Recently I received two bottles of wine from the Firriato Winery in Sicily. I have a long history with the wines of Firriato which I have always enjoyed. We carried their wines when I was the wine director of I Trulli Restaurant in NYC and a number of years ago, Michele and I visited their estate in Trapani in western Sicily. Eleven years ago I attended a tasting of the wines and lunch at The Leopard at Café des Artistes in NYC. Six years go I hosted a tasting and lunch of their wines at Norma Gastronomia Siciliana in NYC. Representing the winery at that event was Federico Lombardo di Monte, the COO, and from time to time I have met Federico at different wine events. Most recently I saw him at the Gambero Rosso “Tre Bicchieri” tasting in NYC.
The Firriato Winery is a family affair. Federico Lombardo di Monte is the COO and the president is Salvatore Di Gaetano. The CEO is Vinzia Novara Di Gaetano, and Irene Di Gaetano Lombardo di Monte Iato is the Chairman.
Federico Lombardo di Monte Lato with the Etna DOC Bianco “Cavanera” made from Carricante and Catarratto.
The winery was founded in 1984 and today it is comprised of 6 estates, four of which are near Trapani: Baglio Soria, Borgo Guanini — the largest with over 140 hectares of vineyards are Pianoro Cuddia and the Dagala Borromeo. On the east coast near Mount Etna is the Cavanera estate that has 11 hectares of vines. The Calamoni estate is on the island of Favignana, one of the Egadi Islands off the coast of Trapani. There are 380 hectares of vineyards in total.
In order to maintain quality control each estate is operated independently with its own enologist. There are also two agronomists who take care of all the vineyards.
In April of 2019 Frirrato became the first winery in Europe to accomplish all the conditions to achieve and certify ZERO point greenhouse gas emissions. There are no treatments, fertilizers, or other synthetic chemicals used during the life cycle of their organic certified grapes.
Trapani has more grapes planted than any other place in Italy. However, at Firriato, they are interested in quality not the quantity of their wines. Above all, they love Sicily and Sicilian grape varieties.
The Wines
Sicilia DOC Perricone Ribeca made from 100% Perricone from the Pianoro Cuddia Estate in the Trapani countryside. They use their own clone. The vineyards have a south/southwest exposure at is at 200 meters. There are 5,000/6,000 vines per hectare and the training system is cordon trained guyot and the vines are 14 years old. Manual harvest the 3rd week of September to the 1st week of October. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks according to tradition for 14 days. Aging is for 10/12 months in French durmast barriques. The wine remains in the bottle for 20 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry jam, blackberries, prunes and cloves with a touch of ginger and a hint of licorice.
Etna DOC Rosso Cavanera Rovo Della Coturnie made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, red cru blend. The vineyards are on the northeastern side of the volcano at 750 meters and the training system is Alberello Etneo. There are 3,500/4,000 vines per hectare. Soil composition is loamy and sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage. Harvest is by hand the 2nd and 3rd weeks of October. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 18 days with skin contact. The wine is aged in French oak tonneaux for 18 months and in bottle for at least 12 months before release. Notes of small red fruit, pepper, a touch of vanilla, spice, black currants, blackberry, violets, and with good acidity.
www.firriato.it for more information on the wines and the winery
I just had an amazing dinner at Roberto’s Ristorante with Firriato wines and Federico Lombardo presenting them. Both food and wines were fantastic!