Category Archives: Burgundy

December 29, 2025 · 3:51 am

The Perfect Christmas Dinner

Michele and I always look forward to Christmas dinner with Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow. For a number of years it has been our tradition to invite Tom and Diane to our house for Thanksgiving dinner, and they have us to their home for Christmas. They are excellent and adventurous cooks.  Tom has a great wine collection and will try to find the perfect wine match each course.  Though all of our previous holiday celebrations have been wonderful, it seemed to be extra-special this year.

Champagne John Charles Ricciuti Premier Cru Réserve  NV made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and aging is in steel tanks. Residual sugar is7g/l and the alcohol is 12 %. The wine has hints of apple,  ginger with a hint of pear and a touch of lemon.


A plate of freshly baked gougeres accompanied the Champagne along with slices of felino salami, nuts and olives.

At the table, we enjoyed a first course of individual leek and mascarpone tartlets, but I forgot to take a picture!

Beaune Boucherottes Premier Cru 2012 made from 100% Pinot Noir. ”Les Boucherottes” is a premier cru vineyard at the southern edge of Beaune, bordering Pommard, with deep clay soils adding lushness and power.  2012 was a high-quality, small-yield vintage in Burgundy, known for concentrated wines. This is a serious wine with hints of dark cherry, raspberries , strawberry, and a touch of leather. This wine will last for a number of years.

Perfectly cooked prime rib of beef was the star of the evening, accompanied by sauteed mushrooms, green beans, and potato gratin.

Roast ready to serve.  Tom carved it to order.

On the plate

Grignolino delle Langhe 1979 Cavallotto Made from 100% Grignolino.

In 2017 I tasted Grignolino of the Monferrato Casalese “Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie “ 2011 Giulio Accornero & Figli made from 100% Grignolino  at the home of wine writer Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine. Most Grignolino is meant to be drunk young, within one or two years of production, so I was surprised at how well this wine had held up and I really enjoyed it.

The 1979 vintage Grignolino that Tom served was further proof that Grignolino can age.  With its spicy notes, and flavor of raspberries, pomegranate, rhubarb and a touch of smoke it was a revelation. An amazing wine!!

 

A selection of cheeses to savor with the Barolo

Barolo 2004 Marchese di Barolo  Nebbiolo grapes coming from the best crus of the municipality of Barolo. Grapes harvested in Cannubi, Sarmassa, Coste di Rose, Vignane, Preda, Boschetti and Ravera contribute to the production of the wine. The soil is rich in clay with some silt, sand and limestone. Harvested by hand, a selection of the best bunches is made in the vineyard. Each cru is vinified separately: the destemmed and pressed grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel fermenters. The maceration on the skins lasts approximately 15 days during which pumping the must over the pomace cap favors maximum extraction of the polyphenolic substances contained within the skin.  After malolactic fermentation, the individual wines obtained from the different crus are blended. The refinement of Barolo from the municipality of Barolo lasts approximately 2 years, of which the first year half of the volume is stored in small French oak barrels and the remaining half in 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels; while the second year the entire volume is brought together and the maturation ends in large traditional Slavonian oak barrels.  The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, raspberry, roses, violets, licorice and a touch of leather

Michele provided one of the desserts, a pear and almond tart.

Diane’s Christmas Cookie selection included Toll House, Peanut Butter, Granadinas and Ciambellini al Vino.

Thanks to Tom and Diane for another wonderful Christmas dinner.

Happy New Year!

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July 1, 2024 · 1:41 am

Red Burgundy Wines of Maison Louis Latour

Here is the second part of my notes on the tasting I attended featuring the wines of Maison Louis Latour.  The theme was Summer in Burgundy and the introduction of the 2022 vintage.

I spoke to Eléanore Latour, the Vice President about the 2022 vintage in Burgundy. She said both the whites and the reds hold a pleasant freshness as the grapes benefited from the right degree of ripeness. The well structured whites reached the perfect balance between acidity and concentration. The reds reveal fruity and spicy notes with silky tannins and the finish is elegant.  The wines are well balanced, fruity, concentrated and will age nicely. The vineyards held up remarkably well against the  summer heat, which contributed to the juiciness of the grapes without drying them. This vintage will be remembered as one of the best.

I also spoke with Florent Latour the CEO of Maison Louis Latour about the wines and Burgundy in general.

On average the vines are 35 years old and 2% of the vines are renewed every year. They safeguard traditional practices such as the use of horses for ploughing. No insecticides, weed killer, or chemical fertilizer are used.

