Category Archives: Barolo

April 23, 2026 · 2:29 am

Pizza and Old Barolo at Song ‘E Napule

Every time we visit our friend in New Jersey he wants to go to Song’E Napule in Rutherford for Pizza. Michele and I are only to happy to go with him as it is one of our favorite places for Pizza and he always brings a great old Barolo.

We started with Insalata Di Polpo:  chilled Mediterranean octopus, with organic parsley and lemon citronette dressing.  Tender octopus with arugula in a tangy dressing, it was a light and refreshing start.

Then the Pizza

Marinara — Tomato Sauce Slow Food (san Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil (no cheese). With my addition of anchovies.

Pizza Napoletana –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), anchovies, basil, oregano and extra virgin olive oil. This is Michele’s favorite.

Cotto E Funghi — Tomato sauce Slow Food (san Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), prosciutto cotto (ham), mushrooms, basil and extra virgin olive oil. Our friend ordered this one.

Barolo 1996 “Monprivato” Giuseppe  Mascarello E Figlio. Made from 100% Nebbiolo. This is a Classic Barolo. Big and complex with hints of tobacco, leather, licorice, roses and deep dark fruit. It is a great wine made in a great year and 1996 for Barolo may be the best vintage in the last 30 years.

Song’ E Napule is located at 106 Park Ave, Rutherford NJ  (201) 347-9339. They also have three locations in Manhattan.

A taste of Napoli in New Jersey with great wine and good friends — that’s Song’ E Napule.

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Filed under Barolo, Pizza, PizzaE'Napoli, Song E'Napoli, Uncategorized

January 15, 2026 · 3:11 am

OLD WINES WELCOME THE NEW YEAR

Thanks to the kindness of friends, since the beginning of the New Year I have been able to drink a number of older Italian wines and one French wine paired with excellent food.

Barolo 1979 Marcarini made from 100% Nebbiolo. This wine was made when legendary Elvio Cogno was the winemaker.  Some of the best classic traditional wines that it has been my pleasure to drink were produced by Cogno. When I visited the Marcarini winery in 1985, I spoke with him and he said he made a better Barolo in 1979 than in 1978!  This is a classic Barolo with flavors and aromas of faded roses, licorice, tar, tobacco, a hint of cherry and a slight touch of white truffles.

We had it with Braised Black Lentils with Cotechino.  This is a classic dish to celebrate the New Year in Italy.  Cotechino is a delicately spiced pork sausage encased in pork skin which gives it a rich flavor and creamy texture unlike other sausages.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1985 Emidio Pepe 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. The winery is organic and Bio-Dynamic. They belong to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists. Both the tendone method and the cordon spur method are used for training the vines. In vintages when the weather is very hot the tendone method is better because the leaves form a canopy to protect the grapes from the sun.  When the weather is not too hot, the cordon spur is better because it allows more sun and air to reach the grapes. One hectare of tendone has 900 vines and produces 90 quintals of grapes.  That means that each vine produces from 6 to 9 kilos of grapes. In one hectare of cordon spur trained grapes there are 3,300 vines and each vine produces 5 to 6 kilos of grapes. The grapes are crushed by hand and the juice placed in glass-lined cement tanks of 20/25 liters. Only natural yeasts are used, there is no filtration or fining. The wine is transferred to the bottle by hand and the corks are placed in the bottles by hand. This is a a great wine with deep red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of cherry, spice, leather a touch of tobacco and  a trace of smoke. We drank it with Bucatini all’ Amatriciana.  A classic from Rome and Abruzzo, thick strands of bucatini pasta are sauced with rich tomato sauce made with guanciale, sharp pecorino cheese and a hint of chile.

Burgundy 2002 Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru (On the Cote de Beaune) Robert Ampeau & Fils made from 100% Chardonnay. 2002 was a great vintage in Burgundy. This is old style Burgundy. The wine are aged for years in the cellars before release. This not only gives them incredible complexity but makes them ready to drink on release. There is natural ground cover in the vineyard. In the winery there is a minimal use of new oak.  The fermenters are concrete which gives the wine a certain depth and purity. This is a complex rich wine with hints of white peach, pineapple, baked apple, creme brûlée, honey. citrus and a touch of almonds. A very impressive white wine.

I had it with grilled jumbo shrimp served on a bed of spinach and white beans flavored with garlic.  Simple and delicious.

Barolo Antico  1996 Giacomo Borgogno  This Barolo in made with Nebbiolo grapes from the vineyard identified in the local land registry as parcel number 81 of the ninth sheet of the Commune of Barolo. This vineyard, part of the Liste area, was the first one acquired by the house of Borgogno whose origin dates back to 1761. It is a particular sunny site and thanks to its own special microclimate the fruit is the last to be picked every year. This selection is made only in truly great vintages is produced in strictly limited quantities (around 4,00 bottles).  For this presentation the winery went back to the historic label which was in used during the second half of the 17th century. This bottle is #3,320. Classic Barolo with hints of of dark fruit, cherry, licorice and touch a spice and a note of roses.

