Monthly Archives: December 2023

December 27, 2023 · 3:28 am

Enjoying Champagne

In years my past, my end-of-the-year blog post would be about the many Champagne varieties I tasted at the annual Wine Media Guild and NY Wine Press tastings, usually hosted by “Champagne Ed” Mc Carthy.  However, in the aftermath of Covid, the NY Wine Press no longer exists and the Wine Media Guild hosts very few events.

Nevertheless, here are some of the Champagnes I drank and enjoyed over the last year or so.

Champagne Ruinart Blanc De Blancs 100% Chardonnay from  a blending of 20 to 25 selected crus. Alcoholic fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel vats and malolactic fermentation is completed. The wine is aged for 2 to 3 years years and the dosage is 7g/l. The wine has hints of pears and peaches, ripe lemon, and a note of ginger.

Champagne Baron-Fuente Brut Vintage 2008 made from 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 15% Pinot Noir. The wine is aged in the cellar for 8 years and the dosage is 8g/l. It has hints of citrus fruit, white peaches, a touch of red fruit and a note of green apple.

Gosset Champagne Brut made from 45% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Meunier. Malolactic fermentation is avoided. It has hints of apple, citrus fruit, lime, almonds and a touch of lemon.  8g/l dosage. Gosset is the oldest Champagne House in Aÿ.

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Resere made from 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier from 50% reserve wivnes. Of the 60 Champagne crus chosen to produce this cuvée, 3 are pillars of the Réserve style. Oger:  (Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs) gives it its fleshy and generous notes. Ambonnay: (Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims) is synonymous with power, structure and fruity notes. Verneuil: (Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne) ensures its balance and smooth texture.  Vinification varietal by varietal in stainless steel vats with 5 to 10% of the wine vinified in old Burgundy barrels.  It has hints of freshly baked brioche, mango, apricot, plum, dried fruits with a touch of pistachio and almond.

Krug 1996 made from 48% Pinot Noir, 31% Chardonnay and 21% Meunier. 1996 was one of the best vintages of the century. It was the last vintage blended by three generations of the Krug family working together. It is made from 17 different growths. This is a  champagne with rich mature aromas, full ripe flavors, hints of pear, ripe fruit, citrus, honey, gingerbread, butterscotch and brioche. It has a very long finish and a memorable aftertaste. This may very well be the Champagne of the century.  Disgorged in 2007.

Krug Grande Cuvée 170 EME Edition Champagne  made from 45/55% Pinot Noir, 15/20 Pinot Meunier and 25/35 Chardonnay–the percentage depends upon the vintage. The blend is made from 195 wines from 12  different vintages, the youngest from 2014 and the oldest from 1998. It is aged for seven years in the cellars. All Krug Champagnes are aged in used small oak barrels. They are all prestige cuvees made from Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages and are aged longer before release. The overall rating for the vineyards is 98% with Krug’s own vineyards rating 100%.  This is a Champagne with hints of dried citrus fruit, gingerbread, hazelnuts and almonds, a note of honey and a touch of brioche. It has a long finish and a wonderful aftertaste. Fantastic!  When I tasted this with “Champagne Ed,” he said, “Obviously this is not just another NV Champagne.”

Champagne Krug du Mesnil 1988 Brut Blanc de Blancs is a very rare Champagne because it is made from a single plot of Chardonnay harvested in a single year. This 1.84-hectare (4.5 acre) vineyard overlooked by the village church has been protected by a wall since 1698. The vineyard is located in the heart of Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of the most iconic villages for Chardonnay in the Champagne region. This champagne is generous and round with hints of citrus, dried fruit, brioche, tart tatin and a note of honey. It lingers on the palate with a long finish and notes of honey ginger. The first vintage was 1979. Krug is Michele’s favorite Champagne.

Thanks to  “Champagne Ed” Mc Carthy for all 3 of the Krug wines.

Champagne Dom Perignon 2012 made from equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The grapes come from five Grand Cru villages and one Premier Cru village. This is an elegant and complex Champagne with hints of melon, tropical fruit, and mandarin orange with a hint of jasmine and a touch of spice.

