Monthly Archives: March 2024

March 25, 2024 · 2:03 am

Fattorie Isola: Organic Sardinian Wines

A few weeks ago Michele and I were in Florence for the day and met with Elisa Bosco. We have know Elisa, who is an export communications consultant for wineries for a number of years. Elisa wanted to tell us about a winery she represents in Sardinia and leave us some samples.  It’s always a pleasure to see her, catch up and try some of the wines she represents.

The Winery

Fattorie Isola was founded in 2018 by Luigi Cuccaru with the help of the oenologist Renzo Panetto. It is based in Sardinia in the province of Sassari, municipality of Sorso, locality of Tres Montes, an area well suited for the cultivation of organic grapes. There are 8.5 hectares of vineyards.

All the wines are certified organic and they use as little SO2 as possible to ensure the stability and longevity of the wine. The alcoholic fermentation and all the oenological practices to obtain the wines respect the protocols provided for in EU Regulation 203/2012 for organic wines.

The Wines

Sardegna Semidano Superiore 2023 DOP made from 100% Semidano. There is a short cold maceration of the must before fermentation. This a fragrant fruity white wine with hints of peach, apricot, floral notes and fresh acidity. It is a native white grape from central Sardegna (Campidano). Semidano almost disappeared during the 80’s, but then, especially thanks to the work of Fattorie Isola’s oenologist, it was preserved. However it is a very limited production and today there are just a few hectares in the whole island (less than 14), and only a few producers who make wines from this grape. I have to thank Elisa for introducing me to this wine. $15

Vermentino DI Sardegna 2023 DOP made from 100% Vermentino grapes left on the vine until the end of September so the grapes are very ripe. The soil is sandy, clayey and loamy and the average age of the vines is 25 years. There are 4,000 vines per hectare.  Training system is guyot. Hand harvest with sorting of the grapes in the field into boxes and the grapes are cooled to +5° C for 48 hours before vinification, with a further 12 hours of cold maceration of the skins after pressing. Fermentation is in 100 HL stainless steel tanks with selected yeast. Malolactic fermentation does not take place.  Aging is in steel tanks. $24

Cannonau DI Sardegna. 2022  DOP made from 100% Cannonau grapes harvested well ripeened at the end of summer.  Vineyards are at 150 meters and the soil is granite. The harvest is manual in boxes and the grapes are cooled to +10/12°C before vinification to slow down the start of fermentation. The vinification takes place in thermo-conditioned containers with maceration of the skins for 14/15 days. The wine has hints of cherries, raisins, myrtle and a hint of liquorice.    $15

Cannonau Di Sardegna 2021 DOP Riserva made from 100% Cannonau.  These grapes are grown organically in the LUIGI CUCCARU vineyard in Tres Montes in the municipality of Sorso (SS) IT. One year after vinification, the wine is aged in oak tonneaus for approximately 6/8 months before being bottled. The wine has hints of morello cherries, raisins, myrtle and a touch of vanilla. $20

They also make a Rosato DOP from Cannonau di Sardegna grapes and a Spumante Brut “Kessa” DOP from Vermentino di Sardegna grapes.

For more information on the winery and the wines contact:

ElisaBosco.Wine

Export & Communication Consulting

eb@elisabosco.wine

ITA +39 334 1588164

USA +1 646 593 8886

http://www.elisabosco.wine

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Filed under Cannonau, Fattorie Isola, Semidano, Vermentino

March 14, 2024 · 9:27 pm

 Supper with Daniele Cernilli “Doctor Wine”

One of the highlights of my visits to Rome is the opportunity to see old friends like Daniele Cernilli (Doctor Wine) and Marina Thompson, his wife.  This year, they invited Michele and I to their home for a light supper with some special wines.

Daniele is one of the world’s foremost experts on Italian wine and is the author of The Essential Guide to Italian Wine which is updated annually.  Pictured above is the 10th edition, published for 2024. The book is my go-to reference book for Italian wines since, as Daniele said, “All the wines worth drinking are in the pages of this guide.”  Both Italian and English versions of the book are available.


GT Ravenna Bianco 2011 “Tergeno” Fattoria Zerbina made from 6% Albano late harvest, 34% Albano secco, and 50% Chardonnay from different vineyards with different training systems and different quantities of vines per hectare. Part of the Albano is fermented in barriques while the remainder ferments in stainless steel. The wine was aged for 12 months in stainless steel and barriques and then 6 months in bottle before release.

The wine was not showing any signs of age. It was rich and opulent with hints of citrus and tropical fruits.  Daniele picked this vintage to go with our foie gras appetizer, a perfect match.

The style of this wine has been changed over the years.  Since 2014, it is a completely different wine and even the label is different from the bottle we tasted.

Tergeno was introduced in 1991 as a blend of three wines: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer. After five years as a dry wine they found the results achieved with the Albano grape affected by noble rot was very good.  So they decided to  produce a version in the late harvest style, using a selection of Albano harvested late with  botrytis combined with a part of Chardonnay and vinified as a dry white.

Thanks to botrytis, the wine acquires a very distinct and unique personality. Starting from the 2014 harvest this wine is 100% Albano, with 30% late harvested.  Today the fermentation is in stainless steel and the wine is aged in stainless steel and 6 months in bottle before release.

