Category Archives: Sicily

November 8, 2024 · 4:04 am

Sicilian Wine and the Monzu’s Turkey Stuffed with Pasta

For Thanksgiving dinner, friends asked Michele to prepare a turkey recipe that she had learned in Palermo, Sicily when she was leading culinary tours.  Michele and her group had dined at the home of a former caterer and chef.  Much of the menu was based on historical recipes that had been devised by the Monzu’, French-trained Sicilian chefs who cooked for the Palermitano nobility.  When Michele and her group visited, the chef made a roast turkey stuffed with pasta.  It was unique and delicious.  Michele has come up with her own version of the Monzu’s turkey, and we have enjoyed it for several Thanksgiving dinners.

For Thanksgiving this year, our dinner will once again have a Sicilian theme so I decided the match the meal with Sicilian wines.

We’ll start with shrimp dressed with olive oil, lemon, garlic and parsley.

“Fiordiligi”  Sicilian DOC Grillo 2023 Assuli (Trapani) Made from 100% Grillo. The production area in the Mazara del Vallo is in northwestern Sicily. Soil is of medium texture rich in limestone and good minerality. The vineyards are at 200/250 meters. Training system is guyot vertical trellis with a medium high plant density of 5,000 plants per hectare. Harvest is from the second week of September depending each year on the ripening of the grapes. There is an extremely soft pressing with membrane press, followed by static clarification of the must and fermentation at controlled temperatures (between 15°-18°C) in stainless steel tanks. Wine remains on the lees for 4/5 months in stainless steel tanks and the in bottle for at least 2/3 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, pineapple and a touch of tropical fruit. $18

The Monzu’s Turkey stuffed with pasta

Il Frappato Vittoria Frappato Sicily DOC 2020  Valle Dell’ Acate (southeast corner of Sicily) made from 100% Frappato. There are 80 hectares of organically cultivated vineyards. The vineyards are at 100 meters and the soil is black, relatively compact and riddled with white stones. The soil structure makes it possible for plant roots to oxygenate freely, extending down deep into the ground. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier. Harvest takes place the first week of September.  The wine is aged in steel vats for 6 months and in bottle for at least 3 months before release. This is a fresh aromatic wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, with a hint of violets and a touch of sage.

The extra pasta stuffing baked in a gratin dish.

Nerello Mascalese Terre Siciliane Vento di Mare IGT 2021 Cantine Ermes Soc. Coop. Agr. 100% Nerello Mascalese produced from organic grapes (Colline di Gibellina in Western Sicily) The soil is mainly sandy and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place in the middle of September. The wine is aged for about 4 months in stainless steel before it is bottled.  Plum, blackberry, black cherry, touch of smoke and a note of  leather with a spicy finish. $18

Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2021 Feudo Arancio Stemmari made from 100% Nero D’Avola (Sambuca di Sicilia, in the province of Agrigento). The soil is mostly clay and the training system is espalier. There are about 4,500 per hectare. Harvest is the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and alcoholic fermentation with the skins lasts a few days in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation occurs with selected bacteria and then the wine is aged for a long period in French barriques. The wine has hints of currants, strawberries, and pomegranate with a hint of blackberries and a touch of blueberries,  $20.

Biscotti Regina, Sicilian sesame cookies are always a favorite way to end a meal.

It’s time to start making your Thanksgiving Dinner plans!

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Filed under Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Thanksgiving 2024

August 1, 2024 · 12:59 am

Two Wines from Sicily with Dishes to Match

Michele and I have been enjoying Sicilian wines matched with some dishes which are not traditional to Sicily. The wines are versatile and can go with a wide variety of foods.  Below  are two wines and three of the dishes we matched with them.

Sicilia DOC “Dalila” Stemmari 2020 made from Grillo, a native Sicilian grape, and locally grown Viognier, a variety that originated in the Rhone Valley. The Grillo is harvested in mid-September. 70% of the grapes are destemmed and soft pressed while the other 30% undergoes maceration on the skins for several hours and then decantation of the must.  Selected yeasts are added and fermentation is carried out at a controlled temperature of 60°F for several days, followed by maturation in stainless steel tanks.
Viognier is harvested around the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and soft pressed and undergo decantation at 54°F for several hours. Selected yeasts are added and fermentation is carried out in 3-year-old barriques with light toasting, followed by long maturation in oak with periodic batonnage. 
The wines are blended after maturation, and then aged in stainless steel for an additional few months. The wine then remains in bottle until it is ready for release. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, peach, apricot, and citrus fruit with a note of honey.

We had this wine with Crostini topped with Butter and Anchovies.

Followed by Michele’s homemade Stracci Pasta with a Thousand Herbs, a recipe from her book, A Fresh Taste of Italy.

Sicilia DOC Nero d’Avola 2020 Lamǔri. Tenuta  Regaleali made from 100% Nero d’Avola at 450 to 750 meters.  The soil is sand silt-deep clay.  Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, maceration lasts for about 12 days. Malolactic fermentation is completed. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225 liter French oak barrels -Allier and Tronçais- 20% new and 80% second and third passage. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, and cherries with a note of spice and a long lasting finish.

Last but not least was Lamb Roasted with Peppers, Cherry Tomatoes, Eggplant and Onion

 

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Filed under Nero d'Avola, Sicilian Wine, Sicily

July 11, 2024 · 3:20 am

Four Wines from Sicily with Dishes to Match

For the most part Michele and I like to match our meals with wine inspired by the same region as the food. Sometimes however we try dishes which are not traditional with the wine.

