June 29, 2026 · 1:40 am

Tasting Paolo Manzone Wines with an Old Friend

Bob Shack of HB Wine Merchants is an old friend that I had not seen for a number of years. Recently, he wrote and invited me to meet him at Nonna Dora’s Tribeca for a tasting and lunch.  The wines were from Paolo Manzone Winery in Piedmont, Italy, which I have visited,

Jairo Gustavo Neira is a  winemaker and enologist who works alongside owner Paolo Manzone at the winery.  I knew Jairo from his days in NYC and it was nice to see him again. He spoke about the winery and the wines.

Paolo Manzone and his wife Luisella own and operate the estate located in Serralunga d’Alba and they farm 14 hectares of vineyards. The winery and house are located entirely in the Cru Meriame di Serralunga. The land and vineyards have been handed down from father to son for generations and the production ranges from Dolcetto d’Alba, to Barbera d’Alba, to Nebbiolo d’Alba to Barolo Gavi and  Arneis. The estate consists of hand tended vines with full regard to the traditional methods realizing the quality is made by the vines.

The Paolo Manzone Wines

Roero Arneis 2023 “Reysu” made from 100% Arneis from Corneliano D’Alba/Canale-Roero. The vineyards are at 400 meters and the exposure is southeast. Loose sandy soil with veins of tuff. There  is a soft pressing of selected whole bunches in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. Battonage is used during fermentation on the lees to enhance complexity. This wine is straw yellow with beautiful green reflections. The wine has hints of green apple, nectarine and peach with a long and pleasant finish.  Bob Shack said that this is one of the best Arneis he had ever tasted and I agreed with him.

Acciughe Marinate-marinated fresh anchovies

Gavi made from 100% Cortese grapes grown in vineyards within the township of Gavi in Piedmont. Hand harvested grapes are where the first selections are made.  They are then carried to the winery in 20 Kg bins to insure they arrive fully intact. The grapes are sorted and carefully crushed. This is followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Fermentation is followed by maturation on the fine lees for several months before the wine is finally bottled. Crisp and refreshing with hints of citrus  citrus, green apple, a hint of almond and bright acidity with a clean, mineral finish..

Panzerotti — Baby Calzones filled with San Marzano tomatoes and mozzarella

Langhe Rosso 2022 “Ardi” made from Barbera and Dolcetto from Estate Vineyards.  The vineyard is 400 meters in elevation facing South East.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation. First produced in 2008 from the area of Sinio, part of the wine is stainless steel aged while the other part spends time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, plums and a touch of spice with a smooth, long and pleasant finish.

Homemade Tagliatelle with Mushrooms & Salsa Tartufata

Nebbiolo D’Alba 2022 Mirine’ made from 100% Nebbiolo. The soil is clay and limestone at 400 meters with a southeast exposure.  The wine is made from the gentle pressing of destemmed grapes at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks to preserve the fruit and eliminate oxidation.  The wine has hints of cherry and dark berry notes combined with dried cranberry, spice and light cocoa aromas. Full in body with soft tannins and good acidity to keep it fresh leading to a flavorful finish.

Malloreddus–Saffron seasoned pasta with sausage and tomato ragu

Barolo Del Comune Di Serralunga D’Alba 2019 Made from 100% Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo grapes are sourced exclusively from vineyards within the commune of Serralunga d’Alba, known for producing some of Barolo’s most powerful wines.The exposure is southwest and the soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with extended maceration to extract structure and aromatics. The wine is aged for 38 months of which 24 months is in large Slavonian oak barrels.  The rest of the time in French oak tonneaux. The wine has hints of cherries, red plum, licorice, tar, a note of rose pedal and a touch of spice. The finish is long, persistent, and classically Serralunga in its strength and intensity.

Gnocchi – Basil and Pinoli pesto

Barolo Meriame 2019 made from 100% Nebbiolo from a severe selection of the best fruit from the cru vineyard at 350 meters. The soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation is in stainless steel and then 90% of the wine is aged in 15 Hl Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months and 10% in French oak tonneaux. This is a bold complex wine with hints of blackberries, blueberries, licorice, a touch of tea and a hint of spice.

I enjoyed seeing Bob again and having a chance to discuss the wines with Jairo.  These are all food-friendly wines and they matched up nicely with the appetizers and fresh pastas at Nonna Dora’s.