We had it with roasted pork loin, green beans, red cabbage and roast potatoes.

Barbaresco “Ovello” 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco made from 100% Nebbiolo.  The Ovello vineyard covers an area of 16.25 acres at 290 meters with a south/southeastern exposure.  The 1996 Ovello Riserva, has on the label the name of the single vineyard, the number of bottles produced (18,145) and the names of the vineyard owners: Cravanzola, Gonella, Maffei, Vacca, Varaldo. The wine was aged in large barrels of Slavonic oak for four years.  It has hints of black raspberries, cherries, leather, tea and a touch of spice. It was showing very well and will age for a number of years. .Produttori del Barbaresco is a wine cooperative, arguably the best in Italy. This is traditional classic Barbaresco at its best.

We had it with sweet and hot Italian sausages roasted with peppers, potatoes and onions,

Barolo 1967  Oddero made from 100% Nebbiolo. This wine was drinking very well and despite its age, it seemed like a much younger wine.  It had hints of red fruit, cherry, a note of spice and a touch or tobacco.

We had this with Chinese food including Stir fried chicken with cashew nuts and green peppers

Two days later we opened another bottle of the 1967 and it was not drinkable.

Barolo “ Marcenasco” 1970 Ratti. Antica Cantina Della Abbazia dell’ Annunziata. Marcenasco is a historic sub-zone in La Morra. The wine was aged in large oak casks of 2,500 liters to 5,000 liters, It has hints of spice, licorice, tobacco and dried herbs. It was drinkable but really showing its age.

We had it with cheese.  On the left is a wedge of 4 year old Red Cow  Parmigiano-Reggiano, the center piece is a 2-year old Brown Cow Parmigiano-Reggiano and the wedge on the right is a young pecorino Toscano.

Barolo 1964 Calissano Riserva Speciale the wine had hints of mushrooms, tea, sage, and herbs.  Unfortunately the winery no longer exists.

We had it with our starter of fried pork dumplings at a Chinese restaurant and it went very well.

Chinese fried pork dumplings

 

Marsala  Vergine Secco Riserva “Terre Arse” 1998 Florio made from 100% Grillo.  The soil is arid, scarcely fertile of siliceous-calcareous origin.  Vineyards facing the sea near the beach with typical Marsala bush-trained vines with density of at least 5,000 plants per hectare.  Harvest is by hand, advanced ripening, during the last week of September. Pressing of the grapes with a high sugar content to pass the precious substances found in the skins to the must. Fermentation at controlled temperature and blend of the resulting wine with wine distillate according to the Marsala Vergine tradition (Fortified Wine). The wine is aged for at least 10 years in ancient oak barrels and at least two years in bottle before release. This is a dry balanced wine with hints of bitter almonds, burnt honey, a touch of caramel and a hint of licorice. This is a very impressive wine with a finish that goes on and on.

We had it with panettone and it was the perfect combination.

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Filed under Barbaresco, Barolo, Marsala  Vergine Secco Riserva “Terre Arse”, Meursault, Meursault-Charmes, Produttori del Barbaresco

December 29, 2025 · 3:51 am

The Perfect Christmas Dinner

Michele and I always look forward to Christmas dinner with Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow. For a number of years it has been our tradition to invite Tom and Diane to our house for Thanksgiving dinner, and they have us to their home for Christmas. They are excellent and adventurous cooks.  Tom has a great wine collection and will try to find the perfect wine match each course.  Though all of our previous holiday celebrations have been wonderful, it seemed to be extra-special this year.

Champagne John Charles Ricciuti Premier Cru Réserve  NV made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and aging is in steel tanks. Residual sugar is7g/l and the alcohol is 12 %. The wine has hints of apple,  ginger with a hint of pear and a touch of lemon.


A plate of freshly baked gougeres accompanied the Champagne along with slices of felino salami, nuts and olives.

At the table, we enjoyed a first course of individual leek and mascarpone tartlets, but I forgot to take a picture!

Beaune Boucherottes Premier Cru 2012 made from 100% Pinot Noir. ”Les Boucherottes” is a premier cru vineyard at the southern edge of Beaune, bordering Pommard, with deep clay soils adding lushness and power.  2012 was a high-quality, small-yield vintage in Burgundy, known for concentrated wines. This is a serious wine with hints of dark cherry, raspberries , strawberry, and a touch of leather. This wine will last for a number of years.

Perfectly cooked prime rib of beef was the star of the evening, accompanied by sauteed mushrooms, green beans, and potato gratin.

Roast ready to serve.  Tom carved it to order.

On the plate

Grignolino delle Langhe 1979 Cavallotto Made from 100% Grignolino.

In 2017 I tasted Grignolino of the Monferrato Casalese “Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie “ 2011 Giulio Accornero & Figli made from 100% Grignolino  at the home of wine writer Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine. Most Grignolino is meant to be drunk young, within one or two years of production, so I was surprised at how well this wine had held up and I really enjoyed it.

The 1979 vintage Grignolino that Tom served was further proof that Grignolino can age.  With its spicy notes, and flavor of raspberries, pomegranate, rhubarb and a touch of smoke it was a revelation. An amazing wine!!