Sicily DOC Grillo 2022 Stemmari made from 100% Grillo. A varietal native to Sicily,  Grillo is the most famous white varietal on the island and was historically used for production of Marsala. The zone of production is Acate, in the province of Ragusa. This variety prefers typically sandy terrain that is sloped and gets a lot of sunlight. The type of farming is espalier, used with an average density of planting of 4500 plants per 2.5 acres. Grillo is an an average-to-late varietal with maturity reached about the second week in September. The collection of the grapes, pressing and destemming totally avoids the contact of the wine and must with oxygen during the stages of production, a method of vinification called “reduction.” The natural settling and fermentation take place at a controlled temperature for several days. Maturation on the lees is for a few months in steel tanks. The wine has hints of mango, papaya, jasmine. white flowers, a note of citrus and a touch of tropical fruit well balanced with a good acidity. $17

We had it with a roasted red snapper with raisins and pine nuts.  The delicate fruit flavors

The next three wines are based on Sicily’s Nero d’Avola grape variety. Nero d’Avola is the most important red wine grape grown in Sicily and its most important indigenous variety. The grape is named for the town of Avila in southern Sicily. The Nero d’Avola varietal is traditionally grown in the borough of Avola, a town located in the province of Siracusa, with evidence dating back to the 15th Century. In particular, this region is characterized by a mild climate in winte, partly due to the Monti Iblei, mountains shielding the area from north and north-west winds. Today the grape is cultivated  in every wine growing region of Sicily despite the diverse terrain of the Island.

Naturalmente BIO Nero d’Avola DOC 2021 Caruso & Minini made from 100% Nero D’Avola. The grapes are carefully selected and picked by hand. Maceration and fermentation of the destemmed grapes takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 15 to 20 days. 50% of the wine is aged in 225 liter barrels for 2 months and 50% in stainless steel. The wine is then placed in bottle for 2 months before release. The wine has hints of black fruit, plum, black cherry. a touch of chocolate, and a note of spice. $18

The winery is located on Sicily’s west coast near the town of Marsala. There are 120 hectares of vineyards at 200 to 400 meters.  The area, which was under water millions of years ago, is characterized by its alluvial soil, rich in water and organic substances. Most notable are the large stones called “cuti” in local dialect. The softball-sized cuti not only impart a distinct minerality to the grapes grown in them, but also soak up heat from the sun, which they transfer to the vines, allowing for an earlier ripening of the grapes thus making harvest possible at a stage which will allow for higher acidity in the wines.

We had it with a classic roast chicken and vegetables. Thanks to Susan Westmorland

Sicily DOC Riserva “Hedonis” Stemmari made from 100% Nero d’Avola. They cultivate their own vineyards along the  Southern coast of Sicily, on the two estates of Sambuca di Sicilia (AG) and Acate (RG). The production area is Sambuca di Sicilia in the province of Agrigento. The soil is mostly clay, the training system is espalier and an average of 4,500 plants per 2.5 acres. The exposure is east. The rich soils, warm climate with cooler nights from the elevated growing area in Sambuca di Sicilia allow for perfect maturation of the grapes that are harvested in mid-September. A partial selection of the grapes undergoes fermentation and maceration for several days with repeated pumping of must over the grapes dregs to extract the color and tannins, which give structure to the wine. After going through a full malolactic fermentation, the wine from this selection is aged in French American oak barrels for several months. Simultaneously, a second selection of grapes is allowed to hang longer on the vine in order to impart an additional level of fruit complexity and darker flavors. After its alcoholic fermentation and maceration, the wine is kept in stainless steel for several months. At the end of both aging periods, they make an assemblage with 50% of the wine aged in barrels and 50% of the wine made from a non-oaked aromatic blend of extra hang time grapes, creating a distinctive, rich and elegant wine.  This is a complex and elegant wine with hints of dried red fruit red currents, strawberry, spice, a touch of almond, a hint of vanilla and a trace of tobacco. $56

We had it with a grilled duck breast salad with oranges, hazelnuts and lettuce.

Appassimento “Nero Oro” Nero d’ Avola Appassimento Sicily DOC 2022 made from a carefully selected blend of fresh and dried Nero d’Avola grapes. Caruso & Minini

Appassimento: In mid September the selection of the best Nero d’Avola grapes are picked by hand. The grapes are dried using two distinct methods depending on the area the grapes come from. Both methods have been used in Sicily for centuries.  For the most gentle and natural appassimento, the grapes are left on the vine for longer then usual through the dehydration on the vines. An alternative method is to let the grapes dry on racks for 15 days. These grapes are dried until they have lost 10 to 15% of their original weight. The vinification process is very gentle. Destemming is followed by a particular soft pressing. There is frequent pumping over in the early part of fermentation after which malolactic fermentation takes place. This is a very intense wine with flavors of cherries, blackberries, blueberries a touch of dry prunes and a note of licorice. $12

We had it with some of my favorite cookies that Michele always keeps on hand.  Double chocolate hazelnut biscotti and ciambelline al vino flavored with anise seed.

 

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Filed under Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Sicily

June 17, 2024 · 1:33 am

6 Wines for 6 Dishes

Michele and I enjoy trying new wine and food combinations.  Here are six wines that Michele paired with six different dishes and they all worked very well.

FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé 2021 (Veneto, Treviso) made from 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Noir. The grapes are carefully handpicked during late summer or early fall with the perfect balance of  sugar and acidity. They are then gently pressed and the extracted grape juice undergoes its first fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  Yeasts convert the natural sugars into alcohol producing a still wine.  The still wine is transferred to pressurized stainless steel tanks along with a dose of yeast and sugar. As fermentation occurs in sealed tanks, carbon dioxide is trapped, creating the delightful bubbles. This second fermentation which gives the wine its effervescence takes place using the Charmat method, also know as the tank method. After the second fermentation the wine is left to settle in the tanks for a few months allowing the flavors to blend and the bubbles to fully develop.  It is then bottled and released for sale.

This is an elegant Prosecco with hints of raspberry, wild strawberry, citrus fruit, apple and pear with a touch of lemon and a note of wild flowers. $22

Note:  FIOL  is a term of endearment for a young man from the Old Venetian Republic language from the 1400’s.

Antipasto:  Fresh salame with Neapolitan almond taralli and olives.