 

 

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June 18, 2026 · 2:04 am

A Special Lunch with Good Friends

Last week we gathered a group of old friends for a long overdue luncheon at our home.  It wasn’t a particularly special occasion — we were just glad to get together.

We started with Champagne

Champagne Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Reserve Special Edition made from 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier from 50% reserve wines.  Of the 60 Champagne crus chosen to produce this cuvée, 3 are pillars of the Réserve style — Oger: (Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs) gives it its fleshy and generous notes, Ambonnay: (Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims) is synonymous with power, structure and fruity notes. Verneuil: (Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne) ensures its balance and smooth texture.  Vinification is done varietal by varietal in stainless steel vats with 5 to 10% of the wine vinified in old Burgundy barrels.  This Champagne has hints of freshly baked brioche, mango, apricot, plum, dried fruits with a touch of pistachio and almond.

Smoked Salmon Dip with Salmon Caviar and Toasts went well with the Champagne.

Greci di Tufo Riserva  2008 “ Vittorio”  Di Meo 100% Greco di Tufo from Montefusco (AV) at 750 meters.  This wine bears the name of Vittorio Di Meo, who founded the winery.  The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is clay and limestone with steep slopes on a gradient greater than 20% with a north/east exposure. There are 3,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. Harvest is the second  week of October from slightly overripe grapes. There is maceration on the skins followed by fermentation  at a controlled temperature for 12 years, then 24 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of beeswax, honey, cedar, apple, a touch of flint with good acidity and minerality. The producer refers to the wine as warm and enchanting and I have to agree.

In the early 1980’s Erminia, Generoso, and Roberto Di Meo acquired this historical estate from their parents. The estate is located in the province of Avellino in the area of Salza Irpinia and covers 25 hectares most of which is vineyards. In 1986 they produced their first wines and the Di Meo winery was born.

I visited the estated back in 2016 as part of a Campania Stories Wine Press trip.  Over the last few years I have had the great pleasure of tasting and drinking this great wine.

Bleu Cheese Flan with Arugula Salad — Mild and creamy bleu with creme fraiche and cream cheese with a lightly dressed salad.  Served on a one of our many souvenir plates from the Unione di Buon Ricordo restaurant, Rome’s Trattoria Checchino dal 1887

Chateau Lynch Bages “Pauillac” 1986  made from 73% Cabernet Sauvignon,  15% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot . This is a traditional  classic Bordeaux with hints of black cherries, blackberries, blueberries, black currants (cassis), cedar, tobacco, and cigar box. The winery has changed hands since 1986 so I am not sure how the wine was produced except that it was wonderful.

Rack of Lamb with Herbed Crumbs and Sugar Snaps

Provencal Style Tian — Layered potatoes, zucchini, and tomatoes baked with Parmigiano Reggiano

Double Lamb Chops with Buttered  Sugar  Snaps  and  Vegetable  Tian

Lemon Ice with Pistachio BiscottiEspresso coffee with Pistacchio Biscotti

We finished with Grappa Capo Di Stato

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June 9, 2026 · 2:55 am

Lunch at Mozzarella & Vino NYC

Before our trip to Rome this winter, Michele and I had dinner with a friend at Mozzarella & Vino.  It’s a more casual version of Il Gattopardo located just down the street.  We enjoyed it so much and looked forward to an opportunity to go for lunch.

As always we were greeted by Paula Bolla Sorrentino, the Managing Partner.  Later Vito Gnazzo, the Chef Partner came over to discuss the menu.

We started with an assortment of antipasti, including Arancini Di Melanzane

Crisp fried rice balls filled with roasted eggplant and provola cheese on tomato sauce.

We also shared an order of Polpette di Carne

Veal and pork meatballs in herbed tomato sauce

And we couldn’t resist the M&V Tasting

which included mozzarella di bufala Campana, smoked provola and burrata Pugliese, with sweet cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil and toasted bread.

Next we shared the Ragú Napoletano

Mezze maniche pasta with slow coked Neapolitan ragú of pork ribs, beef short ribs, pecorino cheese, tomatoes and fresh basil

Our friend ordered the Salmone

Pacific salmon, pan-seared with white wine and dill, served with sautéed spinach

I couldn’t resist the Neapolitan-style Meatloaf

Filled with prosciutto, salami, boiled egg, pecorino and parsley, served with mashed potatoes. This was on the menu at Il Gattopardo and it was my favorite. They took it off a few years ago and now I am happy to say it is back at Mozzarella & Vino.