.Castellucci Miano DOC Valledolmo-Contea di Sclafani-Sicily “Shiara” Bianco 2012  made of 100% Catarratto from 30/40  years old vines located on the slopes of the Madonie Montains at 700/900 meters.   Training system is alberello and sapling, the pruning is guyot and spur.  Soil is half sand and clay with an alkaline reaction due to active limestone. Harvest takes place in October. White wine vinification with fermentation at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine remains in stainless steel for 6 months and then in bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints a citrus fruit, apple, and pear with a touch of cantaloupe and crisp acidity $35.  Catarratto is a grape indigenous to Sicily. I tasted the 2019 last year with the US importer, Tony Margiotta of Gladiator wines. As Daniele said, this is a white wine that can age.

Smoked salmon served with toast points and French butter

Foie Gras Bloc

Roasted Marinated Yellow  Peppers

Barbaresco DOCG 2016 ‘Manzola”   Nada Fiorenzo made from Nebbiolo (Lampia and Michet) from Manzola in the commune of Treiso in Piedmont. The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is calcareous-clayey with sandy outcrops. Exposure is  southwest at 230 meters. Manual harvest followed  by a soft pressing of the grapes and separate vinification for each single parcel. There are no herbicides and other invasive vine protection products used and a return to old practices such as hand-hoeing.  Aging is in oak for 24 months and in bottle for 6 months before release.  The wine has hints of cherry, licorice, leather, tea and a hint of spice. It is a wine that can age.

Baked eggplant with tomato and mozzarella was our main course.

Vinsanto del Chianti Classico 2013 Fontodi in half bottle made from Malvasia and Sangiovese from various vineyards within the property.  There are 3,500 to 6,000 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. The grapes are naturally dried for 5 months after harvest. After the pressing, the must is racked into chestnut and oak barrels of 50 and 110 liters where aging takes place for at least 6 years. There are only 3,000 bottles produced. Fontodi is located in Panzano in Chianti. This is an excellent dessert wine with hints of hazelnut, dried apricot, honey and a touch of caramel.

Tiramisu — A classic version that Daniele highly recommended

I always enjoy seeing Daniele and Marina and I always learn something new.

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Filed under Barbaresco, Daniele Cernilli, Daniele Cernilli Doctor Wine

March 8, 2024 · 11:24 pm

Lunch Overlooking the Colosseum

A few years ago, Iris Carulli, a mutual friend introduced Michele and I to Maureen Fant. Until that time, we knew of Maureen only by her writings as an Italian food expert and author of several books about Italian food and history.  A native New Yorker, Maureen has lived in Rome for many years and describes herself as a “lapsed classicist.”  Currently, she is the coprincipal of Elifant Archaeo-Culinary Tours.

Recently, Maureen and her husband Franco Filippi invited Michele and I and a group of friends for lunch in her apartment overlooking the Colosseum in Rome.

Maureen did all the cooking with a little help from her friends and the wines were supplied by Maureen’s husband Franco.

Maureen (second left), Franco (far right), and some of the guests sipping welcome glasses of Ca’del Bosco spumante before the antipasto which included fresh cheeses, marinated carrots, dried tomatoes, olives, marinated anchovies, and many other savory bites.

Franciacorta  DOCG  Extra Brut 2018 Vintage Collection Ca’ del Bosco (Lombardia) made from 65%  Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco and 30% Pinot Nero from 27 certified organic vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and each individual bunch is washed and dried. Fermentation takes place for 5 months in oak barrels. The wine remains on the yeasts for an average of 48 months. This is an elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, apple and pear lemon and a touch of pineapple. One of my favorites.

Vino Spumante Brut Metodo Classico Stefanini (Lazio) made from 100% Rossetto. White wine vinification with selected yeasts in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine spends 24 months on the lees. This was a first for me. I did not know the wine or the producer. It is a full bodied spumante with hints of citrus fruit, floral notes, a touch of almonds and nice minerality.

Garganelli con sugo di cipolle — pasta with onion sauce

Barolo Bussia Giacomo Fenocchio 2018 100% Nebbiolo varieties Michet and Lampia. Monforte d’Alba-Sottozone Bussia (Piemonte).  From a 5 hectare vineyard facing south/southwest at 300 meters. The soil is Helvetian with clayey and calcareous sediments, rich in iron. The vines are 30 years old. Traditional natural fermentation without added yeasts for 40 days in stainless steel tanks. The wine ages for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 30 months in large Slavonian casks 35 to 50 hl. It remains in the bottle a time before release. This is a classic Barolo with hints of spice, licorice, roses, tar and tea. I visited the winery a few years ago and have always enjoyed their wines.

Roasted Pork Loin with Pancetta and Herbs

Negroamaro Salento IGP Rosso  2013 “Patriglione” Cosimo Taurino made from 100% Negramaro from 40 to 50 year old vines. The vineyard is 15 hectares with a east/west exposure, flat elevation and the soil is calcareous. There are 6,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred Apulian small trees. The grapes are picked late the second week of October. The fermentation tanks are vitrified concrete and there is an automatic cooling system. Fermentation is for 10/15 days with 8/12 days skin contact.This is a wine that will age for many years. It has hints of dry black fruit, blackberries blueberries, prune and raisins. I have been drinking the wines from Cosimo Taurino for many years.


On the plate.  Roast pork loin, mashed potatoes, braised artichokes and pearl onions agrodolce.

Our dessert was made by another guest, Susan Westmoreland.

It was a rich and spicy ginger cake served with braised apples and whipped cream.

Thank you Maureen and Franco for a delicious Roman meal with great friends!

 

 

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Filed under Giacomo Fennochio, Maureen Fant, Puglia, Spumante