 

A selection of cheeses to savor with the Barolo

Barolo 2004 Marchese di Barolo  Nebbiolo grapes coming from the best crus of the municipality of Barolo. Grapes harvested in Cannubi, Sarmassa, Coste di Rose, Vignane, Preda, Boschetti and Ravera contribute to the production of the wine. The soil is rich in clay with some silt, sand and limestone. Harvested by hand, a selection of the best bunches is made in the vineyard. Each cru is vinified separately: the destemmed and pressed grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel fermenters. The maceration on the skins lasts approximately 15 days during which pumping the must over the pomace cap favors maximum extraction of the polyphenolic substances contained within the skin.  After malolactic fermentation, the individual wines obtained from the different crus are blended. The refinement of Barolo from the municipality of Barolo lasts approximately 2 years, of which the first year half of the volume is stored in small French oak barrels and the remaining half in 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels; while the second year the entire volume is brought together and the maturation ends in large traditional Slavonian oak barrels.  The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, raspberry, roses, violets, licorice and a touch of leather

Michele provided one of the desserts, a pear and almond tart.

Diane’s Christmas Cookie selection included Toll House, Peanut Butter, Granadinas and Ciambellini al Vino.

Thanks to Tom and Diane for another wonderful Christmas dinner.

Happy New Year!

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Filed under Barolo, Burgundy, Champagne, Christmas 2025, Grignolino, Tom & Diane, Uncategorized

August 14, 2025 · 2:24 am

SUMMER LUNCH WITH SPECIAL WINES

Friends from Rome were in town, so Michele invited them to our home for a summery lunch.  A friend brought two very special wines to complement the menu.

Etna DOC Bianco di  Sei  Palmento Constanzo 2021 made from 90% Carricante and 10% Catarrato. The exposure is north and the soil is volcanic sand and rock. “Bianco di Sei” refers to “six”, which is the top designation for volcanic activity, and is the top tier white wine from this estate.   The winery is at the foot of the Muntagna, the name the locals fondly use to refer to Mount Etna. Eighteen hectares are divided into several contradas and hills. The small parcels are vinified separately because each plot is characterized by the lava flow that sedimented over time. The vines are bush- trained with chestnut poles and some of the vines are up to 100 years old. There are 7,000 vines per hectare. The manual harvest takes place the last week of September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks in contact with the lees and 8 months in bottle before release. The winery is organic. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, white flowers, aromatic herbs, a hint of mint and a note of sage. The winery is located within Mt. Etna National Park.

Prosciutto and Watermelon made for a refreshing summer starter

In the early 1980’s Erminia, Generoso, and Roberto Di Meo acquired this historical estate from their parents. The estate is located in the province of Avellino in the area of Salza Irpinia and covers 25 hectares most of which is vineyards. In 1986 they produced their first wines and the Di Meo winery was born.

Greci di Tufo Riserva  2008 “ Vittorio”  Di Meo 100% Greco from Montefusco (AV) at 750 meters.  This wine bears the name of Vittorio Di Meo, who founded the winery.  The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is clay and limestone with steep slopes on a gradient greater than 20% with a north/east exposure. There are 3,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. Harvest is the second  week of October. From slightly over ripe grapes. There is maceration on the skins followed by fermentation  at a controlled temperature for 12 years, then 24 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of beeswax, honey, cedar, apple, a touch of flint with good acidity and minerality. The producer refers to the wine as warm and enchanting and I have to agree.

I visited the winery in 2016 on a Campania Stories press trip and tasted this wonderful wine in NYC in 2023.

Penne with Pesto Trapanese — made with almonds, basil, pecorino, and tomatoes.

Vegetables for roasting

Roasted Eggplant, Peppers, Onion and Tomatoes

Tuna Involtini — stuffed with breadcrumbs, raisins, capers, and parsley.  Michele prefers to make this with swordfish, but tuna can be substituted.Barolo Riserva 1964 Giacomo Borgogno and Figli 100% Nebbiolo. The grapes come from three different cru vineyards: Cannubi, Liste and Fossati. The winery is located in the center of the town of Barolo. The wine is aged at least five years in large oak barrels. This is a wine produced with traditional and natural wine making methods. Long fermentation and pumping over by hand takes place. Today the Farinetti family, which also owns the Eataly chain of shops and restaurants, owns this winery. I have always had very good luck with older vintages of Borgogno. 1964 was a great vintage for Barolo. Thanks to a friend, I have had a few bottles of the ’64 and they have always been good. This is a classic traditional Barolo with hints of red fruit, tar, tobacco, violets, cedar and a touch of balsam.

One of our guests gifted us with two excellent cheeses, an aged Asiago, and an incomparable 40 month-old Parmigiano-Reggiano, which was nutty and creamy.  No wonder they call it “the King of Cheeses.”

Dessert was Michele’s homemade tangerine sorbet.  Refreshing and tart-sweet, it was the perfect finish to our summer lunch.