Principe G 2020 dei Principi Spadafora (Sicily) Terre Sicilia Bianco IGP. Spadafora Made from 53% Grillo and 47% Cataratto. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the exposure is west. The soil is sandy, clay and the training system is simple guyot espalier. There are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is in mid September.  Spontaneous fermentation on the pied de cuve of the grapes without sulfur dioxide at a controlled temperature in cement vats. The wine is aged for 12 months in vats and 4 months in bottle before release. Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodynamic, $15

Sardine Beccafico:  Sicilian-style sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts and raisins.

Etna Bianco di Sei  2021 Palmento Constanzo (Sicily) made from 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto. The exposure is north/east and the soil is volcanic sand and rocks. Bush training with chestnut poles and the vines are up to 100 years old. There are 7,000 vines per hectare. Manual harvest the last week os September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation is in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks in contact with the lees and 8 months in bottle before release. This is an intense and elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, aromatic fruit, white flowers with hint of sage and a note of mint. $45

Note: “Bianco di Sei” refers to “six”, which is the top designation for volcanic activity, and is the top tier white wine from this estate.   The winery is at the foot of the Muntagna, the name the locals fondly use to refer to Etna. Eighteen hectares are divided into several contradas and hills. The small parcels are vinified separately because each plot is characterized by the lava flow that sedimented over time.

Pasta con le Sarde — Pasta with sardines, fennel, raisins and pine nuts, baked in a small timbale.

Barbera D’Alba Superiore 2021 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) made from 100 % Barbara from the 1.7  Roddi “Elia”vineyard which is 200/250 meters with a south-southeast exposure. There are 4,200 plants per hectare. The soil is chalky/clay and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the second week of September. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed, and placed in vats at a temperature of 18 °C for 3 days to bring out their varietal aromas. Fermentation takes place at a temperature of 26 °C, followed by a 6/8-day period of maceration and then the drawing-off. Once the malolactic fermentation took place, the wine ages for 12 months in 25 HL barrels. The wine has hints of red roses, raspberries, black cherries, blackberries and a hint of red plum. $18

Note: In the local dialect “cucco” indicates the hilltop location of the oldest part of the vineyard, inside the Cru Cerrati.

Roasted chicken with potatoes

Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2019 Tenuta Calimaia -Frescobaldi (Tuscany) . Made from 90% Sangiovese (know locally as Prugnolo Gentile) and 10% complementary red grape varieties.  Calimaia is found in the gentle hills between the Val di Chiana and the Val d’Orcia. Located around the winery’s hill, the vineyards sit at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level and are differentiated by exposure and soil type of vineyards thus helping to bring out the best in each variety grown. There are 70 hectares of vineyards. Soil is sand-veined illite clay. Manual harvest. The grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature (26 °C), and fermentation took place spontaneously. Maceration on the skins allowed for perfect extraction of the polyphenols, assisted by frequent pumping over in the initial stages of fermentation, délestage in the intermediate stage, and further pumping over in the final stage. The malolactic fermentation was completed in steel before winter. The wine matured in 50 hL oak barrels for 24 months. It then rested in the bottle for some months before release.

Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodymanic. The wine has hints of cherry, herbs, spice, and pepper, with a hint of chocolate and a note of licorice. $24

Pasta with meat and tomato sauce

Barolo Cerrati 2019 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) Made from 100% Nebbiolo from the Cerrati area in Serralunga d’Alba, the 4 hectare Vigna Cucco is at 260/395 meters. The exposure is south/southeast and the soil is shallow chalky/clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is in October. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed and then left in small vats for 72 hours at a temperature of 10°C, for pre-fermentation steeping. In this way the characteristics of this vineyard are highlighted. This is followed by fermentation with gentle steeping at a temperature of 16°C. Drawing-off takes place when the product is fully dry, after an additional fermentation for 20-25 days on the skins. Then the malolactic bacteria transform the malic acid and the wine will be ready to be transferred for the ageing process. The wine remains for 12 months in small barrels of French oak and after that, it completes its ageing process in traditional barrels for a further 12 months, until it reaches its peak. It is then transferred to bottles, where it matures for at least 6 months before being sold.

The wine has hints of cherry, blackcurrant, blackberries and mushrooms.  It is a wine that will age. $73

Prosciutto Wrapped Braised Quail with spring vegetable stew.

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Filed under Almento Constanzo, Barbara, Barolo, Fiol Prosecco, Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Tenuta Calimaia, Tenuta Cucco, Vino Nobile di Montepulicano

November 26, 2021 · 3:50 am

Red Wine and Bistecca in Florence

Last month when I was in Florence, Riccardo Gabriele of Pr-vino, a wine public relations firm, invited me to a tasting of the White and Red wines of the producers he represents. The tasting was held at da Burde, a traditional Tuscan trattoria, about a 20 minute drive from the center.

IMG_6057 2After the wine tasting, we enjoyed a lunch of many of the classic dishes of the region.  One of the courses was Bistecca alla Fiorentina from Chianina cattle, and the following red wines were a perfect combination with the steak.

IMG_6040Chianti Classico 2019 Castello La Leccia made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 350 to 500 meters, soil is clay, silt sand, schistous  clay and alberese. There are 4,500/ 5,200 vines per hectare and the vines are 9 to 15 years old. There is a south/southwest exposure and the training system is guyot. Harvest is manual in September/October and there is a selection in the vineyard. Destemmed grapes are gently crushed and transferred to steel thanks which are temperature controlled. There is a pre-fermentation cryomaceration for 24 hours followed by the alcoholic fermentation with short and frequent pumping over. Maceration lasts for 10 to 12 days. After racking, malolactic fermentation and maturation is in concrete tanks. The wine remains for 12 months in French and Austrian oak barrels of 2,000 to 2,500 liters. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, and violets. 

IMG_6041Chianti Classico 2015 DOCG Quercia Al Poggio Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo and Colorino, all indigenous Tuscan grapes which are certified organic. The soil is limestone, clay, schist and calcareous clay galestro. The vines are Cordon trained and spur-pruned guyot. Harvest is manual. Traditional red winemaking in temperature controlled stainless steel and cement. The wine is aged in 500 liter old French oak barrels for 24 months and 6 months in bottle before release.  The winery is located in Barberino Val d’Elsa which is between Florence and Siena. They use organic farming methods. This is a very traditional, easy drinking Chianti with hints of blackberry, blueberries and violets.

