Monthly Archives: January 2024

Sicily’s Firriato Winery

Recently I received two bottles of wine from the Firriato Winery in Sicily.  I have a long history with the wines of Firriato which I have always enjoyed. We carried their wines when I was the wine director of I Trulli Restaurant in NYC and a number of years ago, Michele and I visited their estate in Trapani in western Sicily. Eleven years ago I attended a tasting of the wines and lunch at The Leopard at Café des Artistes in NYC.  Six years go I hosted a tasting and lunch of their wines at Norma Gastronomia Siciliana in NYC. Representing the winery at that event was Federico Lombardo di Monte, the COO, and from time to time I have met Federico at different wine events. Most recently I saw him at the Gambero Rosso “Tre Bicchieri” tasting in NYC.

The Firriato Winery is a family affair.  Federico Lombardo di Monte is the COO and the president is Salvatore Di Gaetano.  The CEO is Vinzia Novara Di Gaetano, and Irene Di Gaetano Lombardo di Monte Iato is the Chairman.

Federico Lombardo di Monte Lato with the Etna DOC Bianco “Cavanera” made from Carricante and Catarratto.

The winery was founded in 1984 and today it is comprised of 6 estates, four of which are near Trapani: Baglio Soria, Borgo Guanini — the largest with over 140 hectares of vineyards are Pianoro Cuddia and the Dagala Borromeo. On the east coast near Mount Etna is the Cavanera estate that has 11 hectares of vines. The Calamoni estate is on the island of Favignana, one of the Egadi Islands off the coast of Trapani. There are 380 hectares  of vineyards in total.

In order to maintain quality control each estate is operated independently with its own enologist. There are also two agronomists who take care of all the vineyards.

In April of 2019 Frirrato became the first winery in Europe to accomplish all the conditions to achieve and certify ZERO point greenhouse gas emissions. There are no treatments, fertilizers, or other synthetic chemicals used  during the life cycle of their organic certified grapes.

Trapani has more grapes planted than any other place in Italy.  However, at Firriato, they are interested in quality not the quantity of their wines.  Above all, they love Sicily and Sicilian grape varieties.

The Wines

Sicilia DOC Perricone Ribeca made from 100% Perricone from the Pianoro Cuddia Estate in the Trapani countryside. They use their own clone. The vineyards have a south/southwest exposure at is at 200 meters. There are 5,000/6,000 vines per hectare and the training system is cordon trained guyot and the vines are 14 years old. Manual harvest the 3rd week of September to the 1st week of October. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks according to tradition for 14 days. Aging is for 10/12 months in French durmast barriques.  The wine remains in the bottle for 20 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry jam, blackberries, prunes and cloves with a touch of ginger and a hint of licorice.

Etna DOC Rosso Cavanera  Rovo Della Coturnie made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, red cru blend. The vineyards are on the northeastern side of the volcano at 750 meters and the training system is Alberello Etneo. There are 3,500/4,000 vines per hectare. Soil composition is loamy and sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage. Harvest is by hand the 2nd and 3rd weeks of October. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for  18 days with skin contact. The wine is aged in French oak tonneaux for 18 months and in bottle for at least 12 months before release. Notes of small red fruit, pepper, a touch of vanilla, spice, black currants, blackberry, violets, and with good acidity.

www.firriato.it  for more information on the wines and the winery

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Riccardo Gabriele and the Wines of PR Comunicare IL Vino

Several years ago, Riccardo Gabriele, head of PR Comunicare Il Vino, read my wine blog and contacted me to ask if we could meet.  Not long after, we were able to get together at a Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri tasting in New York.  I learned that Riccardo is based in Livorno, Italy and his agency represents mostly small family run wineries from all over Italy and I was very impressed by the wineries Riccardo represents.  Some of them have very interesting stories.

Below are some of the wines Riccardo represents.  Some of them were unknown to me before I met Riccardo while others I have been drinking for a long time.

Chianti Classico 2019 Castello La Leccia made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 350 to 500 meters, soil is clay, silt sand, schistous clay and alberese. There are 4,500/5,200 vines per hectare and the vines are 9 to 15 years old. There is a south/southwest exposure and the training system is guyot. Harvest is manual in September/October and there is a selection in the vineyard. Destemmed grapes are gently crushed and transferred to steel tanks which are temperature controlled. There is a pre-fermentation cryomaceration for 24 hours followed by alcoholic fermentation with short and frequent pumping over. Maceration lasts for 10 to 12 days. After racking, malolactic fermentation and maturation is in concrete tanks. The wine remains for 12 months in French and Austrian oak barrels of 2,000 to 2,500 liters. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, and violets.