The result of a long history, Burgundy and its wines are known worldwide. Pinot Noir is a native grape variety of the area. Bourgogne Pinot Noir is the regional appellation whose wines can come from any part of Burgundy.Last week, I wrote about the white wines of Maison Louis Latour.  Here is my my impression of the reds.  All of the red wines are 100% Pinot Noir.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022 Region Bourgogne.  This wine exhibits the characteristics of the great Burgundy reds.  The average age of the vines is 25 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are hand picked. Traditional fermentation in open vats. Aging is for 10 to 12 months in stainless steel vats. The wine has hints of cherry, spice, licorice and red currants. The wine should be drunk within 5 years but could last longer. $25

Region: Côte Beaune

Marsannay 2020. Marsannay is the village which marks the northern gateway to the Côte d’Or when leaving Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, and home to the Ducs de Bourgogne. This village marks the beginning of the Route des Grands Crus which follows the N6 highway through the Côte d’Or. Wines from Marsannay are generally lively and robust; characteristics that come from the rich iron soil. Marsannay received its Appellation Contrôlée in 1987 in recognition of its consistently high quality wine. The average age of the vines is 10 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are hand picked. Traditional fermentation in open vats with complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is in stainless steel vats for 10 to 12 months. The wine has hints of blueberries, cherries, strawberries and a touch of spice. This wine is approachable now and I liked it as soon as I tasted it. However it will get even better in a few more years. $42

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Domaine Latour 2021.  Aloxe-Corton has been the home of the Latour family and the heart of Domaine Louis Latour for centuries. The village of Aloxe-Corton is located in the north of Côte de Beaune on a stony hillside at the foot of the hill of Corton.  The name of the climat Corton was added to the village name Aloxe in 1862. The vineyards of Domaine Louis Latour surround this famous village and yield a classic Aloxe-Corton. The average age of the vines is 30 years and the soil is limestone, alluvial sand and gravel. The grapes are hand harvested. Traditional fermentation takes place in open vats. Aging is in oak barrels 15% new for 10 to 12 months. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toasted. The wine has hints of cherry, cassis, licorice, spice and a touch of blueberries. $75. It will last but it is drinking very well right now.

Beaune 1er Cru “Vignes Franches” 2020.  Historically the owners of this area did not have to pay tax on the land, hence the name “Vignes Franches” meaning free vines. The Beaune Premier Cru “Vignes Franches” parcel, an important part of Domaine Louis Latour, is found mid-slope. The clay soils are scattered with small pebbles which allows for easy drainage of water. It has the same opulence as in neighboring Pommard, as well as an extremely pleasant fruit-forwardness even when young. It is one of the best Premier Cru vineyards of Beaune, producing a wine that is capable of aging to perfection for a considerable period of time. Average age of the vines is 35 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation in traditional open vats with complete malolactic fermentation. Aging in oak barrels 25% new. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toast. The wine has hints of black cherry, rhubarb, currants, with  a touch of rosemary and a note of violets.  This is a structured wine that will age.

Pommard 1er Cru “Epnots” 2018.   The village of Pommard is comfortably sandwiched between the town of Beaune and the village of Volnay. In contrast to the wines of its close neighbors, those of Pommard tend to be fuller, more tannic and expansive in the mouth, similar to those of the Côte de Nuits. This area was named “Epenots”, coming from “épine” (thorn or prickle), as a result of the natural vegetation of the area which was bush-like and thorny. The “Epenots” is solid and firm in its youth and needs time to mature and mellow out before revealing its full glory. The average age of the wines is 30 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Traditional fermentation in open tanks. Aging in oak barrels, 35% new for 10 to 12 months. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toast. The wine has hints of blackberry, plum, cherry, coffee, spice. This is a very impressive wine and will age for 10 years and more. $142

Château Corton Gracey Grand Cru 2019.  “Grancey” was the name of the last owners of the chateau situated on the road of Corton, before the Latour family bought it in 1891. This wine is unique and exclusive. It is a blend of five areas of Domaine Latour Corton Grand Cru: Bressandes, Perrières, Grèves, Clos du Roi and Chaumes, the proportions of which vary depending on the vintage. The average age of the vines is over 40 years. After aging individually, only the best barrels are assembled to create the Château Corton Grancey. It is a wine that is produced only if the grapes are of a perfect maturity.  Vintages judged inferior are systematically declassified. The average age of the vines is 40 years and the soil is marl and limestone. Hand harvested. Traditional fermentation in open vats. Aging in oak barrels 35 %new for 10 t0 12 months. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toast. The wine has hints of cherry, strawberry red currants, subtly spiced with a touch of jasmine. The wine will age for another 10 to 15 years or more. It is an outstanding red Burgundy and I am very happy I was able to taste it. $190

Note: In 1997, Maison Louis Latour celebrated its bicentennial and was admitted to the Henokiens Club, select circle of companies that have remained in founding family ownership for at least 200 years and still bear the name of their founder.

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June 27, 2024 · 1:41 am

Tasting the White Wines of Maison Louis Latour

Maison Louis Latour is a wine company with a very long history.  Founded in 1797, the owners have made it a point of honor to remain independent and family owned. The current head of the company is Florent Latour, Chief Executive Officer.

In keeping with tradition Mr. Latour prepares the next generation to take over.

Eléonore Latour started her training as the 12 generation during the  2023 harvest under the guidance of her uncle Florent.  She is now the Vice President. I discussed the 2022 vintage with Eléonore but this will have to wait until Part II “The Red Wines.”

Domaine Louis Latour covers 48 hectare of vineyards from the red Grand Cru of Chambertin and Romané-Saint Vivant in the Côte de Nuits to the white Grand Cru of Croton-Charlemagne and Chevalier-Montrachet in the Côte de Beaune. Today Louis Latour’s vineyards represent the largest holdings of Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy.