There is an extensive wine list with many of my favorite Italian wines to choose from.  Mozzarella & Vino also hosts a series of wine dinners featuring important producers from all over Italy who discuss their wines and guide guests in tastings.

With our lunch, we drank

Barbaresco  2009 Castello DI Neive made from 100% Nebbiolo which was drinking very well.

We ended our meal on a sweet note with

Torta Mascarpone Tiramisu

Located on the ground floor of a 5-story townhouse on West 54th Street, Mozzarella & Vino is directly across the street from the Museum of Modern Art. In the daytime  with its fresh airy look and  so much light coming in you would think you were sitting outside!

The restaurant is open all day and it’s the perfect spot any time of the day for an aperitivo, lunch, dinner and even breakfast.  We’ll be back again soon!

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June 1, 2026 · 2:09 am

Pairing Chablis Wines with Food

 

 

The invitation read, “The Bourgogne Wine Board is delighted to invite you to a  press dinner celebrating the diversity of Chablis wine and its pairing  with food.”  The event took place at the Time Square EDITION Hotel in NYC on its elegant terrace and outdoor gardens on the 9th floor.

The speaker was Amy Racine, Beverage Director & Partner/IF Restaurants and she spoke about Chablis and the food parings.

All Chablis is made exclusively from 100% Chardonnay and comes only from France. The region of Chablis is located in the northernmost part of Burgundy. Chablis is a town and commune in the Yonne Department in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté in north-central France. It lies in the valley of the River Serein. The vineyards are grown across a relatively small area of about 20 kilometers from north to south and around 15 from east to west. The major city closest to Chablis is Auxerre, located about 12 miles (20 km) west.

At the event we tasted wines across four appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Crus and Chablis Grand Crus, with food prepared by Michelin Star Chef John Fraser.

 Chablis producers want to emphasize the terroir of the calcareous soil and the cooler climate that helps to maintain the high acidity of Chablis. Together with the use of stainless steel, that is what helps to make Chablis one of the best expressions of the Chardonnay grape. It also makes them very excellent food wines.

Chablis and Food Pairings

Petit Chablis 2024 Daniel Dampt & Fils. The winery in Chablis northern Bourgogne is more than 150 years old. With 10 hectares (25 acres) of Chablis Premier Cru vineyards, 12 hectares (30 acres) of Petit Chablis vineyards and some from the Chablis Grand Cru appellation, the family domaine manages its vineyards sustainably to protect the environment and safeguard the natural characteristics of the Chardonnay grape. The soil in the 0.5 hectare vineyard is clay-limestone. It is light and well drained with plateau exposure.  Traditional cultivation with careful vineyard management with double Guyot pruning.  There are 5,000 plants per hectare. The average age of the vines is 10 years. Vinification is in  thermoregulated stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and typicality of  the Chardonnay. There is a pneumatic pressing followed by a temperature controlled fermentation. Everything from harvest to bottling is done on the estate. The wine is aged in stainless steel  for several months before it is bottled.

This was the lightest of the wines  with hints of citrus, vibrant, meant to be drunk young. This was served with Lobster Beignet and Kaluga Caviar in small bites.

Petit-Chablis 2023 Isabella et Denis Pommier. Denis Pommier took over the 2 hectares of family land and planted vineyards over the years. Today their are 23 hectare of vines, Petit Chablis, Chablis Premier Chablis Cru and Bourgogne appellation areas. The soil is limestone and clay on plateau sites. These higher altitude plots are mainly composed of Portlandian and limestone based soils. Average age of the vines is 15/25 years. Organic farming practices and certified organic since 2014. The harvest is mechanical. Alcoholic formation takes place with native yeasts and malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is on the lees for 6 months and there is a light fining. Aging is in stainless steel tanks for about 12 months and then the wine is bottled.

The wine has hints of citrus fruit  green apple, white flowers along with good good acidity which made it an excellent match the mousse-like goat cheese “tart.”

Chèvre Tart – Pistachio, rhubarb, pumpernickel, and mâche

Chablis 2024 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard.  This family estate was founded in 1973 by Jean Marc Brocard, now joined by his son Julien. There are almost 200 hectares of which 66 are certified organic. The soil is Kimmenidgia clay-limestone rich in mineral fossils typical of Chablis. Parcels located around the village of Préhy with a southern exposure.  Organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard to preserve the natural ecosystem. There are 5,700 plants per hectare and the average age of the vines is 30 years. There is a pneumatic pressing of the grapes and a cold settling. Alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts in thermoregulated stainless steel tanks. This is followed by a complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 7 to 9 months.