Chianti Classico 2015 DOCG Quercia Al Poggio Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo and Colorino, all indigenous Tuscan grapes which are certified organic. The soil is limestone, clay, schist and calcareous clay galestro. The vines are Cordon trained and spur-pruned guyot. Harvest is manual. Traditional red winemaking in temperature controlled stainless steel and cement. The wine is aged in 500 liter old French oak barrels for 24 months and 6 months in bottle before release.  The winery is located in Barberino Val d’Elsa which is between Florence and Siena. They use organic farming methods. This is a very traditional, easy drinking Chianti with hints of blackberry, blueberries and violets.

Brunello di Montalcino “Madonna della Grazie” 2012 DOCG 100% Sangiovese Il Marroneto. This wine is made from a selection of grapes from the historical vineyard. The name of the wine comes from the little 12th century Madonna della Grazie church very near the vineyard. Fermentation is in Allier oak vats where it remains untouched for 2 days and the fermentation lasts for 20/22 days. The wine is aged in 2,500 liter oak barrels for 41 months and 10 months in bottle before release. It is a complex and elegant wine with aromas and flavors of citrus, cherry, licorice, mineral notes, and that certain something wonderful on the palate that just keeps on lingering. It has an extremely pleasing aftertaste and a long finish. This is an excellent food wine and will age for a long time. In my opinion, this may be the best Brunello!

Vino Noble di Montpulciano Riserva 2009 DOCG.  Podere Boscarelli Usually 86% Prugnolo Gentile, 10% Merlot and 4% Colorino. Rolling hills at 300 meters going down to the River Chiana. Soil is silt and clay. The vines are 6 to 35 years old and are selected from clones from their own vineyards. There are 6,000 plants per hectare, selection at harvest by hand into small crates 2/3 of capacity and another selection in the cellar. Fermentation is with the stalks and after a soft pressing the grapes ferment in little vats of steel and oak filled only to 3/4 of capacity. Fermentation lasts for one week at 28/30º C. Maceration for 5 to 8 days. Only natural yeasts are used. Aging is in 350/2,000 liter barrels of Slovenian oak or French Allier. A little filtration is carried out before bottling if necessary. The wine has hints of violets, blackberries and  blueberries, with a note of tobacco.

Carmignano 2017 Capezzana by Conte Contini Bonaccossi Villa di Capezzana. Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The elevation is 180/220 meters and the soil is clay, limestone, schist and marl. The age of the wines is 20/40 years and the training system is guyot cordon spur. There are 4,500 vines per hectare and they use organic farming practices. Fermentation is with native indigenous yeast. There is a 13 day extended maceration period. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French tonneaux. Aging: 60% in 2nd and 3rd or 4th passage French oak tonneaux, 10% in new French oak tonneaux and 30% in 5/30 year old untoasted Allier or Slavonian 24 HL barrels for 12 months. The wine is aged for another 12 months in bottle before release. This is an elegant wine with hints of red berries, a note of blueberries and a touch of violets. I have a long history with this estate going back 40 years. This is a wine that can age. In 1985 I had the 1925 which at the time was labeled Chianti Montalbano.

Chianti Superiore “Casalini” 2011 DOCG  Fattoria Fibbiano made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo from the hills around Pisa. The soil is mostly clay. They believes that a “green harvest” is very important. Harvest is in late September or early October. The grapes are manually harvested and go through a gentle destemming process. Then they are placed inside specialized stainless steel tanks. In the tanks, the must goes through rotary agitation during the first 7 – 9 days of the fermentation process in order to obtain maximum extraction and separation of seeds to reduce harsher tannins. The must gets fermented by yeast that naturally collects on the grape skins at controlled temperatures and oxygen levels. The wine ages for 8 months in Slavonian oak barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place, and then is placed in bottle for 3 months for refinement.  All of their red wines spend time in concrete tanks. This is an easy drinking wine with aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry and blackberry.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Ninco NancoBriganti made from 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. There are 1,600 vines per hectare and the training system is pergola and guyot. The grapes are hand harvested in October. At the winery the grapes are destemmed, crushed and transferred to fermentation tanks. There is daily pumping over for color and tannins. After fermentation is done the wine goes into concrete tanks and malolactic fermentation is completed in 7/10 days. The wine remains in concrete until it is ready to bottle. The wine has hints of black cherry, raspberry, red plum, a hint of tobacco and a touch of spice. The winery is owned by  former major league baseball player Mike Costanzo.