On other recent occasions with these same friends,  Judith and Nat they also shared the 2008 and 2010 Dom Perignon.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

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December 22, 2023 · 2:54 am

Eight Wines to Enjoy from 2023

Looking back on 2023, I have written about many wines and here are eight more, five from Italy and three from California, that I think you might want to know about.

Umbria IGT Bianco Grechetto 2021  Argillae made from 100% Grechetto. The training system is guyot, there are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest takes place in September. After a careful selection in the vineyards, cold maceration takes place. There is a brief pressing and the juice is racked and fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks before it is bottled in February/March. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, a touch of jasmine, good acidity and a typical almond finish. $18

I have visited the winery a few times as it is just outside Orvieto which is a short train ride from Rome.

Giulia di Cosimo, manager/owner of the winery at a Wine Media Guild tasting

This wine was tasted at an event sponsored by the region of Umbria for the NY Wine Media Guild in NYC at Il Gattopardo Restaurant.

Nero D’Avola “Irmána” Sicilia DOC 2022 Corvo made from 100% organic Nero d’Avila from western and southern Sicily from vineyards over 200 meters. Soil is a mixed composition of limestone/siliceous and the training system is espalier with medium to high density of vines per hectare. Harvest is in the last two weeks in September. Traditional fermentation with balanced maceration on the skins followed by careful malolactic fermentation. The wine then remains in steel for two months. After the wine is bottled it spends one month in the cellars before release. This aromatic wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, licorice  a touch of strawberry and a hint of red currents. $NA

Nero D’Avola “10” Sicilia DOC  2020  Baglio Bonsignori made from 100% Nero d’Avola. The winery is located in the Giddio district of the countryside of Naro in the province of Agrigento in Sicily. There are 13 hectares of vineyards which are located at an altitude of between 300 and 400 meters above sea level and 18 kilometers from the sea.  The soil is calcareous/clay. The winery is biodynamic. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, plum, spice and a touch of tobacco.  $NA

My grandfather Angelo Scicolone was born in Naro in 1868.  I visited there once many years ago way before this winery was established.

Chianti Classico DOCG 2019  Querciabella made of mostly Sangiovese from top sites in three of Chianti’s best sub-zones: Greve, Radda, and Gaiole. In Greve, the Sangiovese enjoys a natural south-orientation. The soils, typically composed of sandstone rocks and sands obtained from the flaking of galestro, are richer in clay at lower altitudes (350-400 meters) and progressively become looser and more draining as they reach close to 550 meters. Similar characteristics can be found in Radda (450 meters), but the higher presence of galestro slate results in wines of persistent tannins and darker fruit profiles. At 500 meters, the soils in Gaiole are rich in calcium carbonate and deliver a riper expression of the Sangiovese fruit and a marked acidity thanks to the presence of limestone rocks, also known as Albarese. Grapes are carefully selected in the vineyards, and harvested by hand into 9kg crates. They are destemmed, never crushed, then conveyed into temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, where alcoholic fermentation and maceration take place. Maceration lasts about 12 days. After completing full malolactic fermentation, the wine is transferred  to extra fine grained oak barriques (225L) and tonneaux (500L) of which 10% are new. The wine is regularly racked and tasted during the entire 12-month maturation period. At the end of the élevage, the best lots are selected through extensive tasting and assembled to create the final blend. After bottling, the wine rests for at least three months before release. The winery is 100% Biodynamic and organic Vegan. No animal products or byproducts are used in the production of this wine, making it suitable for vegans and vegetarians. There is no use of chemicals, fertilizers or pesticides, creating a welcoming environment for the existence of beneficial insects and birds that assist the natural viticultural practices. Querciabella has been a top producer for many years. $34

Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2020 Antonelli San Marco. Made from 100% Sagrantino. Sagrantino is the traditional wine of Montefalco, made from Sagrantino grapes from vines grown for centuries on the slopes of the Umbrian hills characterized by great structure and longevity. Vineyards are located on hills between 300 and 400 meters.The exposure is southern and southwesterly and the training system is spurred cordon and guyot. The wines are about 15 years old. The grapes are hand picked the second week of October and there is a final selection in the cellar. Vinification involves using the force of gravity because there are two levels in the cellar. During fermentation the skin is in contact with the juice for 25/40 days and then malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine clarifies spontaneously and there is no need for filtration. The wine is aged in large oak barrels for 18 months. The wine remains in glass lined cement tanks for a number of months before it is bottled.

