56 Vintages of Cascina Castlet by Mariuccia Borio

Recently, my friend Lars Leicht put me in touch with Mariuccia Borio of Cascina Castlet so that she could bring me up to date on their latest production.  I have  been  drinking  wines  from  Cascina  Castlet for over 25 years when I first met Mariuccia Borio at Vinitaly, the annual wine fair in Verona. I was so impressed with the wines that we carried them at I Trulli Restaurant in Manhattan when I was the sommelier/wine director.

Cascina Castlet, located in Costigliole d’Asti in Piemonte, has belonged to the Borio family for generations. In 1970, Mariuccia inherited the 5 hectare estate from her father and has been running the winery ever since.  She wrote to me saying in part, “For me, taking care of this land means, above all, respecting it.  Biodiversity, environmental stewardship and the natural balance of our vineyards have become an essential part of the way we work.  Among the vines, trees, wild plants animals and insects coexist — a living ecosystem that I consider an integral part of Cascina Castlet’s heritage.”

Her passion for wine making extends beyond her own winery.  In 1988, Mariuccia was one of the founding members of  Le Donne del Vino, the national association of women in Italian wine. For nine years she served as the regional delegate for Piemonte, energizing the network and strengthening the collective voice of women producers.

Mariuccia sent me some of her wines to taste.  There are six wines listed below.  Four of them I have enjoyed over the years but two are new to me: A TAJ and Castlet Rosé

Piedmont Chardonnay DOC  2025 “A TAJ” made from 100% Chardonnay. In Piedmontese, “A TAJ” means useful, nice, just reaching the right point; a name suited to a new, young wine, born to be the companion of those who love good food. The vineyards, with their upward-trained, vertical-trellised vines, on fairly loose soil, have a rootstock density of about 4500 per hectare. Harvesting is carried out manually, in the first 10 days of September, when the grapes reach their peak ripeness. The bunches are placed delicately into baskets and sent off to be vinified in the shortest time possible. The must obtained from soft pressing is cooled and statically decanted. Alcoholic fermentation, with the use of selected yeasts, takes place at an average temperature 18°C. The wine is left on its fine lees in stainless-steel vats until bottling. Due to its characteristic freshness, it is put on the market soon after bottling. Given the noble origins of the vine, this wine could be kept for some years, but the winery advises to drink it young so as to gain the maximum pleasure from its fragrance. This is a fruity fresh wine with hints of apples, lemon, white peach and a note of pear. It should be served chilled but not cold.

Castlet Rosé (Vino Rosato) made mostly from  Barbera with a small amount of Nebbiolo. The vines are cultivated using the Cordon Training method in fairly permeable soil with a density of around 4500 vines per hectare. The grape yield is kept low in order to ensure perfectly healthy and ripe fruit at harvest.Grapes are harvested towards the end of September, when they have ripened to perfection. The bunches are picked, carefully placed into baskets and immediately sent to the winery for vinification. After a short period of maceration on the skins, the must is separated and cooled before alcoholic fermentation takes place at an average temperature of 18°C. The wine is then aged for a few months in stainless steel vats and bottled in the following spring. This is a fresh and fruity wine with hints of cherry, raspberries, strawberries and a touch of blackcurrants.  I would drink this wine young and chilled.

The label tells a  family story: the snapshot from the 1950s shows young Mariuccia Borio sitting in the back on the Vespa–and three little girls–her cousins during a holiday afternoon.

Barbera d’ Asti DOC 2025 made from 100% Barbera grapes from hillside vineyards, which are more than 30 ears old. There are about 5,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are hand picked the first weeks of October. At the winery the must is fermented in contact with the skins at a controlled temperature for about 10 days. This is followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in medium sized oak casks for about 8 months and then in bottle for more than one year. The wine is released the second year after the harvest. The wine has hints of cherries, strawberries, blackberries, and violets, with floral notes and good acidity.Because Barbera is a red grape with good acidity this wine can go with many different foods.  Even though this is an early drinking wine it still has all the classic Barbera characteristics.

This Barbera d’Asti DOC with its iconic Vespa label is the historical heart of the Cascina.

Mocsato d’Asti DOCG  2025.  This sparkling (frizzante) wine is made from 100% Moscato d’Asti. The vineyards are on well-exposed hillsides and there are about 5,000 vines per hectare. The grapes are picked by hand the first two weeks of September when they have acquired a yellow, old gold color and are ripe and juicy. Selected grapes are sent directly to the winery where they are soft pressed. The must is then cooled and filtered. The foaming is the result of a natural fermentation in an autoclave and an isobaric filler is used for bottling. This is a wine that should be drunk very young. The alcohol content is only 5.5%. The wine has a flowery and fruity bouquet with hints of apricot, peach a touch of orange blossoms and a note of honeysuckle.  This is a wine that can be served as a aperitif or as a dessert wine.

Litina Barbera d’Asti Superiore 2021 made from 100% Barbera grapes from hillside vineyards, which are more than 30 ears old. There are about 5,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are hand picked the first weeks of October. The must is fermented in contact with the skins at a controlled temperature for about 10 days. This is followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in medium sized oak casks for about 8 months and then in bottle for more than one year. It is released the second year after the harvest. This is a full-bodied  wine with hints of strawberries, cherries, plum, blackberry, a touch of chocolate and a hint of spice.

Passum Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore 2021 made from 100% Barbera which comes from long established vineyards. The grapes are hand-picked in the middle of October and rushed to the winery for semi-drying in special are-conditioned, well-ventilated rooms. The duration of the drying depends on the vintage and therefore varies from year to year. The oenologist frequently inspects the condition of the bunches and the sugar content of the grapes. The stalkless grapes are pressed and fermented in contact with the skins in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The addition of selected yeasts along with frequent remontages causes regular alcoholic fermentation over the course of 15 to 18 days. The wine is then racked and kept in ideal conditions for the completion of malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in French oak barriques and medium sized conventional vats for about a year and another 6 months or more in bottle before release. At 15.5% alcohol it is a complex full bodied wine with hints of plum, cherry raspberry, red fruit jam, with a touch of chocolate and a hint of spice. This is a wine that will age.  I drank the 1979 a few years ago and it was wonderful.

