I have known the dynamic Ilaria Petitto, CEO of Donnachiara Winery, for a number of years and have visited her winery on a few occasions. Recently Ilaria was in New York and invited me to a luncheon and tasting of her wines with the intriguing title of “Long Live Aglianico-Based Wines, Taurasi the King of Southern Italy.” The event was held at Gramercy Tavern in New York’s Flatiron District.
Illaria is a leading supporter of the wines of Campania and the wines of Irpinia in particular and is the Vice President of the Consorzio di Tutela dei Vini dell’Irpinia. She is also involved with Women in Wine.
Ilaria spoke about the Donnachiara Winery and their wines.
The winery is located in Montefalcione in the Irpinia area near Avellino. There are woods of chestnut, oak and juniper that alternate with olive trees, vines and fruit trees.
The modern winery was completed in 2005 but the vineyards have been in the family for over 150 years. Ilaria’s mother, Chiara Petitto, is a big supporter of her work in the winery, which is named after her mother’s grandmother, whom everyone called “Donna” Chiara as a sign of respect. Modern production began in 2005 . Donnachiara is a family business
The consulting oenologist at this time is the legendary Riccardo Cotarella.
It is the philosophy of the winery to preserve the traditional grape varieties of the local territory and to keep the character of the wines from being lost to the standardization of the wines on the market today. They also follow “Misura CE n.1257/99 – “Produzione integrata della Regione Campania,” limiting the use of some active ingredients that are harmful to the environment.
Agilianco
There are 3 biotypes of Aglianico: Taurasi, Vulture and Taburno. Aglianico has an uncle-nephew relationship to Syrah.
Aglianico is an ancient grape variety. In Italy, Aglianico was first planted near modern day Pozzuoli and from there it spread to other parts of Campania. Pliny the Elder (d.79AD) wrote about it in his Natural History. Wine made from Aglianico was called Falernian and was highly regarded by the Romans. The Aglianico grape was known as Elenico (Italian for Greek) until the 15 Century when it began to be called Aglianico. The name might also come from vita hellenica, Latin for Greek wine. The debate still goes on.
The Aglianico grape prefers volcanic soil and grows at altitudes of 300 to 500 meters. It is a black late-ripening grape. Aglianico is also used as a blending grape in Campania. It is at its best in Irpinia. Irpinia Aglianico was granted DOC in 2005. It must contain 85% Aglianico and 15% other red grapes.
Greco di Tufo (yellow), Finao di Avelliano(green) and Taurasi (red). DOCG Irpinia
Taurasi
There are many who believe that the three great grape varieties in Italy are Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Aglianico. Wines made from the Aglianico grape are full-bodied with good fruit, tannins, and hints of blackberries, leather and smoke.
Aglianico reaches its highest expression in the form of Taurasi, one of Italy’s great red wines, which can age for many years.
The Taurasi DOCG was formed in 1993 and was southern Italy’s first DOCG. Taurasi is a medieval city located within the larger Iripinia DOC and within the province of Avellino, Taurasi’s name comes from taurus, the mythical bull that was the symbol for the ancient Samnite (pre-Roman) occupants.
Taurasi DOCG and Taurasi Riserva DOCG by law must be 85% Aglianico but most producers make it with 100% Aglianico. Taurasi must age for 3 years before release and have a minimum of 12% alcohol. At least one of the 3 years must be in oak barrels. The Riserva must be aged for at least 4 years of which 18 months must be in oak barrels. 12.5% is the minimum alcohol.
There are 17 communes where Taurasi is produced and they cover different soils, vineyard altitudes and microclimates.
Campania Aglianico IGT 2022 made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, the training system is guyot and the harvest takes place in the first half of November. Malolatic fermentation takes place in barriques for 3 months. Ilaria said this is a fresh and pleasant wine due to a small number of “follature” (pumping overs) and to a short period of maceration on the skins. Malolactic fermentation is in barriques for 3 months. It is a wine that is elegant, warm and perfect with many different foods. The wine is fruity with hints of blackberries, strawberries and a touch of toast. This is a wine that should be drunk young.
Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2021. The soil is clay, the training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first two weeks in November. Fermentation takes place at 68 to 71F in stainless steel tanks for 15 days. Maturation is on the skins for 10 days. Malolactic fermentation is in barriques. The wine is full and complex with hints of prune, berries, spice and fig. Drink after 5 years or more.
Taurasi DOCG 2020 Made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay and volcanic. Training system is guyot. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and harvest takes place the first week of September. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225-liter French barriques and remains in the bottle for another 24 months before release. The use of barrique is subtle and does not mask the character of the wine. This is a big complex wine with berry aromas and flavors, hints of cherry, plum, and a touch of cacao and coffee. In general this vintage had a slightly lower crop than normal, but grapes were of good quality with nice acidity.
Taurasi DOCG 2019 Made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay and volcanic. Training system is guyot. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and harvest takes place the first half of of November. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225-liter French barriques and remains in the bottle for another 24 months before release. The use of barrique is subtle and does not mask the character of the wine. This is a big complex wine with berry aromas and flavors, hints of blueberries, plum, bitter chocolate a touch of leather and a hint of smoke.
Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2019 made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first half of November. This wine is produced only in the best vintages. There is manual grape picking, a careful cluster selection followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Maturation is on the skins for 20 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques. This is a full intense wine with hints of blackberry, blueberry a hint of smoke and coffee notes. It is on its way to becoming a great wine with a little more bottle age. The wine will last for at least 15 to 20 years.
2019 was an outstanding vintage with wonderful climatic conditions. There was a large crop and the wines have very good acidity.The wine has won many awards.
Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2018 made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay, training system is guyot and the harvest takes place the first half of November. This one is produced only in the best vintages. There is manual grape picking, a careful cluster selection followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Maturation is on the skins for 20 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barriques. This is a wine with hints of blackberry, plum, cherry and coffee notes.
The wines 2018 in general are unbalanced, with low acidity and the harvest was very small in size. However I did not find this with the 2018 Donnachiara Taurasi. While it may not last as long as the 2019, I would not drink it for at least 10 to 12 years.
Donnachiara also produces excellent white wines: Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino and Falanghina, all of which I have tasted and enjoyed on many occasions.
That night, there was a second event called “GI Gruppo Italiano Presents: ItalianTable Talks/Chapter 16 Irpinia: We Are Waiting For You.” It was held at the SVA Theater on 23rd Street. This included a discussion by a panel of experts on Irpinia followed by a wine tasting. It was organized by 
The producers, guests and panelists
Each panelist was presented with a plaque acknowledging their participation.
llaria Petitto with her Donnachiara Taurasi. I have visited the winery a few times.
Irpinia Falanghina
Greco di Tufo
Fiano di Avelliano from Teresa Petilia-I visited the winery a few years ago
Aglianico is an ancient grape variety. In Italy, Aglianico was first planted near modern day Pozzuoli and from there it spread to other parts of Campania. Pliny the Elder (d.79AD) wrote about it in his Natural History. The Aglianico grape prefers volcanic soil and grows at altitudes of 300 to 500 meters. Aglianico is also used as a blending grape in Campania. It is at its best in Irpinia.
Irpinia Aglianico was granted DOC in 2005. It must contain 85% Aglianico and 15% other red grapes.
Nativ, Irpinia Aglianico “Rue Dell’Inchiostro” Campania Aglianico DOC, 2020 made from 100% Aglianico grown at 450 to 550 meters. There are 15 hectares of wine, the soil is mostly volcanic with clay and limestone, rich in minerals. There is a trellis training system with spurred cordon in the new vineyards. Harvest is in the beginning of November.
