Category Archives: Pinot Grigio

March 9, 2026 · 1:35 am

Tasting Collio Pinot Grigio

On our recent visit to Rome I was contacted by Federica Schir, Head of the Collio Consortium’s Press Office who invited Michele and I to a tasting of Pinot Grigio from Collio. I have enjoyed tasting many fine wines with Federica and it’s always a pleasure to see her again.  Federica said that Lavinia Zamaro, Director of the Collio Consorzio, who I had met on a previous trip to the region would also join us.

Lavinia Zamaro and Federica Schir

The tasting was held at my favorite wine bar in Rome, L’Angolo DiVino.

We tasted 6 Pinot Grigios from the 2024 vintage in the Collio region and discussed them.

Collio is a crescent-shaped sub region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the province of Gorizia enclosed between the Judrio and Isonzo Rivers. It is right up against the Slovenian border. The area consists of a total of 7,000 hectares with a strong biodiversity, of which 1,300 hectares are vineyards. The vines are located in the municipalities of Gorizia, Capriva, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo,  Mossa, San Floriano del Collio and Isonzo San Lorenzo.

The soil, known as Ponca, is made of stratified marl and sandstone of Eocene origin.  It crumbles in the hand revealing tiny fossils. The hills of Collio originate from the rising of the sea bottom. The soil makes wines with characteristic minerality and salinity. These are unique wines from a unique soil which are unmistakable for their taste and aroma. Collio is known for its complex and structured white wines.

Pinot Grigio is derived from the bud mutation of Pinot Noir.  It  takes its name from the gray-pink color of the grape skin. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Pinot Grigio is an international variety and the most planted white grape in Collio, but has been losing acreage as it has been replaced slowly by Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla.

The 2024 vintage for Collio Pinot Grigio is of high-quality, resulting  in concentrated, aromatic, and structured wines with higher alcohol levels with notes of ripe pear, melon, and citrus with a distinct mineral, salty, finish.

Collio Pinot Grigio MAGNAS Made from 100% Pinot Grigio planted in 1990 in Cormòns and Murzù area. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,500 vines per hectare. There is manual harvesting during the first 10 days of September. A gentle pressing of the grapes is followed by alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature. Aging is on the lees for about six months in stainless steel tanks. The wine was bottled in April. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Dry on the palate, aromatic, smooth and pleasant, with notes of honey and peach. Soft and long on the finish, with a full character.

Pinot Grigio DOC Collio “Villa Canlungo”  Collavini made from 100% Pinot Grigio from San Floriano del Collio, Gorizia, Cormòns and Mossa. The training system is cordon spur and Guyot and there are 4,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare. Terraced vineyards with southern exposure and “ponca” soils—friable marlstone that retains moisture.  Grapes are hand harvested  in September. There is a short maceration on the skins at a low temperature. Alcoholic fermentation is in temperature controlled  stainless steel vats with natural yeast for about two weeks at a temperature of 14C to 16C. This is an elegant and well balanced wine has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, tangerine, a hint of pear and a touch of apple. Collavini was founded in 1896 and is still family run.

Collio DOC Pinot Grigio Ronco Blanchis made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards in Ronco Blanchis, Mossa and Gorizia. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,830 vines per hectare and the average age of the vines is 15 years. The soil is composed of grey and yellowish eocene marl with a meager  amount of sandstone. Harvest is in the middle of September.  There is white wine vinification with a gentle pressing of the whole bunch. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks. This is an elegant, well-structured wine with hints of citrus fruit, Meyer lemon, peach, a touch of pear and a note of flint.

Collio Pinot Grigio Battistutta made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards. The grapes are hand harvested the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and after a light maceration the grapes are gently pressed. The must obtained is clarified by natural settling.  Alcoholic fermentation is started with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature.  This is a smooth, elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, pear, apple and floral notes.

Pinot Grigio Ronco Scagnet made from 100% Pinot Grigio from the DOC Collio area. Crushing and destemming of the grapes is followed by a soft pressing.  After  24 hours, the coarser lees  are separated out and then fermentation at a controlled temperature of 18C. Aging is for about 6 months on the fermented lees without racking. The wine has hints of golden delicious apple, melon, citrus fruit and pear.

Coldigrotta Pinot Grigio Ramato (coppery) made from 100% Pinot Grigio located in Farra d’Isonzo (Gorizia). The soil is sandstone of oceanic origin and the training system is espalier guyot. The average age of the vines is 30  years. Manual harvest takes place the first and third week of September. Fermentation with selected yeasts takes place at 18-20C and lasts for 12 days. The wine is certified organic. This  is a copper-hued “orange” wine, dry, complex and well- structured  with hints of cantaloupe melon, quince and cherry wood.

After we tasted the wines, Lavinia told us about an upcoming event called “Collio Evolution 2026: Beyond the Variety—From Soil to Glass: The Identity-driven Essence of Pinot Grigio.” This is the second edition of the Collio Evolution and it returns to Cormons on October 25th to 26. The event will include a technical tasting and walk-around tasting for the press, trade professionals, and opinion leaders.

For more information contact: Presso Office of Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio. Federica Schir PR + 39 389 9425510

info@federicaschir-pr.com-federica@federicaschir-pr.com

 

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May 23, 2024 · 2:10 am

The Legacy of Mario Schiopetto

The wines of the legendary producer Mario Schiopetto have been a special favorite of mine since Michele and I visited Friuli in the 1980’s.  So I was very happy when I was invited to a tasting of the wines by their distributor, Nunzio Castaldo of Panebianco Wines.

The speaker was Alessandro Rotolo, representing the Rotolo Family who now manage the Mario Schiopetto legacy. The estate passed into the hands of the Rotolo family in April of 2014.

The Mario Schiopetto winery is located in Captiva del Friuli in the province of Gorizia. The DOC is Collio. They also have vineyards in the Colli Orientali in the Province of Udine.

