August 24, 2026 · 3:27 am

Tasting the Wines of Abruzzo

Recently I had an opportunity to taste a range of fine wines from the Abruzzo Region of Italy.


Located to the east of Rome, the region of Abruzzo has everything going for it. There are beautiful national parks, a long coastline on the Adriatic, the rugged snowcapped Apennine Mountains, and little medieval towns perched precariously on hilltops. Abruzzo is situated between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella massif. It is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy with three national parks and more than ten national and regional natural reserves.  Abruzzo geographically is more central than southern Italy, but due to its connection with the old Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, it is considered part of the South. Abruzzo is divided into four provinces: L’Aquila, Teramo, Pescara, and Chieti. Over two-thirds of the wine in Abruzzo is produced by cooperatives.

Most vineyards are in hilly areas of which 75% are in the province of Chieti. The traditional vine training method is the Tendone system also known as Pergola Abruzzese. The vines are grown along vertical posts and wires to a height of about 6 feet. The vines are planted 2 meters apart in parallel rows 2 meters apart. The leaves grow over the top to form a canopy (pergola) to protect the grapes from the hot Abruzzo sun. The Tendone has always been the way to grow table grapes in the area and it is easier to pick the grapes without having to bend down.

Tasting the Wines

The three most important wine designations in Abruzzo are: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (red), Cerasuolo (rose), and Trebbiano D’Abruzzo (white). Recently Pecorino (white) has become more important. In terms of the quantity of wine produced, the Abruzzo region is seventh in Italy.

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino  Terre di Chieti Superiore Bio Aime 2025 Cascina Del Colle. Made from 100% Pecorino. This is a family-owned organic winery located in Villamagna. The winery was established in 1997 by the D’Onofrio family.  The estate spans roughly 18 hectares of vineyards and olive groves situated about 300 meters above sea level, sitting in a unique microclimate between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea. The winery specializes in native Abruzzo grape varieties and is famously known for hand-numbering every single bottle it produces. The vineyards face east/north east at 121 meters. Soil is of a medium texture and the training system is spurred cordon row. Vinification is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 4 months in stainless steel. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, green apple, and a touch of apricot.

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino  made from 100% Pecorino Avalos Lauri.  The wine is produced in the Colline Pescaresi PGI/DOC area within Loreto Aprutino. The estate vineyards were planted 2004 at 359 meters in calcareous soil. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand in mid September. The grapes are completely destemmed  and undergo a period of skin contact at cool temperatures to pull maximum aromatics from the skins without extracting bitter tannins. There is a gentle pneumatic press used to softly extract the high-quality free-run juice.  The clarified grape must undergoes alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 12 days. Temperatures are maintained strictly between 16–18 °C to preserve delicate floral and fruit volatile compounds. The wine is aged entirely in stainless steel (no oak contact) and rests in the bottle for two months before release to maintain its clean, vibrant profile. The winery utilizes renewable energy and has certified its wines as 100% vegan. It has hints of ripe pear, green apple, apricot,  jasmine, and citrus aromas, balanced by a crisp mineral finish.

Ottobre Rosso Montepulciano D’ Abruzzo  made from 100% Montepulican0 Production area Villamagna (Chieti) Tenuta I Fauri   The soil is clay calcareous. There are 3,000 vines per hectare  and the training and pruning method is single curtain. Fermentative maceration is for 10/12 days in concrete vats and then racking.   The wine is aged  for 9 months in concrete vats.   This is a wine with hints of  red fruit, cherry, clove, orange peel a touch of spice and a hint of herbs. The winery was certified organic with the 2021 vintage. I visited the winery a few years ago and tasted  the wines on a number of occasions and was always impressed with them. This is an elegant wine with hints of  wild cherry, raspberry, strawberry with a touch of spice and a hint of licorice.

Cerasuolo  D’Abruzz0 Superiore 2025 Tenutarossa made from 100%  Montepulciano D’Abruzzo.  It is the flagship wine line produced by the Pasetti Vini winery, a renowned family-run estate The line serves as the winery’s “crown jewel.”  The name honors the striking heritage of red-haired women within the Pasetti family.  The grapes  are cultivated high in the Pescosansonesco vineyards, situated at 550 meters above sea level within the foothills of the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park.  The soil is clay-calcareous rich in organic matter. There are dramatic day-to-night temperature swings balanced by refreshing Adriatic Sea breezes. Clay-calcareous land rich in organic matter. Manual harvest takes place in late October and early November. The juice undergoes skin-contact maceration and alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for 8 to 10 days. This is followed by malolactic fermentation.   The wine has hints blackberry, dark cherry, and stewed plum, soil, tobacco, leather, and cocoa.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Colline Teramane Neromoro Fattoria Nicodemi  !100% Montepulciano from the Tramo hills at 300 meters. The soil is of medium textured limestone and clay. There are 1,600 plants per hectare and the training system is Abruzzo pergola. Average age of the vines is 50 years. Harvest takes place the second 10 days in October. The grapes are destemmed followed by a maceration of 15 to 20 days with fermentation in vertical vats. Aging is in new and second passage barriques for 16 to 18 months. There is racking but no fining or filtration before bottling. The wine remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, black currant and a note of balsamic.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Duca Thaulero made from 100% Montepulciano. The Cantina Casal Thaulero takes its name from the small town of Casal Thaulero (TE) where the rolling hills of Abruzzo meet the Adriatic Sea which takes its name from Duke Giovanni Thaulero, the grandfather of Abruzzo viticulture. Grapes are carefully picked by hand to prevent the skins from bruising before they reach the crushing pads.  The juice ferments in stainless steel vats directly in contact with the grape skins. This contact allows the alcohol to extract anthocyanins (color) and rich, structural tannins from the skins. After the initial alcoholic fermentation, a natural secondary bacterial fermentation occurs. This converts sharp malic acid into smooth lactic acid, giving the wine its signature velvety texture. The wine undergoes an extensive aging period in large oak barrels. The wood interaction oxygenates the wine, softening the tannins and adding complex secondary notes of leather, prune, blackberry, spice, and dark balsamic. I have a long history with Cantina Casal Thaulero going back many years and they introduced me to the wines of Abruzz0. The wine has hints of black cherry, blackberries, plums, tobacco and a note of licorice.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva 2015 “Casauria”  Podere Castorani made from 100% Montepulciano. The training system is the traditional overhead “pergola” trellis system of the Abruzzo region. The soil is deep clay with many underground rocks. Harvest is by hand the beginning of November with grape selection. Fermentation is in concrete tanks with manual pump over and delestages and extended maceration. Malolactic fermentation is completed during skin maceration. The wines ages on the lees in oak barrels and then for 6 months in concrete tanks. Finally the wine remains in bottle for 15 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, cranberries, licorice, a touch of spice and a note of tobacco.