Macchie Santa Maria, Irpinia Aglianico DOC, 2018 made from 15 year old vines at 400 to 450 meters. The training system is cordon. The soil is of a medium mixing tending toward stony clay. Exposure is southeast. Fermentation is 8 to 12 days in stainless steel tanks. Aging is for 12 months in French oak barriques. The wine has hints of black cherry, plum, spice and a hint of tobacco. The company is based in the town of Montemiletto
Ponterotto, Irpinia Aglianico DOC 2018 made from 100% Aglianico at 350 to 400 meters. The soil is clay and limestone and harvest is the first 10 days of November. Classic vinification in tanks, long maceration with the skins at a controlled temperature. The wine has hints of blackberries, spice with a touch of tobacco and a balsamic note.
Aglianico reaches its highest expression in the form of Taurasi, one of Italy’s great red wines, which can age for many years.
Ilaria Petitto CEO of Donnachiara Winery and Vice President of the Consorzio di Tutela dei Vini dell’Irpinia spoke about the winery and the wines. The winery is located in Montefalcione in the Irpinia area near Avellino. The modern winery was completed in 2005 but the vineyards have been in the family for over 150 years. Ilaria’s mother, Chiara Petitto, is a big supporter of her work in the winery, which is named after her mother’s grandmother whom everyone called “Donna” Chiara as a sign of respect.
Donnachiara, Taurasi DOCG 2019 Made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay and volcanic. Training system is guyot. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and harvest takes place the first week of September. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225-liter French barriques and remains in the bottle for another 24 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberry, plum, cherry and a touch of cacao. The use of barrique is subtle and does not mask the character of the wine. This is a big complex wine with berry aromas and flavors, hints of cherry, plum, and a touch of cacao and coffee.
Feudi Di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG 2017 made from 100% Aglianico in uncontaminated volcanic soil. The vines are 20 to 25 years old. Vineyards are at 1,000 to 1,600 ft with a southern and western exposure. Soil is ash and fallen pumice and in the subsoil deep layers of silty sand. Harvest is manual. Fermentation and maceration is in stainless steel tanks, at a controlled temperature
Fratelli Addimanda Vignaioli in Taurasi “Starse” Taurasi DOCG 2014 made from 100% Aglianico. The vineyards are at 350 to 400 meters and the exposure is east-west. The soil is clay calcareous and the training system
Teresa Bruno Di Petilia, President, and Ilaria Petitto, the Vice President of the Conzorzio Tutela Vini d’Irpinia invited me to a tasting of the wines of Irpinia at Il Gattopardo NYC. The event was called “Spectacular Irpinia.”
The speaker was Susannah Gold, who did an excellent job of sharing her knowledge of the wines of Irpinia through her talk and slide presentation. We tasted 6 white wines and 6 reds. This blog will deal with the 6 whites.
Fiano Di Avellino “Alimata” 2018.
Fiano Di Avellino “Eclissi” 2018 Case d’Alto made from 100% Fiano di Avellino from a 2 hectare vineyard in Grottaminarda. The soil is clay and calcareous. The wine has hints of apple, yellow fruit, lemon and a note of fresh hazelnuts
Fiano Di Avellino Riserva
Greco di Tufo 2021 Historia Antiqua made from 100% Fiano di Avellino. The winery was started in the 1990’s and and was at first a Consortium.
Greco di Tufo ‘Quattro Venti’ Riserva 2020 Petilia Made from 100% Fiano di Avellino. The vineyards are in Chianche, locality of Sant’Andrea (Altavilla). The vineyards are at 600 meters, the exposure is south/east and there are 4,000 plants per hectare. The soil is clayey, volcanic, and rich in minerals with a sumptuous subsoil and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. The vines are 20 years old. Harvest takes place the second week of October. There is ultra soft pressing with whole grapes and fermentation in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine has citrus notes, hints of almonds, lemon blossoms and quince.
Greco di Tufo ‘Vigna Laure” 2020 Riserva Cantina Di Marzo Made from100% Greco di Tufo from a 5 hectare vineyard with a south-southwest exposure. Vines were planted in 2008 and 2010. Laure vineyard is on a rock which is on top of an old sulphur mine. The grapes are hand harvested toward the end of October. Destemming takes place