Alessandro said it all began in 1965 when Mario produced his Tocai, the first modern white wine of Friuli, and brought international recognition to the region. In the 1970’s, he travelled across Europe with noted Italian wine and food writer, Luigi Veronelli, and even visited California with other prominent  Italian producers.

Ponca, the typical Friuli terrain composed mainly of clay and limestone, is the unique terroir that defines Schiopotto wines.  Alessandro said that all the wines are vinified and aged in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation does not take place

Friulano, formerly known as Tocai,  is indigenous to Friuli. Alessandro said the name was changed from Tocai to Friulano (a much harder name to pronounce) after a long EU dispute with Hungary.  Today it is the most popular white wine in Friuli and if you ask for a glass of white wine they will give you Friulano.

The Wines:

Collio DOC Friulano 2021 Magnum made from 100% Tocai Friulano first produced in 1965.  The soil is mainly clay and limestone and the training system is guyot and double overturn. Manual harvest is the last week of August and the first week of September. Fermentation is for 10/12 days in steel tanks at a controlled temperature.There is an additional pied de cuvee at the start of fermentation. The wine is aged in steel tanks for 8 months and a minimum of 8 months in bottle before release. This is a complex wine with hints of pear, apricot, wildflowers,  a touch of grapefruit and a note of almond. Note:  This rare magnum came from Alessandro’s personal cellar. He asked that we taste the wine and then taste it again later to see how it evolved in the glass. $ 30

Collio Friulano 2018 Made from 100% Friulano (Tocai). This is a complex wine with hints of pear, apricot, citrus fruit and a hint of almonds and touch of flint.

Alessandro then spoke about Pinot Grigio.  The vines ares grown in medium marly soil and produce small bunches with round grey berries.  Like Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio  derives from the bud mutation of Pinot Noir.

All of the wines are made from 100% Pinot Grigio and are Collio DOC  The training system is guyot and the grapes are hand picked the second and third weeks of September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and the a brief period of decantation in the total absence of sulphur dioxide. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 10/12 days. The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks for 8 months and a minimum of 5 months in bottle before release.

Collio Pinot Grigio 2022.  Flavors of  banana, passion fruit, lemon, peaches, and citrus fruit $28.

Next we tasted the following older vintages of this wine.  As the wines got older, the flavors and aromas became much deeper and more pronounced with more honeysuckle and tropical fruits.  None of the wines showed any sign of age.  The 1999, a 25 year wineThe, was more than amazing.

Collio Pinot Grigio 2018 $28

Collio Pinot Grigio 2015 $49

Collio Pinot Grigio 1999. $?

After tasting the wines I was very happy to see that the Rotolo family have been true to the legacy of Mario Schiopetto.

Schiopetto also produces another line with the label which was first used by Mario Schiopetto back in 1965, known as Del Pompiere “to the fireman.” These wines were not included in the tasting.  The historic label was introduced with the 2019 vintage.  Mario’s family owned Osteria al Pompieri, and at one time, he was a fireman and truck driver and he used his fire truck to deliver his wines.

For more information on the wines and where to by them contact

Panebianco Wine. (212) 685-7560. 1140 Broadway NY, NY

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December 4, 2023 · 4:36 am

Briganti Winery: Wine, Bandits and Baseball

Riccardo Gabriele of PR Communicare Vino, an Italian PR agency, represents some of the top Italian wineries.  He asked me if I would like to meet with one of his new Italian  producers for lunch in NYC, Mike Costanzo of Briganti Wines.  Mike is an American and has a winery in Abruzzo.  What Riccardo did not mention was that Mike was a former MLB third baseman and played for the Cincinnati Reds. I have met a lot of winery owners over the years from all over the world, but Mike’s association with baseball was a first.

We met at Fresca by Scotto for lunch with Mike and his girlfriend Lauren.

Mike is very personable and charming and we hit it off right away. We talked mostly about wine and food and a little about baseball.

Mike said  Briganti is a brand that emerged from the well-respected Risogna Vini, an agricultural company located in Orsogna, Chieti, that has been producing high quality wines in the Abruzzo Region since 2017.

The Abruzzo Region of Italy, located to the east of Rome, has everything going for it. There are beautiful national parks, a long coastline on the Adriatic, the rugged snowcapped Apennine Mountains, and little medieval towns perched precariously on hill tops. Abruzzo is situated between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella massif. It is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy with three national parks and more than ten national and regional natural reserves.  Abruzzo geographically is more central than southern Italy, but due to its connection with the old Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, it is considered part of the South. Most vineyards are in hilly areas, of which 75% are in the province of Chieti.

“Ninco Nanco” a Briganti

Mike said the name Briganti pays homage to the region’s past, as Abruzzo is famous for being the birthplace of the brigandage movement in Italy. During the decade between 1860 and 1870 following Italy’s unification, the Briganti d’Abruzzo experienced its greatest development.  Unification had the immediate effect of creating a huge increase in taxes that generated hunger, famine and widespread poverty. In response to a series of injustices, appropriations and violations, local people formed gangs to rebel against what was happening and fight for their rights. The gangs became roving bands that were known as brigantine.

Mike honors the memory of these brigantini with the names and pictures on the labels of the wine.

Terre di Chieti IGP “Mecola” made from 100% made from 100% Pecorino. There are 1,600 plants per hectare. The training system is pergola and guyot (4,000 vines per hectare for the double guyot). Harvest takes place in October. Carefully selected grapes are destemmed then cry-maceration of the crushed grapes takes place for extraction of color and flavor. This is followed by a soft pressing of the grapes and temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 30 days. The wine has hints of lemon blossom, peach a hint of jasmine, floral notes of acacia and a slight mineral edge.

Mike said Pecorino is one of Italy’s indigenous grape varieties cultivated in the hills of Abruzzo. It is known for its refreshing acidity, floral aromas, stone fruits, tropical fruit flavors and minerality.  Mike said that the wine is named for Mecola, an Abruzzese ancestor who proudly defended the freedoms of the farmers of Abruzzo in the 1860s during the unification of Italy.