 

Cascina Castlet also produces Barbera Monferrato DOC, “Goj”, Monferreto Rosso DOC, Uceine, Piemonte DOC Moscato Passito Avié, and Grappa.

Thank you to Lars Leicht for putting me in contact with Mariuccia Borio once again.

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Enjoying Capanna Wines from Montalcino

When Virginia Cademartori, head of PR and Communications Platinum Media LLC, suggested I meet with Gabrielle Casagrande, the Export Manager of  the Capanna Winery in Montalcino for breakfast while he was in NYC, I was a little skeptical.  How would I taste the wines over coffee?

But when I met with Gabriele Casagrande, we had a great conversation, covering everything from the Italian wine industry to Italian wine writers today, to the weather, grappa, the 1996 vintage and much more.   I found that we agreed on many subjects!

Gabriele told me about the Capanna Winery which was founded by Giuseppe Cencioni in 1957 and is still owned by the Cencioni Family.  The winery is located in the northern part of Montalcino. Their vineyards are all within a 2 km radius from the cellar in Montosoli, which has always been considered one of the best areas for producing Brunello.

By the 1960’s, the family began to bottle their wines and after the DOC recognition of Brunello di Montalcino in 1966, Giuseppe Cencioni was one of the 25 founders of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. Today the 25 hectares of vineyards are spread mostly around the Montosoli hill, one of the historic crus of Montalcino. It  enjoys a very special microclimate and the vines are planted at an altitude of between 250 and 300 meters above sea level in soil that is predominantly clay (galestro), limestone and skeleton-rich. The vineyards are cared for using innovative agricultural practices aimed at improving the ecosystem side-by-side with tradition. They have introduced cutting edge technology, for example, temperature control in every phase of transformation as well as the automatic pump-over system.  All the historic rooms, just like the rooms for bottling, labeling, packaging and storage, are temperature controlled to have constant and optimal conditions to ensure the perfect preservation of our wines. Capanna has always maintained a production style in line with the tradition, handed down from generation to generation.

Gabriele brought three wines for me to take and drink at home. This gave me the opportunity to taste the wines and pair them with food an opportunity I do not often have.

The Capanna wines

Bianco Toscana IGT “SanGioBi” 2024 made from 100% Sangiovese. It is a paper white wine made from a red grape.  Harvest and selection is by hand. The grapes are destemmed and crushed as soon as possible. Then a soft pressing of the grapes, followed by  fermentation in stainless steel at a low temperature (12 -14 degrees C) for about 1 month. The wine is aged in 10 hl oak barrels for several months and released 6 to 8 months after the harvest. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, green apple, pear, a touch of spice and is crisp with good acidity. Gabriele said because the this white wine is made from a red grape and aged in wood it can be drunk now but could also age for a few years.

We had a summer favorite, Stracci di Pasta con Mille Herbe, Ragged Pasta with a Thousand Herbs, from Michele’s early books, A Fresh Taste of Italy and also published in Gourmet Magazine.Michele’s handmade pasta is tossed with an uncooked sauce of chopped fresh tomatoes, a multitude of fresh herbs, and pecorino Romano cheese.

Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2024 made from 100% Sangiovese. Harvest is in late September and early October. Alcoholic fermentation with maceration of the skins (18-20 days) at a controlled temperature and spontaneous malolactic fermentation, both take place in truncated cone-shaped Slavonian oak casks. Aging is in Slavonian oak casks of 20 to 32 hl for 6-10 months; followed by aging in bottles for at least 3-4 months. The wine is released 15 to 18 months after the harvest. Gabriele said this was a lighter style Rosso because of the climatic conditions.  The wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, blackberries, and spice with touch of violet and a note of lavendar. Gabriele said the Rosso in this vintage offers excellent structure and early drinkability while retaining classic Tuscan characteristics.

I brought the wine to the home of a friend and we enjoyed it with a casual lunch of prosciutto, mortadella, soppressata, and cheese with olives.

Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2021 made from 100% Sangiovese carefully selected in the oldest vineyards. Alcoholic fermentation takes place with maceration of the skins for 25-30 days at a controlled temperature followed by spontaneous malolactic fermentation. Both take place in truncated cone-shaped Slavonian oak vats. Aging is in Slavonian oak barrels from 10 to 32 hl for about 30-36 months. Then the wine is aged in the bottle for at least 6 months before being released in January of the fifth year after the harvest.  This is a full bodied, complex traditional Brunello with hints of black cherries, cranberries, strawberries, violets with a touch of licorice and hint of tobacco. This is an exceptional Brunello.

Michele and I thought this wine was a perfect match with an herbed rack of lamb we enjoyed on another occasion.

The  Capanna Winery also makes other wines, including a Moscadello di Montalcino, and a late harvest Moscadello di Montalcino, as well as olive oil and grappa. The property is also home to Capanna Suites, an Agriturismo, Spa & Wine Club, and a restaurant called Il Passaggio which would be worth a visit if you are in the area.

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James Suckling: Great Wines Italy, NYC

James Suckling’s Great Wines Italy wine tasting in New York this year featured more than 350 wines from 180 producers across 20 Italian wine regions.

I always enjoy going because I can visit producers, discover new wines, and speak with the winemakers, owners and winery representatives pouring throughout the event. I can also see and talk with friends in the wine business and sometimes meet new ones,

Hear are some of the highlights

Sagrantino di Montefalco Chiusa di Pannone DOCG  (Umbria) Antonelli San Marco.  Made from 100% Sagrantino. Chuisa di Pannone is a 2.70-hectare vineyard planted in 1995. It is at 400 meters, with a southern exposure with rows following the slope. The harvest generally takes place at the end of October. There are gravity feed tanks on the two levels of the cellar. Fermentation with skin contact takes place for 3 to 4 weeks. Malolactic fermentation is in wood. The wine is aged in 500 liter barrels for six months and 25 hl barrels for 12 months. The wine is not filtered. It is released five years after the harvest. This is a well-structured, rich and complex wine with hints of plums, blackberries, mushrooms, herbs, a touch of mint and note of citrus. It can age for 30 years. This is a very impressive wine and Antonelli is my favorite producer of Sagrantino.

