Monthly Archives: June 2026

June 29, 2026 · 1:40 am

Tasting Paolo Manzone Wines with an Old Friend

Bob Shack of HB Wine Merchants is an old friend that I had not seen for a number of years. Recently, he wrote and invited me to meet him at Nonna Dora’s Tribeca for a tasting and lunch.  The wines were from Paolo Manzone Winery in Piedmont, Italy, which I have visited,

Jairo Gustavo Neira is a  winemaker and enologist who works alongside owner Paolo Manzone at the winery.  I knew Jairo from his days in NYC and it was nice to see him again. He spoke about the winery and the wines.

Paolo Manzone and his wife Luisella own and operate the estate located in Serralunga d’Alba and they farm 14 hectares of vineyards. The winery and house are located entirely in the Cru Meriame di Serralunga. The land and vineyards have been handed down from father to son for generations and the production ranges from Dolcetto d’Alba, to Barbera d’Alba, to Nebbiolo d’Alba to Barolo Gavi and  Arneis. The estate consists of hand tended vines with full regard to the traditional methods realizing the quality is made by the vines.

The Paolo Manzone Wines

Roero Arneis 2023 “Reysu” made from 100% Arneis from Corneliano D’Alba/Canale-Roero. The vineyards are at 400 meters and the exposure is southeast. Loose sandy soil with veins of tuff. There  is a soft pressing of selected whole bunches in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. Battonage is used during fermentation on the lees to enhance complexity. This wine is straw yellow with beautiful green reflections. The wine has hints of green apple, nectarine and peach with a long and pleasant finish.  Bob Shack said that this is one of the best Arneis he had ever tasted and I agreed with him.

Acciughe Marinate-marinated fresh anchovies

Gavi made from 100% Cortese grapes grown in vineyards within the township of Gavi in Piedmont. Hand harvested grapes are where the first selections are made.  They are then carried to the winery in 20 Kg bins to insure they arrive fully intact. The grapes are sorted and carefully crushed. This is followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Fermentation is followed by maturation on the fine lees for several months before the wine is finally bottled. Crisp and refreshing with hints of citrus  citrus, green apple, a hint of almond and bright acidity with a clean, mineral finish..

Panzerotti — Baby Calzones filled with San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella

Langhe Rosso 2022 “Ardi” made from Barbera and Dolcetto from Estate Vineyards.  The vineyard is 400 meters in elevation facing South East.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. First produced in 2008 from the area of Sinio, part of the wine is stainless steel aged while the other part spends time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, plums and a touch of spice with a smooth, long and pleasant finish.

Homemade Tagliatelle with Mushrooms & Salsa Tartufata

Nebbiolo D’Alba 2022 Mirine’ made from 100% Nebbiolo. The soil is clay and limestone at 400 meters with a southeast exposure.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation.  The wine has hints of cherry and dark berry notes combined with dried cranberry, spice and light cocoa aromas. Full in body with soft tannins and good acidity to keep it fresh leading to a flavorful finish.

Malloreddus–Saffron seasoned pasta with sausage and tomato ragu

Barolo Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba 2019 Made from 100% Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo grapes are sourced exclusively from vineyards within the commune of Serralunga d’Alba, known for producing some of Barolo’s most powerful wines.The exposure is southwest and the soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with extended maceration to extract structure and aromatics. The wine is aged for 38 months of which 24 months is in large Slavonian oak barrels.  The rest of the time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of cherries, red plum, licorice, tar, a note of rose pedal and a touch of spice. The finish is long, persistent, and classically Serralunga in its strength and intensity.

Gnocchi – Basil and Pinoli pesto

Barolo Meriame 2019 made from 100% Nebbiolo from a severe selection of the best fruit from the cru vineyard at 350 meters. The soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation is in stainless steel and then 90% of the wine is aged in 15 Hl Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months and 10% in French oak tonneaux. This is a bold complex wine with hints of blackberries, blueberries, licorice, a touch of tea and a hint of spice.

I enjoyed seeing Bob again and having a chance to discuss the wines with Jairo.  These are all food-friendly wines and they matched up nicely with the appetizers and fresh pastas at Nonna Dora’s.

 

 

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June 18, 2026 · 2:04 am

A Special Lunch with Good Friends

Last week we gathered a group of old friends for a long overdue luncheon at our home.  It wasn’t a particularly special occasion — we were just glad to get together.