At the tasting, it was mentioned that the company produces its own oak barrels in their cooperage.  Each one is a piece of fine craftsmanship, made from high quality French oak. The staves are seasoned slowly in the open air exposed to the elements over 36 months.

The White Wines

Pernan-Vergelesses 1er cru “En Caradeux” 2022 made from 100% Chardonnay. The village of Pernand-Vergelesses is located just 3km from Aloxe-Corton, and of all the villages that the Grand Cru hill of Corton looks over, this is the most picturesque. The parcel “En Caradeux,” located mid-slope and exposed to the East, faces the hill of Corton. These vines are worked traditionally by the winemakers of Domaine Louis Latour. The soil is stony and the basement is composed of marl and flint limestone which gives a typical particularity of this terroir. Soil is clay and limestone and the average age of the vines is 25 years.  Grapes are hand picked. Complete malolactic fermentation takes place in traditional oak barrels. The wine is aged 8 to 10 months in oak barrels 25% new. Barrels are from Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium roasted. Hints of acacia, almonds, hint of smoke, silky texture, citrus fruit and a hint of apple. $67

Meursault 2022 made from 100% Chardonnay.  Situated just south of Volnay and Pommard in the Côte de Beaune, Meursault is the most extensive southerly white wine commune of the Côte-d’Or. The perfect southeastern exposure and the stony, marl soil contribute greatly to the remarkable finesse of which the wines of Meursault are capable. Typical Meursault tend to be very full, mellow wines and mature somewhat sooner than the wines from the neighboring communes of Puligny and Chassagne. Soil is marl and limestone and the average age of the vines is 25 years. Hand harvested. There is complete malolactic fermentation in traditional oak barrels and the wine is aged 8 to 10 months in oak barrels of which 15% are new.  The wine has hints of yellow peach, ripe citrus fruit  toasted almond with a touch of spice. $97

Mâcon-Lugny “Les Genièvres” 2021 made from 100% Chardonnay. The village of Lugny is located high up in the south of the Mâcon region. It has a great reputation for its white wines, which has made Mâcon famous. It is well known that the village of Lugny, with its limestone soils and warm climate, produces the most coveted white wines of the region. The vineyard of “Les Genièvres” is one of the best. Maison Louis Latour selects the best grapes of this village, which thanks to its terroir, was the only village planted with Chardonnay 30 years ago. The average age of the vines is 30 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Harvest is mechanical. Traditional fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel vats with complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is for 8 to 10 months in stainless steel vats. The wine has hints of honeysuckle, citrus, apples a hint of pineapple and nutty notes. It is a wine to be drunk young. $23

Pouilly-Fuissè 2020  made from 100% Chardonnay.  Pouilly-Fuissé is the name of a village in the Mâconnais producing highly distinctive Chardonnay wine. The vineyards producing this wine are part of a breathtaking landscape where the limestone and heavy clay soils combine to create a unique terroir. The vines are over 30 years old and the soil is limestone and heavy clay. Harvest is manual. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with complete malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 8 to 10 months in stainless steel vats. The wine has hints of yellow fruit, pear  peach, honeysuckle and apricot. Should be drunk within the next few years. $36

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Sous Le Puits” 2020 made from 100% Chardonnay. Home of some of the world’s most extraordinary Chardonnays including the famous Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet is the geographical middleman of the white wine villages, bordered by Meursault to the north and by Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. The vineyard of Puligny-Montrachet “Sous les Puits” has a southeasterly exposure and is situated at the top of the hill of Blagny, just above “La Garenne,” near a spring, hence the name of “Sous le Puits” (Under the Well). The average age of the vines is 35 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are picked by hand. Traditional fermentation in oak barrels with complete malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 8 to 10 months in oak barrels of which 50% are new. Louis Latour cooperage, French Oak medium toasted. The wine has hints of citrus, pear, apple, butterscotch, with a touch of honey and a subtle and long finish.  This wine will age for ten years of more. It is a very impressive wine. $135

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2018 made from 100% Chardonnay. After the ravages of the phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19th century, the Latour family took the then unusual decision to tear up the dead Aligoté and Pinot Noir vines, and replace them with Chardonnay. This decision lead them to create one of Burgundy’s most celebrated white whites.
Today the Latour family owns 10.5 hectares which makes them the biggest owner in the appellation. The Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne vineyards are located on a prime section of the Corton hillside where the southeasterly aspect ensures maximum exposure to the sun. The fruit is harvested as late as possible to guarantee maximum ripeness. The soil is lime stone and the average age of the vines is 30 years. The grapes are handpicked as late as possible for maximum ripeness. Traditional fermentation is oak barrels with complete malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 8 to 10 months in 100% new oak barrels. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toasted. 2018 was an excellent vintage for these white Burgundy wines. This is a complex and full bodied wine with hints of honeysuckle, apples, mangoes, white peaches, a note of banana and a touch of hazelnuts. It has a very long finish and a wonderful aftertaste. This is an exceptional wine and was rated very highly by everyone. This wine can age but is drinking very nicely now. $229

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June 13, 2022 · 1:30 am

The League of Gentle Men Dine at Nice Matin

The League of Gentle Men, an invitation-only wine group of which I am a proud member, held their latest dinner at Restaurant Nice Matin.  The restaurant, located on Manhattan’s Upper West Side at the base of the Lucerne Hotel, is a 25-year-old French bistro.  Eric Starkman, the Chef, came on board last fall after many years of experience at top kitchens around the country, including Alinea in Chicago and Townsend in Philadelphia.  Eric prepared the Spring Tasting Menu for our group and the club members brought bottles of their own choosing.