Montefalco Sagrantino 2015 Bocale made from 100% Sagrantino. The vineyard is treated with natural grass regeneration techniques (land planting), using only organic and mineral fertilizers without the use of chemical products or herbicides. Fermentation is with natural yeasts and the wine is produced without microfiltration and thermal stabilization. Manual harvest takes place the second half of October. Vinification: maceration for at least 40 days with natural enzymes. Stabilization and filtration do not take place. The wine is aged in 1,000 liter French oak barrels for 24 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries and currants with a touch of spice. I was very impressed with this wine.  This wine will age.  Sagrantino has the highest polyphenols and tannin of any grape.

Barolo Bussia 2011 100% Nebbiolo varieties Michet and Lampia. Monforte d’Alba-Sottozone Bussia. Giacomo Fenocchio From a 5 hectares vineyard facing south/southwest at 300 meters. The soil is Helvetian with clayey and calcareous sediments, rich in iron. The vines are 30 years old. Traditional natural fermentation without added yeasts for 40 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 30 months in large Slavonian casks 35 to 50 hl. It remains in the bottle a time before release. This is a classic Barolo with hints of spice, licorice, roses, tar and tea.

Taurasi 2016 DOCG Villa Matilde made from 100% Aglianico. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the training system is simple guyot with about 6 buds per plant. There are 3,000 vines per hectare and the soil is tufaceous with a good percentage of clay. Harvest is the third week of October. The grape bunches are destemmed  and pressed and the must is given a cold maceration on the skins. (Selected yeast is used). The must ferments slowly at 70F. The wine macerates on the skins for over 20 days, with daily pumpovers and délestages followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in tonneaux and large oak barrels for 18 months and 12 months in bottle before release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of cherries, blackberries, spice and a hit of tobacco. I have been lucky to have visited the estate a few times.

For more information and a list of all the wines Riccardo  represents see 

Pr Comunicare il Vino 

 

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Tasting the Wines of Umbria

The Wine Media Guild of NYC held its last tasting and lunch of the year at Il Gattopardo restaurant featuring the wines of Italy’s Umbria Region.

It was a tasting of the wines from four different consortiums:  Sagrantino, Torgiano, Orvieto and Trasimeno.

Umbria is the only region in Italy that does not border on another country or the sea. It borders on the regions of Tuscany, Lazio and Le Marche. It is often called the Green Heart of Italy and is known for its rolling hills, dense forests and medieval hill towns. It has a rich culinary tradition and is noted for black truffles, roasted meats and of course for its wines.

THE WINES

Montefalco Rosso DOC 2020 Bocale made from 70% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and 15% of other indigenous grapes. The grapes are hand harvested the last ten days in September into early October. Vinification is exclusively with natural enzymes. Stabilization and filtration does not take place and the presence of sediments should be considered a guarantee of authenticity.  Aging in barrels and barriques for about 12 months and in bottle for at least 6 months before release. The wine can age for at least 7 to 10 years. It has hints of ripe cherry and violets with a touch of prune and a note of spice.

Montefalco Rosso Riserva 2018 DOC Perticaia made from 70% Sangiovese, !5% Sagrantino and 15% Colorino. The grapes are hanrd picked in mid September for Sangiovese and Colorino and the beginning of October for Sagrantino. There is a cold maceration of the grapes for 48 hours and fermentation takes place with naturally present yeasts. The blended wines are aged in large French oak barrels for at least 24 months, then in steel for 6 months and finally in bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of ripe red fruit, strawberry and blueberry with a touch of vanilla and a hint of spice. It will age for 5 to 10 years.

Antonelli Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2018 Antonelli San Marco. Made from 100% Sagrantino. Sagrantino is the traditional wine of Montefalco, made from Sagrantino grapes from vines grown for centuries on the slopes of the Umbrian hills characterized by great structure and longevity. Vineyards are located on hills between 300 and 400 meters. The exposure is southern and southwesterly and the training system is spurred cordon and guyot. The wines are about 15 years old. The grapes are hand picked the second week of October and there is a final selection in the cellar. Vinification involves using the force of gravity because there are two levels in the cellar. During fermentation the skin is in contact with the juice for 25/40 days and then malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine clarifies spontaneously and there is no need for filtration. The wine is aged in large oak barrels for 18 months. The wine remains in glass lined cement tanks for a number of months before it is bottled.

This is a wine that can age. I visited the winery a number years ago and tasted a number of older vintages. It is my favorite. I am always impressed by the wines. Sagrantino is a grape that should be better known I believe it is right up there with Aglianco, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.

Bianco di Torgiano DOC 2022 “Torre di Giano” Lungarotti made from Vermentino, Trebbiano and Grechetto. Harvest is in early September. The training system is double Guyot pruning and there are 4000 vines/hectare. The wine is produced exclusively with free-run juice.  After a brief cryomaceration it is vinified in stainless steel at a cold temperature.  The wine is fruity a with long-lasting, intense bouquet that recalls citrus fruit, white blossoms and fresh fruit salad; dry and with good structure, it has a fragrant evolution with delicate acidity and a long finish.