We started with Champagne

Champagne Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Reserve Special Edition made from 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier from 50% reserve wines.  Of the 60 Champagne crus chosen to produce this cuvée, 3 are pillars of the Réserve style — Oger: (Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs) gives it its fleshy and generous notes, Ambonnay: (Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims) is synonymous with power, structure and fruity notes. Verneuil: (Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne) ensures its balance and smooth texture.  Vinification is done varietal by varietal in stainless steel vats with 5 to 10% of the wine vinified in old Burgundy barrels.  This Champagne has hints of freshly baked brioche, mango, apricot, plum, dried fruits with a touch of pistachio and almond.

Smoked Salmon Dip with Salmon Caviar and Toasts went well with the Champagne.

Greci di Tufo Riserva  2008 “ Vittorio”  Di Meo 100% Greco di Tufo from Montefusco (AV) at 750 meters.  This wine bears the name of Vittorio Di Meo, who founded the winery.  The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is clay and limestone with steep slopes on a gradient greater than 20% with a north/east exposure. There are 3,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. Harvest is the second  week of October from slightly overripe grapes. There is maceration on the skins followed by fermentation  at a controlled temperature for 12 years, then 24 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of beeswax, honey, cedar, apple, a touch of flint with good acidity and minerality. The producer refers to the wine as warm and enchanting and I have to agree.

In the early 1980’s Erminia, Generoso, and Roberto Di Meo acquired this historical estate from their parents. The estate is located in the province of Avellino in the area of Salza Irpinia and covers 25 hectares most of which is vineyards. In 1986 they produced their first wines and the Di Meo winery was born.

I visited the estated back in 2016 as part of a Campania Stories Wine Press trip.  Over the last few years I have had the great pleasure of tasting and drinking this great wine.

Bleu Cheese Flan with Arugula Salad — Mild and creamy bleu with creme fraiche and cream cheese with a lightly dressed salad.  Served on a one of our many souvenir plates from the Unione di Buon Ricordo restaurant, Rome’s Trattoria Checchino dal 1887

Chateau Lynch Bages “Pauillac” 1986  made from 73% Cabernet Sauvignon,  15% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot . This is a traditional  classic Bordeaux with hints of black cherries, blackberries, blueberries, black currants (cassis), cedar, tobacco, and cigar box. The winery has changed hands since 1986 so I am not sure how the wine was produced except that it was wonderful.

Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumbs and Sugar Snaps

Provencal Style Tian — Layered potatoes, zucchini, and tomatoes baked with Parmigiano Reggiano

Double Lamb Chops with Buttered  Sugar  Snaps  and  Vegetable  Tian

Lemon Ice with Pistachio BiscottiEspresso coffee with Pistacchio Biscotti

We finished with Grappa Capo Di Stato

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June 9, 2026 · 2:55 am

Lunch at Mozzarella & Vino NYC

Before our trip to Rome this winter, Michele and I had dinner with a friend at Mozzarella & Vino.  It’s a more casual version of Il Gattopardo located just down the street.  We enjoyed it so much and looked forward to an opportunity to go for lunch.

As always we were greeted by Paula Bolla Sorrentino, the Managing Partner.  Later Vito Gnazzo, the Chef Partner came over to discuss the menu.

We started with an assortment of antipasti, including Arancini Di Melanzane

Crisp fried rice balls filled with roasted eggplant and provola cheese on tomato sauce.

We also shared an order of Polpette di Carne

Veal and pork meatballs in herbed tomato sauce

And we couldn’t resist the M&V Tasting

which included mozzarella di bufala Campana, smoked provola and burrata Pugliese, with sweet cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil and toasted bread.

Next we shared the Ragú Napoletano

Mezze maniche pasta with slow coked Neapolitan ragú of pork ribs, beef short ribs, pecorino cheese, tomatoes and fresh basil

Our friend ordered the Salmone

Pacific salmon, pan-seared with white wine and dill, served with sautéed spinach

I couldn’t resist the Neapolitan-style Meatloaf

Filled with prosciutto, salami, boiled egg, pecorino and parsley, served with mashed potatoes. This was on the menu at Il Gattopardo and it was my favorite. They took it off a few years ago and now I am happy to say it is back at Mozzarella & Vino.

