermentation using selected yeasts at a controlled temperature and the fermentation lasts for two weeks. The wine remains on its fine lees until March and is then aged for three months in 50hl French oak barrels. This is a crisp full bodied wine that has aromas of sage and tomato leaf.IMG_0225

Nozza d’Oro Contea di Sclafani DOC 2012 Inzolia 72% & Sauvignon Tasca 28% Tasca d’Almarita Winebow $30 The Insolia is from the 8.4 hectare Barbabietole vineyard (clay and calcareous soil) and the Sauvignon Tasca from the 2.25 hectare Santa Tea, training method is espalier. Vineyard (Sandstone and fine sand) elevation 1,650 to 2,300 with a southwest exposure. Harvest is in August/ September. There is cold soak maceration for 18 hours and alcoholic fermentation is for 15 days. The wine is aged for 5 months in stainless steel and for 8 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apple, peach, melon and jasmine. Nozza d’ Ora in Italian means golden wedding anniversary. It was created by Count Giuseppe Tasca in 1984 and dedicated to his wife Franca.IMG_0226

Cometa 2014 Planeta 100% Fiano Palm Bay $40.99. Production area Menfi from the Gurra vineyard planted in 1998 and the Dispensa vineyard planted in 1996. There are 4,500 vines/hectare. The grapes are destemmed and crushed; the juice clarified by cold setting overnight and then inoculated with selected yeast. It is fermentation at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks for 20 days. The wine is bottled in the second half of February following the year of harvest. This is an elegant, full-bodied wine with a wide range of aromas and flavors. It has hints of pineapple, mandarin, thyme and chamomile with a long finish and very pleasing aftertaste.IMG_0219

Piano Maltese DOC 2014 made from Grillo 45%,Cataratto 45% and Chardonnay10% Tenuta Rapitala Wildman $13. Selected parcels of vines located at 1200 ft., guyot trained on clay soil. The grapes are harvested and vinified separately, the Grillo at the end of August and the Catarratto in the middle of September. The grapes are crushed, destemmed and a cooling of the must and gentle pressing takes place. This is followed by division of the different qualities of the must. Cold settling occurs before a cold fermentation. The wines rest on their lees before being blended and bottled in February following the harvest. The wine has rich fruity aromas with hints of apple, pear and a touch of roasted nuts.

 

6 Comments

Filed under Carricante, Cometa, Grillo, Insolia, Italian White Wine, Italian Wine, Nozza d'Oro, Sicilian Wine, Uncategorized

January 4, 2016 · 7:46 am

Tenuta Gigliotto: Sicilian Wine The Way I Like It

It is very rare that I go to a tasting where all of the wines reflect the terroir and the grapes they are made from. This was the case when I tasted the wines of Tenuta Gigliotto at I Trulli restaurant in NYC last month.

The Gigliotto winery is 9 Km from Piazza Armerina (famous for its Roman mosaics, 360AD) in Sicily.

At the tasting and lunch there was not one wine that was international in style or “made for the American market”, which I appreciated very much.

Elio Savoca

Elio Savoca

Tenuta Gigliotto is a family business managed by Elio Savoca, who hosted the tasting. Elio spoke about the winery and how they now welcome paying guests on their property at their agriturismo.

He told us that for the last 20 years the winery has been under organic management. Organic for them is the result of a natural and spontaneous process and above all a respect for nature. Elio is also very interested in the history of Sicily and the wines are named after persons or places of historical importance. One wine is named for Count Ruggero, later Roger I of Sicily, who is credited not only for driving the Arabs from Piazza Amerina but also from all of Sicily.

Angelo Alescio

Angelo Alescio

The wine maker, Angelo Alescio, spoke about the wine. He said there are 20 hectares of vines and the soil is generally sandy. All the vineyards have a southern exposure and are at 400 meters. There is a strong wind, which comes from the sea 25km away and has a strong influence on the vines. The training system is Guyot.

He said vinification is carried out under inert gas using cross-flow filters for filtering the wine. It is a less invasive and more effective method. They use French oak barrels and chestnut barrels. Angelo made the point of saying that the use of chestnut was the way wine was processed and aged in the past in Sicily because it was readily available.IMG_9400

Santa Chiara Dry Moscato made from 100% Moscato. This is a very interesting wine. On the bouquet and on the palate it has all the slightly sweet fruity flavors of the Moscato grape but the finish and aftertaste is dry so that it is a wine which can go with food.IMG_9403

White Wine IGT Sicily “Venere” 100% Chardonnay. There are 4,800 plants per hectare and the grapes are picked by hand the second half of August. The grapes are softly pressed by using a pneumatic press. The must ferments in steel tanks with the traditional cold method and temperature control system. About 30% of the wine is fermented in wooden barrels. The wine is then aged in the bottle for several months before release.IMG_9404