The first course was Alsatian White Asparagus Soup, Ramp Cappelletti, Charred Ramps, and Chive Oil. After tasting it, I knew we were going to have an exceptional dinner, but I was so engrossed in eating it, I forgot to take a photo.  Eric came out and spoke about each course.

We started with Champagne.  Note that a few of the club members made comments in this report.

brutPhilipponnat “Les Cintres” 2008  Extra Brut made from 100% Pinot Noir. First press juice from the central plots: Les Grands Cinders and Les Petits Cintres in Clos des Goisses, Mareuil-sur-Ay. Vinification using traditional methods to avoid premature oxidation, with no malolactic formation. All the wines are fermented in casks. Extra brut dosage of 4.5g/litre.

The wine is aged for more than 9 years at a controlled temperature of 12C to develop maximum complexity and to highlight the wine’s secondary and tertiary aromas which is the hallmark of extended aging on the lees. This is a powerful and elegant Champagne with hints of citrus fruit, white peach a touch of red fruit, a note of brioche and a very long finish.

IMG_7502 2Chateau Haut-Brion 2005 made from 52% Sauvignon Blanc and 48% Sémillon from a little less than 3 hectare plot. 2005 was a great vintage similar to the legendary vintage of 1949. Conditions were so perfect that the vines were able to produce small grapes of an extraordinary concentration that were harvested in perfect condition. Fermentation is done in oak barrels for a period of 9 to 12 months of which 50% of the barrels are new. This is a complex, layered and intense wine with hints of grapefruit, peach, orange blossom, a touch of chamomile and a note of dried flowers. It is a wine of pure richness and depth, finishing with incredible length. This is the first time I have tasted this wine and I was totally impressed!!

IMG_7499Volnay 1er Cru 2013 Hospices de Beaune made from 100% Pinot Noir  from  Cuvée Général-Muteau.  This is an elegant wine with hints of wild berries, cherries and dark fruit. It was drinking very nicely now but it will age for many years. Two of the members had purchased the barrel at the Hospices de Beaune auction.

Member Frank Butler said, “My contributions were the 1970 Haut Brion (red) which drank well, and the 2013 Volnay (brought by my compatriot Joseph) which was from a barrel that we purchased from the auction at the Hospice de Beaune. It drank “okay” – as in very acceptable but nothing stellar.”

IMG_7488Local Green Asparagus & Coppa dressed with lemon, black pepper, Parmesan, and olive oil

IMG_7500 2Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2001 Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair from 25 to 75 year old vines in clay and limestone soil. There is 3 days cold maceration followed by alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature. The vatting time is between 2 and 3 weeks. The wine is aged in new barrels for 18 months. This is a wine that has great length with hints of blackcurrant, blackberries, violets and a note of red berries.

IMG_7490Spaghetti à la Marseilles — pasta with a sauce of crab, mussels, prawns, tomato, saffron and white wine

IMG_7493 2Chambertin 2002 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils made from 100% Pinot Noir. Manual harvest in small crates followed by an intense sorting of the grapes. There is a total or partial destemming depending on the vintage. After a gentle pressing fermentation is in small containers. Vatting is for 12 to 15 days and aging for 10 to 18 months in French oak barrels with 60 to 85% new.

IMG_7491Duet of Lamb–grilled marinated lamb tack, Merguez, carrot puree, chanterelles, favas, lamb jus.

IMG_7494Chateau Haut-Brion 1970 made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a lesser amount of Cabernet Franc. This is a full bodied elegant wine with hints of  black fruit, black cherries, plum, tobacco, cedar and a long finish.  It was drinking very nicely for a 52-year-old wine.

IMG_7497Duca Enrico IGT 1986 Duca di Salaparuta (Corvo) made from 100% Nero d’Avola grapes grown in South Central Sicily. Soil is a mixture of calcareous-siliceous composition. The vineyard is at 200/300 meters and the vines are bush trained.  There are at least 5,000 plants per hectare. Grapes are hand picked at full ripening and then destemmed. Maceration at 28/30 degrees for 8/10 hours followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in oak casks for 18 months and then 18 months in bottle before release. First vintage was 1984 and it was the first 100% Nero d’Avola to be bottled in Sicily. The wine has hints of ripe dark-skinned fruit, blackberry jam, ripe black cherry, a hint of leather and a note of licorice. For a wine 36-years-old, it was not showing any real signs of age. This was my contribution.

Napa Valley 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Robert Mondavi– there was a discussion about this wine and for some reason I did not get to taste it.

Recioto della Amarone 1971 Bertani – Bertani is one of my favorite producers but this bottle was off and I believe it was corked.

Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg 2001 Auslese 8.5% abv  One of the best vineyards in the world and in sole possession of one of the best wine estates in the world is the Karthäuserhofberg. The imposing vineyard, once farmed by the Carthusian monks, has an outstanding terroir and was already classified in the old Prussian tax maps as a particularly high-quality vineyard. The Devonian gray slate, often colored red, already points to the high iron content of the soil at first glance. The Karthäuserhofberg is about 20 ha in size and rises up to 254 meters above sea level. The unique microclimate, just before the confluence of the Ruwer in the Mosel, along with the slate soil, make it a paradise for the production of top Rieslings.

Very soft, heat-storing slate release ferrous, salty minerals through constant weathering. In addition, the topsoil has both finely weathered slate and loess for retaining water in periods of drought. The south- to southwest-facing slope with an incline of up to 45 percent is ideal for an optimal ripening of Riesling grapes. Each year, the wines show a very refreshing minerality and an enormous aging potential.

The class of the wines from this great Riesling vineyard has been proven by numerous awards over centuries and its large international fan base.

At the instigation of the Prussian government, the vineyard sites of the Saar and Mosel (the latter included the Ruwer) were classified as early as 1868. Even at this time, Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg was ranked in the top category. Written and contributed by Joseph D’ Ambrosio

Dessert

IMG_7503Blackberry Sorbet with toasted honey oats

IMG_7504Rhubarb Gateau, Vanilla Creme Anglaise, Cherry ice cream

unnamed Nice MartinAll of the wines all in a row with some of the members.

The meal was superb and so were the wines.  I look forward to returning to Nice Matin again with Michele.

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January 7, 2021 · 3:20 am

A Post-Christmas Dinner

The spirit of Christmas lasts longer than 12 days at our house so we decided to invite a friend over to commemorate a meal we had shared last year in Beaune, France.  The menu was simple.  Our friend loves roast chicken and Michele had a slightly different roasting technique she wanted to try.   Our friend brought the Burgundy wine.

IMG_4029We started with chicken livers with onions on crostini.  A drizzle of high quality balsamic vinegar and sprinkle of flaky salt really enhanced the flavor.

IMG_4031On the plate

IMG_4046Meursault – Perrieres 1995 Robert Amprau et Fils Located in the Puligny – Montrachet region of Burgundy covering 10 hectares of vineyards. They harvest by machine and allow other plants to grow between the rows of vines. The wines are not released by the winery until they are ready to drink. The wines are fermented without stalks in cement cuvees and aged in barriques, mostly used for 10 months. The wine has hints of ripe fruit, honey, apricot, nuts and a touch of brioche. The wine is at its peak.

IMG_4033For extra crispy skin, Michele first butterflied the chicken, then left it uncovered in the refrigerator overnight so that the skin was very dry.  The result was great.  Moist meat and crispy skin.

IMG_4035Broccoli rabe with garlic

IMG_4036Mashed Potatoes with lots of butter

IMG_4037It was a simple meal, just what we wanted after the holiday feasting.

IMG_4045The wine Volany-Lantenots 1999 Robert Ampeau et Fils made from 100% Pinot Noir. This Premier cru, is actually located in Meursault, is sold as Volnay.  This is a complex wine with dark ripe fruit aromas and flavors, hints of strawberries, cherries, currents, plum and a touch of spice. It is a very impressive Burgundy.

IMG_4039A bloomy rind French cheese, the name of which I cannot recall, was all we needed to finish the wine.

IMG_4043We enjoyed slices of pannetone for dessert.

IMG_4044Followed by just a small glass of Vieil Armagnac 1983

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August 27, 2020 · 1:04 am

The Celebration Continues

We had a few friends over for my birthday lunch on the 24th and for a change we had a French themed menu.  Because  it  was  such  a hot  day,  Michele  had  planned  a meal  that  could  be  served  at  room  temperature.

We started with bite size cubes of melon wrapped in prosciutto and with it we had Alfred Gratien Brut Rosè NV made from 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 15% . The Pinot Noir is added as a still wine. After 6 months of cellaring in 228 liter oak casks, the must is transformed into wine. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The cuvee is bottled with sugar and yeast to allow for a secondary fermentation in the bottle and it remains in the cellar for 36 months. Then the disgorging takes place where the lees and sediment are removed from the bottle which is topped up with more wine and some sugar and left to rest for a few more months in the cellar.  It has good red fruit with hints of raspberry and strawberries and touch of roses.

The next course was a lobster salad  with  avocado,  tomato, bacon,  arugula  and  a tarragon  vinaigrette.

To go with it we had Meursault 2002 Robert Ampeau & Fils 100% Chardonnay. Located in the Puligny – Montrachet region of Burgundy covering 10 hectares of vineyards. The harvest is by machine and this allows other plants to grow between the rows of vines. The wines are not released by the winery until they feel they are ready to drink. The wines are fermented without stalks in cement cuvees and aged in barriques, mostly used for 10 months. The wine has hints of honey, citrus fruit and nuts with mineral notes and good acidity.

Green beans were served at room temperature with Salsa Verde, a green sauce made with parsley, garlic, capers, anchovies and olive oil.

Rare roasted fillet mignon was the main dish.

The beef, with green sauce, green beans and a simple potato and scallion salad on the plate.