It was a pleasure for me to reacquaint myself with these wines.

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August 13, 2026 · 2:18 am

Lunch with Friends from Rome

Some of our Roman friends come to the US in August every year to escape the very hot weather in Rome. Our friend from New Jersey always invites all us to his home for lunch.  Michele does the food preparation.

Suenen Champagne Extra Brut OIRY Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru made from 100% Chardonnay from a 1.5 hectare plot in the Grand Cru village of Cramant. The soil is chalky. The clear wine is fermented partially in barrel with 9 months on the lees and the dosage is 2g/l. It is delicate and dry with hints of lemon, quinine, floral notes and a trace of minerals.

We had this with two very wonderful appetizers.  I could have made a meal of just the two of them with the Champagne, but there was much great wine and food to follow!

Mortadella Mousse. This was very difficult to stop eating.  Toasted pistachios top a smooth blend of mortadella, ricotta and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Roasted Figs with Goat Cheese and Thyme. Susan Westmoreland brought this one.  It was a delicious reminder of a dear friend, the late food writer and author Marie Simmons, who first developed this recipe.  The warm figs and cheese are drizzled with honey.

Barbera d’ Asti “Vigna Noce” 2010  Antica Azienda Agricola Trinchero.  Made from 100% Barbera.  The winery belongs to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists, an association of wine producers from around the world that believes in organic and bio-dynamic production, terroir and as little interference as possible by the wine maker. Only natural yeast is used, there is no acidification of the wine, clarification and filtration does not take place. Chemical treatments are not used in the vineyards; copper and sulfur are used but only when it is really necessary. The wine is aged for 7 years in large chestnut barrels. This is a traditional, classic Barbera that will last for at least another 10 years. I was very impressed with this wine.

Orrechiette with Fresh Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Basil.  A summer favorite.

Summer Vegetable Tian with zucchini, potatoes and tomatoes topped Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Green Bean Salad with Anchovy Dressing — Tender beans with a creamy anchovy and garlic dressing.

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2001 Pianrossa DOCG Brunello di Montalcino made from 100% Sangiovese from 11.69 hectares named Pianrosso at 240 and 360 meters.  Soil of medium grain with good levels of marl dating to the Eocene period. Fermentation is in stainless steel and glass concrete vats with temperature control via cooling plates and jackets. Aging is in 7.5 -30 Slavonian oak barrels, for 3 years followed by over 12 months of bottle aging before release. This is an intense, complex and full bodied wine wine with hints of red berries, black berries and spice.

Butterflied Leg of Lamb — marinated with mustard, garlic and rosemary and grilled.

Bramaterra Riserva 1996 Tenuta Monolo. Bramaterra is in the Alta Piemonte well north of Barolo. Made from 60% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 20% Vesoplin10% and 10% Uva Rara. The vines were planted in 1970. There are 0.75 hectares of vineyards and the farming was organic. Exposure is northeast/southeast; there are 3,200 vines/hectare at 290 meters. The training system is guyot. The soil is deep and light, copper sands, with a high level of acidity with potassium, iron and manganese. Harvest is manual. Fermentation was in large wooden barrels (botti) with native yeast. The wine is aged in botti for two years. The wine is classic Bramaterra with hints of cherry, spice, cinnamon, a touch of dried fruit and a note of nutmeg. The last vintage was in 2004.

Finished plate

Blueberry Peach Crisp with Vanilla Bean Gelato was our dessert.

It was a wonderful day with friends and great wine and food in a unique setting that lasted into the night.

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August 7, 2026 · 3:22 am

UNDERSTANDING ITALY THROUGH WINE

“Understanding Italy Through Wine — Territory and Terroir: the Excellence of Italian Wine as Expressed by Coldiretti  Producers” was an event that I attended recently.  It was held at the Columbus Citizens Foundation, NYC

Coldiretti (Confederazione Nazionale Coltivatori Diretti) is Italy’s largest agricultural organization, representing hundreds of thousands of independent farmers, wine makers, and food producers. Founded in 1944, it champions authentic Italian-origin products, defends farmers’ rights, and connects agricultural producers directly with consumers mountainous terrain and sandy soils of volcanic origin. Italy has a continental climate with Mediterranean influences, characterized by cold winters and summers with strong temperature variations between night and day.

Here are the wines that we enjoyed that day.