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Filed under Barolo, Di Meo winery, Etna Bianco

August 1, 2025 · 2:51 am

Enjoying Older Italian Wines

Every summer, Michele and I spend a weekend or two with our friend Ernie De Salvo at his home. He  makes a pasta all’Amatriciana as good as any I have had in Rome and he also has a wonderful wine collection.  He suggested that I choose some Italian red wines from his cellar that we could drink, some in restaurants and some with meals at his home.

We started with a white wine in a restaurant.

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2016 Eduardo Valentini made from 100% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.  The wine is aged in large botti of Slavonian oak for 24 months. This was a very complex full wine with a mineral character, hints of citrus fruit and apple, peach, and melon.  It had good acidity, a great finish and aftertaste with that extra something that is difficult to describe. It is a great white wine.

When I visited the winery a number of years ago the late Eduardo Valentino would not speak about how the wines were made, he only spoke about the vineyard and how he had the best Trebbiano clone. Edoardo passed away in 2006 after making wine for 50 years. His son Francesco has  kept up the tradition, making great Trebbiano since his first solo vintage in 2007.  A few weeks ago I tasted the 2010 vintage, a white wine 15 years old and still wonderful!

Soft Shell Crab in a restaurant

 

Brunello Di Montalcino 1997 Conti Constanti made from 100% Sangiovese grapes.  The Consorzio gave this vintage 1997 a five star rating. The harvest was in mid September. The vineyards are at 310 to 4,400 meters and the age of the vines is from 6 to 25 years old. The soil is geologically galestro and there are 3,333 to 5,100 plants per hectare. Exposure is southwest. Fermentation takes place on the skins from 14 to 21 days depending on the vintage. The wine is aged in 30 HL barrels for 3 to 5 years and in tonneaux. The wine has hints of berries, plums, violets and spice. This is a very impressive Brunello and will last for many more years.

Bone Marrow with onion crostini in a restaurant

Beneventano Falanghina 2023 IGT  Donnachiara made from 100% Falanghina. The vineyard is the Torre Cuso, the best location for Falanghina. The soil is volcanic, chalky clay, the vines are 16 years old, the training system is guyot and there are 2,500 vines per hectare. The grapes are not destemmed or crushed before pressing. Cold fermentation is in stainless steel and there is extended maceration. This is a crisp white wine with citrus fruit aromas and flavors, nice acidity and good minerality and a pleasure to drink.

This is a long time favorite of ours and a great opener to our meal at Ernie’s home.

 

Watermelon topped with prosciutto/finocchiona salame

Crostini with Roasted Peppers and Cantabrian Anchovies

 

Barolo “Brunate” 1971 Marcarini (winemaker Elvio Cogno) made from 100% Nebbiolo.  For many years Elvio Cogno was the winemaker for the Podari Marcarini in La Mora. His Barolo from the La Serra and Brunate Vineyards were exceptional.

I can still remember a 1971 Brunate that I enjoyed in 1981with the late wine writer, Sheldon Wasserman who introduced me to Cogno-Marcarini Barolo.  The 1971 was everything a great Barolo should be.  The aroma of white truffles seemed to fill the room and I was captivated. So 44 years later when Ernie  asked me to pick out a wine from his cellar, I came up with the 1971 Barolo Brunate from Marcarini and it did not disappoint. This is a classic Barolo with flavors and aromas of faded roses, licorice, tar, tobacco and a hint of cherry and a slight touch of white truffles. It is a soft, well-balanced elegant wine with not even a touch of oxidation.

Ernie’s Pasta all’Amatriciana

 

Barolo 1964 Francesco Rinaldi & Figli made from 100% Nebbiolo?  It was a little “dark” for a Barolo so old — Perhaps some Barbera was added?? There was no sediment in the bottle. This is a very traditional producer and has been so since 1870.  The wine has hints of leather, mushrooms, plum, a touch of cherry and a meaty character and so much more. There were no signs of oxidation. A truly exceptional wine.

With it we had some 30 month old “Red Cow” Parmigiano Reggiano.

Blueberry Pie with gelato was a sweet ending to a delicious weekend at Ernie’s.

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June 17, 2024 · 1:33 am

6 Wines for 6 Dishes

Michele and I enjoy trying new wine and food combinations.  Here are six wines that Michele paired with six different dishes and they all worked very well.

FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé 2021 (Veneto, Treviso) made from 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Noir. The grapes are carefully handpicked during late summer or early fall with the perfect balance of  sugar and acidity. They are then gently pressed and the extracted grape juice undergoes its first fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  Yeasts convert the natural sugars into alcohol producing a still wine.  The still wine is transferred to pressurized stainless steel tanks along with a dose of yeast and sugar. As fermentation occurs in sealed tanks, carbon dioxide is trapped, creating the delightful bubbles. This second fermentation which gives the wine its effervescence takes place using the Charmat method, also know as the tank method. After the second fermentation the wine is left to settle in the tanks for a few months allowing the flavors to blend and the bubbles to fully develop.  It is then bottled and released for sale.