 

Chambolle Musigny 2005 Nicolas Petel made from 100% Pinot Noir . There is a selection of grapes to eliminate unwanted grapes and to evaluate precisely the quality of the harvest. They taste the cuvees twice or three times a day to follow their aromatic evolution. The grapes are softly pressed in a vertical wine press and the liquid is allowed to settle before going into the barrels. With a minimum of interference the must is left to settle for 12 to 16 months on the lees without racking and a minimum of SO2. There is a late malolactic fermentation. The wine is drawn off just before racking and blended in vats so it will have the same uniformity in the barrel. Old fashion racking where the wine is drawn off by the Broquereau where the opening is at the end of the barrel by a funnel. The wine “moves” without the aid of a pumps.  The wine is separated from the lees and this is important for the non filtration. They follow the biodynamic calendar. The wine has hints of cherry and raspberry with a touch of violets and a note of licorice.

For dessert, our friend had prepared a perfect blueberry  tart.  The  crust  was  crisp  and  buttery.

The grand finale — blueberry tart with vanilla ice cream.  A wonderful birthday lunch with good friends.

 

 

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August 10, 2020 · 1:25 am

BBQ on a Summer Afternoon

I have never been good cooking on a bbq grill, but I do enjoy eating foods that have been grilled for me.  So I was  delighted  when friends  offered  to  prepare  a  bbq grilled  lunch.  What’s more, all of the meats and produce they would be cooking were sourced from local New Jersey farms.  Short of growing it myself, it would be hard to get anything fresher.

Suenen Champagne Oiry Blancs De Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut made from 100% Chardonnay from the Grand Cru village of Cramant. The soil is chalk. The vins clairs (clear wines) are fermented partially in barrel and spend 9 months on the lees. The dosage is 2g/L. This is a delicate dry wine with floral aromatics, hints of green apple, a note of yellow plums and a touch of lemon with high acidity.

At the grill

Fresh zucchini on the grill

Corn on the grill

Shucking the corn

Super sweet corn grilled in the husk then shucked

Chorey-Les- Beaune 2016 “Les Beaumonts” Domaine Michel Mallard made from 100% Pinot Noir. The cuvee is produced at Les Beaumonts which faces southwest. The soil is heavy with a clayey limestone texture, with moderate stone content and good drainage. The vines are 50 and 55 years old. The grapes are sorted in the winery. Destemmed grapes and whole clusters are stacked in stainless steel vats or wooden casks. After about a week of maceration, fermentation begins. First the punching of the cap to gently extract liquids and later pumping over to adjust the tannin structure of the wine. The wine is then drawn off and some of the pressed grapes are added to the juice. The juice is then placed in French oak barrels. The wine is aged in 228 Burgundian oak turns 30% new from the forests of Allier and Vosges for 12 months. The wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, and blackberry. It was drinking well now but can last for many years.

Hot and sweet pork sausage, and herb marinated chicken on the grill

On the plate

Côtep Rotie 2001 Domaine Jamet made from 100% Syrah from 20 different parcels. Soil consists of various types of schist. Whole bunches are fermented and maceration lasts for about 3 weeks. The wine is aged for 22 months in barrels 15% are new. This is a wine that can age for 25 years. It is a medium bodied wine with hints of red fruit, black olive, kirsch, black pepper a touch of smoke, and a note of camphor. I was very impressed with this wine.

The burgers

Ready to eat

Sweet Cherry Tomato Salad with Basil and Pine Nuts

 

Dinner is served.  All  of  the  meats  were  from  River  Bend  Farm  in  Far  Hills,  NJ.

The meats were succulent and the vegetables fresh and sweet.

Gigondas 2016 “Confidentiel” La Domaine MonTiriua made from 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre from 10 hectares of 3 different parcels. Average age of vines is 75/85 years. The soil is Garrigues (plain soil) blue clayey sand and sandstone marl and yellow sand and sandstone. Pruning method is goblet or royat and cordon pruning with a maximum of 6 spurs and 2 buds. Harvest is manual. Traditional winemaking takes place, total destemming, light crushing, natural indigenous grape yeast. The wine is aged in cement vats for two winters then in bottle (no oak).  This is a big bold wine with hints of black fruit, violets and a touch of licorice. It is an impressive wine but needs another 5 years before it will be ready to drink.

We finished the wine with four excellent New Jersey cheeses  from  Valley  Shepherd Creamery.  There  was  a Crotin Goat, Smokey  Shepherd, Crema  di Blu and Valley Thunder.

It was quite a feast, but a slice of a lightly spiced and not too sweet zucchini bread was a welcome finale.

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July 30, 2020 · 2:16 am

Falanghina and Calamari – Burgundy and Quail

Several years ago in Napoli, Michele had a pasta with a calamari sauce served with calamari shaped pasta.  It’s not an easy pasta shape to come by, so when she saw a bag in an Italian market, she bought it.  This weekend she made her version of the dish.

Calamari  in  Cherry  Tomato  Sauce

It’s a very simple recipe.  Oil, garlic, parsley, a little peperoncino then a can of cherry tomatoes and a little water.  Simmer until thickened. 

Calamari  shaped  pasta  was  nice  and  chewy.  We  ate  the  pasta  with  a Falanghina.