DOC Etna Rosso Sul Vulcano 2022 – DONNAFUGATA Made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from Eastern Sicily, on the northern slopes of Etna, on the estate of the Municipality of Randazzo and in other particularly suitable areas. Elevation 600/700 meters. Mountainous terrain and sandy soils of volcanic origin. Vineyards grown using the Etna “alberello” head-trained bush practice and VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioning) training methods with spurred cordon pruning. Sloping terrains are traditionally cultivated on terraces cordoned off by dry lava stone walls. Grapes are collected in crates with the grapes carefully sorted at the vineyard. The Nerello Mascalese grape harvest began at the end of September and concluded on October 12. On arriving at the winery, the bunches are further sorted on the vibrating table and then selected using a next-generation destemmer which selects only perfectly ripe grapes, removing green and overripe grapes. Fermentation in steel with maceration on the skins at a controlled temperature. Aging partly in tanks and partly in second and third-passage barriques for around 18 months, and then for at least 18 months in the bottle before the release. The wine has hints of spice, sour cherry, strawberries a hint of fresh balsamic and touch of violet. The volcanic goddess on the label is a reminder of Etna, an active volcano. I have always enjoyed the wines of Donnafugata and have visited some of their different locations.

DOCG Vermentino di Gallura Cucaione 2025 – PIERO MANCINI made from 100% Vermentino from the northwest corner of Sardegna. The vines were planted between 2000/2005. Soil is granite and the vineyard is at 100/350 meters and facing southeast.  Harvest is from late August to early September. They do not use herbicides or pesticides but reserve the right to use fungicides if it means saving the crop. Controlled low temperature fermentation in stainless steel with conventional yeasts. Aging is for 3-6 months on the lees in stainless steel. Fined with bentonite, coarse filtration before bottling. The wine has hints of peach, herbs, tangerine a touch of green apple and a bitter almond finish.

DOCG Friuli Colli Orientali Friulano – LA VIARTE made fron 100% Tocai grown using the double upside-down and Guyot training system. There are 4,000 vines per hectare at 100/200 meters. The exposure is east and southeast. Soil is of Eocene origin locally know as “ponca” which consists of layers of marl and sandstone. Manual harvest is followed be a soft pressing of the grapes. Then vinification in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place.The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 6 months and in the bottle for a least 3 months before it is released for sale. This is a complex wine with hints of white peach, hay and thyme with good minerality and an almond finish.

DOP Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Coste di Moro Bio Cantina Sociale Orsogna made from 100% Montepulcino D’Abruzzo. This is a certified organic, biodynamic, and vegan red wine produced by Cantina Orsogna in Italy. Cantina Orsogna, created in 1964, is a cooperative company of 450 partners. It is the largest producer of organic and biodynamic wines in the south centre of Italy. It has more than 1,100 hectares of vines, 80% is certified organic, and 30% is certified biodynamic by Demeter. Cantina Orsogna has been certified biodynamic since 2005 and has been organic produced for more than 30 years. This full-bodied wine features  hints of black cherry, blackberry and plum with a touch of cocoa and a note of licorice.

DOCG Vernaccia DI San Gimignano Riserva 2013 “Sanice” Cesani madę from 100% Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, certified organic since 2010. Soil is of medium textured silty-sandy with Pliocene marine deposits.The grapes, all hand-picked and selected for maturation, variety and plot, are carried every hour to the cellars where the wine is made. Fermentation in stainless steel at controlled temperatures with indigenous yeast. No maceration or malolactic fermentation. Soft filtration and bottling February-March after harvest. The wine is aged with the lees for 3 to 4 months in stainless steel.The refining of the bottled wine takes place in rooms located within an old agricultural outbuilding recently restored, buried on three sides and with constant temperature and humidity. This is a crisp white wine has hints of green apple, citrus fruit, a touch of lemon and a bitter almond finish.

DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino “Tenuta Nova” 2019 Casanove di Nevi  made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is located south of Montalcino at 275/320 meters and the soil is galestro with tuff and clay. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the plants are 25/30 years old. The raining system is spur-pruned cordon and the winery is organic but not certified. The wine is unfiltered and it is aged in 500-liter oak tonneau for 36 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a full-bodied wine with hints of blackberry, black cherry, plum and a touch of violets and a note of spice. It is a classic  Brunello  which I have have been drinking for many years.

  

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July 30, 2026 · 2:04 am

EthicaWines Italian Portfolio Tasting

The EthicaWines 10th Anniversary Portfolio Tasting was held at one of  my favorite Italian restaurants, Il Gattopardo in NYC.

Ethica Wines has a wonderful portfolio of Italians.  Their slogan is Italian wines, global reach.  23 producers were present at the tasting and there were over 40 wines to taste.

The four wines listed below are my favorites and I have a long and special relationship with each.

Villa Bucci  2021 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Villa Bucci Riserva . Made from 100% Verdicchio from Ostra Vetere, province of Ancona, Marche. There are 64 acres of Verdicchio planted. Made from the estate’s oldest, highest-altitude plots.  The soil is calcareous and mildly clayey that encourages deep root systems. Large old Slavonian oak barrels of 50 HL are used to age the wine for two years. The winery has been fully certified organic since 1999/2002.

The winery was founded by Ampelio Bucci and the wine was produced with the help of the  legendary  enologist Giorgio Grai for over 30 years. It has been my honor to meet both of them on more then one occasion. Ampelio passed away recently and the winery was in 2024 acquired by the Veronesi family’s Oniverse group. This is a very  complex, well balanced  mouth filling white  wine with hints of green apple, almond, herbs a  hint of flint and  a touch of anise with a long pleasing finish and aftertaste, This is a white wine that can  really age.   There is a restaurant in Amalfi that has these wines going back 10 years and more. It is always a pleasure to drink them.