The classic expression of Chablis, this wine was crisp, aromatic with  citrus fruit, lemon and a touch of toasted almond. It was a perfect match with the refreshing razor clam ceviche.

Razor Clam Ceviche – Celery, melon, horseradish

Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaudevey 2023 Domaine Laroche. Domaine La Laroche was founded in 1850 and is one of the largest holders of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. They still produce and age their wines in the historic headquarters, known as The Obèdiencerie. Founded in 1850, Domaine Laroche has led movements to raise the quality of the appellation with the creation of a charter of excellence for the Grand Cru producers.  Les Vaudeve  is located in a cool and narrow valley. Sun appears in the early morning and lasts until mid-afternoon. The ripening of grapes is slow, which helps aromas to concentrate and preserve acidity. One single plot of almost 10 hectares has no more than 5 producers crafting wines from this Cru. Sorting takes place at the entrance of the cellar. Then a gentle pressing of the grapes at low pressure to extract press core only. Fermentation is in French oak barrels (15%) and in stainless steel (85%). Aged 12 months in the same containers on fine lees. After the blending, a new maturing on fine lees will take place until bottling.

This is a wine with hints of citrus fruit, green apple and a touch of vanilla.

Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre 2023 Domaine William Fevre  Is one of the largest owners of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. Founded in1959 it is now part of the Lafite group. An appellation of 43 hectares on the right bank of the Serein, extending from the Grands Crus Les Clos and Blanchot. With a geological structure similar to the Grands Crus and a very good exposure, this terroir ranks among the greatest of the Premiers Crus. Wine making uses the application of the principle of gravity to avoid any pumping, which could alter the quality of the wine. Short-duration pneumatic pressing (1h30 to 2h00) for a delicate separation between the solid and liquid parts of the grapes. Very light static settling to retain enough fine lees for the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations to occur naturally. The vinifications are carried out in stainless steel vats. Aging lasts 19 months, including 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 35% of the blend with a minority in new oak.The aging process finishes in small stainless steel tanks.

This is a more complex wine, with hints of lemon, green apple,  minerality, a touch of chalk and a hint of flint. The wine will age. It was very daring for the chef to pair it with an Italian pasta but it worked.

Sweet Pea Agnolotti – Fennel soubise, pancetta, lion’s mane mushrooms, nasturtium

Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2019 J. Moreau & Fils founded in 1814. this is one of the historic in Chablis. From among the seven prestigious climates located in the commune of Chablis, the 11.92 hectares of Valmur stretch across a “valley” at the heart of the appellation, running alongside that of Vaudésir as well as Grenouilles and Les Clos. Its location, offering subtle variations of exposition and altitude, enable more varied wines to be produced here than in the other vineyards. Moreau’s selection concerns 2 ha of the vineyard. Chalky scree slopes overlying Kimmeridgian marl. The soil is heavy and is strewn with small fossilized oysters known as “Exogyra Virgula.”  The grapes come from a select plot of old vines.  Both grapes and must were brought in  together. There is a long pneumatic pressing followed by a static settling. Alcoholic fermentation began in stainless steel tanks using selected yeasts. After 3 days, 10% of the juice was transferred to fine-grained barrels of selected origin. Alcoholic fermentation was complete in 10 days.  Selected yeasts were added to induce malolactic fermentation in mid-October.  Malolactic fermentation was complete by mid-November. Aging for about 18 months.  The barrel-fermented wine was stirred weekly while the tank-fermented wine was stirred twice a month.

This was the most concentrated and complex of the wines with hints of grapefruit, lemon a touch a honey and a note of vanilla. The  wine  will age for a number of years.  It  paired well with the next course of sole and its accompaniments.

NY Sole – White asparagus, young leek, zucchini blossom, foie gras mousse, brown butter crumble.

I enjoyed this rare opportunity to sample a range of Chablis and explore the possibilities of pairing Chablis with a variety of foods.