There is an extensive wine list with many of my favorite Italian wines to choose from.  Mozzarella & Vino also hosts a series of wine dinners featuring important producers from all over Italy who discuss their wines and guide guests in tastings.

With our lunch, we drank

Barbaresco  2009 Castello DI Neive made from 100% Nebbiolo which was drinking very well.

We ended our meal on a sweet note with

Torta Mascarpone Tiramisu

Located on the ground floor of a 5-story townhouse on West 54th Street, Mozzarella & Vino is directly across the street from the Museum of Modern Art. In the daytime  with its fresh airy look and  so much light coming in you would think you were sitting outside!

The restaurant is open all day and it’s the perfect spot any time of the day for an aperitivo, lunch, dinner and even breakfast.  We’ll be back again soon!

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June 1, 2026 · 2:09 am

Pairing Chablis Wines with Food

 

 

The invitation read, “The Bourgogne Wine Board is delighted to invite you to a  press dinner celebrating the diversity of Chablis wine and its pairing  with food.”  The event took place at the Time Square EDITION Hotel in NYC on its elegant terrace and outdoor gardens on the 9th floor.

The speaker was Amy Racine, Beverage Director & Partner/IF Restaurants and she spoke about Chablis and the food parings.

All Chablis is made exclusively from 100% Chardonnay and comes only from France. The region of Chablis is located in the northernmost part of Burgundy. Chablis is a town and commune in the Yonne Department in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté in north-central France. It lies in the valley of the River Serein. The vineyards are grown across a relatively small area of about 20 kilometers from north to south and around 15 from east to west. The major city closest to Chablis is Auxerre, located about 12 miles (20 km) west.

At the event we tasted wines across four appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Crus and Chablis Grand Crus, with food prepared by Michelin Star Chef John Fraser.

 Chablis producers want to emphasize the terroir of the calcareous soil and the cooler climate that helps to maintain the high acidity of Chablis. Together with the use of stainless steel, that is what helps to make Chablis one of the best expressions of the Chardonnay grape. It also makes them very excellent food wines.

Chablis and Food Pairings

Petit Chablis 2024 Daniel Dampt & Fils. The winery in Chablis northern Bourgogne is more than 150 years old. With 10 hectares (25 acres) of Chablis Premier Cru vineyards, 12 hectares (30 acres) of Petit Chablis vineyards and some from the Chablis Grand Cru appellation, the family domaine manages its vineyards sustainably to protect the environment and safeguard the natural characteristics of the Chardonnay grape. The soil in the 0.5 hectare vineyard is clay-limestone. It is light and well drained with plateau exposure.  Traditional cultivation with careful vineyard management with double Guyot pruning.  There are 5,000 plants per hectare. The average age of the vines is 10 years. Vinification is in  thermoregulated stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and typicality of  the Chardonnay. There is a pneumatic pressing followed by a temperature controlled fermentation. Everything from harvest to bottling is done on the estate. The wine is aged in stainless steel  for several months before it is bottled.

This was the lightest of the wines  with hints of citrus, vibrant, meant to be drunk young. This was served with Lobster Beignet and Kaluga Caviar in small bites.

Petit-Chablis 2023 Isabella et Denis Pommier. Denis Pommier took over the 2 hectares of family land and planted vineyards over the years. Today their are 23 hectare of vines, Petit Chablis, Chablis Premier Chablis Cru and Bourgogne appellation areas. The soil is limestone and clay on plateau sites. These higher altitude plots are mainly composed of Portlandian and limestone based soils. Average age of the vines is 15/25 years. Organic farming practices and certified organic since 2014. The harvest is mechanical. Alcoholic formation takes place with native yeasts and malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is on the lees for 6 months and there is a light fining. Aging is in stainless steel tanks for about 12 months and then the wine is bottled.

The wine has hints of citrus fruit  green apple, white flowers along with good good acidity which made it an excellent match the mousse-like goat cheese “tart.”