Alberico Lazio IGT 2020 Tenuta Principe Alberico made from 100% Semillon. Soil is of volcanic origin. Cooled crushed grapes are softly pressed and the must obtained is decanted. Fermentation in steel tanks. Indigenous yeasts carry on alcoholic fermentation. Aging is in 16 hI oak barrels and finally a further passage in barriques 18 months in the bottle before release.  This is an exceptional balanced wine with complex aromas of subtle tropical fruit, hints of citrus fruit and a slight touch of vanilla with a very pleasing finish and a long aftertaste.

Allessia Antinori, daughter of  Piero Antinori and granddaughter of Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi Principe of Venosa who founded the winery in 1945,  runs the winery. The winery is only 30 km from Rome across from the Ciampino Airport. I have visited the winery on a number of occasions and have met with Alessia in Rome and in NYC .

Taurasi Riserva 2017 Mastroberardino The soil is poor in organic substances but has a high content of clay, limestone, minerals and microelements. The vineyards are on two hills, Mirabella vineyard at 500 meters and the Montemarano vineyard at 550 meters. Because of its position on the hill and its altitude, the temperature at the Montemarano vineyard is much colder and the grapes are picked a little later. Harvest is from the end of October into the beginning of November. The vinification is the classic one for red wine, long maceration with skin contact at controlled temperatures. The wine spends one year in Slovenian oak barrels and two years in bottle, the wine can be laid down for 10 to 15 years. The riserva stays in medium sized 40 to 50 HL oak casks for 2 years and 2 years in bottle. It can live in the bottle for 25-40 years. This is a full, complex wine with hints of black cherry, plum, spice, smoke and a touch of leather.

The family estate was founded in 1878.  It was not until after WWll when Antonio Mastroberardino and his brother Walter took control of the winery that it became the leading winey not only in Campania but in all of Southern Italy. In the 1990,  Walter left to establish his on winery and Antonio kept the Mastroberardino name The winery is now in the very capable hands of his son Piero. Antonio passed away in 2014. I only met Antonio once many years ago when I tasted first the legendary 1968 Taurasi Reserve.

Borolo Cannubi 2020 Borgogno madę from 100% Nebbiolo from the highly regarded Cannubi vineyard with a southern exposure. The soil is calcareous and clay marl, lightly sandy. The vine training system is archetto variation of the Guyot system and there are 4,000 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place in October. Spontaneous fermentation carried out by indigenous yeasts for about 12 days in concrete tanks, controlled temperature (22 – 25 C initially, 29-30 at the end ), followed by submerged cup maceration for 40 – 50 days, stable temperature 29 C. After the racking off, the malolactic fermentation starts, and it lasts about 15 days at 22 C. Ageing: 4 years in Slavonian oak casks (4500L) with a further refining in bottle for 6 months. 

This is a traditional old style Barolo with extended maceration and aging in large casks without selected yeasts. It has hints of  raspberry, wild strawberry, cherry, licorice, tea,  spice and a hint of violet. These wines can age. Over the last few years I have had wines from the 1947, 1958, and 1964 vintage to name just a few. It has always been my go-to Barolo for older wines.

The estate was managed by the Borgogno family for centuries (1761) until it was acquired in 2008 by the Farinetti family, of Eataly fame, who transitioned the estate to organic farming.

***

On another note, I was very sorry to read about the passing of Emidio Pepe this week.  He was the legendary producer of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo , one of my favorite Italian red wines. He was 94 years old.

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July 20, 2026 · 1:27 am

North to South: Italian Reds from the Dolomites, Tuscany and Puglia

Italian red wines are wonderfully diverse, with flavor, texture and personality shaped by their regions. From the crisp, mountain-influenced Trentino in the north, to the refined elegance of Tuscany in central Italy and the bold, sun-soaked richness of Puglia in the south, these three wines offer a snapshot of how place shapes style.

Mezzacorona Dinotte Red Blend Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 2022  made from Teroldego, Marzemino and Merlot grapes.  For over 120 years, Mezzacorona has expressed the character of Trentino through its wines and Dinotte, the winery’s red blend rooted in native Dolomite varietals, reflects that heritage. Grown in the Dolomite Mountains, where cliff erosion and glacial deposits have sculpted granite soils across the valley vineyards, this wine captures the distinctive alpine terroir of Northern Italy. The Teroldego and Marzemino grapesmare vinified in the classic red winemaking style at 73-84°C for several days with the addition of selected yeasts. Then they are matured in French oak barrels (lightly roasted, 3 years old). Teroldego provides structure, along with deep red color and dark berry flavors, while Marzemino adds juicy, velvety lift and Merlot softens the blend, contributing subtle vanilla and cocoa notes. $16

Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022  Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. Owned by the Frescobaldi family, one of Italy’s most respected wine dynasties, Tenuta Perano is a classic estate nestled in Chianti Classico in Gaiole in Chianti where steep slopes and stony soils characterize the landscape.This Sangiovese-Merlot Chianti Classico Riserva is grown in the heart of Tuscany, where the slope and exposure of a natural amphitheater allow grapes to develop elegance and aromatic complexity. The vineyards are at 500 meters. Hand-harvested and aged 24 months in oak, the result is a beautiful red wine with a floral bouquet of violet and dog rose, red cherry fruit, hints of licorice and clove, and tertiary notes of tobacco and roasted aromas. I have always enjoyed the wines from Frescobaldi. $25

Varvaglione 12 e Mezzo Primitivo Puglia IGP Organic Wine 2023.  In the sun-drenched vineyards of southern Puglia, you’ll find Varvaglione, a family-owned winery now in its fourth generation. The winery is located in Leporano on the Gulf of Taranto in the Salento region of Puglia. They have 150 hectares of vineyards and contracts with grape growers who have been with them for over 30 years.  Their Primitivo thrives in warm, ventilated soils, mostly clay that produce grapes with intense color, ripe fruit and balanced acidity, shaping a naturally expressive, fruit-forward profile. Currant and blackberry notes are complemented by aromatic spices with a subtle coconut finish. “12 e mezzo,” meaning “12 and a half,” refers to the wine’s alcohol by volume — 12.5% — but it also reflects a deliberate stylistic choice. In a region known for powerful, high-alcohol Primitivo, Varvaglione crafted this wine to be fresher, more approachable, and exceptionally versatile at the table. The result is a modern expression of Puglia: vibrant, balanced, and designed for today’s drinker.  I  first discovered this wine on a press trip to Puglia a number of years ago $20.