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May 21, 2026 · 2:43 am

The Wines of San Salvatore 1988

Falanghina, a white wine from Campania, is my favorite wine to enjoy with seafood. One I particularly enjoy is the Falanghina from Azienda Agricola San Salvatore 1988.  Recently I was invited  by Serena Valeriani from Miriade & Partners to a lunch featuring the wines of San Salvatore and, since I was unfamiliar with the rest of their wines, I was only too happy to attend in order to learn more. Thr lunch was held at Audace Ristorante in NYC.

The speakers were Giuseppe Pagano, Founder and CEO, and Elena Spadoni Waxman, the Brand Ambassador, who also acted as a translator for Mr. Pagano.

I was very impressed by Mr. Pagano who was not only very enthusiastic about his winery but also about the history and geography of the area were his winery is located. He explained the geography and terroir and spoke about the history going back to the ancient Greeks.

Azienda Agricola San Salvatore is located in the middle of the National Park of Cilento, near Paestum in the Campania region of southern Italy. In 2006 Giuseppe Pagano, a successful entrepreneur and hotelier in the Paestum region of Campania, created San Salvatore 1988.  The winery is named for Giuseppe’s firstborn son, Salvatore, who was born in 1988.

San Salvatore has quickly become one of Italy’s most environmentally-conscious azienda agricolas. There are 149 hectares devoted to organically farmed agriculture, including vineyards, olive groves, and crops that support their 550-head of water buffalo.

They make mozzarella, yogurt and gelato from the buffalo milk. Mr Pagano  said there was also a restaurant on the property.

The Wines

Campania Falangina IGP 2023 made from 100% single variety Falanghina from the Cannito vineyard planted in 2008 at 150/210 meters. The exposure is south, southwest and the soil is of medium texture and deep. The training system is espalier with Guyot pruning.  The average age of the vines is 19 years. After manual harvesting the finest bunches, the grapes are softly pressed and subjected to cold maceration for 6 hours at 4C. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a low temperature. Before bottling, the wine ages on the lees for 6 months in stainless steel tanks. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, green apple, a touch of pineapple and a note of apricot.

Paestum Fiano IGP 2021 Pian Di Stio made from 100% Fiano. These grapes come from a special cru in the Stio vineyard chosen annually. The vines are at 550/650 meters and the exposure is south. Soil composition is clay and limestone. There is 6 hours of cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation in stainless steel. Aging is in French oak barriques and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of peach, green apple, vanilla, almonds a hint of fig and a touch of honey.

Campania Rosato IGP 2024 Vetere made from 100% Aglianico from an ancient terroir, in a vineyard in the shadow of the temples of Paestum, in the heart of the Cilento National Park. This wine takes its name from Magliano Vetere, a small town in the Cilento National Park near San Salvatore’s Cannito vineyards where the organic grapes used to make this wine are grown. The vines are at 150/210 meters and were planted in 2008. The exposure is south/southwest and the soil is clay and limestone. There is a cold maceration for 6 hours, followed by a soft pressing of the grapes with brief contact with the skins to extract the smallest amount of color and elegant refined aromas. Elena described it as ,“A rosé with a Provençal color yet one that speaks of the entire Cilento Region.”  She also said Mr. Pagano went to Provence to see how the rosè was made there.  The wine has hints of red fruit, strawberries, rasperries with a touch of violets and a note of citrus fruit.

Paestum Aglianico  IGP 2016 Omaggio a Gillodorfles made from 100% Aglianico. Mr Pagano said this wine is named for Gillo Dorfles, an Italian genius of the 20th Century. He was in love with Paestum and with the majesty of its history. He spent his summers here enjoying art, the sea, the temples as well as the vineyards of San Salvatore.  He was a professor of aesthetics at the University of Milan and Trieste and an artist. Above all, he was in love with Paestum and its majesty. Mr. Pagano decided to dedicate sixteen vintages of this wine to him.

The vineyard was planted in 2005 at 150/210 meters with a south/southwest exposure. The soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for 30 days. Aging: 24 months in new French oak barrels, 1/3 Allier, 1/3 Nevers and 1/3 Troncais. The wine has hints of cherry, blueberry, blackcurrant, blackberry, violet a hint of juniper and a touch of chocolate.

Pastrami Aglianico IGP 2017  Omaggio a Gillodorfles this is a very intense wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, blueberry, raspberry with a touch of spice and balsamic notes.

Mr. Pagano said that the 2016 was a exceptional year for Aglianico while 2017 was very warm and produced wines which had jammy fruit and will be ready to drink sooner. They were very different wines.