 

Falanghina del Sarnnio DOP 2018 made from 1oo% Falanghina Fontana Vecchia The vineyard is at 350 meters and the soil is argillaceous with lime rich marlstone outcrops. The training system is guyot and harvest is the third part of September. There is a direct pressing of the grapes at a controlled temperature. Fermentation lasts for 7 days. The wine is aged in steel before it is bottled. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, lime with a touch of green apple.

A friend came by for dinner on Sunday.  Michele made a favorite summer salad, Green Beans with Potatoes, Red Onion Oregano and Capers. 

With the salad we had Grilled Quail  Marinated  with  Lemon  and  Herbs.

Quail

Chambolle Musigny 2005 Nicolas Petel made from 100% Pinot Noir . There is a selection of grapes to eliminate unwanted grapes and to evaluate precisely the quality of the harvest. They taste the cuvees twice or three times a day to follow their aromatic evolution. The grapes are softly pressed in a vertical wine press and the liquid is allowed to settle before going in to the barrels. With a minimum of interference the must is left to settle for 12 to 16 months on the lees without racking and a minimum of SO2. There is a late malolactic fermentation. The wine is drawn off just before racking and blended in vats so it will have the same uniformity in the barrel. Old fashion racking where the wine is drawn off by the Broquereau where the opening is at the end of the barrel by a funnel. The wine “moves” without the aid of a pumps.  The wine is separated from the lees and this is important for the non filtration. They follow the biodynamic calendar. The wine has hints of cherry and raspberry with a touch of violets and a note of licorice.

Dessert was a platter of watermelon and cherries, refreshing on a hot summer day.

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December 30, 2019 · 3:04 am

Another Wonderful Christmas Dinner with Tom & Diane

It has become a tradition  now  for a number of years that Michele and I trade holiday meals with Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow.  Tom is a wine and food writer and Diane is a food writer and they both have excellent blogs.  We do Thanksgiving and they do Christmas.

As always we started with Champagne. Champagne Aubry Brut Premier Cru NV Aubry Fils made from 55% Pinot Meunier, 25% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 5% Arbanne and Petit Meslier ad Fromenteau. The assemblage is 50% base with 50% perpetual reserve dating back to 1998. The vineyard/ village: Jouy-les-Reims and Villadommange 1er Cru. It has hints of white flowers, green apple, lemon and a hint of toast.

With the Champagne we had  two little pastries, gougeres  flavored  with  prosciutto  and  cheese  and  pastry  pinwheels  filled  with  liver  pate.

Coullee de Serrant 2003 Nicolas Joly made from 100% Chenin Blanc from a seven hectare vineyard from old vines located on very steep slopes dominating the Loire Valley. Cultivation is by horse or hand. The grape harvest is done 5 times over a 3 to 4 week period to obtain the most colored, mature and the most grapes marked by botrytis. The wine is aged in 500 liter barrels, with never more than 5% new wood. The winery is biodynamic. The wine is bottled with a light filtration, no fining and a low amount of sulfur. The wine was showing its age but very drinkable with hints of passion fruit and honey.

With the white wine we had  baked crepes  filled  with bechamel,  gruyere  and  ham.  

Domaine Henri Georges Nuits St Georges 2003 made from 100% Pinot Noir. This is a complex wine with hints of dark red fruit, plum and blueberries, it was drinking very well and showing no signs of decline.

With this wine we had  a prime  rib roast which  was  perfectly  cooked.

The  beef  was  accompanied  by  green  beans  with  onions  and  a shiitake  and  potato  gratin.

Barolo 1989 “ Cannubi” Prunotto made from 100% Nebbiolo. !989 was a exceptional vintage for Barolo. The legendary Beppe Cola made this wine before he sold the winery to Antinori. This is classic Barolo at its best with hints of cherry, blueberry, licorice, and a touch of spice. A great wine in a great year!

A variety of cheeses to finish the wine.

 

The Chocolate Grappa Cake Michele brought for our dessert was a recipe that she had developed for an article in Gourmet Magazine some years ago.  Diane supplied the delicious cookies, peanut butter, chocolate chip and nut snowballs.

It was another wonderful holiday meal.  I hope you all ate and drank as well as we did.  Happy New Year!

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October 28, 2019 · 2:20 am

Michel Mallard et Fils: A Burgundy Wine Family

Michele and I visited Beaune two years ago and had such a wonderful time that we decided to return. We wanted to visit some wineries but since it was harvest time it was difficult to get appointments. We were traveling with a friend who suggested we visit Domaine Michel Mallard et Fils because he really likes their wines. Somehow he was able to arrange an appointment.

The winery is a short taxi ride from the town of Beaune.

We were welcomed at the winery by Maryse and Patrick Mallard and their son Michel, now the fifth generation of this father to son winery.

The winery is located in the commune of Ladoix-Serrigny a small village between the Côte de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. The domaine works 11 hectares of vineyards on and around the hill of Corton.

Charles and Michel -Photo credit E. DeSalvo

Michel Mallard took us to the cellars to taste the wines.

What followed was a master class on his wines and the wines of Burgundy in general.