This is a very complex wine with hints of red and black fruit, wild berries, cherry, a touch of citrus and a note of mint. $45. The winery is certified organic.

I visited the winery a number of years ago and was very impressed with the wines. I was able to taste wines that were 10 years to 15. More recently I was able to taste the wines again in Filippo Antonelli’s home in Rome. I am always impressed by his wines.  I tasted this wine at an event sponsored by the region of Umbria for the NY Wine Media Guild in NYC at Il Gattopardo.

California Wine

Chardonnay 2019 Ettore Biraghi made from 100% pure Chardonnay organic grapes from 100% estate grown grapes in the Sanel Valley Vineyards/Hopland, in the southernmost town in Mendocino County in California. The soil is mostly gravel and loamy and the elevation is 500 to 600 feet.  Age of vine plots from 8 to 22 years. Harvest is by hand and there is traditional white wine fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, banana, melon and a touch of caramel $28

Chardonnay  2021 Langetwins made from 100% Chardonnay from the Clarksburg Merrill Vineyard (81.09 acres) Certified Lodi Rules for Sustainable Wine growing. Soil is silty and mucky clay loam with derivation mixed rock and decomposed plants. Training system is trellising with T-Trellis with 16” foliage crossarm. Harvest is from August 21 to September 1. Aging in neutral oak for 16 months. Residual sugar 1.5 g/l. The wine has hints of brioche, honeyed melon and tropical pineapple. $25

Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 Langetwins made from 100% Cabernet from the Thirty Eight Vineyard, Jahant AVA(48.52 acres. Soil is thick surface loam with derivation granite rock. The training system is Trellising-California Sprawl. Harvest was September 12. The wine is aged in French oak for 19 months and was bottled on April 20, 2023. The wine has hints of plum, star anise and mission figs. $38

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

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Filed under Antonelli, Argillae Winery, California wine, Chianti Classico, Montefalco, sagrantino

December 18, 2023 · 3:05 am

Tasting Wine and Cheese from Northern Italy

Last month I received tasting amples from the Monti Trentini cheese company located in Northern Italy. Michele and I liked the cheese and Michele also used them for some meals she prepared for us.

Two weeks ago another invitation came from the Monti Trentini company and this time it was for a wine and cheese tasting to be held at Eataly Flatiron in NYC.

The speaker was Maria Vittoria Finco, member of the Finco family that owns Monti Trentini, and their Marketing and Communications Director.

Maria said that the company began in1925 in the town of Enego, located in the Asiago Plateau, in old artisanal dairy where the Finco family started making cheese

In 1989 they started Casearia Monti Trentini in Grigno Valsugana in Trentino. Today the third and fourth generations of the family operate the full cheese making activity at the Grigno factory.  The old dairy is still used for the production of Asiago, which Maria called the “Product of the Mountain,” and its aging caves.

Maria Vittoria said that Monti Trentini, with almost 100 years of experience, produces 30 different types of cheeses, from the well known and appreciated Grana Padano to a trendy cheese with truffles.  “Everything that we produce is made in our plant in northern Italy surrounded by the Alps. We collect our milk in Trentino and Veneto regions of Italy and we produce, age and pack cheeses in the same location.”

Maria Vittoria told us some interesting and amusing stories about growing up in a “cheese family,” but said that she does not eat in every night.

