When Michele and I were in Rome, Federica Schir <federica@federicaschir-pr.com> arranged a tasting and dinner at a very famous restaurant, Alfredo Alla Scrofa. The restaurant is one of two Roman restaurants that claim to be the originators of fettuccine Alfredo, a rich plate of eggy fresh fettuccine pasta tossed with butter and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. In this country, cream is often added to the dish, but its an absolute no-no at Alfredo’s. To go with our meal, there were wines from four different producers: Tenuta Rottensteiner (Bolzano), Càduferrà (Liguria) Rizzini (Franciacorta) and Vallarom(Trentino). It was quite a feast.
Here is my report on the Tenuta Rottensteiner wines.
Federica introduced Hannes Rottensteiner from Tenuta Hans Rottensteiner. Hannes is the winemaker and jointly conducts the affairs of the winery with his father Anton (Toni) with the help of other members of the family. Hannes’ wife Judith takes care of sales and marketing and two of his sisters, Eli and Silvia, supply grapes to the winery.
Hannes said there are documents that confirm there were vines planted on Rottensteiner land in 1527. The modern story begins however in 1956 when Hans Rottensteiner, Hannes grandfather founded the winery that bears his name.
They not only use grapes from the family’s 10 hectares but also grapes from 50 regional grape growers and make 16 different varieties of white and red wine.
Hannes told us that his family is one of the oldest wine-growing families in South Tyrol. Their winemaking history began many generations ago in this area where the vines grow on porphyry, the red rock typical of this region. Their surname is also the namesake of the red rock.
Bolzano lies on a giant porphyry slab. This red rock is clearly visible all around the city and significantly influences the mineral character of the wine produced here.
The wines
Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Weissburgunder Pinot Bianco “Carnol” 2023 made from 100% Pinot Bianco. The training system is guyot and the soils sandy, loamy, wand porphyry. The “Carnol” takes the name of Hannes father, Toni Rottensteiner’s, birthplace. The grapes come from the best Pinot Blanc vineyards around Bolzano grown on very mineral soils. Hannes said this origin and careful work in the vineyard give the wine all the characteristics which make the Pinot Blanc so special. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, apples, peach a touch of spice and a hint of white flowers.
Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Pinot Grigio 2023 made from 100% Pinot Gris. The soil is gravel. slightly loamy and porphyry. The training system is pergola and guyot. Vinification is in steel tanks. After fermentation the wine ages in steel tanks. Hannes said, “Our Pinot Grigio grows in Branzollo and Frangarto, two villages in the South of Bolzano, one in the valley, the other one on a slight slope, at an altitude of 250 – 300 meters. Another part comes from S. Giacomo in Sabbia next to Bolzano at 450 meters and from Auna di Sotto at 600 meters. In this way, we have a full-bodied, structured, but also minerally and elegant wine.” The wine has notes of citrus fruit, peach, pear, light spice and a touch of banana.
Hannes said that although the Pinot Grigio is a relative of the Pinot Bianco, the wines quite different – not only because of the copper-colored berries of the Pinot Grigio, but also because of the characteristics of the wines. The Pinot Grigio is more complex, with more intense color and notes of banana, vanilla and spices.
Südtirol-Alto Adige Schiava made from 100% Schiava from the Nussbaumer estate in Mission near Bolzano. Sandy and sedimentary soil and the training system is the pergola. Vinification is in stainless steel. After fermentation the wine matures in stainless steel tanks. This is a light and easy wine to drink and can accompany many different foods. It is wine that should be drunk young. It has hints of strawberry and raspberry, violets, cherry and a hint of almonds.
Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Santa Maddalena Classico “Vigna Premstallerhof” 2023 made from 93% Schiava and 7% Lagrein. The Premstallerhof estate, located in Santa Maddalena at 400 to 500 meters above sea level and with approximately four hectares, is not only one of the largest, but also one of the best estates in the area. It has been owned by the family Vogel since 1962. They are Swiss wine importers, who turned a dream into reality in buying a vineyard in the St. Magdalena area. Gertrud Vogel directly cultivates the vineyard according to the biodynamical philosophy. The South-East exposure, together with the excellent topographic conditions and the loose porphyry soil, make for one of the best DOC St. Magdalener, the Premstallerhof. Fermentation is in steel tanks and the wine matures in concrete and large wooden barrels. Hannes said St. Magdalener is one of the most famous wines of South Tyrol. Traditionally, the two varieties Schiava and Lagrein are planted together in the same vineyard. The wine has great length with hints of violets, cherries and a slight bitter almond finish.
Select Pinot Noir Riserva 2020 made from 100% Pinot Noir from the Nussbaumerhof estate in Mission (Appiano). The soil is sandy porphyry and the training system is guyot. This Pinot Noir comes from the best Pinot Noir vineyards in Bolzano. Abundant sun during the day, cool nights, good aeration, great attention during yield control and in the management of the microclimate in the vineyard. The wine spends 12 months in barriques the wine has hints of . cherry, raspberry spice, vanilla a hint of mushroom.
Südtirol-Alto Adige DOC Select Lagrein Gries Riserva 2021 made from 100% Lagrein which grows in three vineyards in the center of Bolzano Gries where there are deep sedimentary soils with more than 30 year-old grapevines. The training system is guyot. Vinification is in French barriques. This is a full bodied red wine hints of violets, chocolate, blackberries and a touch of tobacco. Hannes said the tradition and modernity of the Rottensteiner family finds its clearest expression in this wine.
We enjoyed meeting Hannes and tasting all of his wines. Next week, more about our dinner and the other wines we tasted.