Terre Di Chieti IGP Pinot Grigio “Filomena D’Orazio” made from 100% Pinot Grigio. There are 4,000 wines per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is at the end of August. Carefully selected grapes are soft pressed and fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel for 10/15 days.  The wine remains in stainless steel until it is bottled. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, chestnut, a touch of honey and a note of hazelnuts.

Mike said that his winemaking philosophy reflects the passion of those who fought against oppression and sought refuge in cultivating the land.  This wine celebrates Filomena D’Orazio, who represents the strength and courage of her time.  This is their signature Pinot Grigio.

Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo DOC “Ciuccolo” this rosé is made from 100%  Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. There are 1,400 vines per hectare and they are pergola trained. Harvest is in the first 10 days of October. The grapes are crushed with maceration on the skins for 2/4. Then a soft pressing followed by a cold soak clarification. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature for 10/12 days. The wine remains in stainless steel until it is ready to bottle. The wine has hints of strawberries, pomegranate, and cherry and it is medium bodied with crisp acidity.

Mike said Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a hearty, robust rosé, with rich color and fresh fruit flavors. It has stood the test of time. This wine is named in honor of the brigand known as “Ciuccolo” who fought for the rights of his fellow citizens during the unification of Italy in the 1860’s. His legend lives on and is timeless.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Ninco Nanco” made from 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. There are 1,600 vines per hectare and the training system is pergola and guyot. The grapes are hard harvested in October. At the winery the grapes are destemmed, crushed and transferred to fermentation tanks. There is daily pumping over for iteration of color and tannins. After fermentation is done the wine goes into concrete tanks and malolactic fermentation is completed in 7/10 days. The wine remains in concrete until it is ready to bottle. The wine has hints of black cherry, raspberry, red plum, hint of tobacco and a touch of spice.

Mike said that this wine is in named honor of Ninco Nanco, a dedicated patriot of Italy’s independence and a believer in social justice, who represents the power and strength of the red wines from Abruzzo. Montepulciano is rich and bold with natural acidity, ripe red/black fruits, and robust herbal and spicy notes.

The wine was a perfect combination with the pork and red peppers we had for lunch.

After tasting the wines I asked Mike what the retail price would be, and he said between $16 and $18 a bottle. These wines are a fantastic value for the money.

Mike is looking for a distributor in the NY and his wines are available in other parts of the US.

As a lifelong baseball fan, I asked Mike about his career in the Major Leagues.  We talked a lot about it and Mike said that one of the highlights of his career was at Yankee Stadium where he got his first major hit.  Derek Jeter, the great Yankee shortstop, retrieved the ball and gave it to him. He will never forget that moment and meeting Jeter.

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February 14, 2022 · 3:54 am

The Wines of Albino Armani

I was first introduced to the wines of Albino Armani at a dinner several years.  The dinner was hosted by the very interesting and knowledge Egle Capilupi, wife of Albino Armani.  For the first time, I tasted wines from the Casetta grape, known in the local dialect as Foja Tonda (round leaf grape), an ancient variety cultivated in Valdadige, between the Veneto and Trentino.  Until the 1980’s, the variety was on its way to extinction until it was rediscovered by Albino Armani. I have enjoyed all of their wines ever since.

Recently, Susannah Gold, a well respected wine professional, organized a Webinar event with the wines of Albino Armani. It was called Albino Armani Valentine’s Day Webinar. The speaker was Albano Armani himself and I was happy to take part. 

The family has been farming in this area since 1607.  They have 5 wine cellars in 3 different regions in Northeastern Italy in what is known as the “Trivento”:  Friuli, Veneto and Trentino, all overseen by Albino, his wife Egle and their son Federico.

While they produce many excellent wines, Pinot Grigio has always been a grape of great interest to Albino who is a Pinot Grigio specialist. He feels that the “Trivento” is the best place to grow Pinot Grigio because of the climate and the soil. They do not use artificial pesticides or chemicals. Their Pinot Grigio is now part of a project on indigenous yeast undertaken with a local research institute where only the best strains are selected, tested and used. The indigenous yeasts which have long thrived in the vineyard’s climate conditions, continue to produce wines that embody the flavor profile of the territory.  Albino feels that because this area is so close to the Alps, climate change has not been a problem. In his Pinot Grigio Albino likes to keep the acidity higher than the PH. Since 2016 Albino has been Chairman of the Consorzio Delle Venezie DOC so his name is linked with Pinot Grigio in more ways than one.

IMG_6741Prosecco Rosé DOC Extra Dry Millesimo NV made from 90% Glera and 10% Pinot Noir. The production area is Alta Grave Friulana and the training system is Guyot. When the cuveé is ready a long second fermentation takes place in pressure tanks ( Charmat method) for at least 60 days in order to obtain a more refined perlage and complex aromas from the Pinot Noir. This is a fruit forward wine with hints of lilacs, strawberry and raspberry. $16

IMG_6742Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave DOC 2020 The soil composition is loose and well aired and composed of typical calcareous white river stones dragged down by the flooding of the alpine brooks. The training system is Guyot. Fermentation and maturation is in stainless steel tanks in contact with the grapes’ own yeasts until the wine is bottled. The wine has hints of citrus, pears, apples and a touch of almonds in the aftertaste with good minerality. $13

IMG_6743Pinot Grigio “Colle Ara” Valdadige Terradeiforti DOC 2020 made from 100% Pinot Grigio from selected grapes cultivated on ancient  terraces that are perfectly exposed to the late afternoon sun in the southern part of Valdadige in the Veneto. The vineyards are at 230 meters and are in the National Park of Messina. The soil is rich in glacier debris and is mainly calcareous. The training system is guyot. The grapes are soft pressed and cold maceration takes place with the skins for one night.  Maturation in contact with the grapes’ yeasts in stainless steel tanks and partially in wood until the wine is bottled. Albino Armani said, “On the nose the wine offers fruity notes with scents of pomegranate and peach. On the palate it is smooth and persistent, with a pleasant sapidity which is typical of the wines springing from the valley.” The pink Pinot Grigio grapes are cold macerated with the skins, giving the wine a good structure and a sophisticated ‘gold rose color’ known as Ramato. He also explained that the juice of the Pinot Nero grape is white but the skins are pink and his grandfather sold the wine as a Rosé. The wine has hints of yellow fruit, peach and pomegranate with nice minerality and good acidity.  $22