I first met Filippo Antonelli at the winery a number of years ago. Since then I have seen him in NYC and Italy on  a number occasions. A few years ago I was invited to his apartment in Rome for a wine tasting.  He is a true gentleman.

Podere Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montpulciano Riserva 2021 DOCG Tuscany.  Usually mostly Prugnolo Gentile, and  a small amount of Colorino. From rolling hills at 300 meters going down to the river Chiana. Soil is silt and clay. The vines are 6 to 35 years old and are selected from clones in their own vineyards. There are 6,000 plants per hectare. Grapes are selected at harvest by hand into small crates 2/3 of capacity and there is another selection in the cellar. Fermentation is with the stalks and after a soft pressing the grapes ferment in little vats of steel and oak–only to 3/4 of capacity. Fermentation lasts for one week at 28/30º C. Maceration for 5 to 8 days. Only natural yeasts are used. Aging is in 350/2,000 liter barrels of Slovenian oak or French Allier. A little filtration is carried out before bottling if necessary. The wine has hints of cherry, raspberries, violets and spice. I have liked this wine for a very long time.

Chianti Classico Castello La Lecca 2022 made from 100% Sangiovese, Tuscany. The vineyards are at 350/500 meters with a south/southwest exposure. There are 5,200 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Soil is alberese and sillano formation. Harvest is by hand from September to October with vineyard selection. The destemmed and gently crushed berries are transferred to steel tanks at a controlled temperature and undergo a pre-fermentative cryomaceration for 24 hours. Then the alcoholic fermentation with a temperature of 26°.  There is short and frequent pumping over. Maceration with the skins lasts about 10-12 days. After racking, malolactic fermentation and maturation in concrete tanks follows. Maturation for 12 months; 8 months in concrete tanks and 4 months in oak barrels (made in France, capacity 2,000 to 2,500 liters). Minimum 3 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, strawberries, pomegranate, violets and spice.

Morellino di Scansano 2022 “Bellamarsilia” PoggioargentierA made from 100% Sangiovese from the Maremma (Tuscany). There are 5,600 vines per hectare and the training system is cordon spur. Vineyards are in the Baccinello area, 350 meters above sea level with soils rich in pebbles of alluvial origin and a prevalence of calcareous clays in the soil. Vineyards in Alberese area are at sea level with a prevalence of sand and loam in the soil. Harvest is manual. Approximately two weeks of contact between must and skins, both fermentation and aging in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in order to obtain a good extraction of both color and structuring elements, and aromas and favors of high quality. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, raspberry, red plum, balsamic notes and a touch of herbs.

Sauvignon “Greel” Riserva 2019 Sudtirol, Alto Adige DOC Riserva 2019 Kellerei Bozen made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyards are on steep porphyry slopes on the Renon, above Bolzano at 550 meters. Harvest is in September. There is a gentle pressing, fermentation and maturation in barriques and tonneau with further aging in the bottle. The wine has hints of gooseberries, elderflower, and herbal notes with a hint of tropical fruit and an elegant finish.

I Frati Lugana DOC Cà dei Frati made from 100% Turbiana, an indigenous grape variety cultivated around the Lake Garda area in Lombardia. The soil is limestone and clay. There is a soft pressing of the grapes reduced with inert gas. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel. The wine is aged for a minimum of 6 months in steel tanks on the lees and for 2 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apricot, almonds, spice and candied fruit as it ages.

Moscato D’Asti DOCG Vigna Vecchia 2019 Cadgal made from 100% Moscato d’Asti from vines in Valdivilla (Canelli) Piedmont which are over 60 years old. This is not your standard Moscato d’Asti which is made to be fresh, fruity and to be drunk young. The grapes for this wine are harvested with great care by hand and then they are treated to a unique aging process. After a careful selection, a portion of the grapes undergo an “appassimento”, gently drying to concentrate their flavors. The wine is then aged for up to 60 months, resting in wooden crates and buried beneath river sand. This unconventional method imbues the wine with an unparalleled complexity, allowing it to develop layers of aroma and taste that are nothing short of extraordinary. The wine has fruity hints of green, apple, peach, apricot with a touch of sage and a note of rosemary and a drop of honey. This wine was new to me and it was unlike any Moscato D’Asti I have ever tasted before. WOW.

Mater Matuta Lazio Rosso IGT. Casale del Giglio (Lazio). Made from 85% Syrah and 15 % Petit Verdot (proportions may vary slightly depending on the vintage.) The grapes are harvested when fully ripe and the Syrah may be slightly shriveled, and vinified in different ways. Submerged cap is used for the Syrah, which ferments on native yeasts for 18 to 20 days. During the first few days délestage takes place several times. Punching down is used for the Petit Verdot for the extraction of the grape’s tannins and polyphenolic compounds. The full-bodied Petit Verdot gives the wine its long aging potential, and the Syrah gives complexity of character. Each new wine goes into new barriques. Color, tannins and aromas still present in the fermented skins are extracted in the soft presses to which they slide by gravity. After 22 to 24 months in oak ,the wines are blended and left in the bottle for another 10 to 12 months. This is a big complex wine with hints of black cherry, spice, cinnamon and violets. It has a long finish and very pleasing aftertaste. This is their flagship wine. The name comes from the ancient Italic goddess of the dawn.

I visited the winery a few years ago and had a great time. At lunchtime, we had a great meal in the winery, two of my favorite pastas:  Mezze Maniche alla Gricia and Bucatini all Amatriciana and they were as good, if not better, than any I have eaten in Rome!

Linda Siddera, International Events and Hospitality Coordinator for Casale del Giglio, whom I had met when I visited the winery, was  pouring wines at the stand.  We talked about the winery and hoped we could get together next time when I am in Rome.

Vermentino di Gallura DOCG Superiore Selenu. Madę from 100% Vermentino Tenute Gregu.  The winery is located in Calangianus, Sardinia. Grapes are picked at the first light of the morning, still wet from the dew of the night. The soil is granite and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the first week of October. Selected grapes are destemmed and then pressed. The must is clarified by static settling at a controlled temperature. Fermentation is with selected yeasts. The wine is then left in contact with the yeast for four months. The wine has hints of ripe fruit, lemon peel, orange blossom, white flowers with a touch of pineapple and a note of herbs.