A wine tour of Italy doesn’t have to be expensive.  Enjoy these three well priced wines!

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June 29, 2026 · 1:40 am

Tasting Paolo Manzone Wines with an Old Friend

Bob Shack of HB Wine Merchants is an old friend that I had not seen for a number of years. Recently, he wrote and invited me to meet him at Nonna Dora’s Tribeca for a tasting and lunch.  The wines were from Paolo Manzone Winery in Piedmont, Italy, which I have visited,

Jairo Gustavo Neira is a  winemaker and enologist who works alongside owner Paolo Manzone at the winery.  I knew Jairo from his days in NYC and it was nice to see him again. He spoke about the winery and the wines.

Paolo Manzone and his wife Luisella own and operate the estate located in Serralunga d’Alba and they farm 14 hectares of vineyards. The winery and house are located entirely in the Cru Meriame di Serralunga. The land and vineyards have been handed down from father to son for generations and the production ranges from Dolcetto d’Alba, to Barbera d’Alba, to Nebbiolo d’Alba to Barolo Gavi and  Arneis. The estate consists of hand tended vines with full regard to the traditional methods realizing the quality is made by the vines.

The Paolo Manzone Wines

Roero Arneis 2023 “Reysu” made from 100% Arneis from Corneliano D’Alba/Canale-Roero. The vineyards are at 400 meters and the exposure is southeast. Loose sandy soil with veins of tuff. There  is a soft pressing of selected whole bunches in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. Battonage is used during fermentation on the lees to enhance complexity. This wine is straw yellow with beautiful green reflections. The wine has hints of green apple, nectarine and peach with a long and pleasant finish.  Bob Shack said that this is one of the best Arneis he had ever tasted and I agreed with him.

Acciughe Marinate-marinated fresh anchovies

Gavi made from 100% Cortese grapes grown in vineyards within the township of Gavi in Piedmont. Hand harvested grapes are where the first selections are made.  They are then carried to the winery in 20 Kg bins to insure they arrive fully intact. The grapes are sorted and carefully crushed. This is followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Fermentation is followed by maturation on the fine lees for several months before the wine is finally bottled. Crisp and refreshing with hints of citrus  citrus, green apple, a hint of almond and bright acidity with a clean, mineral finish..

Panzerotti — Baby Calzones filled with San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella

Langhe Rosso 2022 “Ardi” made from Barbera and Dolcetto from Estate Vineyards.  The vineyard is 400 meters in elevation facing South East.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. First produced in 2008 from the area of Sinio, part of the wine is stainless steel aged while the other part spends time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, plums and a touch of spice with a smooth, long and pleasant finish.

Homemade Tagliatelle with Mushrooms & Salsa Tartufata

Nebbiolo D’Alba 2022 Mirine’ made from 100% Nebbiolo. The soil is clay and limestone at 400 meters with a southeast exposure.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation.  The wine has hints of cherry and dark berry notes combined with dried cranberry, spice and light cocoa aromas. Full in body with soft tannins and good acidity to keep it fresh leading to a flavorful finish.

Malloreddus–Saffron seasoned pasta with sausage and tomato ragu

Barolo Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba 2019 Made from 100% Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo grapes are sourced exclusively from vineyards within the commune of Serralunga d’Alba, known for producing some of Barolo’s most powerful wines.The exposure is southwest and the soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with extended maceration to extract structure and aromatics. The wine is aged for 38 months of which 24 months is in large Slavonian oak barrels.  The rest of the time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of cherries, red plum, licorice, tar, a note of rose pedal and a touch of spice. The finish is long, persistent, and classically Serralunga in its strength and intensity.

Gnocchi – Basil and Pinoli pesto

Barolo Meriame 2019 made from 100% Nebbiolo from a severe selection of the best fruit from the cru vineyard at 350 meters. The soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation is in stainless steel and then 90% of the wine is aged in 15 Hl Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months and 10% in French oak tonneaux. This is a bold complex wine with hints of blackberries, blueberries, licorice, a touch of tea and a hint of spice.

I enjoyed seeing Bob again and having a chance to discuss the wines with Jairo.  These are all food-friendly wines and they matched up nicely with the appetizers and fresh pastas at Nonna Dora’s.

 

 

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June 18, 2026 · 2:04 am

A Special Lunch with Good Friends

Last week we gathered a group of old friends for a long overdue luncheon at our home.  It wasn’t a particularly special occasion — we were just glad to get together.

We started with Champagne

Champagne Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Reserve Special Edition made from 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier from 50% reserve wines.  Of the 60 Champagne crus chosen to produce this cuvée, 3 are pillars of the Réserve style — Oger: (Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs) gives it its fleshy and generous notes, Ambonnay: (Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims) is synonymous with power, structure and fruity notes. Verneuil: (Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne) ensures its balance and smooth texture.  Vinification is done varietal by varietal in stainless steel vats with 5 to 10% of the wine vinified in old Burgundy barrels.  This Champagne has hints of freshly baked brioche, mango, apricot, plum, dried fruits with a touch of pistachio and almond.

