Monthly Archives: March 2025

The Vitiarium Collection from San Felice

San Felice is located  in the heart of the Chianti Classical zone and a few miles from Castel Berardenga and Siena.

I have been drinking and enjoying the wines a San Felice for a many years. Owned by the Grisaldi del Taja family from 1700 to 1968, the estate was acquired by the Allianza Group in the 1970’s, Today it spans about 685 hectares across  Tuscany’s prestigious wine producing  areas: Chianti Classico Montalcino and Bolgheri. The estate is home to the Vitiarium Collection and the Borgo San Felice Relais & Chareau.

Recently, I was introduced to their new line of wines called the Vitiarium Collection. The collection includes Borgo Chianti Classico DOCG, Pugnitello Toscana IGT, In Avane Toscana IGT (a white wine), and La Pieve Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione—each an authentic expression of a land where tradition and innovation meet. These four wines of the Vitiarium line are the result of over twenty years of research and innovation dedicated to rediscovering native grape varieties through the experimental project in the Vitiarium vineyard. These labels share a common purpose: to tell the story of an historic winemaking estate, the very place where, in 1968, Vigorello—the first of the Supertuscans—was introduced to the world. In both 2001 and 2022 San Felice obtained Equalitas — Standard SOPD Sustainable Organization (SO) certification recognizing their commitment to sustainability.

The Vitiarium Collection

In Avane Chardonnay Toscana 2022 made from mostly Chardonnay from San Felice (Castelnuovo Berardenga, Siena).  In Avane, from “Avenal” the Etruscan name of the area, encloses a trace of the ancient culture present in the territory of San Felice. The soil is of medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl, breakdown of alberese and galestro limestones and the training system is spur-pruned cordon. Harvest takes place by hand the first week of September in the early morning hours.  Maceration at a temperature of 8° C. Fermentation predominantly in steel and partly in oak barrels. Bottle aging for a few months before release. The wine has hints of citrus, white flowers, peach, pear, with a note of acacia and a touch of melon. $33

Borgo Chianti Classico 2022 DOCG made from Sangiovese and Pugnitello. The vineyard is located Castlenuovo Berardenga.   Soil is medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of galestro limestones, with a abundant gravel-pebble mix. The training system is cordoned speronato and guyot. Harvest is the third week September to the first week of October. Vinification is in stainless steel for 2 weeks separately for each variety. Aging for approximately 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. The wine has hints of black fruit, blackberries, blueberries, black cherry and plum. $33

Pugnitello Tuscan IGT 2021 made from 100% Pugnitello. Pugnitello is an ancient Tuscan native grape variety whose name means little fist, because of the shape of the clusters.  Following its rediscovery, it has been researched, in collaboration with the universities of Florence and Pisa, in San Felice’s experimental vineyard. The wine is the fruit of 20 years of study and experimentation focused on saving native Tuscan grapes from extinction. The vineyard is located Castlenuovo Berardenga (Siena).  Soil is medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of galestro limestones, with an abundant gravel-pebble mix. The training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the first week of October. There is a 20-25 day fermentation on the skins at 30C, followed by malolactic fermentation. Aging of the wine is in 225-liter French oak barriques for 18 to 20 months and 8 months in the bottle before release. This is a full bodied concentrated wine  with hints of wild fruit preserves of black and red fruit, blackcurrants, cherries, cinnamon, clove,  a touch of tobacco and a hint of spice. This is a wine that will age. $69

The 2021 vintage produced high-quality and healthy grapes

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from the finest company vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro.  The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September.  Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28–30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied wine with hints of violet, black currents and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico.  This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $50

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SIX WINES TO ENJOY

Because I have been unwell, my reporting has been sporadic lately, but I look forward to being back on schedule shortly!  Meanwhile, these are some wines I have recently enjoyed drinking.

Campania Falanghina IGT 2021 De Meo made from 100% Falanghina from Guardia Sanframondi (BN) at 500 meters. The vines were planted in 2005. The exposure is south/east and the soil is clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning.  Manual harvest of select bunches in 15 kg baskets tales place the first week of October.  Cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel for about 3 months and 3 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apple, litchi, dried fruit and thyme with a flowery note. This is an excellent Falanghina $25.00

Chateau d’Estoublon Roseblood Rose 2024 made from 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Cinsault and 5% Rollo.  Soil is clay-limestone red earth, areas of gravel and flint. At 350 – 400m altitude. Direct pressing, cold alcoholic fermentation, vinification and maturation in stainless steel and concrete vats. Aged for several weeks on fine lees. Alcohol 12.5%. This wine offers a mix of strawberry, melon and nectarine flavors with notes of smoke, fresh green herbs and minerals.  Well balanced. $25

Esporāo Reserva  2022 Monte Velho made from Touriga Nacional, Aragon, Syrah and Trincadeira from a careful selection from the various regions of the Alentejo. The soil is granitic/schist and loam/clay. The average age of the vines is 18 years. Mechanical harvesting. After destemming and crushing, alcohol fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature, the grapes are then pressed, then malolactic fermentation. Aging is in oak barrels for  8 months. The wine has hints of wild berries, black plums with slight notes of jam. $12

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from the finest company vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro.  The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September.  Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28– 30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied  wine with hints of violet, black currents and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico and I have been drinking and enjoying the wines of San Felice of a number  of years.  This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $50

Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai DO C Superiore 2015 Pasqua made from 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 10%Rondinella and 10% Oseleta from the Montenegro vineyard. This is a 23 hectare vineyard on a hill at 350 meters between Val d’Illasi and Val di Mezzane, the soil is basalt and calcareous in origin, with optimal mineral content. The grapes are hand-picked with careful selection. Following gentle pressing, fermentation takes place at controlled temperatures between 20-22°C. The next step is aging in French oak 500-liter casks and 225-liter barrels (mainly new or second use) for 18 month. 15% Alcohol. The wine has hints of tobacco, cedar, clove, morello cherry, coffee and balsamic notes. The finish is long with a touch of spice. $55

Amarone Della Valpolicella 2018 Famiglia Pasqua made from 65% Corina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone. The soil is calcareous, clayey and gravely and the vines are about 30 years old. The grapes are harvested by hand in September and laid down to dry in the drying loft for about 3 months where the bunches lose about 25-30% of their weight and substances in the grapes become concreted. After pressing, alcoholic fermentation in steel vats begin, for about 25-30 days at a controlled temperature. Continuous punching down carried out to encourage extraction of color and tannin. The wine is then transferred to French oak barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place and gives softness to the wine. After about 18-20 months of aging, the wine is bottled and aged for another four months. The wine has hints of blueberries, cherries, cocoa, tobacco with spicy notes and a hint of vanilla. There is a persistent aftertaste with a hint of morello cherries. Alcohol 15%. $60

Note: This year marks a century of Pasqua Wines. Founded in 1925, Pasqua has remained a family-owned winery for three generations, dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines that capture the richness of Valpolicella and beyond. I have been enjoying Pasqua wines for the last forty years.

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