Paestum Aglianico  IGP Jungano 2021 made from 100% Aglianico. This wine is named for the town of Giungano where the San Salvatore winery is located. The vineyards are at 150/210 meters and were planted in 2008. The exposure is south/southeast and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are vinified at a controlled temperature. The wine is matured in stainless steel and aged for a year in stainless steel and wood. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberries, violets and spice.

It was my pleasure to meet Mr. Pagano and taste a range of his wines.  I am happy to report that I enjoyed them as much as his Falanghina.

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May 14, 2026 · 2:56 am

Chianti Classico Today: Master Class

Last week as part of  the Chianti Classico Grand Tasting in NYC there were two Master Classes.

I attended one of then with the interesting title, “Tradition Thrives on Innovation: Techniques & Traditions Defining Chianti Classico.” The speakers were Jeff Porter on Zoom from Torino and Randall Restiano who was present at the event.  

Giovanni Manetti, President of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium and owner of Fontodi  spoke about Chianti Classico.  He introduced the Master Class and the topics to be discussed and the 6 wines which we tasted.

Some of the topics discussed included the use of Terracotta Amphora, Whole Cluster Fermentation, The Art Of Blending, and Clonal Selection.  I will discus these topics in relation to the wines.

THE WINES

Chianti Classico “Dino” 2022 Fontodi made from 100% Sangiovese from various vineyards within  the property.  Produced in the “Conca d’Oro” of Panzano.  There are 6,000 vines per hectare. Fermentation and maceration are in terracotta amphora with indigenous yeast for at least 3 weeks. The wine is aged for 18 months in terracotta amphora. It has hints of red cherry, cranberry, plum, with a touch of violet and a hint of leather.

Terracotta amphora

Micro-oxygenation: The porous clay allows subtle oxygen exchange, helping with fermentation and color stability in red wines.

Temperature Regulation: Terracotta offers natural thermal insulation, keeping liquid cool through evaporation, which slows and steadies fermentation.

Neutral Aging: Unlike oak, clay does not add wood tannins or flavors, allowing the pure, earthy characteristics of the wine to shine.

Aging Potential: Wine in clay tends to have a brighter mouthfeel and is ready to drink sooner.

Chianti Classico Riserva “Le Vigne” 2022 Radda in Chianti and  Gaiole in Chianti Istine made from 100% Sangiovese and the training system is guyot. The vineyards are at 400/500 meters and each vineyard is vinified separately. 90% of the wine is fermented in concrete and 10% is whole clusters done in steel. Fermentation is for 15 days then pressed off and aged in tonneaux. The submerged cap maceration lasts for 45 days. The wines are then separated into 20 hl oak barrels for 12 months.  The wines are then blended together and aged for 12 more months in 30 hl Slavonian oak. Then it remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, and cranberry with a touch of violet and a note of spice.  The winery is certified organic.

Whole Cluster Fermentation

  • Entire grape bunch goes into the tank intact: berries + stems + rachis
  • Structurally influential technique
  • Clusters on the bottom are crushed by the weight of the others and juice runs out and fermentation can start
  • Intact berries begin intracellular fermentation
  • Stems interact with juice and release tannins, potassium, & aromatic compounds
  • As more berries burst stems are submerged and become part of the extraction process

What does it do to the wine?

  • Can add lift aromatically
  • Can increase tannic structure–more linear and less dense than wood or seed tannin
  • Can give grip or tension without weight
  • Potassium will slightly raise the pH, soften perceived acidity

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano” 2016 Conti Capponi made from 100% single vineyard Sangiovese.  Location is in Graven Chianti-Montefoiralle. The vineyards are at 280 mt. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in open-top tonneaux with 50% whole clusters and maceration lasts for 18 days. Then the wine is racked off  into 10 hl Slavonian casks and aged for 20 months with 2 to 4 rackings. The wine is then bottle aged for 12 months.  It has hints of  strawberry, violets, red cherry and a touch of cardamom.

Chianti Classico Isole e Olena made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino. Location San Donato in Poggio. The vineyards are at 380/400 mt. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in steel tanks with 2 weeks of maceration with pump overs. The wine is racked off into 17/23hl casks and aged for 12 months. It remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of red cherry, plum, strawberries, with a of touch of drued herbs and a hint of coffee.

Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2021  Melini made from 100% single vineyard Sangiovese Grosso. Location Radda in Chianti. First produced in 1969. The vineyards are at 330/600 mt and divided into 29 1.5 ha plots The grapes are destemmed and fermented in stainless steel and cement tanks for 3 weeks. Maceration with submerged cap (Piemontesina) for 3 months Each plot is harvested, viinifed  and aged separately and then blended. The wine is aged in large 122 oak vats for 3 years, then in bottle for 1 year before release. The wine has hints of red and blue fruit, raspberries, blueberries, iris and toasted almonds.

Clonal selection

  • This is where Chianti Classico get “microscopic”. It is not just which grape, but which version of that grape tells the best story
  • Within Sangiovese, there is not 1 identity – some clones give aromatics, other structure, some ripen earlier, some deal with drought and heat better.
  • The work is matching plant material to place
    Massal V Nursery clones.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Selezione 2021  Sergio Zingarelli Rocca Delle Macie. Location Castellina in Chianti, Certified Organic. Made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 330/340 mt. Fermentation takes place in steel tanks for 10 days with a 30 day maceration. Malolactic fermentation is in concrete. The wine is aged in 25hl French oak of which 50% is new and then 20 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints ripe red fruit , cherry, plum, cassis with a touch of cedar and a hint of spice.

The Art of Blending

Historic Technique (da sempre)

Today, Blending is about shaping a wine into what the house is looking to express the vineyards

Chianti Classico DOCG-Annata & Riserva-Minimum 80% Sangiovese and 20% other reds

The Grand Selezione as of 2023 and mandatory as of 2027 a minimum of 90% Sangiovese, and 10% of Indigenous grapes. The UGA has to be on the label.

My impression:. I was very happy to see the direction that Chianti Classico is now taking, that is, using cement and amphora and aging the wine in everything from 500 liter to 122 hectoliter oak barrels without any barriques.

The 6 wines I tasted are a true expression of Chianti Classico and are very food friendly.  My kind of wine!

 

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May 7, 2026 · 1:23 am

The Chianti Classico Grand Tasting in NYC

The Chianti Classico Grand Tasting in NYC is an event that I look  forward to every  year.  Ever since I visited Florence and Tuscany back in 1970, I have enjoyed drinking Chianti Classico.  When I attend the Grand Tasting, I can meet and speak with the producers, restaurateurs, wine sales people, and friends, all of whom are lovers of Chianti Classico.

The Wines and the People of Chianti Classico

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Gran Selezione  2021 made from 100% Sangiovese from hillside vineyards at 500 meters. The soil is Alberese  and the training system is cordon and guyot. The 3 hectare vineyard was planted in the 1980’s. Hand harvested with selection in the vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. No added yeasts.  The wine ages for 22 months in 20 HL casks (botti). This is a structured and balanced fruity wine  with hints of red cherry, blackcurrants, ripe plum with a note of cinnamon and a touch of cloves.

I had visited the winery a few years ago and tasted the wine with Serena Gusmeri, the winemaker. To my surprise and delight Serena was at the tasting pouring the wines and we spoke about the wines. Serena  believes in as little interference in the winemaking process as possible and she believes that the grapes should speak for themselves. The vines are very old and they produce a wine that is very concentrated and can last for 20 years or more.  This concentration and longevity come from the grapes themselves and not from anything that is done during the winemaking process. My kind of wine.

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from their finest vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro.  The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September.  Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28– 30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied wine with hints of violet, black currants and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico.  This wine will age for 10 to 15 years.

Monsanto Chianti Classico “IL Poggio”  made from 95% Sangiovese and 3% Colorino and 2% Canaiolo. The training system is guyot and spurred cordon. The soil is sandstone content with limestone. There are 5,500 plants per hectare. Fermentation lasts for 15 days with pre-fermentation maceration lasting 3 days in temperature controlled truncated-cone vats with indigenous yeasts.  Delestage and pumping over lasts for 22 days. The wine is aged in 38 HL French oak barrels for 18 months. The wine has hints of black cherry, blueberry, cassis, coffee, tobacco and a note of violets. This is  a wine that can age and one of my favorites. I have a long history with Monsanto going back almost 40 years and the wonderful 1977 vintage. I visited the winery and met the owner, the legendary Fabrizio Bianchi, in 1983. Today the winery is in the hands of his daughter, Laura Bianchi.

At the event pouring the wine for Monsanto was Giulia Cecchi, daughter of Laura Bianchi and Andrea Cecchi ,CEO of Cecchi.