IMG_6744Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Classico Superiore 2018 made from Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella from high hills in the Valpolicella Classico production area at 300/500 meters.  The soil is calcareous deposits on volcanic rock. The training system is traditional pergola Veronese on stone wall terraces, called marogne in local dialect. The fresh Valpolicella wine is poured over the Amazon pomace that is still full of un-fermented sugars and aromatic compounds that start a second fermentation. Then punching down the cap takes place and also some delestage until the complete depletion of the sugar content making the new wine rich and sweet in structure with sweet tannins. The wine is aged in oak barrels. The wine has hints of cherry and other red fruits with a touch of chocolate and a note of coffee. $20

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November 1, 2018 · 3:01 am

Pinot Grigio from the Triveneto Vineyard

The Consorzio Delle Venezie DOC Pinot Grigio has united for the first time two regions, Friuli –Venezia Giulia and the Veneto, along with one autonomous province Trentino, to promote Pinot Grigio from these areas in NYC and around the United States.

I attended the event at the Italian Trade Commission offices.

Albino Armani the President of the Consorzio was the speaker. He said “The United States represents our main market which reaches around 37% of the total of our export, followed by the UK (27%) and Germany (10%). “

Albino Armani

He continued, “The new Della Venezie DOC was created in 2017 as a result of the history and the culture of generations who have built day by day the great ‘Triveneto Vineyard.’  It came from the need for producers to manage, protect and promote the complex and versatile production of Pinot Grigio, one of the most representative grapes of the supra-regional area.”

The new delle Venezie appellation is the largest Pinot Grigio area in the world and 85% of the Italian Pinot Grigio comes from here.

The Region goes from the Alps, and Lake Garda right to the Venice lagoon, the Adriatic Sea and the Collio hills. This is a great diversity of extraordinary terroirs.

Beginning with the 2017 harvest the entire Pinot Grigio production from the administrative territories of Trentino, the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia has been certified as DOC.

The whole area is referred to as the Triveneto Vineyard. 

The Delle Venezie DOC wines are: Pinot Grigio also frizzante

Pnot Grigio Spumante (V.S. and V.S.O. categories)

Bianco

Pinot Grigio Grapes

Pinot Grigio is a complex and versatile grape variety found in the Venetian area in the 1800’s.

Today Pinot Grigio is the main exported grape variety in Italy and fourth most cultivated.

There were 72 Pinot Grigios at the tasting and here  are four examples. The wines are very well priced — all under $20.

The Wines

Kris Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC 2017 the grapes for this wine come from the appellation’s three permitted regions. The soil is clay, silty-loam and gravel. The exposure is southwestern, elevation of 330 to 1,320 feet and there are 2,600 to 3,600 vines per hectare. Harvest takes place in September. The wine has citrus flavors and aromas with hints of tangerine and a touch of apricots and almonds.

Ca di Altre Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC 2017– the north-east facing vineyards are located in the Colli Berici hills. The soil is calcareous and of volcanic origin, the training system in guyot. The grapes were harvested, de-stemmed and crushed. Maceration on the skins for 4 hours before the grapes are gently pressed. Cool fermentation took place at 15 to 16 degrees C in order to retain fruit flavor. The wine does not see any wood in order to preserve the grape’s varietal character. This is a well balanced medium bodied wine with citrus aromas and flavors and floral notes.

Seiterre Pinot Grigio delle Venezie “Maso Bianco” DOC 2017 Selected grapes harvested by hand and fermented at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on its own yeast in stainless and is bottled in the spring. This is a wine with ripe fruit and hints of peach, melon and a touch of spice.

Monteci Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC 2017 There is a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks. The wine is bottled four months after the harvest. The wine is fruity with hints of peach and citrus fruit with good acidity.

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December 11, 2017 · 4:40 am

Dinner with Massimo Bottura on Ellis Island

Massimo Bottura is the chef owner of the Michelin 3-starred Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy. The restaurant was voted the #1 spot on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list in 2016, and this year was named #2.

He was in New York recently to prepare a meal to benefit God’s Love We Deliver featuring some of his signature dishes which were matched with wines by master wine maker Roberto Cipresso.

Roberto Cipresso and Natalie Oliveros

Michele and I were fortunate enough to be invited to this event by Natalie Oliveros, owner of La Fiorita Winery in Tuscany.

The event was held at Ellis Island. About 100 guests boarded the ferry at Battery Park and cruised past the Statue of Liberty to the museum where the event was held.

Mike De Simone. Gianna and Chazz Palminteri and Charles Scicolone

Actor Chazz Palmentieri was the host and entertained us with charming stories of his life and career.

Bottura also spoke about his approach to cooking.

We can’t do any better to describe the spectacular dishes that were served that night than to quote Bottura’s own poetic descriptions which follow along with the wines that accompanied them.

Baccala Mare Nostrum

An Emilian chef dreams of the Mediterranean Sea in the form of a baccala filet floating in a verdant broth of Vesuvian tomatoes and green olives infused with Sorrento lemons, wild oregano and extra virgin olive oil. 

Falaghina Del Sannino 2016 DOC Lorenzo Nifo Sarrapochiello made from 100% Falaghina made from organic grapes. The soil is clay and calcareous marl, The vines are 10 to 15 years old, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the training system is espalier, guyot. Harvest is by hand the third week of September. The grapes are crushed and then fermented for 18 to 20 days, followed by 2 months in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of pear and pineapple with a touch of spice

Polenta and Rice in Praise of a Pizza

This is not a pizza. When the northern Italian Vialone Nano rice and polenta tradition encounter the southern Italian flavors of tomato, anchovy and oregano even a serious risotto can become sunny. The rice is simmered in buffalo mozzarella milk, the polenta is crisped in the oven like pizza crust and the classic pizza toppings are hidden from view.