This is an elegant Prosecco with hints of raspberry, wild strawberry, citrus fruit, apple and pear with a touch of lemon and a note of wild flowers. $22

Note:  FIOL  is a term of endearment for a young man from the Old Venetian Republic language from the 1400’s.

Antipasto:  Fresh salame with Neapolitan almond taralli and olives.

Principe G 2020 dei Principi Spadafora (Sicily) Terre Sicilia Bianco IGP. Spadafora Made from 53% Grillo and 47% Cataratto. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the exposure is west. The soil is sandy, clay and the training system is simple guyot espalier. There are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is in mid September.  Spontaneous fermentation on the pied de cuve of the grapes without sulfur dioxide at a controlled temperature in cement vats. The wine is aged for 12 months in vats and 4 months in bottle before release. Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodynamic, $15

Sardine Beccafico:  Sicilian-style sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts and raisins.

Etna Bianco di Sei  2021 Palmento Constanzo (Sicily) made from 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto. The exposure is north/east and the soil is volcanic sand and rocks. Bush training with chestnut poles and the vines are up to 100 years old. There are 7,000 vines per hectare. Manual harvest the last week os September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation is in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks in contact with the lees and 8 months in bottle before release. This is an intense and elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, aromatic fruit, white flowers with hint of sage and a note of mint. $45

Note: “Bianco di Sei” refers to “six”, which is the top designation for volcanic activity, and is the top tier white wine from this estate.   The winery is at the foot of the Muntagna, the name the locals fondly use to refer to Etna. Eighteen hectares are divided into several contradas and hills. The small parcels are vinified separately because each plot is characterized by the lava flow that sedimented over time.

Pasta con le Sarde — Pasta with sardines, fennel, raisins and pine nuts, baked in a small timbale.

Barbera D’Alba Superiore 2021 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) made from 100 % Barbara from the 1.7  Roddi “Elia”vineyard which is 200/250 meters with a south-southeast exposure. There are 4,200 plants per hectare. The soil is chalky/clay and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the second week of September. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed, and placed in vats at a temperature of 18 °C for 3 days to bring out their varietal aromas. Fermentation takes place at a temperature of 26 °C, followed by a 6/8-day period of maceration and then the drawing-off. Once the malolactic fermentation took place, the wine ages for 12 months in 25 HL barrels. The wine has hints of red roses, raspberries, black cherries, blackberries and a hint of red plum. $18

Note: In the local dialect “cucco” indicates the hilltop location of the oldest part of the vineyard, inside the Cru Cerrati.

Roasted chicken with potatoes

Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2019 Tenuta Calimaia -Frescobaldi (Tuscany) . Made from 90% Sangiovese (know locally as Prugnolo Gentile) and 10% complementary red grape varieties.  Calimaia is found in the gentle hills between the Val di Chiana and the Val d’Orcia. Located around the winery’s hill, the vineyards sit at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level and are differentiated by exposure and soil type of vineyards thus helping to bring out the best in each variety grown. There are 70 hectares of vineyards. Soil is sand-veined illite clay. Manual harvest. The grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature (26 °C), and fermentation took place spontaneously. Maceration on the skins allowed for perfect extraction of the polyphenols, assisted by frequent pumping over in the initial stages of fermentation, délestage in the intermediate stage, and further pumping over in the final stage. The malolactic fermentation was completed in steel before winter. The wine matured in 50 hL oak barrels for 24 months. It then rested in the bottle for some months before release.

Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodymanic. The wine has hints of cherry, herbs, spice, and pepper, with a hint of chocolate and a note of licorice. $24

Pasta with meat and tomato sauce

Barolo Cerrati 2019 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) Made from 100% Nebbiolo from the Cerrati area in Serralunga d’Alba, the 4 hectare Vigna Cucco is at 260/395 meters. The exposure is south/southeast and the soil is shallow chalky/clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is in October. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed and then left in small vats for 72 hours at a temperature of 10°C, for pre-fermentation steeping. In this way the characteristics of this vineyard are highlighted. This is followed by fermentation with gentle steeping at a temperature of 16°C. Drawing-off takes place when the product is fully dry, after an additional fermentation for 20-25 days on the skins. Then the malolactic bacteria transform the malic acid and the wine will be ready to be transferred for the ageing process. The wine remains for 12 months in small barrels of French oak and after that, it completes its ageing process in traditional barrels for a further 12 months, until it reaches its peak. It is then transferred to bottles, where it matures for at least 6 months before being sold.

The wine has hints of cherry, blackcurrant, blackberries and mushrooms.  It is a wine that will age. $73

Prosciutto Wrapped Braised Quail with spring vegetable stew.

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Filed under Almento Constanzo, Barbara, Barolo, Fiol Prosecco, Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Tenuta Calimaia, Tenuta Cucco, Vino Nobile di Montepulicano

April 25, 2022 · 3:04 am

Krug Clos des Mesnil 1988. Barolo and Pizza

Ed “Champagne” Mc Carthy, author of Champagne for Dummies, was planning a Champagne and pizza meeting at Keste Wall St.  He said that he would bring an old and very expensive bottle of Krug Champagne and he asked me to bring an Italian red wine. I brought my most expensive and oldest

IMG_7231Margherita 

IMG_7225

Champagne Krug du Mesnil 1988 Brut Blanc de Blancs is a very rare Champagne because it is made from a single plot of Chardonnay harvested in a single year. This 1.84-hectare (4.5 acre) vineyard overlooked by the village church has been protected by a wall since 1698. The vineyard is located in the heart of Mesnil-sur-Oger, one of the most iconic villages for Chardonnay in the Champagne region.