Rose Wine IGT Sicily “Kanzir” made from 100% Nero d’Avola. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the grapes are hand picked in the second and third weeks of September. Traditional white wine vinification, after the grapes are slightly pressed. The must is fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with the yeast that is on the skins. The wine is aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 3 months in bottle before release. It has nice red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of raspberries and a touch of almonds.IMG_9392

Red Wine DOP Sicily “San Michele” made from 100% Frappato. There are 5,000 vines per hectare and harvest takes place the last week of September. Traditional fermentation at controlled temperature. The wine is aged at least 12 months in stainless steel and barrel. This is very aromatic wine with fresh red berry flavors and aromas and a hint of spice and notes of roses.IMG_9391

Red Wine IGT Sicily “Vossia” made from 100% Nero d’Avola. There are 5,000 vines per ha and the harvest takes place the second and third weeks of September. The wine is fermented and macerated under controlled temperatures for 10 days. Aged in casks for 6 months. This is an aromatic wine with hints of red berries, violets, spice and a touch of almonds.IMG_9396

Red Wine Sicily IGT made from 100% Nero d’Avola this is a more intense version of the wine above.IMG_9388

Red Wine IGT Sicily “Conte Ruggero” 100% Petit Verdot. There are 4.500 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place the second and third weeks in September. Vinification is the same as above. The wine is aged for 12 months in barrel. The wine has hints of raspberries and cherries with a nice finish and pleasant after taste.IMG_9395

Merlot “Campione De Vasca 2014” made from 100% Merlot. This is vinified like the wine above. It was one of the few times which I have tasted merlot that was so true to the grape.IMG_9386 

Patrisano Dessert Wine made from 100% Zibibbo (White Moscato) There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place in November. It is a late harvest and the grapes are picked after they wither on the vines. Traditional wine vinification takes place at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in steel tanks and French oak barrels. It has hints of mature fruits along with honey and a touch of spice with a long finish and very pleasing aftertaste.

 

2 Comments

Filed under Dry Mosacto, Frappato, Gigliotto Winery, Italian Red Wine, Italian White Wine, Italian Wine, Nero d'Avola, Sicilian Wine, Sicily

Tagged as

October 19, 2015 · 4:44 am

A Sicilian Family Winery

Benedetto Alessandro, the oenologist of the Alessandro di Camporeale winery in Sicily, was the speaker at a tasting I attended recently of his company’s wines.

IMG_8823

Benedetto Alessandro

This is a fourth generation family-owned and operated winery located in the small farming town of Camporeale, close to Palermo. The estate is at the foot of a hill overlooking the Mandranove Plain. There are 35 hectares of vineyards at about 400 meters. The climate is mild and the fertile clay and limestone-based soil are ideal for producing a wide variety of different grapes. He made a point of saying that the approach in the vineyard follows the overall values of tradition, experience and knowledge of the land. All vine related activities are carried out by hand, following organic farming principles such as biodiversity to combat parasites and using green manure to promote soil fertility.

The wines of Alessandro di Camporeale IMG_8816

Catarratto “Benedè” DOC Sicily 2014 100% Cataratto. The vines were planted in 1990 and are at 420 to 470 meters. The soil is clay and sand, the training system is guyot and there are 3,500 plants per hectare. Harvesting is by hand starting the 10th day of September. The grapes are destemmed and cooled, then a soft pressing takes place. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a low temperature for 15 days. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. It is aged for 6 months in stainless steel and another 2 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apricot and white peach with a hint of almonds in the aftertaste. $19IMG_8817

Grillo “Vigna di Mandranov” DOC Sicily 2013. 100% Grillo. The vineyard was planted in 2009. It is at 450 meters, the soil is clay, the training system is guyot espalier and there are 4,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand starting in the beginning of September. After destemming, the grapes are cooled and gently pressed in an oxygen free environment. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a low temperature for 15 days. The wine is aged in stainless steel for 6 months and in bottle for 1 to 2 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit with touches of flint and herbs. A very nice example of this type of wine. $29IMG_8818

Nero d’Avola “Donnatá” Sicily DOC 2013 100% Nero di Avola. The soil is rich in clay, limestone and potassium. The vines were planted in 2000. The vineyard is at 380 meters. The soil is clay and sand, training system is spurred cordon espalier and there are 4,400 vines per hectare. Harvest starts by hand, the first week of September. Maceration is for 12 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in stainless steel and a small part in big oak casks. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 months before release. This is an aromatic wine with hints of blackberries and cherries with a very pleasing finish and aftertaste.