IMG_6038Chianti Classico 2019 DOCG “L’Aura” Querceto di Castellina made from 100% Sangiovese. Harvest is by hand and the winery is certified organic. The wine spends 12 months in 500 liter French oak barrels and three months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of ripe red fruit, cherries, rasperries, herbal notes and a touch of bayleaf.

IMG_6035Carmignano 2017 Capezzana by Contini Bonaccossi Villa di Capezzana. Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The elevation is 180/220 meters and the soil is clay, limestone, schist and marl. The age of the wines is 20/40 years and the training system is guyot cordon spur. There are 4,500 vines per hectare and they use organic farming practices. Fermentation is with native indigenous yeast. There is a 13 day extended maceration period. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French tonneaux. Aging: 60% in 2nd and 3rd or 4th passage French oak tonneaux, 10% in new French oak tonneaux and 30% in 5/30 year old untoasted Allier or Slavonian 24 HL barrels for 12 months. The wine is aged for another 12 months in bottle before release. This is an elegant wine with hints of red berries with a note of blueberries and a touch of violets. I have a long history with this estate going back 40 years. This is a wine that can age. In 1985 I had the 1925 which at the time was labeled Chianti Montalbano.

IMG_6044Taurasi 2016 DOCG Villa Matilde made from 100% Aglianico. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the training system is simple guyot with about 6 buds per plant. There are 3,000 vines per hectare and the soil is tufaceous with a good percentage of clay. Harvest is the third week of October. The grape bunches are destemmed  and pressed and the must is given a cold maceration on the skins. (Selected yeast is used). The must ferments slowly at 70F. The wine macerates on the skins for over 20 days, with daily pumpovers and délestages followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged tonneau and large oak barrels for 18 months and 12 months in bottle before release. This is a fully bodied wine with hints of cherries, blackberries, spice and a hit of tobacco. I have been lucky to have visited the estate a few times.

IMG_6031Neroossidiana Terre Siciliane Rosso 2017 IGT Tenuta di Castelaro Production area the Lipari Islands (Aeolian Islands) made from 90% Corinto Nero  and 10% Nero d’Avola. The soil is sandy, volcanic, deep and rich in micro-elements and the vineyard is at 350 meters. The training system is alberello (free standing little plants).  There are 7,000 plants per hectare. Selected bunches are hand picked. The destemmed grapes are fermented by the natural yeast on the grape skins. There is a long maturation with the skins.  The wine is decanted to barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place. After about one year the wine goes into steel tanks. Only static decanting takes place before bottling. The wine remains in the bottle for at least 6 months before release. This wine will age for at least 10 years. This is a wine with hints of  red fruit, cherry, spice, a touch of musk and an undertone of salty minerality which makes it unique.

IMG_6036

Costa Tuscana Riserva IGT La Regola made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Red Mediterranean soil with an abundance of stones. The vineyards are at 150 to 200 meters. Hand harvesting of grapes with a careful selection. There is a medium maceration and alcoholic fermentation is in natural concrete vats at a controlled temperature. After malolactic fermentation the wine spends 18 months in new French barriques made in Burgundy and at least 12 months in bottle before release. This is a fruit forward wine characteristic of Cabernet Franc with a hint of spice and vanilla.

IMG_6042Beconcini “IXE”  The name is the Tuscan pronunciation for the letter X. The letter X stands for unknown vines. In the early 1950’s, 213 vines of unknown species were found in the vineyard which were called X vines. With help from the Ministry of Agriculture these vines were declared to be Tempranillo a few years ago. In June of 2009, Tempranillo was enrolled in the Tuscan register. As far as I know Tempranillo was never cultivated before in Italy.

The IGT is Tuscany Tempranillo. This wine is made from 99.9% of Tempranillo and a touch of Sangiovese. The winery is located in the town of San Miniato. The vineyard is 3.5 hectares and the grapes are all from the new vineyards planted in 1997 using a massal selection from buds taken from the century old vines of Tempranillo from the Vigna alle Nicchie. The training is spurred cordon. Soil is sandstone with marine fossil formation, well integrated with abundant clay. 100/150 meters above sea level and there are 7,000 vines per hectare. Harvest the first 10 days of September. The grapes are dried for 4 weeks and they obtain a total yield of 70%. Fermentation takes place in temperature controlled glass lined cement vats, maceration is for 3 weeks. Aging lasts for 14 months in 70% French barriques and 30% American oak barriques of second passage. 6 months in bottle before release. First passage in barriques is for the wine from the grapes of the historical vineyard Vigna alle Nicchie that goes into the wine of the same name. This is a medium bodied wine with fresh red fruit aromas and hints of plum, spice and licorice. I served the wine blind to a wine knowledgable friend and  after a few sips he said Tempranillo!!

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Filed under Capezzana, Chianti Classico, Riccardo Gabriele, Sicily, Taurasi, Tuscany, Uncategorized, Villa Matilde

July 20, 2020 · 3:19 am

A Sicilian Dinner by the Pool

A Sicilian dinner by the pool

Michele and I visit our friend in NJ every week or so where we enjoy great food and wonderful wine. Since we all miss Italy so much, we decided to plan a meal with the food and wine of some of the regions we have visited.  We started with the food and wine of Sicily.

Michele did most of the cooking except for the arancini from a local shop.

The rice balls, arancini,  were stuffed  with  a ground  meat  ragu  and peas.  We ate them by the pool with some chilled white wine.

Vinny, a friend who is a master hand at the grill prepared the perfectly grilled shrimp dressed with olive oil, garlic and parsley.

We ate the shrimp with bruschetta topped with tomatoes and basil.