This champagne is generous and round with hints of citrus, dried fruit, brioche, tart tatin and a note of honey. It lingers on the palate with a long finish and notes of honey ginger. The first vintage was 1979. 

This is the e-mail Ed sent to me about the Champagne he was bringing.

In 1698, residents of the small village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (in the section of Champagne known as the Cote des Blancs, where most of the great Blanc de Blancs Champagnes are made, from 100 percent Chardonnay) decided to build a wall around a certain section of Chardonnay vines in their village, because the Chardonnay grapes grown there were so special. Called Clos du Mesnil, It became one of the only Walled Vineyards in the Champagne region; only about 3 or 4 Walled vineyards exist today in Champagne.

In 1971, Champagne Krug, which was using Clos des Mesnil for some of its Chardonnay grapes in its NV Grand Cuvée (then called Private Cuvée), decided to buy the Clos du Mesnil Vineyard, and in 1979, produced its first Krug Clos du Mesnil. it proved to be sensational, and Krug has been making a Krug Clos du Mesnil in every good vintage since.

I have purchased Krug Clos du Mesnil in only a few vintages, because it has always been about three times the price of Vintage Krug. I have been saving my 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil (which I purchased with a Vintage 1988 Krug about 20 years ago; Krug ages its Clos du Mesnil usually for about 11 years (!) before they release it).  The 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil is now priced at $3175—if you can find it. I am not getting any younger, and so I decided it’s time to drink it with a few friends.

My only answer was WOW!!!!

IMG_7229Pizza Margherita with Prosciutto and Arugula

IMG_7233Pizza with Fresh Black Truffles

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Conterno Francia Barolo 1996 made from 100% Nebbiolo from the Cascina Francia Vineyard which was purchased in 1974. The vineyards are at 500 meters and the training system is guyot. The exposure is to the west and the soil is calcareous. There is long submerged cap maceration and fermentation in large Austrian oak vats, followed by long refinement in large barrels (botti) for about 4 years and in bottle. This is a very traditional Barolo. It is a rich, powerful and seductive wine with hints of cherry, dried fruits, dark chocolate and leather. It was very impressive.

 

IMG_7238Dessert Pizza stuffed with Nutella and topped with Berries

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Roberto’s special Tiramisu

Michele and I felt privileged to enjoy these great wines. Thank you, Ed McCarthy, for sharing the Champagnes with us and to Ernie De Salvo, who gave me the Barolo.

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Filed under Barolo, Kaste, Krug Champagne, Uncategorized

January 10, 2022 · 2:46 am

Champagne, Barolo and a 1927 Madeira

Ed McCarthy and Mary Ewing Mulligan, MW, are old friends and we are always happy to see them and share a good meal.  Mary, the first American woman to achieve the prestigious title of Master of Wine, is the owner of The International Wine Center  She and Ed are the authors of the best-selling “Wine for Dummies” series of books. As always we started with Champagne.

IMG_6585Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon Brut 2006 made from equal amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The grapes come from five Grand Cru villages and one Premier Cru village. Ed wrote in his book, Champagne for Dummies, the wine’s “…trademarks are its exquisite balance, its creaminess, its elegance, its very fine tiny bubbles and its complex flavors.” 

IMG_6567Michele preparing the appetizers

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With the Champagne, we enjoyed appetizers of smoked salmon in endive leaves, crackers topped with smoked salmon and creme fraiche, and marinated shrimp. 

IMG_6581Barolo “Rocche” 1989 Vietti Made from Nebbiolo – 75% Michet, 20% Lampia and 10% Rose. There are 4,600 plants per hectare. The wine is fermented for 22 days in stainless steel tanks with daily pumping air through the application of an old system called “cap submerged”. It is aged for over two years in Slavonian oak barrels, is unfiltered and is aged one year in bottle before release. My favorite Barolo has always been the Rocche.  This is traditional classic Barolo with hints of blueberry, violets, faded roses and leather. It was drinking very well.

IMG_6574To go with the wine, Michele made beef braised with porcini, whipped sweet potatoes and broccoli rabe with garlic.

IMG_6584Leacock’s Madeira Bastardo 1927  D’Oliveiras made from 100% Bastardo grape (a red grape) that has almost disappeared from the vineyards in Madeira. The wine has been in wood for over 80 years. The wine has hints of citrus peel, caramel, orange marmalade, with a touch of bees’ wax and a note of sea salt. This is the second great bottle of Madeira we had with Ed and Mary. The first a few months ago was a 1832 Madeira. Both were fantastic.

We had three different cheeses, dates, and nuts with the Madeira.