The company’s exceptionally long tradition in the production of cheese made from the milk of mountain grazing cows from the Dolomites Mountains gives the cheese a unique fragrances of herbs and a distinctive yellow color.  They only make cow’s milk cheese.

For the tasting, the cheese was arranged clockwise beginning at 12:00: Asiago, Caciotta Erbe, La Malghe di Vezzena, Aged Truffle Caciotta.

Ferrari Brut NV Methodo Classico 100% Chardonnay. Trento DOC.  The grapes are picked by hand at the end of August and beginning of September. They come from various communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi. The vineyards are between 300 and 600 meters above sea level, with southeast or southwest exposure. The wine is aged for at least 24 months on the lees. Selected yeast from Ferrari’s own cultures are used. The wine has hints of apples, wildflowers and a delicate touch of brioche and undertones of ripe citrus fruit.

We tasted the Ferrari brut with the Asiago and the aromas and flavors of the wine blended very well with the soft creamy flavors of the cheese.

Asiago  PDO Fresco produced from with cow’s milk, salt and rennet. Made only with milk from the POD area in Northern Italy. Ages for a minimum of 20 days. This is a mild cheese with a soft texture, white to pale straw in color.

Ferrari Perlé Rosé Riserva 2017 Trento DOC Method Classico Vintage 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. This is a vintage Rosé from the Lunelli family estate vineyards, harvested by hand at the end of September on the hills surrounding Trento, between 300 and 600 feet above sea level with either southeastern or southwestern exposure. In 2017 there was mild weather and perfect ripening conditions. It is aged 5 years on selected yeasts. It is an elegant and complex Rosé with ripe red berry aromas and flavors with hints of raspberry, strawberries, currants and a long finish and pleasing aftertaste. This soft semi sweet cheese was a good match with the wine as its berry flavors brought out the mild herbal flavors of the fresh cheese.

Caciotta Erbe all natural cheese with Italian  flavored with aromatic mountain herbs. It is a semi-sweet cheese and is aged for at least 5 days.

Cantina Lavis Trentino DOC Sauvignon Blanc made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards in Giovo at 300 to 450 meters. Exposure is east, south and west and the training system is Trentino split pergola. There are 5,000 vines per hectare and the soil is clay loam, fertile and of medium depth. Manual harvest takes place in late September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes in a inert environment, then a static decantation of the must. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. 10% of the wine is aged in oak barrels. The wine remains on the lees for about 4 or 5 months before bottling. The wine has hints of grass, herbs, nettles, ripe fruit with a touch of elderberry.

La Malghe di Vezzena The cheese has a semi hard compact texture that gets more granular the longer the cheese ages. This cheese was aged for 3/4 months and the one labeled Vecchio is aged from 9 months and more. This is Maria Vittoria’s favorite cheese.

This was also my favorite cheese of the tasting but the herbaceous grass flavors of the wine did not match well with the slightly caramelized cheese with hints of roasted almonds. This cheese is and very similar to Grana Padano.  I would have enjoyed it more with a spumante.

Foradori Teroldego Vignette Delle Dolomiti IGT made from 100% Teroldego from grapes grown organically. The winery is certified biodynamic. The vines were planted between  1956 and 2005. The older vines are pergola trained while the newer ones are guyot trained.  The grapes are planted in the sandy, alluvial gravel soils of the Campo Rotaliano that shows all the classic dark-fruited aromas and flavors of the grape. There are 9 hectare of vineyards across various plots. Fermentation and fining in cement tanks and then 12 months in barrel  and cement tanks. The wine has hints of blackberry, cherry, raspberry, violet and a touch of plum. I was very impressed by the wine.

Aged Truffle Caciotta Premium is a fine cheese produced with the addition of black summer Italian truffles. This would have been a perfect combination with the wine if the truffle flavor was less pronounced.

These are tasty cheeses for holiday entertaining.

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Filed under Cheese, Ferrari, Monti Trentni

December 14, 2023 · 2:07 am

Song’E Napule for Great Pizza

I have never had a pizza made by Ciro Iovine at any one of his four Song’ E Napule Pizzeria and Trattoria restaurants.