This is just a small sample of the many wines I tasted.  Next time I will write about some more.

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Celebrating My Birthday with Friends

Last week was my birthday and we celebrated for a number of days. Here are some of the highlights:

The first celebration was in Brooklyn with Tony and Roger. It was also Roger’s birthday and the theme was “Dinner under the Fig Tree” because a large fig tree is the centerpiece of their beautiful garden.

We started with perfectly ripe figs wrapped in prosciutto

and a tender pork loin roast with fig sauce.  We dined al fresco and everything was delicious.

Barolo Rocche 1997 Vietti made from 100% Nebbiolo.  This wine was made by the late Alfredo Currado, one of the most beloved and respected wine makers in Piedmont. It was fantastic with hints of black cherry, plum, roses, tar, leather and a touch of  licorice. Classical Barolo at its best.

The next celebration was in NJ at restaurant Caldwell Seafood and had soft shell crabs. a favorite of mine.  They were perfect.

Michele had grilled sesame tuna which she also enjoyed.  The wine of the evening was

Meursault-Perrieres Robert Ampeau &Fils 1995 made from 100% Chardonnay. Les Perrières is considered the most prestigious Premier Cru in Meursault, and often yields Grand Cru quality. It’s one of my favorite white wines. It is  rich and complex with hints of honey, hazelnuts, candied lemons, dried apples, buttery notes and a flinty minerality.

Gattinara 1998 Vallana made from 100% Spanna (local name for Nebbiolo). The wine has hints of cherry, dried rose petals, tar, leather, tobacco and a hint of spice. It was in perfect condition and at its peak. I have a long history with Vallana going back to the 1950’s vintages and many of their other wines.

Spaghetti Puttanesca  by Michele was perfect with the Gattinara

Barolo Monfortino Reserve 1995  Giacomo Conterno made from 100% Nebbiolo. The wine has hits of cherry, raspberry, tar, licorice, leather and dried rose petals. This was a special treat since I have not had an opportunity to drink a Monfortino in a number of years since they have become so expensive.  

Roast Pork with potatoes prepared by Michele

Comtes De Champagne Grands Crus-Blanc de Blancs 2011 Tattinger, made from 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay. The wine has hints of ginger, mandarin, white peach, lemon, a hint of toasted brioche and a note of almond paste. This is one of my favorite champagnes. It is a great combination with sushi.

Sushi

Champagne Bollinger 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier. It has hints of peach, ginger, pastry crust and a touch of spice.

 

Perfectly ripe figs wrapped in prosciutto were an appetizer for my last birthday dinner.  Can’t get enough of them!

Friends had just returned from France and had Michele and I over for dinner for another birthday celebration.  Roast rack of lamb with potatoes and green beans was the main course, perfectly paired with

Pommard “Les Regiens” 2010 Premier Cru  Faiveley made from 100% Pinot Noir. The wine has hints of cherry, red currants, forrest berries with a hint of spice and floral notes. This is a very impressive wine.

Thanks to my friends Tony and Roger, Ernie and Judith and Nat who made this a very special birthday.

 

 

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Tasting the Wines of Abruzzo

Recently I had an opportunity to taste a range of fine wines from the Abruzzo Region of Italy.


Located to the east of Rome, the region of Abruzzo has everything going for it. There are beautiful national parks, a long coastline on the Adriatic, the rugged snowcapped Apennine Mountains, and little medieval towns perched precariously on hilltops. Abruzzo is situated between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella massif. It is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy with three national parks and more than ten national and regional natural reserves.  Abruzzo geographically is more central than southern Italy, but due to its connection with the old Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, it is considered part of the South. Abruzzo is divided into four provinces: L’Aquila, Teramo, Pescara, and Chieti. Over two-thirds of the wine in Abruzzo is produced by cooperatives.

Most vineyards are in hilly areas of which 75% are in the province of Chieti. The traditional vine training method is the Tendone system also known as Pergola Abruzzese. The vines are grown along vertical posts and wires to a height of about 6 feet. The vines are planted 2 meters apart in parallel rows 2 meters apart. The leaves grow over the top to form a canopy (pergola) to protect the grapes from the hot Abruzzo sun. The Tendone has always been the way to grow table grapes in the area and it is easier to pick the grapes without having to bend down.

Tasting the Wines

The three most important wine designations in Abruzzo are: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (red), Cerasuolo (rose), and Trebbiano D’Abruzzo (white). Recently Pecorino (white) has become more important. In terms of the quantity of wine produced, the Abruzzo region is seventh in Italy.

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino  Terre di Chieti Superiore Bio Aime 2025 Cascina Del Colle. Made from 100% Pecorino. This is a family-owned organic winery located in Villamagna. The winery was established in 1997 by the D’Onofrio family.  The estate spans roughly 18 hectares of vineyards and olive groves situated about 300 meters above sea level, sitting in a unique microclimate between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea. The winery specializes in native Abruzzo grape varieties and is famously known for hand-numbering every single bottle it produces. The vineyards face east/north east at 121 meters. Soil is of a medium texture and the training system is spurred cordon row. Vinification is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 4 months in stainless steel. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, green apple, and a touch of apricot.

Abruzzo DOC Pecorino  made from 100% Pecorino Avalos Lauri.  The wine is produced in the Colline Pescaresi PGI/DOC area within Loreto Aprutino. The estate vineyards were planted 2004 at 359 meters in calcareous soil. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand in mid September. The grapes are completely destemmed  and undergo a period of skin contact at cool temperatures to pull maximum aromatics from the skins without extracting bitter tannins. There is a gentle pneumatic press used to softly extract the high-quality free-run juice.  The clarified grape must undergoes alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 12 days. Temperatures are maintained strictly between 16–18 °C to preserve delicate floral and fruit volatile compounds. The wine is aged entirely in stainless steel (no oak contact) and rests in the bottle for two months before release to maintain its clean, vibrant profile. The winery utilizes renewable energy and has certified its wines as 100% vegan. It has hints of ripe pear, green apple, apricot,  jasmine, and citrus aromas, balanced by a crisp mineral finish.