Rosso Di Torgiano DOC 2020 “Rubesco” Lungarotti 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaiolo. The soil is clay and sand of medium depth with limestone subsoil. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September/October. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks with 15 days maceration on the skins. It is aged for 12 months in oak casks and lightly filtered before bottling. This is a wine with red fruit aromas and flavors, hints of black cherry, violets, a touch of leather and spice with a very pleasant finish and aftertaste.Colli Del Trasimeno “Òscano” 2022 PGI Carini made from Gamay and Sangiovese from a 2 hectare vineyard. Various types of soils with a large percentage of the marly-arenaceous type.  Northeast exposure at 360 meters. The training system is mainly runner and the average age of the vines is 6/8 years. Harvest is by hand the end of September and the beginning of October with a meticulous sorting of the gapes. The skins are in contact with the juice for 15 to 18 days. There are many pumping overs and a 20% extraction in the initial stage. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with selected yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in casks. Aging is in barriques for 3 months  (French sessile oak casks). The wine is bottled in March/April following the harvest and remains in the bottle for 3 months before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, sweet spices, with a touch of violets.

Trasimeno Grechetto DOC 2022 Montemelino (organic)  made from100% Grechetto. The vineyard is at 250 meters with a southwest exposure. Training system is spurred cordon and the soil is clay. Manual harvest takes place in September. There is a direct pressing of the grapes followed by fermentation at a controlled temperature in steel tanks. Th wine has hints of citrus fruit, pear and a note of white flowers with an almond finish and aftertaste.

Umbria Orvieto DOC Superior 2021 Argillae made from 100% Grechetto. The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and a typical almond finish.

Castello Della Sala Orvieto Classico Superiore 2022 “San Giovanni” Antinori made from Grechetto, Procanico, Pinot Bianco and Viognier. The vineyards are between 220 and 470 meters. Soil is mainly clay, calcareous, rich in fossil shells. The vineyards are well exposed to the sunshine. It ages in steel tanks and rests on the lees for a long time. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, tropical fruit, white flower blossoms with a touch of peach and a note of apricots. This is not your typical Orvieto Classico

Vin Santo Colli del Trasimeno DOC Pucciarella made from Trebbiano, Malvasia and Grechetto. Vineyard is at 300 meters and there are 3,300 plants per hectare. Soil is rich in turbidite, marine sediments such as sand and loam.The manual harvest takes place in the middle of September. The grapes are dried for over 3 months. Yeast strains from previous fermentations are used-sort of a “Madre.” The wine has hints of jam, honey,  figs, quince and almonds.  It is sweet but balanced thanks to very good acidity.

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The bad vintages by Daniele Cernilli

by Daniele Cernilli 2 January 2024

Below is an article by Daniele (aka Doctor Wine) in which I am in complete agreement.

“Woe to generalize. The pretense of judging an absolute vintage can lead to considering as bad vintages that in some areas are not bad at all. Because of the shape of Italy, the climate can be very different from one place to another.

IIn as many as 45 years of frequenting the world of wine I’ve seen a lot of it. In particular, I have witnessed peremptory definitions of the value of various vintages, only to be resoundingly disproved over time.

Of course, that 1972, ’84, ’92 of last century, 2002 and 2014 of this one, were not great is very true. But of exceptions there are several, because Italy is long, narrow, the vineyards are mostly in hilly areas, and the climate can be very different between places. A classic example was the 1989, very bad almost everywhere but very good in Piedmont, in the Langa especially. Then, sure, 1985 was a great vintage, and initially ’86 seemed much inferior. If you went to taste the wines of the two vintages in Bordeaux, in Chianti Classico, in Montalcino, you would probably find today the upside-down values. So too between ’95 and ’97, where the first vintage was hastily deemed “minor” and the second “vintage of the century.” Very advanced and “open” ’85 and ’97, very youthful ’86 and ’95, almost everywhere.

More recently, 2002 also yielded formidable and unsuspected wines, especially in the white sector, while 2014 was “branded” as a decidedly poor vintage. However, in Sardinia and Sicily, at the very least, it is exactly the opposite. So let’s go easy on generalizations.

And the last one, 2023? It depends. Everyone knows that there have been attacks of downy mildew even in areas where it was virtually unknown. Then first drought and soon after continuous rains, lots of hail here and there, and a very successful end to the season. Therefore of the Good winemakers made good wines and in some areas the lower production has led to very interesting results. You have to watch, in short, and Judging on a case-by-case basis, without bias. Many people like drastic stances, though. Evidently testing their beliefs is very difficult for them.”

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