But I have had his handmade pizzas at several events where he was one of the guest pizzaioli.

I took this picture of Ciro a few years ago at an event where the art of Neapolitan pizzamaking was being granted World Heritage Status by the United Nations and was being added to UNESCO’s “Intangible list.”

Recently I attended a Masterclass PizzaLab promotion for Italian Cuisine in the World in NYC. Ciro one one of two pizzaioli making pizza at the event.  After tasting his pizza, I have come to the conclusion that he is a great pizzaiolo in the Neapolitan tradition.

Ciro is on the right

While visiting a friend in New Jersey recently, I had an opportunity to have lunch at the Rutherford branch of Song’ E Napule (from the song by Pino Daniele).  Ciro wasn’t there making the pizza for us personally, but his spirit and love for the food of Napoli was evident in everything we ate.  Here is what we had:

Calamari Fritti served with San Marzano tomato sauce.  Fried calamari are served everywhere, but these were exceptional.  Perfectly fried, crunchy and not at all greasy.

Insalata Di Polpo:  chilled Mediterranean octopus, organic parsley and lemon citronette dressing.  Tender octopus with arugula in a tangy dressing.

A surprise offering from the chef was a slice of melted provola cheese in a breadcrumb crust topped with tomato sauce, which we devoured.


The Pizza Oven

The Pizza

Pizza Margherita — Tomato Sauce (made with Slow Food San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane tomatoes), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), basil and extra virgin olive oil.

Vegetarian Pizza –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di agerola), zucchini, eggplant, mushrooms, artichoke, broccoli rabe, basil and extra virgin olive oil.

Pizza Napoletana –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di agerola), anchovies, basil, and extra virgin olive oil.

Barbera d’ Asti “Vigna Noce” 1997 Antica Azienda Agricola Trinchero.  Made from 100% Barbera.  The winery belongs to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists, an association of wine producers from around the world that believes in Organic and Bio-Dynamic production, terroir and as little interference as possible by the wine maker. Only natural yeast is used, there is no acidification of the wine, clarification and filtration does not take place. Chemical treatments are not used in the vineyards; copper and sulfur are used but only when it is really necessary. The wine is aged for 7 years in large chestnut barrels. This is a traditional, classic Barbera that will last for at least another 5/10 years.

For a sweet finish, we had Pizza Dough Fritters drizzled with Nutella imported from Italy.

A good espresso is the perfect ending.

Song’ E Napule is located at 106 Park Ave, Rutherford NJ  (201) 347-9339.

There are 3 other locations all in Manhattan: 146 West Houston St.,  646 Amsterdam Ave, and 132 West Houston St.

I look forward to the day when I can have pizza made personally by Ciro at one of his restaurants.

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Filed under Pizza, Pizza and Wine, Pizza Restaurants, Song E'Napoli

December 12, 2023 · 3:19 am

The Tradition Continues at Masciarelli

I had the pleasure of visiting Masciarelli Tenuta Agricole winery a number of years ago on a press trip to Abruzzo and was very impressed with the wines.

Recently I was contacted by Jane Kettlewell of Creative Palate Communications to take part in a webinar presented by Miriam Lee Masciarelli.  Miriam is a promoter of the Abruzzo Region and a roving ambassador for her family’s winery.

Miriam spoke about her father, Gianni Masciarelli, as a symbol of Italian wine and of the success of modern wine production in Abruzzo. He started with 2.5 hectares of vineyards owned by his grandfather near the family home in San Martino Sulla Marrucina in the province of Chieti.

He was a non-stop innovator who frequently went against tradition. In fact, he was the first producer to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and the use of French oak barrels for the aging of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines.  Sadly Gianni passed away in 2008 at age 53.

Today the company is led by Marina Cvetic, Gianni’s widow, and Miriam who is Marina and Gianni’s eldest daughter.  The mother and daughter team have taken up the difficult legacy of continuing to elevate Abruzzo wines and vines into the world wine scene.