Ottobre Rosso Montepulciano D’ Abruzzo  made from 100% Montepulican0 Production area Villamagna (Chieti) Tenuta I Fauri   The soil is clay calcareous. There are 3,000 vines per hectare  and the training and pruning method is single curtain. Fermentative maceration is for 10/12 days in concrete vats and then racking.   The wine is aged  for 9 months in concrete vats.   This is a wine with hints of  red fruit, cherry, clove, orange peel a touch of spice and a hint of herbs. The winery was certified organic with the 2021 vintage. I visited the winery a few years ago and tasted  the wines on a number of occasions and was always impressed with them. This is an elegant wine with hints of  wild cherry, raspberry, strawberry with a touch of spice and a hint of licorice.

Cerasuolo  D’Abruzz0 Superiore 2025 Tenutarossa made from 100%  Montepulciano D’Abruzzo.  It is the flagship wine line produced by the Pasetti Vini winery, a renowned family-run estate The line serves as the winery’s “crown jewel.”  The name honors the striking heritage of red-haired women within the Pasetti family.  The grapes  are cultivated high in the Pescosansonesco vineyards, situated at 550 meters above sea level within the foothills of the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park.  The soil is clay-calcareous rich in organic matter. There are dramatic day-to-night temperature swings balanced by refreshing Adriatic Sea breezes. Clay-calcareous land rich in organic matter. Manual harvest takes place in late October and early November. The juice undergoes skin-contact maceration and alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for 8 to 10 days. This is followed by malolactic fermentation.   The wine has hints blackberry, dark cherry, and stewed plum, soil, tobacco, leather, and cocoa.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Colline Teramane Neromoro Fattoria Nicodemi  !100% Montepulciano from the Tramo hills at 300 meters. The soil is of medium textured limestone and clay. There are 1,600 plants per hectare and the training system is Abruzzo pergola. Average age of the vines is 50 years. Harvest takes place the second 10 days in October. The grapes are destemmed followed by a maceration of 15 to 20 days with fermentation in vertical vats. Aging is in new and second passage barriques for 16 to 18 months. There is racking but no fining or filtration before bottling. The wine remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, black currant and a note of balsamic.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Duca Thaulero made from 100% Montepulciano. The Cantina Casal Thaulero takes its name from the small town of Casal Thaulero (TE) where the rolling hills of Abruzzo meet the Adriatic Sea which takes its name from Duke Giovanni Thaulero, the grandfather of Abruzzo viticulture. Grapes are carefully picked by hand to prevent the skins from bruising before they reach the crushing pads.  The juice ferments in stainless steel vats directly in contact with the grape skins. This contact allows the alcohol to extract anthocyanins (color) and rich, structural tannins from the skins. After the initial alcoholic fermentation, a natural secondary bacterial fermentation occurs. This converts sharp malic acid into smooth lactic acid, giving the wine its signature velvety texture. The wine undergoes an extensive aging period in large oak barrels. The wood interaction oxygenates the wine, softening the tannins and adding complex secondary notes of leather, prune, blackberry, spice, and dark balsamic. I have a long history with Cantina Casal Thaulero going back many years and they introduced me to the wines of Abruzz0. The wine has hints of black cherry, blackberries, plums, tobacco and a note of licorice.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva 2015 “Casauria”  Podere Castorani made from 100% Montepulciano. The training system is the traditional overhead “pergola” trellis system of the Abruzzo region. The soil is deep clay with many underground rocks. Harvest is by hand the beginning of November with grape selection. Fermentation is in concrete tanks with manual pump over and delestages and extended maceration. Malolactic fermentation is completed during skin maceration. The wines ages on the lees in oak barrels and then for 6 months in concrete tanks. Finally the wine remains in bottle for 15 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, cranberries, licorice, a touch of spice and a note of tobacco.

It was a pleasure for me to reacquaint myself with these wines.

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Lunch with Friends from Rome

Some of our Roman friends come to the US in August every year to escape the very hot weather in Rome. Our friend from New Jersey always invites all us to his home for lunch.  Michele does the food preparation.

Suenen Champagne Extra Brut OIRY Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru made from 100% Chardonnay from a 1.5 hectare plot in the Grand Cru village of Cramant. The soil is chalky. The clear wine is fermented partially in barrel with 9 months on the lees and the dosage is 2g/l. It is delicate and dry with hints of lemon, quinine, floral notes and a trace of minerals.

We had this with two very wonderful appetizers.  I could have made a meal of just the two of them with the Champagne, but there was much great wine and food to follow!

Mortadella Mousse. This was very difficult to stop eating.  Toasted pistachios top a smooth blend of mortadella, ricotta and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Roasted Figs with Goat Cheese and Thyme. Susan Westmoreland brought this one.  It was a delicious reminder of a dear friend, the late food writer and author Marie Simmons, who first developed this recipe.  The warm figs and cheese are drizzled with honey.

Barbera d’ Asti “Vigna Noce” 2010  Antica Azienda Agricola Trinchero.  Made from 100% Barbera.  The winery belongs to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists, an association of wine producers from around the world that believes in organic and bio-dynamic production, terroir and as little interference as possible by the wine maker. Only natural yeast is used, there is no acidification of the wine, clarification and filtration does not take place. Chemical treatments are not used in the vineyards; copper and sulfur are used but only when it is really necessary. The wine is aged for 7 years in large chestnut barrels. This is a traditional, classic Barbera that will last for at least another 10 years. I was very impressed with this wine.

Orrechiette with Fresh Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Basil.  A summer favorite.

Summer Vegetable Tian with zucchini, potatoes and tomatoes topped Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Green Bean Salad with Anchovy Dressing — Tender beans with a creamy anchovy and garlic dressing.

Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona 2001 Pianrossa DOCG Brunello di Montalcino made from 100% Sangiovese from 11.69 hectares named Pianrosso at 240 and 360 meters.  Soil of medium grain with good levels of marl dating to the Eocene period. Fermentation is in stainless steel and glass concrete vats with temperature control via cooling plates and jackets. Aging is in 7.5 -30 Slavonian oak barrels, for 3 years followed by over 12 months of bottle aging before release. This is an intense, complex and full bodied wine wine with hints of red berries, black berries and spice.

Butterflied Leg of Lamb — marinated with mustard, garlic and rosemary and grilled.

Bramaterra Riserva 1996 Tenuta Monolo. Bramaterra is in the Alta Piemonte well north of Barolo. Made from 60% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 20% Vesoplin10% and 10% Uva Rara. The vines were planted in 1970. There are 0.75 hectares of vineyards and the farming was organic. Exposure is northeast/southeast; there are 3,200 vines/hectare at 290 meters. The training system is guyot. The soil is deep and light, copper sands, with a high level of acidity with potassium, iron and manganese. Harvest is manual. Fermentation was in large wooden barrels (botti) with native yeast. The wine is aged in botti for two years. The wine is classic Bramaterra with hints of cherry, spice, cinnamon, a touch of dried fruit and a note of nutmeg. The last vintage was in 2004.

Finished plate

Blueberry Peach Crisp with Vanilla Bean Gelato was our dessert.

It was a wonderful day with friends and great wine and food in a unique setting that lasted into the night.

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UNDERSTANDING ITALY THROUGH WINE

“Understanding Italy Through Wine — Territory and Terroir: the Excellence of Italian Wine as Expressed by Coldiretti  Producers” was an event that I attended recently.  It was held at the Columbus Citizens Foundation, NYC

Coldiretti (Confederazione Nazionale Coltivatori Diretti) is Italy’s largest agricultural organization, representing hundreds of thousands of independent farmers, wine makers, and food producers. Founded in 1944, it champions authentic Italian-origin products, defends farmers’ rights, and connects agricultural producers directly with consumers mountainous terrain and sandy soils of volcanic origin. Italy has a continental climate with Mediterranean influences, characterized by cold winters and summers with strong temperature variations between night and day.

Here are the wines that we enjoyed that day.

DOC Etna Rosso Sul Vulcano 2022 – DONNAFUGATA Made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from Eastern Sicily, on the northern slopes of Etna, on the estate of the Municipality of Randazzo and in other particularly suitable areas. Elevation 600/700 meters. Mountainous terrain and sandy soils of volcanic origin. Vineyards grown using the Etna “alberello” head-trained bush practice and VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioning) training methods with spurred cordon pruning. Sloping terrains are traditionally cultivated on terraces cordoned off by dry lava stone walls. Grapes are collected in crates with the grapes carefully sorted at the vineyard. The Nerello Mascalese grape harvest began at the end of September and concluded on October 12. On arriving at the winery, the bunches are further sorted on the vibrating table and then selected using a next-generation destemmer which selects only perfectly ripe grapes, removing green and overripe grapes. Fermentation in steel with maceration on the skins at a controlled temperature. Aging partly in tanks and partly in second and third-passage barriques for around 18 months, and then for at least 18 months in the bottle before the release. The wine has hints of spice, sour cherry, strawberries a hint of fresh balsamic and touch of violet. The volcanic goddess on the label is a reminder of Etna, an active volcano. I have always enjoyed the wines of Donnafugata and have visited some of their different locations.

DOCG Vermentino di Gallura Cucaione 2025 – PIERO MANCINI made from 100% Vermentino from the northwest corner of Sardegna. The vines were planted between 2000/2005. Soil is granite and the vineyard is at 100/350 meters and facing southeast.  Harvest is from late August to early September. They do not use herbicides or pesticides but reserve the right to use fungicides if it means saving the crop. Controlled low temperature fermentation in stainless steel with conventional yeasts. Aging is for 3-6 months on the lees in stainless steel. Fined with bentonite, coarse filtration before bottling. The wine has hints of peach, herbs, tangerine a touch of green apple and a bitter almond finish.

DOCG Friuli Colli Orientali Friulano – LA VIARTE made fron 100% Tocai grown using the double upside-down and Guyot training system. There are 4,000 vines per hectare at 100/200 meters. The exposure is east and southeast. Soil is of Eocene origin locally know as “ponca” which consists of layers of marl and sandstone. Manual harvest is followed be a soft pressing of the grapes. Then vinification in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place.The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 6 months and in the bottle for a least 3 months before it is released for sale. This is a complex wine with hints of white peach, hay and thyme with good minerality and an almond finish.

DOP Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Coste di Moro Bio Cantina Sociale Orsogna made from 100% Montepulcino D’Abruzzo. This is a certified organic, biodynamic, and vegan red wine produced by Cantina Orsogna in Italy. Cantina Orsogna, created in 1964, is a cooperative company of 450 partners. It is the largest producer of organic and biodynamic wines in the south centre of Italy. It has more than 1,100 hectares of vines, 80% is certified organic, and 30% is certified biodynamic by Demeter. Cantina Orsogna has been certified biodynamic since 2005 and has been organic produced for more than 30 years. This full-bodied wine features  hints of black cherry, blackberry and plum with a touch of cocoa and a note of licorice.

DOCG Vernaccia DI San Gimignano Riserva 2013 “Sanice” Cesani madę from 100% Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, certified organic since 2010. Soil is of medium textured silty-sandy with Pliocene marine deposits.The grapes, all hand-picked and selected for maturation, variety and plot, are carried every hour to the cellars where the wine is made. Fermentation in stainless steel at controlled temperatures with indigenous yeast. No maceration or malolactic fermentation. Soft filtration and bottling February-March after harvest. The wine is aged with the lees for 3 to 4 months in stainless steel.The refining of the bottled wine takes place in rooms located within an old agricultural outbuilding recently restored, buried on three sides and with constant temperature and humidity. This is a crisp white wine has hints of green apple, citrus fruit, a touch of lemon and a bitter almond finish.

DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino “Tenuta Nova” 2019 Casanove di Nevi  made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is located south of Montalcino at 275/320 meters and the soil is galestro with tuff and clay. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the plants are 25/30 years old. The raining system is spur-pruned cordon and the winery is organic but not certified. The wine is unfiltered and it is aged in 500-liter oak tonneau for 36 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a full-bodied wine with hints of blackberry, black cherry, plum and a touch of violets and a note of spice. It is a classic  Brunello  which I have have been drinking for many years.