Benedetto said that Nero d’Avola was the most important red grape variety in Sicily. $19IMG_8821

Syrah Kaid l IGT Sicily 2011 100% Syrah The soil is clay and chalk with an alkaline reaction. The vines were planted in 1989, the training is spurred cordon espalier and there are 4,400 plants per hectare. The grapes are picked by hand in the morning the first 20 days of September. Maceration is for 12 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 12 months in barriques and tonneaux and 6 months in bottle before release. This is a big wine, alcoholic with hints of cherry and black currants with a lot of vanilla, toasty oak and coconut. One of the wine writers present said that he likes the first 3 wines but this wine was out of balance and much too international in style. Benedetto agreed and said that starting with the next vintage 2012 they are using less barriques and more tonneaux and big oak casks .$25

He also said that Syrah is considered the “most Sicilian of the international grape varieties”.IMG_8822

Kaid “ Vendemmia Tardive” Late Harvest 2014 IGT Sicily 100% Syrah from a 1.5 hectare plot. The vineyard is at 400 meters and the vines were planted in 1989. Fermentation is for about 12 days at a low temperature. The wine is aged in Allier oak barriques for 15 months and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a dessert wine with nice rich forward fruit with hints of cherries, black currants and a touch of chocolate. It has a very pleasing aftertaste and a very long and complex finish. $35

1 Comment

Filed under Alessandro di Camporale, Catarrato, Grillo, Italian Red Wine, Italian White Wine, Italian Wine, Kaid-Syrah & Late Harvest, Nero d'Avola, Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Syrah, Uncategorized

Tagged as

September 27, 2011 · 5:06 am

Bosco Falconeria – Azienda Biologica Simeti -Taylor

 Recently, I heard from Mary Taylor Simeti, who wrote to ask me if I was going to a tasting of Sicilian wines being held in NYC.  Mary writes about Sicilian food, culture and history.  Her books include On Persephone’s Island:  A Sicilian Journal and Pomp and Sustenance: Twenty Five Centuries of Sicilian Food.

 Mary wanted to make sure that I was going to the tasting because she and her husband have a small winery, Bosco Falconeria Azienda Biological Simeti Taylor. The winery is located in the hills overlooking the Gulf of Castellamare about 40 miles west of Palermo and has been in the Simeti family since 1933. In 1989 with Bosco Falconerian as its trademark, the farm obtained official organic certification, one of the first in Sicily to do so.

 The winery produces three wines and the total production is less than 10,000 bottles. Mary hoped that I would like the wines. Not only did I like all three of them, but they were some of the best and most interesting wines at the tasting.

The Wines of Bosco Falconeria

 Falco Perregrino 2010 IGT Sicily, this wine is 100% Cataratto, organically produced, (certified by Codex). The production area is the Contrada  Bosco Falconeria and the altitude is 800 ft. The soil is calcareous and of medium texture. In the vineyard the system of training the vines is vertical trellises and alberello (bush) and there is no irrigation. There are 2,700 vines per hectare, which have an average age of 12 years. The vineyards are treated 2 to 4 times a year with copper-sulphate products and the fertilization is green manure with leguminous and spontaneous vegetation. The harvest is manual and takes place the first half of September.

Mechanical destemming and crushing is done with a destemmer with rollers.  Via email, Mary explained how it works “… it is an aged do it yourself homebrew destemmer with rollers, but it works on the same principle as the fancy industrial one. The grapes go into the funnel on top (my vocabulary is not technical!) at the bottom of which are two ridged rollers that tear the grapes off the stems and give them a light crushing. The grapes and stems drop into a perforated cylinder – in this case horizontal but can be vertical – and the grapes fall through the holes while the rotating paddles, which work like a screw, push the stems out the side. Sort pressing takes place with a pneumatic press. Fermentation takes place in temperature–controlled stainless steel tanks for 25 days.

 The wine is stabilized by refrigeration, filtration is with a plate filter and the clarification is done with bentonite. They use select yeasts certified saccharomyces cervisiae (olivar ogar). There is no sulphur dioxide added. I asked Mary about how long this wine would last without the addition of sulphur dioxide and her answer was “Our first Falco was 2009 and it lasted beautifully, actually it was better a year after bottling and we are treasuring the last 20 odd bottles which we are still drinking with pleasure. The 2010 was bottled in February and we have had no problems with that either.” Production is 1,000 bottles all with corks. She also said that they just started the Falco 2011 macerating on the skins with only spontaneous yeasts.

  Catarratto 2009 IGH Sicily 100% Cataratto organically produced, extra-lucido (certified by Codex).  It is the same as the wine above except the average age of the vines is 8 years and there are 30mg/hl of sulphur dioxide added at pressing and 5mh/hl at bottling. There are 5,500 bottles produced.

 Nero d’Avola 100% Nero d’Avola organically produced (certified by Codex) Same as above except the average age of the vines is 10 years. Fermentation takes place on the skins for 10 to 12 days. The wine is refined in stainless steel for about 5 months. 50mg/hl of sulphur dioxide is added at pressing. 2,000 bottles are produced.

 Unfortunately the wines are not imported into the US at this time, but they are looking for an importer and I hope they will be soon.

2 Comments

Filed under Azienda Biological, Bosco Falconeria, Italian Red Wine, Italian White Wine, Italian Wine, Mary Taylor Simeti, Organic wine, Sicilian Wine