Pinot Grigio 2016 IGT 100% from vineyards in the Dolomiti  Casata Monfort made from 100% Pinot Grigio. The vineyard is at 300 meters, sandy soil and the training system is pergola trentina. Grapes are pressed in a completely sealed environment and then the wine making process takes place. Fermentation at a controlled temperature with selected yeast strains. The wine was pile yellow with copper highlights. This is a distinctive fruity wine with hints of ripe pear.

The Crunchy Part of Lasagne

Chef Bottura mischievously re-invents the classic Italian recipe while remaining faithful to his childhood memory of stealing he burned corners from his grandmother Ancella’s labor of love. A sheet of crunchy tri-color pasta balances on a hand chopped meat ragu and airy béchamel like a bird about to take flight.

Beautiful, Psychedelic, Spin-Painted Veal, Not Flame Grilled

A tribute to English artist Damien Hirst’s spin-painted canvases, this beef filet takes on the Tuscan tradition of grilled meat without lighting a flame. The meat is marinated in milk as if it were veal, brushed with vegetable charcoal for a fax-grill effect then cooked at a low temperature to preserve essential proteins. It is dressed with creamy potatoes, puree of orange and yellow peppers, a red beet reduction and extra old Villa Manodori Artigianale balsamic vinegar from Modena.

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2006 DOCG La Fiorita made from 100% Sangiovese from the 3.1 hectare Pian Bossolino vineyards at 350 meters. The exposure is south east, training system is spurred cordon and there are 7,000 plants per hectare and the soil is galestro. Harvest is at the beginning of October. Fermentation is Slavonian oak casks for 10 days with selected yeasts. During maceration pumping over and delestage takes place. Type and capacity of aging casks: 12 months in new and second passage French oak; 12 months is Slavonian oak of 80Hl. Aging time: 24 months in wood, 6 months in steel and 30 months in bottle before release. This is a complex wine with hints of red fruit, spice, balsam and a touch of tobacco and chocolate.

Since 2011 the winery has been owned by Natalie Oliveros. Natalie was sitting at the same table as Michele and I. I had met her when I was the wine director of i-Trulli and was the first one to buy her wines.

Caesar Salad in Bloom

The evergreen and stoic Caesar softens into an ornamental garden of late summer fragrances and colors. Chrysantheum petals, elderflower vinegar, dried cherries, and chamomile honey dressings reminds us of nature’s bounty as we safeguard our memories for the long winter to come.

Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart

This dessert calls attention the poetry of imperfection. Lemon zabaglione, verbena sorbet and fragmented pie crust meet candied bergamot, savory capers, dried oregano and hop pepper oil in praise of southern Italy, a place that is broken but never without emotion.

Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Natural Grand Cuvée Del Fondator, Motus Vital Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut Natural- Millesimato 2015 Rive San Pietro Barbozza Bortolomiol made from 100% Glera. Elvira, Maria Elena, Giuliana and Luisa Bortolomio run the winery. This wine was created to honor Giuliano Bortolomio the founder of the winery in the 1940’s and the first to produce a Prosecco brut.  Training system is capuccina modificata. Harvest is at the middle of September. There is a gentle pressing after the skins have been removed. Fermentation at a controlled temperature with selected yeasts. The sparkling wine method used is the Martinotti-Charmat. The wine is left on the lee for ten months. Residual sugar 0 g/l: dosage zero. This is complex and dry Prosecco with nice white fruit and a perfect way to end this wonderful evening.

 

 

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August 29, 2016 · 5:05 am

12 Wines $20 and Under for All Seasons

 

There are some wines that I like to drink all year round. They go with the foods I like to eat and I know I can turn to them at any time. I consider them wines for all seasons. Remember that you don’t have to spend a lot of money to drink well.

Prosecco “Rustico” Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG Nino Franco. 100% Glera (traditionally called Prosecco) from classic production area hillside vineyards situated at medium to high altitude. Pressing, destemming, cooling of the must and fermentation takes place in steel tanks at controlled temperature. Second fermentation is in “cuvee close” (Charmat method). $1IMG_9987

Falanghina Beneventano 2015 DOC 100% Falanghina. The vineyard is the Torre Cuso, the best location for Falanghina. Donnachiara. The soil is volcanic, chalky clay, the vines are 16 years old, the training system is guyot and there are 2,500 vines per hectare. The grapes are not destemmed or crushed before pressing. Cold fermentation is in stainless steel and there is extended maceration. This is a crisp white wine with citrus fruit aromas and flavors nice acidity and good minerality. $18IMG_0118

Pallagrello Bianco “Caiati” 2014 100% Pallagrello Bianco from a 2.13-hectare vineyard at 280 meters, soil is volcanic with minerals. Alois The training system is guyot, there are 4,800 plants per hectare and the harvest is in the middle of September. Fermentation takes place on the lees for 30 days. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in the bottle for 4 months before release. It has hints of almonds, citrus fruit, melon and grapefruit with a long finish and pleasing aftertaste. $20IMG_1091

Côtes-du-Rhone Samorëns Blanc 2015 made from Clairette and Grenache. Ferraton Père & Flis  The grapes are picked at the peak of ripeness and quickly chilled upon arrival at the winery via a chill tunnel. After pressing, the must is cold-settled for 48 hours. Vinification in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks where many lots will under go malolactic fermentation. The wine is then blended and bottled without the use of oak. It has fresh citrus aromas and flavors with hints of white peach and good acidity. $15IMG_1094