 

Michele made Pasta Ericese which we first had at a little trattoria in Erice, Sicily, a number of years ago.  The sauce is a pesto of almonds, tomatoes, basil, garlic and grated pecorino, topped with cubes of fried eggplant.  When we had it in Erice, the cook had also added rounds of fried potatoes, but Michele decided to forego them this time.

 

Moscato Sicilia DOC “Mosca” Barone Sergio made from 100% Moscato Bianco. The soil is of medium texture, mineral and calcareous. The vineyard is 70/80 meters and the system of cultivation is espalier. Harvest takes place the first week of September. The grapes are hand harvested. There is criomaceration for 24 hours followed by a soft pressing. Then cold clarification of the must followed by fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature. The rest is in stainless steel tanks on the lees for 6 months. This is an aromatic wine with hints of peach, sage and white flowers.

 

 

Donna Angelica DOC Sicilia 2018 made from Catarrato, Grillo and Zibibbo Assuli Production area Mazara del Vallo (northwest Sicily). The soil is clay with limestone, organic elements and nitrogen. The vineyard is at 200/250 meters and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. The training system is vertical trellises. Harvest is from the end of August and the end of September depending upon the weather. There is an extremely soft pressing of the grapes with a membrane press, followed by static clarification of the must and fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks. The wine spends 8 to 10 months on the lees with batonnage. The wine is in bottle for 3/4 months before release. This is a wine with a fruit bouquet, a touch of white flowers and hints of apricot and white peaches.

 

Our main course was Swordfish with Caper and Fresh Herb Sauce.  The fresh swordfish was lightly poached with wine and aromatic seasonings, then topped with a cool dressing of mint, thyme, lemon and capers.  This is a recipe from “The Heart of Sicily,” by the late Anna Tasca Lanza.

Passito IGT Sicily “L’ECRÙ” 200 Firriato.  Moscato and a small amount of Malmsey from the Tenuta Borgo estate in the Trapani countryside. The soil here is of medium texture; mostly clay and the vineyards have a north-south exposure at 250/400 meters. There are 5,500 vines per hectare and the training is cordon spur pruned/guyot.  The harvest takes place the first week of September and the most mature grapes are hand harvested.  The rest remain on the vines until they reach full maturity. Soft pressing of the grapes and the fermentation takes place at controlled temperature lasts for 4 weeks. The wine is aged in bottle for 4 months before release. This is a very elegant dessert wine with aromas of candied orange peels, dried figs and dates. It has a clean but long finish and wonderful aftertaste.

 

Michele made Biscotti Regina, Sicilian sesame cookies, which were a perfect match with the Passito.

 

The Pool

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Filed under Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Uncategorized

November 13, 2017 · 5:54 am

Tasting Sicily and Firriato Wine at Norma Gastronomia

I have a long history with the wines of Firriato from Siciily, and Salvatore Fraterrigo, chef/owner of Norma Gastronomia Siciliana. I first tasted Firriato wines when I was the wine director for I Trulli restaurant in NYC, and shortly after, Salvatore became the restaurant’s chef.

When Michele and I went to Sicily, we visited the Firriato estate near Trapani. We were treated to a typical Sicilian lunch paired with their wines and learned to appreciate them even more.

Salvatore with a cuscus bowl

Both Salvatore, known as Toto, and I are Sicilian and we became friends. He would come to our apartment to cook and we traveled in Sicily with him. Salvatore once had owned a restaurant in Trapani and he told me that he had the Firriato wines on his wine list. He even knew the owners of the winery Salvatore and Vinzia Di Gaetano.

When Daniela Pugliesi asked me to host a lunch for journalists with the wines of Firriato I suggested we hold it a Norma Gastronomia Siciliana, Salvatore’s restaurant. I knew we would have Sicilian food like we had in Sicily.

Federico

The speaker for the event was Federico Lombardo di Monte, the COO of the winery. He said that Firriato is a family run business. The president is Salvatore Di Gaetano and the CEO is Vinzia Novara Di Gaetano. Irene Di Gaetano Lombardo di Monte Iato is the Chairman.

Federico said that Firriato is comprised of 6 estates, four of which are near Trapani: Baglio Soria, Borgo Guanini — the largest with over 140 hectares of vineyards, Pianoro Cuddia and the Dagala Borromeo. On the east coast near Mount Etna is the Cavanera estate that has 11 hectares of vines. The Calamoni estate is on the island of Favignana, one of the Egadi Islands off the coast of Trapani.

Glasses of Gaudensius NV Blanc des Noirs Metodo Classico Brut Etna DOC greeted the guests as they entered the restaurant. It is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from the Northeastern slopes of Mt. Etna at 650 meters. The soil is sandy with good drainage. There are 3,500 plants per hectare and they are cordon Royat trained. Harvest is by hand the last week of September.There is a soft pressing of whole grapes and fermentation is at a controlled temperature. The second fermentation (Classic Method) is in the bottle. The juice is in contact with the yeast for 32 months with frequent “Coup de poignet” to enhance the complexity of the bouquet and taste. Sugar is 8g/l on average. This is an elegant and complex spumante with hints of berries, brioche and currants with a long finish and a touch of almonds in the aftertaste.

One of the journalists, Ed Mc Carthy, author of Champagne for Dummies praised this wine so much he was given a bottle to take home.

The Firriato wines that I will discuss in this post are those that I did not write about in a previous post. For more information see:https://charlesscicolone.life/2017/10/02/firriato-sicilian-wine-at-its-best/

Le Sabbie dell’ Etna Bianco DOC 2016 made from Carricanti and Catarrato. 

This wine was an accompaniment to Arancina Al Nero Di Seppia – Deep-fried squid ink risotto rice balls filled with spicy shrimp ragu. These were moist and flavorful inside with a crusty brown breadcrumb coating.