Smoked Salmon Dip with Salmon Caviar and Toasts went well with the Champagne.

Greci di Tufo Riserva  2008 “ Vittorio”  Di Meo 100% Greco di Tufo from Montefusco (AV) at 750 meters.  This wine bears the name of Vittorio Di Meo, who founded the winery.  The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is clay and limestone with steep slopes on a gradient greater than 20% with a north/east exposure. There are 3,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. Harvest is the second  week of October from slightly overripe grapes. There is maceration on the skins followed by fermentation  at a controlled temperature for 12 years, then 24 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of beeswax, honey, cedar, apple, a touch of flint with good acidity and minerality. The producer refers to the wine as warm and enchanting and I have to agree.

In the early 1980’s Erminia, Generoso, and Roberto Di Meo acquired this historical estate from their parents. The estate is located in the province of Avellino in the area of Salza Irpinia and covers 25 hectares most of which is vineyards. In 1986 they produced their first wines and the Di Meo winery was born.

I visited the estated back in 2016 as part of a Campania Stories Wine Press trip.  Over the last few years I have had the great pleasure of tasting and drinking this great wine.

Bleu Cheese Flan with Arugula Salad — Mild and creamy bleu with creme fraiche and cream cheese with a lightly dressed salad.  Served on a one of our many souvenir plates from the Unione di Buon Ricordo restaurant, Rome’s Trattoria Checchino dal 1887

Chateau Lynch Bages “Pauillac” 1986  made from 73% Cabernet Sauvignon,  15% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot . This is a traditional  classic Bordeaux with hints of black cherries, blackberries, blueberries, black currants (cassis), cedar, tobacco, and cigar box. The winery has changed hands since 1986 so I am not sure how the wine was produced except that it was wonderful.

Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumbs and Sugar Snaps

Provencal Style Tian — Layered potatoes, zucchini, and tomatoes baked with Parmigiano Reggiano

Double Lamb Chops with Buttered  Sugar  Snaps  and  Vegetable  Tian

Lemon Ice with Pistachio BiscottiEspresso coffee with Pistacchio Biscotti

We finished with Grappa Capo Di Stato

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June 9, 2026 · 2:55 am

Lunch at Mozzarella & Vino NYC

Before our trip to Rome this winter, Michele and I had dinner with a friend at Mozzarella & Vino.  It’s a more casual version of Il Gattopardo located just down the street.  We enjoyed it so much and looked forward to an opportunity to go for lunch.

As always we were greeted by Paula Bolla Sorrentino, the Managing Partner.  Later Vito Gnazzo, the Chef Partner came over to discuss the menu.

We started with an assortment of antipasti, including Arancini Di Melanzane

Crisp fried rice balls filled with roasted eggplant and provola cheese on tomato sauce.

We also shared an order of Polpette di Carne

Veal and pork meatballs in herbed tomato sauce

And we couldn’t resist the M&V Tasting

which included mozzarella di bufala Campana, smoked provola and burrata Pugliese, with sweet cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil and toasted bread.

Next we shared the Ragú Napoletano

Mezze maniche pasta with slow coked Neapolitan ragú of pork ribs, beef short ribs, pecorino cheese, tomatoes and fresh basil

Our friend ordered the Salmone

Pacific salmon, pan-seared with white wine and dill, served with sautéed spinach

I couldn’t resist the Neapolitan-style Meatloaf

Filled with prosciutto, salami, boiled egg, pecorino and parsley, served with mashed potatoes. This was on the menu at Il Gattopardo and it was my favorite. They took it off a few years ago and now I am happy to say it is back at Mozzarella & Vino.

There is an extensive wine list with many of my favorite Italian wines to choose from.  Mozzarella & Vino also hosts a series of wine dinners featuring important producers from all over Italy who discuss their wines and guide guests in tastings.

With our lunch, we drank

Barbaresco  2009 Castello DI Neive made from 100% Nebbiolo which was drinking very well.

We ended our meal on a sweet note with

Torta Mascarpone Tiramisu

Located on the ground floor of a 5-story townhouse on West 54th Street, Mozzarella & Vino is directly across the street from the Museum of Modern Art. In the daytime  with its fresh airy look and  so much light coming in you would think you were sitting outside!

The restaurant is open all day and it’s the perfect spot any time of the day for an aperitivo, lunch, dinner and even breakfast.  We’ll be back again soon!

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June 1, 2026 · 2:09 am

Pairing Chablis Wines with Food

 

 

The invitation read, “The Bourgogne Wine Board is delighted to invite you to a  press dinner celebrating the diversity of Chablis wine and its pairing  with food.”  The event took place at the Time Square EDITION Hotel in NYC on its elegant terrace and outdoor gardens on the 9th floor.

The speaker was Amy Racine, Beverage Director & Partner/IF Restaurants and she spoke about Chablis and the food parings.

All Chablis is made exclusively from 100% Chardonnay and comes only from France. The region of Chablis is located in the northernmost part of Burgundy. Chablis is a town and commune in the Yonne Department in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté in north-central France. It lies in the valley of the River Serein. The vineyards are grown across a relatively small area of about 20 kilometers from north to south and around 15 from east to west. The major city closest to Chablis is Auxerre, located about 12 miles (20 km) west.

At the event we tasted wines across four appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Crus and Chablis Grand Crus, with food prepared by Michelin Star Chef John Fraser.

 Chablis producers want to emphasize the terroir of the calcareous soil and the cooler climate that helps to maintain the high acidity of Chablis. Together with the use of stainless steel, that is what helps to make Chablis one of the best expressions of the Chardonnay grape. It also makes them very excellent food wines.