IMG_6591Dessert was a moist almond cake with raspberry sauce and creme fraiche.

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Filed under Barolo, Champagne, Dom Perignon, Madeira, Uncategorized, Vietti

November 14, 2021 · 9:35 pm

Lunch in Rome with Daniele Cernilli (Doctor Wine)

It is always a pleasure to see Daniele Cernilli (Doctor Wine) and his wife Marina Thompson in Rome. We have been friends for a long time.

IMG_6288 I always look forward to discussing wine with Daniele while enjoying a delicious meal.

IMG_6256This time, Daniele brought me  a copy of his book The Essential Guide to Italian Wine 2022.  It will be my go-to reference book for Italian wines since, as Daniele said, “All the wines worth drinking are in the pages of this guide.”

IMG_6260Daniele also brought me a copy of his new travel guide book, Mangiare e Dormire tra i Vigneti, Eating and Sleeping in the Vineyards, which should be essential for anyone traveling Italy’s wine roads.  This is one in a series of books on travel and wine. IMG_6258

Daniele suggested we have lunch at La Ciambella Wine Bar with Kitchen.  This stunning restaurant is built on the ruins of Agrippa’s baths.  It is painted white with very high ceilings and our table was under a very large skylight so you could see the sky.   The restaurant served some traditional Italian dishes but for the most part they went off in many different direction adding little twists of their own. All the wines were selected by Daniele

The food and Wine

IMG_6262Little choux pastry puffs filled with ricotta, tomatoes and basil

“IMG_6266 2Animelle–sweetbreads with wild chicory and brie cheese sauce

IMG_6264Sauteed Lamb Offal (Coratella) & Roman artichoke

IMG_6268“Coda in Carrozza”– fried sandwiches with braised oxtail

IMG_6265 3“Porchetta” pork roast wraps with marinated cherry tomatoes and yogurt sauce

IMG_6271Spaghettone carbonara — the classic Roman pasta

IMG_6269 2Falanghina 2018 Campi Flegrei  DOC “Cruna de Lago  La Sibilla made from 100% Falanghina. The soil is sandy and volcanic and the training system is guyot. The exposure is south-west and the vineyards are over 60 years old. Fermentation is in steel vats. For six months the wine remains on the lees and remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. Daniele said the wine has hints of yellow citrus,  chamomile, saffron, pepper a touch of smoke, good acidity and a long finish. I found the color of the wine to be almost grey but it went very well with the Offal.

IMG_6277Cheese – We finished the wines with a variety of cheese, chestnut honey and fig jam.

IMG_6273 2Fiorano Vino Rosso 2013 Alessandrojacopo Boncompagni Ludovisi. Made from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot. The vineyard is at 130 meters and the soil is of volcanic origin. Exposure is north west-south west. There are 3,700 vines per hectare. The training system is espalier, spurred cordon pruning and the vines are 19 years old. Harvest is the third week of September.  Whole grapes are destemmed and are gently pressed, maceration takes place for at least fifteen days in oak vats with manual punching down. The wine is then drawn off and immediately put into 1,000-liter Slavonian oak barrels, in which the wine rests for maturation for at least 30 months. This is followed by two years of refinement in glass before being marketed. The wine has hints of red berries, sweet spice, a touch of balsamic herbs and a note of coffee.

IMG_6275 2Barolo 2010 “Sarmassa” Marchesi di Barolo made from 100% Nebbiolo. The vineyard exposure is south-east and the soil is clay and limestone with many stones. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and they are trained on a vertical trellised guyot system. Harvest is manual.  The grapes are destemmed and softly pressed. Fermentation at a controlled temperature in thermo condition tanks. Maceration lasts for 10 days. The wine is regularly recycled during this time. Racking takes place when the natural sugars are totally converted to alcohol. The wine is then racked into cement tanks, lined with fiber glass and insulated with cork. Malolactic fermentation is spontaneous and lasts for two months. The wine is aged in Slavonian oak barrels of 30 0r 36 HL and in medium toasted French barriques of 225 liters. The wine is the blended into traditional big oak barrels and remains in bottle before release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of licorice, spice, tobacco, pine resin and a touch of vanilla. It is a wine that will age.

IMG_6279 2Dessert — Dark and white chocolate mousse

IMG_6280Crostata of Ricotta and Visciole Cherry Jam

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Colli Piacentini Vin Santo di Vigleno 2010 Colli Piacentini DOC  Az. Agr. Lusignani made from Beverdino, Santa Maria, Melara, Trebbiano and Ortrugo grapes. The vineyard is at 300 meters. Only the very best bunches of grapes are picked and are laid on a trellis in “fruttai” a specially built aerated drying room to assist in the maturation of the grapes for 3 months. After the pressing of the grapes (which takes place from December to February), the wine must matures for 6 years in small oak caratelli and barriques each time in smaller barrels (like the traditional balsamic method).  Daniele described the wine as having extraordinary complexity with aromas of dried dates, coffee liquor, antique wood, and eucalyptus and he compared it to a Madeira. This is truly a remarkable dessert wine. Daniele said only 1,000 375 ml size bottles were made.