Chèvre Tart – Pistachio, rhubarb, pumpernickel, and mâche

Chablis 2024 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard.  This family estate was founded in 1973 by Jean Marc Brocard, now joined by his son Julien. There are almost 200 hectares of which 66 are certified organic. The soil is Kimmenidgia clay-limestone rich in mineral fossils typical of Chablis. Parcels located around the village of Préhy with a southern exposure.  Organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard to preserve the natural ecosystem. There are 5,700 plants per hectare and the average age of the vines is 30 years. There is a pneumatic pressing of the grapes and a cold settling. Alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts in thermoregulated stainless steel tanks. This is followed by a complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 7 to 9 months.

The classic expression of Chablis, this wine was crisp, aromatic with  citrus fruit, lemon and a touch of toasted almond. It was a perfect match with the refreshing razor clam ceviche.

Razor Clam Ceviche – Celery, melon, horseradish

Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaudevey 2023 Domaine Laroche. Domaine La Laroche was founded in 1850 and is one of the largest holders of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. They still produce and age their wines in the historic headquarters, known as The Obèdiencerie. Founded in 1850, Domaine Laroche has led movements to raise the quality of the appellation with the creation of a charter of excellence for the Grand Cru producers.  Les Vaudeve  is located in a cool and narrow valley. Sun appears in the early morning and lasts until mid-afternoon. The ripening of grapes is slow, which helps aromas to concentrate and preserve acidity. One single plot of almost 10 hectares has no more than 5 producers crafting wines from this Cru. Sorting takes place at the entrance of the cellar. Then a gentle pressing of the grapes at low pressure to extract press core only. Fermentation is in French oak barrels (15%) and in stainless steel (85%). Aged 12 months in the same containers on fine lees. After the blending, a new maturing on fine lees will take place until bottling.

This is a wine with hints of citrus fruit, green apple and a touch of vanilla.

Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre 2023 Domaine William Fevre  Is one of the largest owners of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. Founded in1959 it is now part of the Lafite group. An appellation of 43 hectares on the right bank of the Serein, extending from the Grands Crus Les Clos and Blanchot. With a geological structure similar to the Grands Crus and a very good exposure, this terroir ranks among the greatest of the Premiers Crus. Wine making uses the application of the principle of gravity to avoid any pumping, which could alter the quality of the wine. Short-duration pneumatic pressing (1h30 to 2h00) for a delicate separation between the solid and liquid parts of the grapes. Very light static settling to retain enough fine lees for the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations to occur naturally. The vinifications are carried out in stainless steel vats. Aging lasts 19 months, including 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 35% of the blend with a minority in new oak.The aging process finishes in small stainless steel tanks.

This is a more complex wine, with hints of lemon, green apple,  minerality, a touch of chalk and a hint of flint. The wine will age. It was very daring for the chef to pair it with an Italian pasta but it worked.

Sweet Pea Agnolotti – Fennel soubise, pancetta, lion’s mane mushrooms, nasturtium

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2019 J. Moreau & Fils founded in 1814. this is one of the historic in Chablis. From among the seven prestigious climates located in the commune of Chablis, the 11.92 hectares of Valmur stretch across a “valley” at the heart of the appellation, running alongside that of Vaudésir as well as Grenouilles and Les Clos. Its location, offering subtle variations of exposition and altitude, enable more varied wines to be produced here than in the other vineyards. Moreau’s selection concerns 2 ha of the vineyard. Chalky scree slopes overlying Kimmeridgian marl. The soil is heavy and is strewn with small fossilized oysters known as “Exogyra Virgula.”  The grapes come from a select plot of old vines.  Both grapes and must were brought in  together. There is a long pneumatic pressing followed by a static settling. Alcoholic fermentation began in stainless steel tanks using selected yeasts. After 3 days, 10% of the juice was transferred to fine-grained barrels of selected origin. Alcoholic fermentation was complete in 10 days.  Selected yeasts were added to induce malolactic fermentation in mid-October.  Malolactic fermentation was complete by mid-November. Aging for about 18 months.  The barrel-fermented wine was stirred weekly while the tank-fermented wine was stirred twice a month.

This was the most concentrated and complex of the wines with hints of grapefruit, lemon a touch a honey and a note of vanilla. The  wine  will age for a number of years.  It  paired well with the next course of sole and its accompaniments.

NY Sole – White asparagus, young leek, zucchini blossom, foie gras mousse, brown butter crumble.

I enjoyed this rare opportunity to sample a range of Chablis and explore the possibilities of pairing Chablis with a variety of foods.

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