Altavilla DOC Sicilia 2016 made from 100% Grillo from the Trapani countryside at the Borgo Guarini estate. The soil is of medium mixture mostly clay. The exposure is westerly and at 250 meters. The vines are cordon trained and spur pruned/guyot and there are 4,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare. Fermentation lasts for 15 to 18 days at a controlled temperature. The grapes are soft pressed and remain on the lees for 3 months with daily shaking. The wine remains in the bottle for two months before release. The wine has hints of tangerine, grapefruit, melon and sage and a touch of almond.

Crocchette di Baccala Con Salsa Ali-Oli — Salt cod coquettes in sesame crust were served with aioli sauce. The cod filling was creamy and delicate and the sesame seeds made a crisp coating, perfect for dunking in the aioli.

Jasmin IGT Terre Sicilane 2016 made from 100% Zibibbo from the Trapani countryside at the Borgo Guarini Estate. The soil is mid-mixed, mostly clay. The exposure is west at 300 meters and there are 4,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare. The vines are cordon trained, spur pruned/guyot. Harvest is by hand the last week of August.Fermentation lasts for 20 days at a controlled temperature. The grapes are soft pressed and then spend 3 months on the lees in stainless steel tanks with daily shaking. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 months before release. This is a highly aromatic and dry wine with hints of citrus, both yellow and red fruit, jasmine and a touch white flowers.

Federico pointed out that zibbibo usually is grown in Pantelleria and used to make sweet wines. This version is dry and the grapes were grown in Trapani. This is the first time I had a dry version and was very impressed by it.

Cus-Cus Trapanese Ai Frutti Di Mare – Salvatore makes the cus cus grains from scratch from semolina that he brings in from Sicily. It is a painstaking process and the results are quite different from the quick cooking variety you find elsewhere. He cooked the cus cus in a delicious sea food broth that contained clams, squid, mussels and several types of fish in a lightly spiced broth.

Le Sabbie dell’ Etna Rosso DOD 2015 made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio

Caponata Palermitana Con Panelle, Caprino E Mandorle – Salvatore’s sweet and sour eggplant stew is cooked “Palermo style” and served with chick pea fritters, goat cheese, and toasted almonds.

Chiaramonte Terre Siciliane 2015 IGT 100% Nerod’Avola

Pizza “Rianata” This spicy pizza is a specialty of Sicily for lovers the flavors of garlic, anchovies, cherry tomatoes, and oregano.

Santagostino Rosso, “Baglio Soria” Terre Siciliane IGT 2012 made from Nero d’Avola and Syrah

Pasta Alla “Norma”– Salvatore uses imported durum paccheri, a large tubular pasta, and sauces it with fresh tomatoes, eggplant, basil, ricotta salata cheese.

Ribeca DOC Sicily 2013 made from 100% Perricone

Anelletti Alla Palermitana in Casseruola – Tiny ring shaped baked pasta are baked in a casserole with beef & pork ragu, green peas, Italian ham, eggplant, primo sale and ricotta salata cheeses, and basil.

Harmonium Sicily DOC 2013 100% Nero d’Avola

Involitini Di Arista Alla Siciliana – Pork loin slices stuffed with a mixture of cured meat, smoked mozzarella and roasted tomato and roasted.

“L’Ecrù” Passito IGT Sicily 2008 made from Moscato and a small amount of Malmsey.

Cannoli – House made cannoli are filled with sheep milk ricotta and pistachios.

I was very pleased by the food and wine combinations chosen by Salvatore and Federico. The pairings were perfect and it was like eating and drinking in Sicily.

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October 2, 2017 · 4:43 am

Firriato: Sicilian Wine at its Best

I have a long history with the wines of Firriato from Sicily. When I was the wine director for I Trulli restaurant in NYC, I was introduced to them by one of the wine salespeople. Knowing my taste, he believed that I would like the wines and he was right.

Next, Michele and I went to Sicily where we visited the Firriato estate near Trapani. We were treated to a typical Sicilian lunch paired with their wines and learned to appreciate them even more. Then, a few years ago I attended a lunch at Il Gattopardo Restaurant in NYC where I enjoyed the more current vintages.
Recently, I was asked if I wanted to taste a number of samples from the winery and I accepted gladly.

The winery

Firriato is a family run business; the president is Salvatore Di Gaetano, the CEO is Vinzia Novara Di Gaetano, the COO Is Federico Lombardo di Monte Iato, and the Chairman is Irene Di Gaetano Lombardo di Monte Iato.

Firriato is comprised of 6 estates, four of which are near Trapani: Baglio Soria, Borgo Guanini — the largest with over 140 hectares of vineyards, Pianoro Cuddia and the Dagala Borromeo. On the east coast near Mount Etna is the Cavanera estate that has 11 hectares of vines. Off the coast of Trapani are the Egadi Islands. The Calamoni estate is on the island of Favignana.

The Wines

Le Sabbie Dell’Etna Etna Bianco DOC 2016 made from Carricante and Catarrato from the territory of Castiglione di Sicily (Catania) at the Cavanera Estate. The soil is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage. The vineyards are on the northeastern side of the volcano at 720 meters. The soil is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage and there are 4,000 to 4,500 vines per hectare and the vines are cordon royat trained(trellises). Harvest is the second week of October. Fermentation lasts for 15 days. Vinification: soft pressing and fermentation at a controlled temperature. The wine remains for 3 months on the  lees in steel tanks with daily shaking and remains in bottle for two months before release. This is a fruity wine with hints of white peaches and pears.

Favinia “La Muciara” Bianco 2014 IGT Sicily. Made from Grillo, Catarratto and Zibibbo. The grapes were grown on the Island of Favignana off the west coast of Sicily. They are grown at the Tenuta Calamoni estate, which is two meters from the sea. The training system for the vines is alberello and there are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand during the first week in September and the grapes are placed in small baskets. In the winery soft pressing is followed by fermentation for 20 days in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged for 6 months in stainless steel and for 2 more months in bottle before release. The heat during the day and the ocean breeze make for a wine with a mineral character and good acidity. The vineyards are 10 years old.