Pinot Grigio 2015 Alto Adige DOC Peter Zimmer. Made from a selection of grapes from the best vineyards of the valley floor and the steep slopes nearby. The soil here is stony, sandy and extremely chalky. The low yields per hectare and this particular terroir combines for a very particular Pinot Grigio.  The grapes are gently pressed, then clarified through the natural settling of sediment. Alcoholic fermentation is carried out with pure strains of yeast in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Malolactic fermentation does not occur. The wine remains on the lees for several months before it is bottled. It has more depth than most Pinot Grigio, with ripe fresh fruit, a touch of pear, and a hint of spice, good mineral character and fresh acidity. $16IMG_0912

Gewürztraminer Alto Adige DOC 2014 Elena Walch made from 100% Gewurztraminer from small vineyards around the villages if Tramin and Caldero. After harvest, the grapes are crushed and pressed. The fresh must is clarified at low temperatures then gently fermented at a controlled temperature of 20°C in stainless steel tanks. The wine matures in stainless steel tanks for several months on its fine lees. The wine has hints of white flowers and spice with a nice long finish. $20

Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rose 2015 IGP Pays d’OC  Chapoutier made from 55% Grenache and 45% Syrah. The estate was purchased by Michel Chapoutier in 1999 and is located in one of the best parts of the Languedoc called the Cotes du Roussillon. The grapes are carefully vinified at low even temperatures. The juice is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and aged in the same tanks. After a short maceration on the skins, the delicate pink hue is attained and the wine is racked and vinified. The wine is then carefully blended prior to bottling. $15IMG_1075

Bordeaux Rose 2015 made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Chateau de Lardiley. The soil is clay and limestone, organic agriculture and located in the heart of the Entre-Deux-Mers area in the village of Saint-Pierre-de Bat. The estate is situated midslope along the Garonne River. This is a ripe, red fruit dominated wine with hints of strawberries and raspberries. $15IMG_1092

Az. Agr. Apicella Colli di Salerno Piedirosso IGT 2014, made from 85% Piedirosso from ungrafted vines and 15% other red grapes. There are 3,000 vines per hectare and the training system is mostly pergola. Harvest takes place the third week of October. The stalks are removed and the grapes are pressed. Temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 10 to 12 days. Piedirosso is used mostly as a blending grape.  (It is one of the grapes in the blend for Lacryma Chrisit del Vesuvio Rosso.) It is difficult to find wine made from 100% Piedirosso but worth the effort.
The wine has fresh red fruit flavors and aromas with hints of black pepper and spice a long finish and nice after taste. The wine should be drunk young. $16IMG_0914

Schiava Alto Adige DOC 2015 made from 100% Schiava from high side vineyards above Lake Caldaro at 1,312 ft. Elena Walch The soil is limestone and dandy clay. There is temperature-controlled fermentation at 27°C in stainless steel tanks for 7 days of skin contact. Malolactic fermentation and maturation take place in traditional 8,000-liter Slovenian oak casks. This is a fruity red wine with hints of cherry and a nice bitter almond touch on the finish. $16IMG_1093

Cahors Malbec Prestige 2011 AOP Cahors Domaine du Théron 100% Malbec. Family owned and operated by Pelvillain Freres. The domaine was established in 1973 and is situated in the village of Prayssac in the valley of Lot. The soil is limestone and clay with cover grass planted between the rows. Grapes are harvested in the early morning, destemmed and lightly crushed. Maceration and fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. After the wines are racked to different stainless steel tanks where malolactic fermentation is completed. The wines are aged in barriques for about 12 months, 1/3 of which is new wood. The best barrels are selected and blended into the Cuvée Prestige which is the top of the line and aged another year in bottle before release. This is a big dark wine with hints of spice and chocolate and a touch of blueberries with a smooth yet powerful finish. $18

Moscato d”Asti “Cascinetta” DOCG –NV 100% Moscato d”Asti, Vietti. Grapes are selected from vineyards in Castiglione Tinella. There are 4,500 plants per hectare and they are about 40 years old. The grapes are crushed, pressed and naturally clarified. Must is stored, without sulfite, at low temperature in order to naturally prevent fermentation. Before bottling, yeast is added and the temperature is increased. Alcoholic fermentation is in stainless steel autoclave to preserve natural CO2 from the fermentation. The fermentation is stopped at 5.5% alcohol by again reducing the temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place and preserves acidity, varietal fruit character and freshness. The wine is held in stainless steel tanks before bottling. The wine is delicately sweet, slightly sparkling, frizzante with hints of white peaches, apricots and ginger. $16

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August 18, 2014 · 5:04 am

The Wines of Lis Neris

After judging the Pinot Grigio Challenge in Cormons, in Friuli, I visited the Lis Neris winery in San Lorenzo about 20 minutes away. The winery is in the Isonzo sub zone close to the Slovenian border.

Alvaro

Alvaro

The owner Alvaro Pecorari who began by speaking about the winery greeted me. Alvaro said that it is a family winery and the family controls all of the production process. There are 70 hectares of vineyards planted between the Slovenian border to the north and the right bank of the Isonzo River to the south. Wines are produced exclusively with grapes from their own vineyards. They have introduced biological treatments against vine pests and avoid the use of chemical weed killers. The winery is energy autonomous, with solar panels, which collect and transforms solar power.

He feels that his wines are the best expression of the terrior

The Wines of Lis Neris– They have different lines of wine Traditional, Selezioni and Riserva.IMG_5798

Pinot Grigio 2013 100 % Pinot Grigio this is from the Traditional line where the grapes are from the younger vineyards. The training system is guyot and there are 5,200 to 5,600 vines per hectare. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel takes at a controlled temperature. Maturation is on the fine less in the same tanks for 8 months with frequent stirring of the lees. The wine remains in the bottle a short time before release. This is a fresh fruity wine with aromas and flavors of critics’ fruit, hints of apple and good acidity. I also had this wine with food at one of the best restaurants in the area La Subida and it is an excellent food wine. IMG_5801