As many of the new and enlightened generation of Burgundy vignerons, Michel believes that great wine begins in the vineyard where he works to conserve and improve the life of the soil by using grass coverage, organic composts and controlled treatments only when absolutely necessary. In order to get the right balance between sweetness and acidity, they limit the amount of grapes produced by each vine. Plants that start to grow wild are thinned, tidied, aligned and cropped to allow more air and light through their foliage. The grapes with the optimal balance and maturity are hand harvested and sorted.

At the winery the white grapes are treaded and gently pressed in a pneumatic press. Crushing is avoided and they prefer to obtain free run juice at low pressure which is then clarified by the force of gravity alone. Some of the juice is drawn off into stainless steel vats, and the rest is placed in French oak barrels. Fermentation begins by the activation of the indigenous yeast. Beginning in 2016 Michel began vinifying with no added sulfur.

The White Wines we tasted…

Ladoix Blanc 2017 made from 100% Chardonnay. The vines grow at the bottom of the hill on the climes (vineyards) Madones and La Vigne Adaim, with a southeastern exposure. The vines are 10 years old. The soil is very heavy with a clayey texture from the weathering of the geological formation of Bresse maristone deposits. Michel said the high clay content and its position at the foot of the slope allow the soil to receive a good supply of water.

The barrels are made using wood from the Allier and Vosges forests. The wine is aged 12 months in 30% new wood casks (228 Burgundian barrels). The wine has aromas and flavors of white fruit with hints of pear and lemon and a touch of spice.

Landoix 1er Cru Les Gréchons 2016 made from 100% Chardonnay from vines between 40 and 50 years old.

This climat is located in the commune of Ladoix-Serrigny. The term Gréchons comes from the word Grève, from the Latin grava meaning sand or gravel. The soil is composed of friable rock, fine scree, sand and gravel and is a great terroir for cultivating vines.

The wine is aged for 15 months in 50% new wood casks.

This wine has hints of peach, pear, citrus fruits and a touch of hazelnuts.

The Red Wines we tasted…

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru La Toppe Au Vert 2017 made from 100% Pinot Noir from vines between 40 and 50 years old. Located in Ladoix-Serrigny, La Toppe au Vert extends over Corton’s northeastern slopes (with southeastern exposure) and sits just below Grand Cru vineyards on the Corton hill. The term Toppe or Teppe is a pre –Latin origin and refers to a land on a hillside that enjoys good exposure: a land left fallow waiting the planting of the vines. Vert, originally Vers, means steep terrain in the Burundian dialect.

The soil is heavy with clay and moderate stone content. The soil composition comes from the weathering of thin deposits from the formation of Combianchien limestone.

Michel said this type of soil causes the vine’s network of roots to spread out horizontally near the top of the surface.

At harvest unhealthy grapes are removed, are destemmed and whole clusters are stacked in stainless steel vats or wooden casks.

Michel said they do not like to interfere too much in the wine cellar and prefer nature to take its course and produce its own vintage. After about a week of maceration, the fermentation process begins. At the beginning they do punching down of the cap, to gently extract the liquids, and at the end of fermentation, pumping over to adjust the tannic structure of the wine. The wine is then drawn off and some of the pressed grapes are added to the juice. Once assembled, the cuvee is placed in French oak barrels. The wine is aged for 15 months in 60% new oak casks (228 Burgundian). This is a wine meant to be aged for many years with a floral bouquet, hints of red fruit, cherries,clove and spice. It represents perhaps the best value in the Mallard Cellar as it is preciously close in quality to his Grand Cru wines at a fraction of the price.

Corton Grand Cru “Les Renardes” 2013 made from 100% Pinot Noir from vines between 50 and 55 years old. At the heart of the hillside, the parcel Les Renardes flourishes on the southeastern flank of the commune of Aloxe-Corton. Renardes means vixens, indicating the presence of numerous dens of foxes living in the area, or it just may be the name of the original climat’s owner.

Shallow soil, with clay and moderate stone content, from the weathering of colitic and bioclastic limestone (skeleton remains of living organisms) from the formation of limestone deposits in Ladoix. These limestone deposits split into slabs a few centimeters thick, allowing the roots to penetrate the soil more deeply. The wine is aged for 16 to 18 months in 70% new wood casks, 228L. This is a wine with hints of blueberry, red currants, a touch of black pepper, licorice and subtle meat and game notes.

Michel asked if we would like to taste anything else. I asked him if he had the 2007 vintage of this wine. 2007 is a vintage for Red Burgundy that is drinking particularly well right now. Michel obliged and opened a bottle. It was fantastic and has all the qualities of great Burgundy. Michel was kind enough to give us the open bottle to take back to the hotel with us. We drank it a few days later and it was still fantastic.

Michel Mallard produces: Côte de Nuits-Villages, Chorey-les-Beaune, Savigny-les-Beaune, Ladoix, Aloxe-Corton, Corton and Corton-Charlemagne.

In the United States Michel’s wines can be difficult to find.  My friend who had introduced me to these wines told me that Amanti Vino in New Jersey carries much of the Mallard range https://www.amantivino.com/

Since these wines sell quickly, if you do not see them on the website, you can email info@amantivino.com and let them know that you want to be alerted the next time they do an offering of Michel Mallard’s wine.

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