Ribeca DOC Sicily 2013 made from 100% Perricone from the Pianoro Cuddia Estate in the Trapani countryside. The soil is clayey and the vineyards have a south/southwest exposure and are at 200 meters. The training system is guyot and there are 5,000/6,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are hand picked the third week of September and the first week of October. Fermentation is for 14 days at 26/28 degrees C. in temperature controlled steel tanks in to red wine tradition. The wine is aged for 10/12 months in French durmast barrique. The wine has hints of cherries and blueberries with a touch of prune and juniper.

Le Sabbie Dell’Etna Etna Rosso DOC 2015 made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from the Cavanera Etna Estate at the Northern side of the Volcano at 700 meters. The soil is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage and the vines are cordon royat trained and there are 4,000 to 4,500 plants per hectare. Gapes are hand picked the 2nd and 3rd weeks in October. Fermentation lasts for 14 days. Vinification is carried out according to tradition. The wine is aged in durmast barriques for 6 months and in bottle for 2 months before release. The wine has hints of black cherry, prune with a touch of licorice.

Cavanera “Rovo delle Coturnie” Etna Rosso DOC 2013 made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from the Cavanera Etna Estate. The soil composition is loamy-sandy of volcanic origin with good drainage. The vineyards are on the northeastern side of the volcano at 750 meters and there are 3,000 to 4,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand the 2nd and 3rd weeks of October. Fermentation is for 18 days. Vinification in frustum of cone shaped wooden, according to tradition. The wine is aged for 9 months in French barriques and for 6 months in Slovenian durmast. The wine has hints of red fruit, peach a hint of black pepper and good minerality.

Santgostino “Bagio Soria” Terre Siciliane IGT 2012 made from Nero d’Avola and Syrah. The vineyards have a south/south westerly exposure and are at 200 meters. The soil is calcareous-clay and the vines are cordon trained, spur pruned/guyot and there are 5,000/6,000 vines per hectare. Hand harvest the first week of September for the Syrah and the second week of September for the Nero’d Avola.
Traditional vinification in temperature controlled steel tanks.
The wine is aged for 8 months in American Durmast barriques and 6 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of wild berries, cherries and a touch of prune, clove and licorice.

Chiaramonte Terre Siciliane 2015 IGT 100% Nero d’Avola from Tenuta Dagala Borromeo in the Trapani countryside. The vineyards have a south/south-westerly exposure and are at 230 meters. The soil is mid-mixture, mostly clay, vines are cordon trained, spur pruned/guyot and there are 5,000 to 5,500 vines per hectare. Harvest takes place the third week of September. Fermentation lasts for 10 days. Vinification in temperature controlled stainless steel tank according to tradition. The wine is aged for 6 months in American durmast barrriques and in bottle for 3 months before release. The wine has hints of black cherries and blueberries with a touch of black pepper and cloves.

Harmonium Sicily DOC Sicily 2013 100% Nero d’Avola from the Borgo Guarini Estate. This is a “cru” from 3 vineyards: Ferla cru with a north-east exposure, Beccaccia cru with a south exposure and the Lepre cru with a south-east exposure. They are at 300 meters. The soil is calcareous-slime, there are 5,000/5,500 vines per hectare and the vines are cordon trained and spur pruned. Grapes are hand-picked the third week of September. Vinification in temperature controlled steel tanks according to tradition. The wine is aged for 12 months in French and American durmast barriques. This is a well-structured wine with hints of cherry, blueberries, prunes and a hint of pepper and nutmeg.

Passito IGT Sicily “L’ECRÙ” 2008  made from Moscato and a small amount of Malmsey from the Tenuta Borgo estate in the Trapani countryside. The soil here is of medium texture; mostly clay and the vineyards have a north-south exposure at 250/400 meters. There are 5,500 vines per hectare and the training is cordon spur pruned/guyot.
The harvest takes place the first week of September and the most mature grapes are hand harvested. The rest remain on the vines until they reach full maturity. Soft pressing of the grapes and the fermentation at controlled temperature lasts for 4 weeks. The wine is aged in bottle for 4 months before release. This is a very elegant dessert wine with aromas of candied orange peels, dried figs and dates. It has a clean but long finish and wonderful aftertaste.

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January 4, 2016 · 7:46 am

Tenuta Gigliotto: Sicilian Wine The Way I Like It

It is very rare that I go to a tasting where all of the wines reflect the terroir and the grapes they are made from. This was the case when I tasted the wines of Tenuta Gigliotto at I Trulli restaurant in NYC last month.

The Gigliotto winery is 9 Km from Piazza Armerina (famous for its Roman mosaics, 360AD) in Sicily.

At the tasting and lunch there was not one wine that was international in style or “made for the American market”, which I appreciated very much.

Elio Savoca

Elio Savoca

Tenuta Gigliotto is a family business managed by Elio Savoca, who hosted the tasting. Elio spoke about the winery and how they now welcome paying guests on their property at their agriturismo.

He told us that for the last 20 years the winery has been under organic management. Organic for them is the result of a natural and spontaneous process and above all a respect for nature. Elio is also very interested in the history of Sicily and the wines are named after persons or places of historical importance. One wine is named for Count Ruggero, later Roger I of Sicily, who is credited not only for driving the Arabs from Piazza Amerina but also from all of Sicily.

Angelo Alescio

Angelo Alescio

The wine maker, Angelo Alescio, spoke about the wine. He said there are 20 hectares of vines and the soil is generally sandy. All the vineyards have a southern exposure and are at 400 meters. There is a strong wind, which comes from the sea 25km away and has a strong influence on the vines. The training system is Guyot.