San Martino Sulla Marrucina is the center of the winery.  Today the estate includes vineyards and olive groves in all 4 provinces of Abruzzo (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo and l’Aquila). This gives the winery the unique ability to demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo’s terroir as the only producer in Abruzzo with vineyards in all four provinces.

The estate has grown to 350 hectares of vineyards and only estate grown grapes are used for their wine. They now have more than 60 plots of vineyards in 13 municipalities. They are the largest privately owned winery by vineyard size in Abruzzo.  Attilio Alfino is the winemaker.

The three most important wine designations in Abruzzo are: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (red), Cerasuolo (rose), and Trebbiano D’Abruzzo (white). Abruzzo is the number five wine producing region in Italy.

Masciarelli Wines

Villa Gemma Bianco Colline Teatine 2022 IGT made from a blend of autoctinous varieties: 50% Trebbiano, 30% Pecorino and 20% Cococciola from the S. Martino sulla Marrucina vineyard at 400 meters, Ripa Teatina at 250 meters and the Loreto Aprutino at 350 meters. Training and pruning system is Abruzzo Curtain (Pergola Abruzzese).  There are 1,600 plants per hectare and harvest is at the end of September. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and the wine is aged in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of aromatic herbs and citrus fruit with good acidity and nice minerality. This is a wine that can be drunk young. $24

Maria Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2020 DOC Made from 100% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from the S.Martino sulla Marrucina vineyard at 400 meters with 6,000 vines per hectare and the Bucchianico vineyard at 250 meters with 1,600 vines per hectare. Average age of vines  is 18 to 20 years. The soil is clayey/medium calcareous.  Vines are guyot and Pergola Abruzzese trained. Harvest takes place between October 10th and 20th. Cryo-maceration in press for 12 hours and the wine is fermented in new French oak barrels. Aging is in barriques for 12 months and in bottle for 6 to 12 months. The wine has hints of white peach, Sicilian almonds and floral notes. $60. This is a white wine that can age. $60

Villa Gemma Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo 2022 DOC Superiore made from100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the S. Martino sulla Marrucina vineyard at 400 meters. The exposure is southwest and the soil is clayey/medium limestone. There are 9,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Average age of the vines is about 30 years. Harvest is the second and third weeks of October. Destemming of the grapes is followed by 12 hours of permanence on the skins at 4C with fermentation at a controlled temperature. Aging on the lees for 3 months until bottling. The wine is cherry red in color, intense and fruity with hints of fresh cherry, pomegranate, and a touch strawberry. This is a wine that can be drunk young. $24

Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC 2019 made from 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo from S. Martino sulla Marrucino at 400 meters and from the Colle di Paolo, Fonte Filippo, Schiavone and Colle Rosina vineyards. The training system is simple guyot and spur cordon and Abruzzo pergola (canopy). There are 6,000 to 9,000 plants per hectare.  The vines are 15 to 30 years old. Harvest takes place in the middle of October. Fermentation is in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days and maceration is for 20 to 30 days. The different crus are vinified separately with dedicated fermentation and maceration, and aged in barriques for 12 months. Then the crus are blended, bottled and aged in bottle for at least 6 months. This is a complex and intense wine that has hints of red fruit, black fruit, spice, and cherry. $38

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2018 Riserva “Villa Gemma” made from 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grown on steep, sloped Colle Cave vineyards in Chieti. The soil is limestone, clay and gravel. The training system is French guyot and the farming is sustainable. Average age of vines is 35 years.  The exposure is southeast. Harvest is by hand and ends the last week in October. Fermentation is in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days, followed by a maceration of 23 to 30 days. Aging is for 12 months in 100% new French oak barriques, followed by 3 years in bottle before release. The wine has hints of blackberry, blueberry, dried red fruit, pumice, a touch of spice, and a hint of vanilla. This wine is approachable now but it will age for ten years of more. $98

In 2000, Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1995 was named “Best Wine in Italy” by Gambero Rosso.  It was the first Montepulciano to ever receive this distinction. Over the years the wine has received many honors from the press.