  

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EthicaWines Italian Portfolio Tasting

The EthicaWines 10th Anniversary Portfolio Tasting was held at one of  my favorite Italian restaurants, Il Gattopardo in NYC.

Ethica Wines has a wonderful portfolio of Italians.  Their slogan is Italian wines, global reach.  23 producers were present at the tasting and there were over 40 wines to taste.

The four wines listed below are my favorites and I have a long and special relationship with each.

Villa Bucci  2021 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Villa Bucci Riserva . Made from 100% Verdicchio from Ostra Vetere, province of Ancona, Marche. There are 64 acres of Verdicchio planted. Made from the estate’s oldest, highest-altitude plots.  The soil is calcareous and mildly clayey that encourages deep root systems. Large old Slavonian oak barrels of 50 HL are used to age the wine for two years. The winery has been fully certified organic since 1999/2002.

The winery was founded by Ampelio Bucci and the wine was produced with the help of the  legendary  enologist Giorgio Grai for over 30 years. It has been my honor to meet both of them on more then one occasion. Ampelio passed away recently and the winery was in 2024 acquired by the Veronesi family’s Oniverse group. This is a very  complex, well balanced  mouth filling white  wine with hints of green apple, almond, herbs a  hint of flint and  a touch of anise with a long pleasing finish and aftertaste, This is a white wine that can  really age.   There is a restaurant in Amalfi that has these wines going back 10 years and more. It is always a pleasure to drink them.

Alberico Lazio IGT 2020 Tenuta Principe Alberico made from 100% Semillon. Soil is of volcanic origin. Cooled crushed grapes are softly pressed and the must obtained is decanted. Fermentation in steel tanks. Indigenous yeasts carry on alcoholic fermentation. Aging is in 16 hI oak barrels and finally a further passage in barriques 18 months in the bottle before release.  This is an exceptional balanced wine with complex aromas of subtle tropical fruit, hints of citrus fruit and a slight touch of vanilla with a very pleasing finish and a long aftertaste.

Allessia Antinori, daughter of  Piero Antinori and granddaughter of Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi Principe of Venosa who founded the winery in 1945,  runs the winery. The winery is only 30 km from Rome across from the Ciampino Airport. I have visited the winery on a number of occasions and have met with Alessia in Rome and in NYC .

Taurasi Riserva 2017 Mastroberardino The soil is poor in organic substances but has a high content of clay, limestone, minerals and microelements. The vineyards are on two hills, Mirabella vineyard at 500 meters and the Montemarano vineyard at 550 meters. Because of its position on the hill and its altitude, the temperature at the Montemarano vineyard is much colder and the grapes are picked a little later. Harvest is from the end of October into the beginning of November. The vinification is the classic one for red wine, long maceration with skin contact at controlled temperatures. The wine spends one year in Slovenian oak barrels and two years in bottle, the wine can be laid down for 10 to 15 years. The riserva stays in medium sized 40 to 50 HL oak casks for 2 years and 2 years in bottle. It can live in the bottle for 25-40 years. This is a full, complex wine with hints of black cherry, plum, spice, smoke and a touch of leather.

The family estate was founded in 1878.  It was not until after WWll when Antonio Mastroberardino and his brother Walter took control of the winery that it became the leading winey not only in Campania but in all of Southern Italy. In the 1990,  Walter left to establish his on winery and Antonio kept the Mastroberardino name The winery is now in the very capable hands of his son Piero. Antonio passed away in 2014. I only met Antonio once many years ago when I tasted first the legendary 1968 Taurasi Reserve.

Borolo Cannubi 2020 Borgogno madę from 100% Nebbiolo from the highly regarded Cannubi vineyard with a southern exposure. The soil is calcareous and clay marl, lightly sandy. The vine training system is archetto variation of the Guyot system and there are 4,000 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place in October. Spontaneous fermentation carried out by indigenous yeasts for about 12 days in concrete tanks, controlled temperature (22 – 25 C initially, 29-30 at the end ), followed by submerged cup maceration for 40 – 50 days, stable temperature 29 C. After the racking off, the malolactic fermentation starts, and it lasts about 15 days at 22 C. Ageing: 4 years in Slavonian oak casks (4500L) with a further refining in bottle for 6 months. 

This is a traditional old style Barolo with extended maceration and aging in large casks without selected yeasts. It has hints of  raspberry, wild strawberry, cherry, licorice, tea,  spice and a hint of violet. These wines can age. Over the last few years I have had wines from the 1947, 1958, and 1964 vintage to name just a few. It has always been my go-to Barolo for older wines.

The estate was managed by the Borgogno family for centuries (1761) until it was acquired in 2008 by the Farinetti family, of Eataly fame, who transitioned the estate to organic farming.

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On another note, I was very sorry to read about the passing of Emidio Pepe this week.  He was the legendary producer of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo , one of my favorite Italian red wines. He was 94 years old.

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North to South: Italian Reds from the Dolomites, Tuscany and Puglia

Italian red wines are wonderfully diverse, with flavor, texture and personality shaped by their regions. From the crisp, mountain-influenced Trentino in the north, to the refined elegance of Tuscany in central Italy and the bold, sun-soaked richness of Puglia in the south, these three wines offer a snapshot of how place shapes style.

