Category Archives: Varvaglione Dal 1921

North to South: Italian Reds from the Dolomites, Tuscany and Puglia

Italian red wines are wonderfully diverse, with flavor, texture and personality shaped by their regions. From the crisp, mountain-influenced Trentino in the north, to the refined elegance of Tuscany in central Italy and the bold, sun-soaked richness of Puglia in the south, these three wines offer a snapshot of how place shapes style.

Mezzacorona Dinotte Red Blend Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 2022  made from Teroldego, Marzemino and Merlot grapes.  For over 120 years, Mezzacorona has expressed the character of Trentino through its wines and Dinotte, the winery’s red blend rooted in native Dolomite varietals, reflects that heritage. Grown in the Dolomite Mountains, where cliff erosion and glacial deposits have sculpted granite soils across the valley vineyards, this wine captures the distinctive alpine terroir of Northern Italy. The Teroldego and Marzemino grapesmare vinified in the classic red winemaking style at 73-84°C for several days with the addition of selected yeasts. Then they are matured in French oak barrels (lightly roasted, 3 years old). Teroldego provides structure, along with deep red color and dark berry flavors, while Marzemino adds juicy, velvety lift and Merlot softens the blend, contributing subtle vanilla and cocoa notes. $16

Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022  Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. Owned by the Frescobaldi family, one of Italy’s most respected wine dynasties, Tenuta Perano is a classic estate nestled in Chianti Classico in Gaiole in Chianti where steep slopes and stony soils characterize the landscape.This Sangiovese-Merlot Chianti Classico Riserva is grown in the heart of Tuscany, where the slope and exposure of a natural amphitheater allow grapes to develop elegance and aromatic complexity. The vineyards are at 500 meters. Hand-harvested and aged 24 months in oak, the result is a beautiful red wine with a floral bouquet of violet and dog rose, red cherry fruit, hints of licorice and clove, and tertiary notes of tobacco and roasted aromas. I have always enjoyed the wines from Frescobaldi. $25

Varvaglione 12 e Mezzo Primitivo Puglia IGP Organic Wine 2023.  In the sun-drenched vineyards of southern Puglia, you’ll find Varvaglione, a family-owned winery now in its fourth generation. The winery is located in Leporano on the Gulf of Taranto in the Salento region of Puglia. They have 150 hectares of vineyards and contracts with grape growers who have been with them for over 30 years.  Their Primitivo thrives in warm, ventilated soils, mostly clay that produce grapes with intense color, ripe fruit and balanced acidity, shaping a naturally expressive, fruit-forward profile. Currant and blackberry notes are complemented by aromatic spices with a subtle coconut finish. “12 e mezzo,” meaning “12 and a half,” refers to the wine’s alcohol by volume — 12.5% — but it also reflects a deliberate stylistic choice. In a region known for powerful, high-alcohol Primitivo, Varvaglione crafted this wine to be fresher, more approachable, and exceptionally versatile at the table. The result is a modern expression of Puglia: vibrant, balanced, and designed for today’s drinker.  I  first discovered this wine on a press trip to Puglia a number of years ago $20.

A wine tour of Italy doesn’t have to be expensive.  Enjoy these three well priced wines!

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Varvaglione Del 1921-Good Wines, Good Price

The first time I tasted the wines of Varvaglione Dal 1921 was at a Radici Del Sud tasting in Puglia a number of years ago and liked the wines. Over the years I received samples from the winery and I included them in blogs I wrote on wines under $20. The last samples I received were in 2019 and the wines I tasted then were priced at $15 a bottle — a real bargain.

IMG_9556When I received an invitation from Noemi Mengo of Colangelo & Partners to attend a tasting of their wines at Back Barn Restaurant in NYC I was happy to accept.  I looked forward to trying the current vintages.

What made it even more interesting was the speaker, Marzia Varvaglione, the daughter of the owners and the marketing director.

IMG_9558Marzia is a charming, interesting speaker and was happy to share her information about the winery.

The winery is located in Leporano on the Gulf of Taranto in the Salento region of Puglia. They have 150 hectares of vineyards and contracts with grape growers who have been with them for over 30 years. Marzia said that the soil is mostly clay which makes it ideal for growing grapes.  Cosimo and Maria Teresa Varvaglione, her parents, are the owners of the winery and Cosimo is also the winemaker.  Marzia is the fourth generation of her family in the wine business and Varvaglione is the largest family-run winery in Puglia. She said their philosophy is combining new technology with old traditions.

The Wines

IMG_955212 e Mezzo Chardonnay Biologico Puglia IGP 2022 made from Chardonnay and Malvasia Bianca. The grapes are hand harvest when they are fully ripe. There is a careful selection of the grapes in the winery followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for a time before being bottled. This is a light to medium bodied white wine with hint of citrus fruit, lemon, apricot a note of lavender and good acidity. $20  Marzia said the name means “12 and a half,” for the wines’ 12.5 percent alcohol by volume and the grapes are from young vines.

IMG_954812 e Mezzo Primitivo Biologico Puglia IGP 2021 made from 100% Primitivo from young vines. Fermentation and maceration take place in stainless steel at a controlled temperature for 15/20 days.  After malolactic fermentation the wine spends a brief time in stainless steel before being bottled. This is a balanced, easy drinking wine with hints of currants, violets, blackberries, nutmeg and a touch of blackberries.   $18

Marzia said Primitivo ripens early and the grapes are the first to be picked.

IMG_9549Susumaniello Puglia IGP 2023 made fron 100% Susumaniello. There is a short maceration prior to  fermentation of de-stemmed grapes at a controlled temperature to extract characteristic aromas. Fermentation is for 15 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is then separated from the skins to start malolactic fermentation. Aging is for six months in large barrels. The wine has soft tannins with hints of red cherry, plum, blueberry, a touch of spice and a balsamic note.

Marzia said Susumaniello means “little donkey” in Puglian dialect because the vines at harvest time appear to almost struggle under the weight of so many grape clusters. Marzia said the traditional high yields can be a problem if left unchecked. However, when abundant yields began to decrease, the grapes reveal outstanding qualities, making wines with great structure, elegance and aromas.  A really delightful wine that I drank with lunch. $16. They also make a rose.

IMG_9550Papale Linea Oro Primitivo di Manduria DOP made from 100% Primitivo di Manduria.  Vinification and maceration takes place at a controlled temperature. After malolactic fermentation the wine is aged in French barrels and American barriques for at least 10 months. This is a round and smooth wine with hints of black plum, fruit jam, spice and red fruits of the woods. It would pair well with red meat and game. This is a wine that will age. $30.

Marzia said that because of the heat, the vines are Alberello-trained (small bushes) so that they develop deep roots to reach the water.

All of the Varvaglione wines that I tasted were very good wines that are available at a great price.

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