He said vinification is carried out under inert gas using cross-flow filters for filtering the wine. It is a less invasive and more effective method. They use French oak barrels and chestnut barrels. Angelo made the point of saying that the use of chestnut was the way wine was processed and aged in the past in Sicily because it was readily available.IMG_9400

Santa Chiara Dry Moscato made from 100% Moscato. This is a very interesting wine. On the bouquet and on the palate it has all the slightly sweet fruity flavors of the Moscato grape but the finish and aftertaste is dry so that it is a wine which can go with food.IMG_9403

White Wine IGT Sicily “Venere” 100% Chardonnay. There are 4,800 plants per hectare and the grapes are picked by hand the second half of August. The grapes are softly pressed by using a pneumatic press. The must ferments in steel tanks with the traditional cold method and temperature control system. About 30% of the wine is fermented in wooden barrels. The wine is then aged in the bottle for several months before release.IMG_9404

Rose Wine IGT Sicily “Kanzir” made from 100% Nero d’Avola. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the grapes are hand picked in the second and third weeks of September. Traditional white wine vinification, after the grapes are slightly pressed. The must is fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with the yeast that is on the skins. The wine is aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 3 months in bottle before release. It has nice red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of raspberries and a touch of almonds.IMG_9392

Red Wine DOP Sicily “San Michele” made from 100% Frappato. There are 5,000 vines per hectare and harvest takes place the last week of September. Traditional fermentation at controlled temperature. The wine is aged at least 12 months in stainless steel and barrel. This is very aromatic wine with fresh red berry flavors and aromas and a hint of spice and notes of roses.IMG_9391

Red Wine IGT Sicily “Vossia” made from 100% Nero d’Avola. There are 5,000 vines per ha and the harvest takes place the second and third weeks of September. The wine is fermented and macerated under controlled temperatures for 10 days. Aged in casks for 6 months. This is an aromatic wine with hints of red berries, violets, spice and a touch of almonds.IMG_9396

Red Wine Sicily IGT made from 100% Nero d’Avola this is a more intense version of the wine above.IMG_9388

Red Wine IGT Sicily “Conte Ruggero” 100% Petit Verdot. There are 4.500 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place the second and third weeks in September. Vinification is the same as above. The wine is aged for 12 months in barrel. The wine has hints of raspberries and cherries with a nice finish and pleasant after taste.IMG_9395

Merlot “Campione De Vasca 2014” made from 100% Merlot. This is vinified like the wine above. It was one of the few times which I have tasted merlot that was so true to the grape.IMG_9386 

Patrisano Dessert Wine made from 100% Zibibbo (White Moscato) There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place in November. It is a late harvest and the grapes are picked after they wither on the vines. Traditional wine vinification takes place at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in steel tanks and French oak barrels. It has hints of mature fruits along with honey and a touch of spice with a long finish and very pleasing aftertaste.

 

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October 19, 2015 · 4:44 am

A Sicilian Family Winery

Benedetto Alessandro, the oenologist of the Alessandro di Camporeale winery in Sicily, was the speaker at a tasting I attended recently of his company’s wines.

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Benedetto Alessandro

This is a fourth generation family-owned and operated winery located in the small farming town of Camporeale, close to Palermo. The estate is at the foot of a hill overlooking the Mandranove Plain. There are 35 hectares of vineyards at about 400 meters. The climate is mild and the fertile clay and limestone-based soil are ideal for producing a wide variety of different grapes. He made a point of saying that the approach in the vineyard follows the overall values of tradition, experience and knowledge of the land. All vine related activities are carried out by hand, following organic farming principles such as biodiversity to combat parasites and using green manure to promote soil fertility.

The wines of Alessandro di Camporeale IMG_8816

Catarratto “Benedè” DOC Sicily 2014 100% Cataratto. The vines were planted in 1990 and are at 420 to 470 meters. The soil is clay and sand, the training system is guyot and there are 3,500 plants per hectare. Harvesting is by hand starting the 10th day of September. The grapes are destemmed and cooled, then a soft pressing takes place. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a low temperature for 15 days. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. It is aged for 6 months in stainless steel and another 2 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apricot and white peach with a hint of almonds in the aftertaste. $19IMG_8817

Grillo “Vigna di Mandranov” DOC Sicily 2013. 100% Grillo. The vineyard was planted in 2009. It is at 450 meters, the soil is clay, the training system is guyot espalier and there are 4,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand starting in the beginning of September. After destemming, the grapes are cooled and gently pressed in an oxygen free environment. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a low temperature for 15 days. The wine is aged in stainless steel for 6 months and in bottle for 1 to 2 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit with touches of flint and herbs. A very nice example of this type of wine. $29IMG_8818

Nero d’Avola “Donnatá” Sicily DOC 2013 100% Nero di Avola. The soil is rich in clay, limestone and potassium. The vines were planted in 2000. The vineyard is at 380 meters. The soil is clay and sand, training system is spurred cordon espalier and there are 4,400 vines per hectare. Harvest starts by hand, the first week of September. Maceration is for 12 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in stainless steel and a small part in big oak casks. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 months before release. This is an aromatic wine with hints of blackberries and cherries with a very pleasing finish and aftertaste.

Benedetto said that Nero d’Avola was the most important red grape variety in Sicily. $19IMG_8821

Syrah Kaid l IGT Sicily 2011 100% Syrah The soil is clay and chalk with an alkaline reaction. The vines were planted in 1989, the training is spurred cordon espalier and there are 4,400 plants per hectare. The grapes are picked by hand in the morning the first 20 days of September. Maceration is for 12 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 12 months in barriques and tonneaux and 6 months in bottle before release. This is a big wine, alcoholic with hints of cherry and black currants with a lot of vanilla, toasty oak and coconut. One of the wine writers present said that he likes the first 3 wines but this wine was out of balance and much too international in style. Benedetto agreed and said that starting with the next vintage 2012 they are using less barriques and more tonneaux and big oak casks .$25

He also said that Syrah is considered the “most Sicilian of the international grape varieties”.IMG_8822

Kaid “ Vendemmia Tardive” Late Harvest 2014 IGT Sicily 100% Syrah from a 1.5 hectare plot. The vineyard is at 400 meters and the vines were planted in 1989. Fermentation is for about 12 days at a low temperature. The wine is aged in Allier oak barriques for 15 months and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a dessert wine with nice rich forward fruit with hints of cherries, black currants and a touch of chocolate. It has a very pleasing aftertaste and a very long and complex finish. $35

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