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Filed under Barolo, Daniele Cernilli, Falanghina, Fiorano Rosso 2013, La Ciambella, La Sibilla, Lusignani Vin Santo, Marchese di Barolo. Sarmassa, Vin Santo

October 25, 2021 · 2:01 am

Le Volpi e l’Uva Wine Bar in Florence

When I was the wine director for I-Trulli restaurant in NYC, a young man from Florence spent 3 months working with me in the restaurant and the Enoteca.  Ciro Beligni already knew about wine and was a quick learner.  We spent a lot of time speaking about wine, food, and Florence. Ciro them returned to Florence and is today one of the owners at Le Volpi e l’Uva, which I consider to be the best wine bar in Florence. Over the years, whenever I visit Florence I stop to see Ciro and we talk about what is happening in the wine industry. On this visit I asked Ciro to choose all of the wines for us.

IMG_5979Ciro Beligni

IMG_5981Ciro just received this prestigious award for the wine list Le Volpi e l’Uva from Milano Wine Week.

IMG_5965Ciro suggested we try Franciacorta DOCG Satèn Brut “1701”  2016 Società Agricola Cazzago San Martino made from 100% Chardonnay from a 10 hectare vineyard with morainic terrain with stones. The training system is guyot and there are 4,500 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place at the end of August. 80% of the hand picked selected grapes are crushed in a pneumatic press and fermented in steel tuns at a controlled temperature. 20% undergoes cold maceration with fermentation in new barriques. Aging is for 7 months in steel or barriques.  The second fermentation takes place the spring following the harvest. The wine remains on the lees for at least 30 months and 3 to 4 months following the disgorging. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, yellow fresh fruit, with a hint of brioche and a touch of pastry cream. 

IMG_5969Etna Bianco  2018 DOC Feudo Cavaliere made from 100% Carricante coming from a very old ingrafted vineyard and a recently planted one. The vineyard is on the south side of Etna at 950 to 990 meters. The training system is spurred cordon with high plant density. Volcanic soil and “ripiddu” sands rich in minerals. Harvest is in October. The wine in aged in stainless steel tanks on the lees for one year. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, floral notes, a touch of honey and balanced acidity

IMG_5967Anchovies, lemon and butter on a brioche roll was a fantastic little bite to enjoy with the wine.

IMG_5972Italian Cheese plate with several interesting condiments

IMG_5975Barbaresco 2018 DOCG  Vicenziana made from 100% Nebbiolo from a two hectare vineyard. The soil is clay with lime rich marl. Temperature controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks for about 20 days. The wine is aged in Slavonian botti (oak barrels) of 20 to 30 hectoliters for 2 to 3 years. This is a traditional Babaresco that will last for 25 years or more. It has hints of black raspberries, cherries, leather, tea and a hint of spice.

IMG_5973Finocchiona, a typical fennel flavored salame and mascarpone on toasted Tuscan bread.

IMG_5978Barolo 2013 DOCG Scarzello made from 100% Nebbiolo from five different plots of Vigna Merenda in the Sarmassa cru at 300 meters on clayey and calcareous soil. Fermentation is in temperature controlled steel vats with long maceration on the skins. The wine ages for 30 months in oak barrels of 25 and 36 hl for 30 months. This wine will last for a number of years. 2013 was an excellent vintage. It has hints of red fruit, tar, licorice, leather and balsamic notes.

IMG_5984Dessert was a chocolate topped crostata with almonds and pastry cream.

IMG_5987Torcolato Riserva 2017 San Bortolo made from 100% Vespaiola from a 1.5 hectare vineyard planted in 2006 with a north/south exposure. The soil is medium textured alluvial and clay. The training system is single and double curtain overturned guyot with 8 to 10 buds. There are 4,400 vines per hectare. Harvest is in mid September. Carefully selected grape bunches are hand harvested and then naturally dried in an airy granary.The grape pressing is in February with a yield of 25 to 30%.  First fermentation on the lees in French oak barriques for almost one year. The wine remains for 24 months in new barriques.  It has hints of citrus, apricot jam, and hazelnuts with a note of honey and an aftertaste of dried fruit and almonds.

IMG_6095On our last night in Florence, Ciro let me taste a wine that he produces Sangiovese Toscana IGT 2019 “Altreviti” made from 100% Sangiovese.  Ciro Beligni. The grapes are from an old vineyard at 450 meters. Harvest is by hand. Spontaneous fermentation takes place. The wine is aged in cement tanks and tonneau for 15 months before it is bottled. Only 2,542 bottles and 44 magnums were produced. If you go to the wine bar ask Ciro for a glass or a bottle.  It is a very impressive wine.

Le Volpi e l’Uva is located at Piazza dei Rossi, 1, in Florence, Italy.  Open every day from 11:00 AM to 9:00 PM.

  

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Filed under Barbaresco, Barolo, Etna Bianco Feudo Cavaliere, Franciacorta Brut, Le Volpi e l'uva, Sangiovese, Scarzella, Torcolato, San Bartolo