Gris 2010 100% Pinot Grigio This is from the” Selezioni line where the wines take the name of the vineyard. The soil is calcareous, alluvial on a broad shelf at 60 meters above sea level. The vines are 25 years old. The training system is guyot and there are 5,200 vines per hectare and the harvest is in October. Fermentation takes place in 500 liter French oak barrels (tonneaux), at a controlled temperature. Alvero said that tonneaux gives the wine aromatic breath without modifying the intrinsic character of the wine. Maceration is on the lees in the same barrels for 10 to11 months with frequent lees souring? The wine is aged in bottle for 12 months before release. Alvero said the wine would last for 5 to 10 years. This was a more intense Pinot Grigio and he said that it was an international style wine reflection the more modern wines of today. That is why I believe he calls it “Gris”IMG_5800

Confini 2010 Venezia- Gulia IGT made from 40% Gewürztraminer, 40 %Pinot Grigio and 20% Riesling from 25 year old vines. This is from the Riserva line, the grapes come from the older vineyards. Fermentation takes place in 500 liter French oak barrels and maceration is on the fine lees in the same barrels for 11 months with frequent bàtonnage. The wine is aged another 12 months in bottle before release. He said that the Pinot Grigio constitutes the skeleton of the wine, giving it structure a full bodied frame, softness and warmness. Traminer is important for aromas and perfumes and Riesling for the right acidity and complexity of taste. Only Pinot Grigio and Traminer are late harvested and matured in wood.IMG_5821

Tal Luc 2010 made from 95% Verduzzo and 5% Riesling. The vines are 10 years old, the training system is guyot and there are 5,200 vines per hectare. After the harvest the grapes are dried for 120 days in an air-conditioned environment. Long fermentation takes place in new 225 liter French oak barrels. The wine remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. Alvero said that the wine could age for 15 years. It is in the Riserva line” This is an excellent dessert wine and I really enjoyed tasting it. I also had the pleasure of drinking the=is wine at restaurant La Subida the night before.

 

 

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June 30, 2014 · 6:03 am

2014 International Pinot Grigio Challenge

The 2014 International Pinot Grigio Challenge was held in Corno Di Rosazzo, near Udine in the Northeastern Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia in Italy. I like the food and the wines of the region and have always enjoyed its Pinot Grigio, so I was delighted to be invited to be one of the judges.IMG_5741

The event took place over three days. The first day there was a round table discussion on Pinot Grigio: “Commercial Challenge on the World Market.” There were a number of speakers, including myself, and I found the conversation to be most interesting

Some of the topics discussed included the reasons for the popularity of Pinot Grigio, how to improve its image, Pinot Grigo in different countries and the other names for Pinot Grigio

Pinot Grigio came to Italy after the phylloxera plague in Europe in the late 19th Century. It most likely originated in Burgundy and is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir. It is grown mostly in northeastern Italy. The best examples in my opinion come from Friuli Venezia Giulia and Trentino Alto Adige

Pinot Grigio is not a white grape as can be seen by looking at the bunches. The must of the grape is basically copper in color, of anthocyanin origin, that does not always persist through bottling. This has to do with the presence or lack of oxygen during fermentation.

In the 1960’s Santa Margherita, thanks to the latest vinification techniques, was able to produce a white wine changing the history of the grape forever. By the 1980’s Pinot Grigio from Italy became so popular that it is looked upon as an Italian grape in the eyes of the world. Today Pinot grigio enjoys world wine popularity and is the number one grape varietal imported into the USA with over a 40% market share.

Some of the bottles

Some of the bottles

Some producers have gone back to the old style and produce a wine, which is copper/ orange in color. An example of this was the #2 wine in the Challenge, “Gossip” by Di Lenardo

The judging took place on the second day. The idea for the International Pinot Grigo Challenge came from Daniele Cernilli, known as “Doctor Wine.”

With Cernilli as the head, 24 judges from many different countries were to taste the wines blind and select the winners. There were 128 wines from all over the world. The judges were divided into groups of three. In the first round a score was given to each wine tasted. Next the 3 judges were presented with 2 wines, each judge stated their preference and one wine was eliminated. With 3 judges there could not be a tie. When this was completed there was a break for lunch. After lunch it was the same except there were 5 judges, again two wines were presented and one was eliminated.

Daniele Cernilli "Doctor Wine" announcing the winners

Daniele Cernilli “Doctor Wine” announcing the winners

Cernilli called the judging a “winebledon” with direct challenges in couples, like a tennis match, evaluated by mixed and uneven juries.

After this segment was over the votes were tallied and there were 8 finalists.

The third day was the official announcement of the winners and the award ceremony. Listed below are the eight finalists in order. The first three wines were awarded medals.IMG_5744

Pinot Grigio Alto Adige “Punggl” DOC 2013 Nals Margreid Trentino Alto Adige #1IMG_5745

Pinot Grigio Ramato (copper) “Gossip” IGT 2013 Venezia Gulia Di Lenardo Friuli Venezia Giulia Harvest is by hand. The grapes are placed in a tank for 18 hours of skin maceration. Then the skins are separated and the must is transferred to temperature-controlled fermentation steel vats. The wine is on the lees before bottling. For the whole process oxygen does not come in contact with the wine in order to preserve the color. The wine has a light copper color with luminescent clarity. The aromas include wild strawberry, elderberry, hay and dried roses with hints of dried fruits and almond. There is a balance of robust fruit and crisp acidity. It is closed with a composite cork DIAM. 20,000 bottles were produced.  I described  how this wine  because has the ‘copper” color. #2IMG_5746

Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave DOC 2013 I Magredi Friuli Venezia Giulia. This wine of the final eight was given the award for best value for the money. #3

Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali DOC 2013 Torre Rosazza Friuli Venezia Giulia

Pinot Grigio Collio “Jesera” DOC 2013 Venica & Venica Friuli Venezia Giulia

Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Castel Ringberg” DOC 2013 Trentinio Alto Adige Elena Walch

Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali DOC 2013 Friuli Venezia Giulia La Sclusa

Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orientali DOC Azienda Perusini di Perusini Teresa Friuli Venezia Giulia

Three of my favorite producers were in this group: Di Leonardo, Venica & Venica and Elena WalchIMG_5734

There was a special category for wines with residual sugar exceeding 9g/l. The winner was Pinot Gris AAC 2013 Cuvee Saine Chatherine Weinbach Faller France.