Chablis and Food Pairings

Petit Chablis 2024 Daniel Dampt & Fils. The winery in Chablis northern Bourgogne is more than 150 years old. With 10 hectares (25 acres) of Chablis Premier Cru vineyards, 12 hectares (30 acres) of Petit Chablis vineyards and some from the Chablis Grand Cru appellation, the family domaine manages its vineyards sustainably to protect the environment and safeguard the natural characteristics of the Chardonnay grape. The soil in the 0.5 hectare vineyard is clay-limestone. It is light and well drained with plateau exposure.  Traditional cultivation with careful vineyard management with double Guyot pruning.  There are 5,000 plants per hectare. The average age of the vines is 10 years. Vinification is in  thermoregulated stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and typicality of  the Chardonnay. There is a pneumatic pressing followed by a temperature controlled fermentation. Everything from harvest to bottling is done on the estate. The wine is aged in stainless steel  for several months before it is bottled.

This was the lightest of the wines  with hints of citrus, vibrant, meant to be drunk young. This was served with Lobster Beignet and Kaluga Caviar in small bites.

Petit-Chablis 2023 Isabella et Denis Pommier. Denis Pommier took over the 2 hectares of family land and planted vineyards over the years. Today their are 23 hectare of vines, Petit Chablis, Chablis Premier Chablis Cru and Bourgogne appellation areas. The soil is limestone and clay on plateau sites. These higher altitude plots are mainly composed of Portlandian and limestone based soils. Average age of the vines is 15/25 years. Organic farming practices and certified organic since 2014. The harvest is mechanical. Alcoholic formation takes place with native yeasts and malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is on the lees for 6 months and there is a light fining. Aging is in stainless steel tanks for about 12 months and then the wine is bottled.

The wine has hints of citrus fruit  green apple, white flowers along with good good acidity which made it an excellent match the mousse-like goat cheese “tart.”

Chèvre Tart – Pistachio, rhubarb, pumpernickel, and mâche

Chablis 2024 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard.  This family estate was founded in 1973 by Jean Marc Brocard, now joined by his son Julien. There are almost 200 hectares of which 66 are certified organic. The soil is Kimmenidgia clay-limestone rich in mineral fossils typical of Chablis. Parcels located around the village of Préhy with a southern exposure.  Organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard to preserve the natural ecosystem. There are 5,700 plants per hectare and the average age of the vines is 30 years. There is a pneumatic pressing of the grapes and a cold settling. Alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts in thermoregulated stainless steel tanks. This is followed by a complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 7 to 9 months.

The classic expression of Chablis, this wine was crisp, aromatic with  citrus fruit, lemon and a touch of toasted almond. It was a perfect match with the refreshing razor clam ceviche.

Razor Clam Ceviche – Celery, melon, horseradish

Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaudevey 2023 Domaine Laroche. Domaine La Laroche was founded in 1850 and is one of the largest holders of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. They still produce and age their wines in the historic headquarters, known as The Obèdiencerie. Founded in 1850, Domaine Laroche has led movements to raise the quality of the appellation with the creation of a charter of excellence for the Grand Cru producers.  Les Vaudeve  is located in a cool and narrow valley. Sun appears in the early morning and lasts until mid-afternoon. The ripening of grapes is slow, which helps aromas to concentrate and preserve acidity. One single plot of almost 10 hectares has no more than 5 producers crafting wines from this Cru. Sorting takes place at the entrance of the cellar. Then a gentle pressing of the grapes at low pressure to extract press core only. Fermentation is in French oak barrels (15%) and in stainless steel (85%). Aged 12 months in the same containers on fine lees. After the blending, a new maturing on fine lees will take place until bottling.

This is a wine with hints of citrus fruit, green apple and a touch of vanilla.

Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre 2023 Domaine William Fevre  Is one of the largest owners of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. Founded in1959 it is now part of the Lafite group. An appellation of 43 hectares on the right bank of the Serein, extending from the Grands Crus Les Clos and Blanchot. With a geological structure similar to the Grands Crus and a very good exposure, this terroir ranks among the greatest of the Premiers Crus. Wine making uses the application of the principle of gravity to avoid any pumping, which could alter the quality of the wine. Short-duration pneumatic pressing (1h30 to 2h00) for a delicate separation between the solid and liquid parts of the grapes. Very light static settling to retain enough fine lees for the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations to occur naturally. The vinifications are carried out in stainless steel vats. Aging lasts 19 months, including 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 35% of the blend with a minority in new oak.The aging process finishes in small stainless steel tanks.

This is a more complex wine, with hints of lemon, green apple,  minerality, a touch of chalk and a hint of flint. The wine will age. It was very daring for the chef to pair it with an Italian pasta but it worked.

Sweet Pea Agnolotti – Fennel soubise, pancetta, lion’s mane mushrooms, nasturtium

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2019 J. Moreau & Fils founded in 1814. this is one of the historic in Chablis. From among the seven prestigious climates located in the commune of Chablis, the 11.92 hectares of Valmur stretch across a “valley” at the heart of the appellation, running alongside that of Vaudésir as well as Grenouilles and Les Clos. Its location, offering subtle variations of exposition and altitude, enable more varied wines to be produced here than in the other vineyards. Moreau’s selection concerns 2 ha of the vineyard. Chalky scree slopes overlying Kimmeridgian marl. The soil is heavy and is strewn with small fossilized oysters known as “Exogyra Virgula.”  The grapes come from a select plot of old vines.  Both grapes and must were brought in  together. There is a long pneumatic pressing followed by a static settling. Alcoholic fermentation began in stainless steel tanks using selected yeasts. After 3 days, 10% of the juice was transferred to fine-grained barrels of selected origin. Alcoholic fermentation was complete in 10 days.  Selected yeasts were added to induce malolactic fermentation in mid-October.  Malolactic fermentation was complete by mid-November. Aging for about 18 months.  The barrel-fermented wine was stirred weekly while the tank-fermented wine was stirred twice a month.