Mezzacorona Dinotte Red Blend Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 2022  made from Teroldego, Marzemino and Merlot grapes.  For over 120 years, Mezzacorona has expressed the character of Trentino through its wines and Dinotte, the winery’s red blend rooted in native Dolomite varietals, reflects that heritage. Grown in the Dolomite Mountains, where cliff erosion and glacial deposits have sculpted granite soils across the valley vineyards, this wine captures the distinctive alpine terroir of Northern Italy. The Teroldego and Marzemino grapesmare vinified in the classic red winemaking style at 73-84°C for several days with the addition of selected yeasts. Then they are matured in French oak barrels (lightly roasted, 3 years old). Teroldego provides structure, along with deep red color and dark berry flavors, while Marzemino adds juicy, velvety lift and Merlot softens the blend, contributing subtle vanilla and cocoa notes. $16

Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2022  Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. Owned by the Frescobaldi family, one of Italy’s most respected wine dynasties, Tenuta Perano is a classic estate nestled in Chianti Classico in Gaiole in Chianti where steep slopes and stony soils characterize the landscape.This Sangiovese-Merlot Chianti Classico Riserva is grown in the heart of Tuscany, where the slope and exposure of a natural amphitheater allow grapes to develop elegance and aromatic complexity. The vineyards are at 500 meters. Hand-harvested and aged 24 months in oak, the result is a beautiful red wine with a floral bouquet of violet and dog rose, red cherry fruit, hints of licorice and clove, and tertiary notes of tobacco and roasted aromas. I have always enjoyed the wines from Frescobaldi. $25

Varvaglione 12 e Mezzo Primitivo Puglia IGP Organic Wine 2023.  In the sun-drenched vineyards of southern Puglia, you’ll find Varvaglione, a family-owned winery now in its fourth generation. The winery is located in Leporano on the Gulf of Taranto in the Salento region of Puglia. They have 150 hectares of vineyards and contracts with grape growers who have been with them for over 30 years.  Their Primitivo thrives in warm, ventilated soils, mostly clay that produce grapes with intense color, ripe fruit and balanced acidity, shaping a naturally expressive, fruit-forward profile. Currant and blackberry notes are complemented by aromatic spices with a subtle coconut finish. “12 e mezzo,” meaning “12 and a half,” refers to the wine’s alcohol by volume — 12.5% — but it also reflects a deliberate stylistic choice. In a region known for powerful, high-alcohol Primitivo, Varvaglione crafted this wine to be fresher, more approachable, and exceptionally versatile at the table. The result is a modern expression of Puglia: vibrant, balanced, and designed for today’s drinker.  I  first discovered this wine on a press trip to Puglia a number of years ago $20.

A wine tour of Italy doesn’t have to be expensive.  Enjoy these three well priced wines!

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Tasting Paolo Manzone Wines with an Old Friend

Bob Shack of HB Wine Merchants is an old friend that I had not seen for a number of years. Recently, he wrote and invited me to meet him at Nonna Dora’s Tribeca for a tasting and lunch.  The wines were from Paolo Manzone Winery in Piedmont, Italy, which I have visited,

Jairo Gustavo Neira is a  winemaker and enologist who works alongside owner Paolo Manzone at the winery.  I knew Jairo from his days in NYC and it was nice to see him again. He spoke about the winery and the wines.

Paolo Manzone and his wife Luisella own and operate the estate located in Serralunga d’Alba and they farm 14 hectares of vineyards. The winery and house are located entirely in the Cru Meriame di Serralunga. The land and vineyards have been handed down from father to son for generations and the production ranges from Dolcetto d’Alba, to Barbera d’Alba, to Nebbiolo d’Alba to Barolo Gavi and  Arneis. The estate consists of hand tended vines with full regard to the traditional methods realizing the quality is made by the vines.

The Paolo Manzone Wines

Roero Arneis 2023 “Reysu” made from 100% Arneis from Corneliano D’Alba/Canale-Roero. The vineyards are at 400 meters and the exposure is southeast. Loose sandy soil with veins of tuff. There  is a soft pressing of selected whole bunches in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. Battonage is used during fermentation on the lees to enhance complexity. This wine is straw yellow with beautiful green reflections. The wine has hints of green apple, nectarine and peach with a long and pleasant finish.  Bob Shack said that this is one of the best Arneis he had ever tasted and I agreed with him.

Acciughe Marinate-marinated fresh anchovies

Gavi made from 100% Cortese grapes grown in vineyards within the township of Gavi in Piedmont. Hand harvested grapes are where the first selections are made.  They are then carried to the winery in 20 Kg bins to insure they arrive fully intact. The grapes are sorted and carefully crushed. This is followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Fermentation is followed by maturation on the fine lees for several months before the wine is finally bottled. Crisp and refreshing with hints of citrus  citrus, green apple, a hint of almond and bright acidity with a clean, mineral finish..

Panzerotti — Baby Calzones filled with San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella

Langhe Rosso 2022 “Ardi” made from Barbera and Dolcetto from Estate Vineyards.  The vineyard is 400 meters in elevation facing South East.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. First produced in 2008 from the area of Sinio, part of the wine is stainless steel aged while the other part spends time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, plums and a touch of spice with a smooth, long and pleasant finish.

Homemade Tagliatelle with Mushrooms & Salsa Tartufata

Nebbiolo D’Alba 2022 Mirine’ made from 100% Nebbiolo. The soil is clay and limestone at 400 meters with a southeast exposure.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation.  The wine has hints of cherry and dark berry notes combined with dried cranberry, spice and light cocoa aromas. Full in body with soft tannins and good acidity to keep it fresh leading to a flavorful finish.

Malloreddus–Saffron seasoned pasta with sausage and tomato ragu

Barolo Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba 2019 Made from 100% Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo grapes are sourced exclusively from vineyards within the commune of Serralunga d’Alba, known for producing some of Barolo’s most powerful wines.The exposure is southwest and the soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with extended maceration to extract structure and aromatics. The wine is aged for 38 months of which 24 months is in large Slavonian oak barrels.  The rest of the time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of cherries, red plum, licorice, tar, a note of rose pedal and a touch of spice. The finish is long, persistent, and classically Serralunga in its strength and intensity.

Gnocchi – Basil and Pinoli pesto

Barolo Meriame 2019 made from 100% Nebbiolo from a severe selection of the best fruit from the cru vineyard at 350 meters. The soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation is in stainless steel and then 90% of the wine is aged in 15 Hl Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months and 10% in French oak tonneaux. This is a bold complex wine with hints of blackberries, blueberries, licorice, a touch of tea and a hint of spice.

I enjoyed seeing Bob again and having a chance to discuss the wines with Jairo.  These are all food-friendly wines and they matched up nicely with the appetizers and fresh pastas at Nonna Dora’s.

 

 

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