Looking back over the wines that I chose all of them were from Friuli Venezia Giulia and the Alto Adige. Daniele Cernilli confirmed that I voted for the number one rated wine.

 

 

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May 12, 2014 · 4:51 am

Great Wine Value from the Alto Adige

Every time Peter Zemmer is in town showing the Estate Wines of Peter Zemmer, I look forward to experience them at a tasting and lunch. I look forward to lunch because these are excellent food wines, and what better way to judge the qualities of a wine than with food. The tasting and lunch this year was held at Gotham  Bar and Grill in NYC. The Zemmer wines are a great value. The wines that I tasted ranged in price from $17 to $21 and all of them were well worth the money.IMG_5371

Pete began by saying that the winery was established in 1928, and is located in the Alto Adige-South Tyrol in Northeastern Italy. He spoke about Cortina D’Ampezzo, a beautiful skiing and hiking resort in the Alps, as “his town.” Cortina, he said, is among the smallest communities in the region and is also the last village with a German-speaking majority before the southern border with Trentino.  It is also the only village in the Southern Tyrolean Lowlands/Unterland that is situated on the valley floor.  He described the vineyards and fruit trees that surround the town and told us that the daytime temperature can be 40 degrees higher than the night temperature which enhances the aromas and flavors in the grapes. Bolzano, the largest town in the area, can have summer daytime temperatures as high as Palermo, far to the South in Sicily.

The WinesIMG_5152

Lagrine Rosé 2013 Alto Adige DOC made from 100% Lagrein  After the stems are removed the grapes are left to macerate for one day and then pressed. Peter said that in this way, they succeed in only partially imparting the coloring, which is obtained from the skins, to the must and the wine is able to obtain its fine rosé tone. The alcoholic fermentation is carried out with pure strains of yeast at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. This is the first vintage to been imported into the U.S. This is a wine with nice fruit aromas and flavors, hints of wild berries and violets, with good acidity and a soft spicy finish. $18IMG_5156

Pinot Grigio 2013 Alto Adige DOC There is a selection of grapes from the best vineyards of the valley floor and the steep slopes nearby. The soil here is stony, sandy and extremely chalky. Peter said that the low yields per hectare and this particular terroir combines for a very particular Pinot Grigio.  The grapes are gently pressed, then clarified through the natural settling of sediment.  Alcoholic fermentation is carried out with pure strains of yeast in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Malolactic fermentation does not occur in any of the white wines. The wine remains on the lees for several months before it is bottled. It has more depth than most Pinot Grigio, with ripe fresh fruit, a touch of pear, a hint of spice, good mineral character, and fresh acidity. $17IMG_5160

Pinot Bianco 2012 “Pünggle Vineyard” Alto Adige DOC This Pinot Bianco is a selection of the best vineyards of the valley floor and steep slopes near the vineyard estate. It flourishes under outstanding climatic conditions on a stony, sandy and extremely chalky soil. Peter said that the poor yield per hectare and the particular terroir are responsible for the outstanding quality of the wine. After the grapes arrive, they are gently pressed and clarified through the natural settling of sediments. The alcoholic fermentation is carried out with pure strains of yeast at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. Peter said that after several months of ripening on the yeast the wine in ready to bottle. This is a wine with rich fruity aromas and flavors with hints of green apple, fresh acidity and a mineral character. $20IMG_5158

Rhine Riesling “Rohracker Vineyard” 2013 Alto Adige DOC. Peter said that this grape is very well suited to the micro-climatic conditions and the loose, well-aerated soils in the area. Even though Riesling is a rare variety here it loves cooler climates so that this vineyard where the grapes are grown is at a higher elevation. The grapes are pressed and the stems are removed in a pneumatic tank press. Before being pressed, a 6 – 8 hour cold maceration takes place in order to enhance the fruitiness of the wine. Afterwards, the grapes are gently pressed and clarified through the natural settling of sediments. The alcoholic fermentation is carried out with pure strains of yeast in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. This is a nice crisp dry wine with good body and hints of green apple and a touch of peach.  It has a nice finish and aftertaste. $20IMG_5165

Pinot Nero “Rollhütt Vineyard’ 2012 Alto Adige DOC 100% Pinot Noir. The stems are immediately removed and the grapes are fermented at a constant temperature of 26 – 28° C (79 – 82° F) for about 7 days. The must is kept in contact with the skins through circulation pumping and gentle pressure from below. Peter said that they achieve ideal results with the coloring of the skins and this emphasizes the fruitiness of the wine. After two gentle rackings, 70% of this Pinot Noir is aged over 12 months in large barrels of French oak, and the remainder is aged in small casks of French oak (barriques), which are 2 – 3 years old. After blending, 750 ml Bordeaux-style bottles are filled and the wine is aged an additional 6 months in the bottle before it goes on sale. $22IMG_5167

Lagrein 2012 Raut Vineyard Alto Adige DOC 100% Lagrein Peter said that this varietal, unique to Alto Adige, finds excellent growing conditions on the loamy soils of the community of Ora. Tender care of the vineyard offers the best conditions for the production of varietal and extraordinary quality.  The stems are immediately removed and the grapes are fermented at a constant temperature of 28° C (82° F) for about 10 days. The must is kept in regular contact with the skins through circulation pumping and gentle pressure from below. Peter said by this they achieve ideal results with the coloring from the skins and emphasize the fruitiness of the wine. After two gentle rackings, 60% of this Lagrein is aged over 12 months in large oak barrels, and the remainder is aged in small casks of French oak (barriques), which are 2 – 3 years old. After blending, 750 ml. Bordeaux-style bottles are filled and the wine is aged an additional 6 months in the bottle before it goes on sale. This is a big, intense complex wine with hints of wild berries, violets and spice. $21

 

 

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