This was the most concentrated and complex of the wines with hints of grapefruit, lemon a touch a honey and a note of vanilla. The  wine  will age for a number of years.  It  paired well with the next course of sole and its accompaniments.

NY Sole – White asparagus, young leek, zucchini blossom, foie gras mousse, brown butter crumble.

I enjoyed this rare opportunity to sample a range of Chablis and explore the possibilities of pairing Chablis with a variety of foods.

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May 21, 2026 · 2:43 am

The Wines of San Salvatore 1988

Falanghina, a white wine from Campania, is my favorite wine to enjoy with seafood. One I particularly enjoy is the Falanghina from Azienda Agricola San Salvatore 1988.  Recently I was invited  by Serena Valeriani from Miriade & Partners to a lunch featuring the wines of San Salvatore and, since I was unfamiliar with the rest of their wines, I was only too happy to attend in order to learn more. Thr lunch was held at Audace Ristorante in NYC.

The speakers were Giuseppe Pagano, Founder and CEO, and Elena Spadoni Waxman, the Brand Ambassador, who also acted as a translator for Mr. Pagano.

I was very impressed by Mr. Pagano who was not only very enthusiastic about his winery but also about the history and geography of the area were his winery is located. He explained the geography and terroir and spoke about the history going back to the ancient Greeks.

Azienda Agricola San Salvatore is located in the middle of the National Park of Cilento, near Paestum in the Campania region of southern Italy. In 2006 Giuseppe Pagano, a successful entrepreneur and hotelier in the Paestum region of Campania, created San Salvatore 1988.  The winery is named for Giuseppe’s firstborn son, Salvatore, who was born in 1988.

San Salvatore has quickly become one of Italy’s most environmentally-conscious azienda agricolas. There are 149 hectares devoted to organically farmed agriculture, including vineyards, olive groves, and crops that support their 550-head of water buffalo.

They make mozzarella, yogurt and gelato from the buffalo milk. Mr Pagano  said there was also a restaurant on the property.

The Wines

Campania Falangina IGP 2023 made from 100% single variety Falanghina from the Cannito vineyard planted in 2008 at 150/210 meters. The exposure is south, southwest and the soil is of medium texture and deep. The training system is espalier with Guyot pruning.  The average age of the vines is 19 years. After manual harvesting the finest bunches, the grapes are softly pressed and subjected to cold maceration for 6 hours at 4C. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a low temperature. Before bottling, the wine ages on the lees for 6 months in stainless steel tanks. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, green apple, a touch of pineapple and a note of apricot.

Paestum Fiano IGP 2021 Pian Di Stio made from 100% Fiano. These grapes come from a special cru in the Stio vineyard chosen annually. The vines are at 550/650 meters and the exposure is south. Soil composition is clay and limestone. There is 6 hours of cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation in stainless steel. Aging is in French oak barriques and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of peach, green apple, vanilla, almonds a hint of fig and a touch of honey.

Campania Rosato IGP 2024 Vetere made from 100% Aglianico from an ancient terroir, in a vineyard in the shadow of the temples of Paestum, in the heart of the Cilento National Park. This wine takes its name from Magliano Vetere, a small town in the Cilento National Park near San Salvatore’s Cannito vineyards where the organic grapes used to make this wine are grown. The vines are at 150/210 meters and were planted in 2008. The exposure is south/southwest and the soil is clay and limestone. There is a cold maceration for 6 hours, followed by a soft pressing of the grapes with brief contact with the skins to extract the smallest amount of color and elegant refined aromas. Elena described it as ,“A rosé with a Provençal color yet one that speaks of the entire Cilento Region.”  She also said Mr. Pagano went to Provence to see how the rosè was made there.  The wine has hints of red fruit, strawberries, rasperries with a touch of violets and a note of citrus fruit.

Paestum Aglianico  IGP 2016 Omaggio a Gillodorfles made from 100% Aglianico. Mr Pagano said this wine is named for Gillo Dorfles, an Italian genius of the 20th Century. He was in love with Paestum and with the majesty of its history. He spent his summers here enjoying art, the sea, the temples as well as the vineyards of San Salvatore.  He was a professor of aesthetics at the University of Milan and Trieste and an artist. Above all, he was in love with Paestum and its majesty. Mr. Pagano decided to dedicate sixteen vintages of this wine to him.

The vineyard was planted in 2005 at 150/210 meters with a south/southwest exposure. The soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for 30 days. Aging: 24 months in new French oak barrels, 1/3 Allier, 1/3 Nevers and 1/3 Troncais. The wine has hints of cherry, blueberry, blackcurrant, blackberry, violet a hint of juniper and a touch of chocolate.

Pastrami Aglianico IGP 2017  Omaggio a Gillodorfles this is a very intense wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, blueberry, raspberry with a touch of spice and balsamic notes.

Mr. Pagano said that the 2016 was a exceptional year for Aglianico while 2017 was very warm and produced wines which had jammy fruit and will be ready to drink sooner. They were very different wines.

Paestum Aglianico  IGP Jungano 2021 made from 100% Aglianico. This wine is named for the town of Giungano where the San Salvatore winery is located. The vineyards are at 150/210 meters and were planted in 2008. The exposure is south/southeast and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are vinified at a controlled temperature. The wine is matured in stainless steel and aged for a year in stainless steel and wood. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberries, violets and spice.

It was my pleasure to meet Mr. Pagano and taste a range of his wines.  I am happy to report that I enjoyed them as much as his Falanghina.

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