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December 7, 2023 · 2:52 am

Frescobaldi’s Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico

The Frescobaldi Family has eleven estates in Italy, ten of which are in Tuscany. Tenuta Castiglione in Chianti Classico is the point of origin of wine production for Frescobaldi and documents indicate that wines were produced there as early as 1300.

The family traces its roots back 700 years in Florence through 30 generations.  They began in banking and played an important role in the political, economic, cultural and social life of Florence.  Today the family family operates the wine producer Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi and is behind the Laudemio brand of Italian olive oil.

I have enjoyed Frescobaldi wines for many years and recently had an opportunity to taste wines from Tenuta Perano which they also own.

Tenuta  Perano is located in Gaiole in Chianti, in the Chianti Chianti Classico region of Tuscany. The vineyards are at 500 meters. Steep slopes and stony soils characterize the landscape.

Chianti Classico 2020 made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties. Grapes are harvested by hand. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Then maceration on the skins with a controlled and careful pumping over. The different grapes were aged separately in wood, then further aging in bottle until the wine is ready for release. The wine has hints of red berries, cherries, plums, violets, floral notes and a touch of spice. $27

Chianti Classico 2016 Riserva Chianti Classico Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. The vineyard is at 500 meters. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The cap formed on the surface is broken frequently to ensure perfect polyphonic extraction.  The wine is aged in oak barrels for 24 months and for a time in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berries, and leather with floral notes and a touch of pepper. $46

Chianti Classico 2018 Riserva made from Sangiovese and Merlot same as above $46

Chianti Classico “ Rialzi”  Grand Selezione 2018 Made from 100% Sangiovese from the Rialzi vineyard at 500 meters and higher, laid out over three terraces with alberese soil and a southern exposure. At harvest the grapes are carefully hand picked and at the winery there is another selection process. Fermentation is in temperature controlled  stainless steel vats, with skin maceration and gentle pumping over. Aging is for 36 months in which 24 were in barriques. Then the wine is aged in the bottle until it is ready for release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of cider, cinnamon, sweet spices, plum, fig and a touch of tobacco. $51

Both 2016 and 2018 were excellent vintages in Chianti Classcio

 

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Filed under Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Gran Selectione, Frescobaldi

December 4, 2023 · 4:36 am

Briganti Winery: Wine, Bandits and Baseball

Riccardo Gabriele of PR Communicare Vino, an Italian PR agency, represents some of the top Italian wineries.  He asked me if I would like to meet with one of his new Italian  producers for lunch in NYC, Mike Costanzo of Briganti Wines.  Mike is an American and has a winery in Abruzzo.  What Riccardo did not mention was that Mike was a former MLB third baseman and played for the Cincinnati Reds. I have met a lot of winery owners over the years from all over the world, but Mike’s association with baseball was a first.

We met at Fresca by Scotto for lunch with Mike and his girlfriend Lauren.

Mike is very personable and charming and we hit it off right away. We talked mostly about wine and food and a little about baseball.

Mike said  Briganti is a brand that emerged from the well-respected Risogna Vini, an agricultural company located in Orsogna, Chieti, that has been producing high quality wines in the Abruzzo Region since 2017.

The Abruzzo Region of Italy, located to the east of Rome, has everything going for it. There are beautiful national parks, a long coastline on the Adriatic, the rugged snowcapped Apennine Mountains, and little medieval towns perched precariously on hill tops. Abruzzo is situated between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella massif. It is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy with three national parks and more than ten national and regional natural reserves.  Abruzzo geographically is more central than southern Italy, but due to its connection with the old Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, it is considered part of the South. Most vineyards are in hilly areas, of which 75% are in the province of Chieti.

“Ninco Nanco” a Briganti

Mike said the name Briganti pays homage to the region’s past, as Abruzzo is famous for being the birthplace of the brigandage movement in Italy. During the decade between 1860 and 1870 following Italy’s unification, the Briganti d’Abruzzo experienced its greatest development.  Unification had the immediate effect of creating a huge increase in taxes that generated hunger, famine and widespread poverty. In response to a series of injustices, appropriations and violations, local people formed gangs to rebel against what was happening and fight for their rights. The gangs became roving bands that were known as brigantine.

