Several years ago, Riccardo Gabriele, head of PR Comunicare Il Vino, read my wine blog and contacted me to ask if we could meet. Not long after, we were able to get together at a Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri tasting in New York. I learned that Riccardo is based in Livorno, Italy and his agency represents mostly small family run wineries from all over Italy and I was very impressed by the wineries Riccardo represents. Some of them have very interesting stories.
Below are some of the wines Riccardo represents. Some of them were unknown to me before I met Riccardo while others I have been drinking for a long time.
Chianti Classico 2019 Castello La Leccia made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 350 to 500 meters, soil is clay, silt sand, schistous clay and alberese. There are 4,500/5,200 vines per hectare and the vines are 9 to 15 years old. There is a south/southwest exposure and the training system is guyot. Harvest is manual in September/October and there is a selection in the vineyard. Destemmed grapes are gently crushed and transferred to steel tanks which are temperature controlled. There is a pre-fermentation cryomaceration for 24 hours followed by alcoholic fermentation with short and frequent pumping over. Maceration lasts for 10 to 12 days. After racking, malolactic fermentation and maturation is in concrete tanks. The wine remains for 12 months in French and Austrian oak barrels of 2,000 to 2,500 liters. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, and violets.
Chianti Classico 2015 DOCG Quercia Al Poggio Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo and Colorino, all indigenous Tuscan grapes which are certified organic. The soil is limestone, clay, schist and calcareous clay galestro. The vines are Cordon trained and spur-pruned guyot. Harvest is manual. Traditional red winemaking in temperature controlled stainless steel and cement. The wine is aged in 500 liter old French oak barrels for 24 months and 6 months in bottle before release. The winery is located in Barberino Val d’Elsa which is between Florence and Siena. They use organic farming methods. This is a very traditional, easy drinking Chianti with hints of blackberry, blueberries and violets.
Brunello di Montalcino “Madonna della Grazie” 2012 DOCG 100% Sangiovese Il Marroneto. This wine is made from a selection of grapes from the historical vineyard. The name of the wine comes from the little 12th century Madonna della Grazie church very near the vineyard. Fermentation is in Allier oak vats where it remains untouched for 2 days and the fermentation lasts for 20/22 days. The wine is aged in 2,500 liter oak barrels for 41 months and 10 months in bottle before release. It is a complex and elegant wine with aromas and flavors of citrus, cherry, licorice, mineral notes, and that certain something wonderful on the palate that just keeps on lingering. It has an extremely pleasing aftertaste and a long finish. This is an excellent food wine and will age for a long time. In my opinion, this may be the best Brunello!
Vino Noble di Montpulciano Riserva 2009 DOCG. Podere Boscarelli Usually 86% Prugnolo Gentile, 10% Merlot and 4% Colorino. Rolling hills at 300 meters going down to the River Chiana. Soil is silt and clay. The vines are 6 to 35 years old and are selected from clones from their own vineyards. There are 6,000 plants per hectare, selection at harvest by hand into small crates 2/3 of capacity and another selection in the cellar. Fermentation is with the stalks and after a soft pressing the grapes ferment in little vats of steel and oak filled only to 3/4 of capacity. Fermentation lasts for one week at 28/30º C. Maceration for 5 to 8 days. Only natural yeasts are used. Aging is in 350/2,000 liter barrels of Slovenian oak or French Allier. A little filtration is carried out before bottling if necessary. The wine has hints of violets, blackberries and blueberries, with a note of tobacco.
Carmignano 2017 Capezzana by Conte Contini Bonaccossi Villa di Capezzana. Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The elevation is 180/220 meters and the soil is clay, limestone, schist and marl. The age of the wines is 20/40 years and the training system is guyot cordon spur. There are 4,500 vines per hectare and they use organic farming practices. Fermentation is with native indigenous yeast. There is a 13 day extended maceration period. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French tonneaux. Aging: 60% in 2nd and 3rd or 4th passage French oak tonneaux, 10% in new French oak tonneaux and 30% in 5/30 year old untoasted Allier or Slavonian 24 HL barrels for 12 months. The wine is aged for another 12 months in bottle before release. This is an elegant wine with hints of red berries, a note of blueberries and a touch of violets. I have a long history with this estate going back 40 years. This is a wine that can age. In 1985 I had the 1925 which at the time was labeled Chianti Montalbano.
Chianti Superiore “Casalini” 2011 DOCG Fattoria Fibbiano made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo from the hills around Pisa. The soil is mostly clay. They believes that a “green harvest” is very important. Harvest is in late September or early October. The grapes are manually harvested and go through a gentle destemming process. Then they are placed inside specialized stainless steel tanks. In the tanks, the must goes through rotary agitation during the first 7 – 9 days of the fermentation process in order to obtain maximum extraction and separation of seeds to reduce harsher tannins. The must gets fermented by yeast that naturally collects on the grape skins at controlled temperatures and oxygen levels. The wine ages for 8 months in Slavonian oak barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place, and then is placed in bottle for 3 months for refinement. All of their red wines spend time in concrete tanks. This is an easy drinking wine with aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry and blackberry.
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Ninco Nanco” Briganti made from 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. There are 1,600 vines per hectare and the training system is pergola and guyot. The grapes are hand harvested in October. At the winery the grapes are destemmed, crushed and transferred to fermentation tanks. There is daily pumping over for color and tannins. After fermentation is done the wine goes into concrete tanks and malolactic fermentation is completed in 7/10 days. The wine remains in concrete until it is ready to bottle. The wine has hints of black cherry, raspberry, red plum, a hint of tobacco and a touch of spice. The winery is owned by former major league baseball player Mike Costanzo.
Montefalco Sagrantino 2015 Bocale made from 100% Sagrantino. The vineyard is treated with natural grass regeneration techniques (land planting), using only organic and mineral fertilizers without the use of chemical products or herbicides. Fermentation is with natural yeasts and the wine is produced without microfiltration and thermal stabilization. Manual harvest takes place the second half of October. Vinification: maceration for at least 40 days with natural enzymes. Stabilization and filtration do not take place. The wine is aged in 1,000 liter French oak barrels for 24 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries and currants with a touch of spice. I was very impressed with this wine. This wine will age. Sagrantino has the highest polyphenols and tannin of any grape.
Barolo Bussia 2011 100% Nebbiolo varieties Michet and Lampia. Monforte d’Alba-Sottozone Bussia. Giacomo Fenocchio From a 5 hectares vineyard facing south/southwest at 300 meters. The soil is Helvetian with clayey and calcareous sediments, rich in iron. The vines are 30 years old. Traditional natural fermentation without added yeasts for 40 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 30 months in large Slavonian casks 35 to 50 hl. It remains in the bottle a time before release. This is a classic Barolo with hints of spice, licorice, roses, tar and tea.
Taurasi 2016 DOCG Villa Matilde made from 100% Aglianico. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the training system is simple guyot with about 6 buds per plant. There are 3,000 vines per hectare and the soil is tufaceous with a good percentage of clay. Harvest is the third week of October. The grape bunches are destemmed and pressed and the must is given a cold maceration on the skins. (Selected yeast is used). The must ferments slowly at 70F. The wine macerates on the skins for over 20 days, with daily pumpovers and délestages followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in tonneaux and large oak barrels for 18 months and 12 months in bottle before release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of cherries, blackberries, spice and a hit of tobacco. I have been lucky to have visited the estate a few times.
For more information and a list of all the wines Riccardo represents see