Mike honors the memory of these brigantini with the names and pictures on the labels of the wine.

Terre di Chieti IGP “Mecola” made from 100% made from 100% Pecorino. There are 1,600 plants per hectare. The training system is pergola and guyot (4,000 vines per hectare for the double guyot). Harvest takes place in October. Carefully selected grapes are destemmed then cry-maceration of the crushed grapes takes place for extraction of color and flavor. This is followed by a soft pressing of the grapes and temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 30 days. The wine has hints of lemon blossom, peach a hint of jasmine, floral notes of acacia and a slight mineral edge.

Mike said Pecorino is one of Italy’s indigenous grape varieties cultivated in the hills of Abruzzo. It is known for its refreshing acidity, floral aromas, stone fruits, tropical fruit flavors and minerality.  Mike said that the wine is named for Mecola, an Abruzzese ancestor who proudly defended the freedoms of the farmers of Abruzzo in the 1860s during the unification of Italy.

Terre Di Chieti IGP Pinot Grigio “Filomena D’Orazio” made from 100% Pinot Grigio. There are 4,000 wines per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is at the end of August. Carefully selected grapes are soft pressed and fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel for 10/15 days.  The wine remains in stainless steel until it is bottled. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, chestnut, a touch of honey and a note of hazelnuts.

Mike said that his winemaking philosophy reflects the passion of those who fought against oppression and sought refuge in cultivating the land.  This wine celebrates Filomena D’Orazio, who represents the strength and courage of her time.  This is their signature Pinot Grigio.

Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo DOC “Ciuccolo” this rosé is made from 100%  Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. There are 1,400 vines per hectare and they are pergola trained. Harvest is in the first 10 days of October. The grapes are crushed with maceration on the skins for 2/4. Then a soft pressing followed by a cold soak clarification. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature for 10/12 days. The wine remains in stainless steel until it is ready to bottle. The wine has hints of strawberries, pomegranate, and cherry and it is medium bodied with crisp acidity.

Mike said Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a hearty, robust rosé, with rich color and fresh fruit flavors. It has stood the test of time. This wine is named in honor of the brigand known as “Ciuccolo” who fought for the rights of his fellow citizens during the unification of Italy in the 1860’s. His legend lives on and is timeless.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC “Ninco Nanco” made from 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. There are 1,600 vines per hectare and the training system is pergola and guyot. The grapes are hard harvested in October. At the winery the grapes are destemmed, crushed and transferred to fermentation tanks. There is daily pumping over for iteration of color and tannins. After fermentation is done the wine goes into concrete tanks and malolactic fermentation is completed in 7/10 days. The wine remains in concrete until it is ready to bottle. The wine has hints of black cherry, raspberry, red plum, hint of tobacco and a touch of spice.

Mike said that this wine is in named honor of Ninco Nanco, a dedicated patriot of Italy’s independence and a believer in social justice, who represents the power and strength of the red wines from Abruzzo. Montepulciano is rich and bold with natural acidity, ripe red/black fruits, and robust herbal and spicy notes.

The wine was a perfect combination with the pork and red peppers we had for lunch.

After tasting the wines I asked Mike what the retail price would be, and he said between $16 and $18 a bottle. These wines are a fantastic value for the money.

Mike is looking for a distributor in the NY and his wines are available in other parts of the US.

As a lifelong baseball fan, I asked Mike about his career in the Major Leagues.  We talked a lot about it and Mike said that one of the highlights of his career was at Yankee Stadium where he got his first major hit.  Derek Jeter, the great Yankee shortstop, retrieved the ball and gave it to him. He will never forget that moment and meeting Jeter.

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Filed under Abruzzo, Briganti Winery, Montepulciano d' Abruzzo, Pinot Grigio