Andrea Ceechi holding the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2021 “Valore Di Famiglia” Cecchi made from 100% Sangiovese Made from the historic Cru Paragone vineyard in Castilian in Chianti. The soil is limestone and clay (alberese) with significant pebble content on steep slopes.  A minimum of 30 months total aging, including 15 months in oak tonneaux, followed by 3 months in concrete vats and at least one year of bottle resting. The wine has hints of blackberries, black cherry, rasperries, and  spice with a touch of walnut and a hint of balsamic. I have know Andrea Cecchi for a number of and it is always a pleasure to see and to speak to him. In the background of the photo is another friend,  Dino Tantawi, founder of Vignaioli Selections.

Carobbio Chianti Classico

Back in the 1980’s with Susan Westmorland and John Simmons we tried to buy this winery.  I believe back then it was called Villa Carobbio and the label was very different. We visited the winery and met with the owners in NYC but we could not come to an agreement.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo Panzano 2022 Fontodi made from 100% Sangiovese from the Vigna del Sorbo vineyard with a southwest exposure and 55 year old vines.  There are 3,500/6,000 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. Fermentation and maceration is in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts for at least 3 weeks. The wine is aged in French oak barriques and large casks for 24 months. The winery is certified organic.  The wine has hints of black cherry, black currants, blackberry, plum and a touch of spice.

This is a family winery is headed by Giovanni Manetti, who I have know for a number of years. He is also President of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium. 

Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selection Riserva Ducale Oro 2021 made from about 85 % Sangiovese with some Merlot and Colorino. As I was tasting this wine my mind went back to the 1947.

Chianti Riserva Ducale Ruffino 1947 made from 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo, 10% Malvasia and Trebbiano and 5% Colorino, Ciliegiolo and Cabernet. Made by using the governo method. Once common in Tuscany, governo is a secondary fermentation created by the addition of dried grapes 10-15%, or the must of dried or concentrated grapes.  Colorino was usually the grape of choice to be dried. The best grapes from Ruffino’s vineyard were used for the Riserva Ducale, which spent at least three years in large oak casks. The Riserva Gold Label is a selection of the lots of the best vintages of the Riserva Ducale. The wine was  well over 50 years old when I drank it and it was fantastic

Chianti Classico 2022 Riserva Chianti Classico  Tenuta Perano (Frescobaldi) Made from Sangiovese and Merlot. The vineyard is at 500 meters. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The cap formed on the surface is broken frequently to ensure perfect polyphonic extraction.  The wine is aged in oak barrels for 24 months and for a time in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berries, and leather with floral notes and a touch of pepper. $46 I have always enjoyed all the wines made by Frescobaldi.

Chianti Classico 2024 Banfi made from mostly Sangiovese and small amounts of Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. The soil is calcareous and well structured. Fermentation takes place with traditional skin contact of 8 to 10 days. The wine is aged for a short time in large casks of French oak. Bottling takes place the summer after the harvest. The wine has hints of cherries, plums and violets with a note of leather. Banfi has for many years been a leader in Italian Wine

Nest Time  the Master Class I attended at the Grand Tasting:        Tradition Thrives on Innovation: Techniques & Traditions Defining Chianti Classico. Hosted by Jeff Porter on Zoom from Torino and Randall Restiano

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April 23, 2026 · 2:29 am

Pizza and Old Barolo at Song ‘E Napule

Every time we visit our friend in New Jersey he wants to go to Song’E Napule in Rutherford for Pizza. Michele and I are only to happy to go with him as it is one of our favorite places for Pizza and he always brings a great old Barolo.

We started with Insalata Di Polpo:  chilled Mediterranean octopus, with organic parsley and lemon citronette dressing.  Tender octopus with arugula in a tangy dressing, it was a light and refreshing start.

Then the Pizza

Marinara — Tomato Sauce Slow Food (san Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil (no cheese). With my addition of anchovies.

Pizza Napoletana –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), anchovies, basil, oregano and extra virgin olive oil. This is Michele’s favorite.

Cotto E Funghi — Tomato sauce Slow Food (san Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), prosciutto cotto (ham), mushrooms, basil and extra virgin olive oil. Our friend ordered this one.

Barolo 1996 “Monprivato” Giuseppe  Mascarello E Figlio. Made from 100% Nebbiolo. This is a Classic Barolo. Big and complex with hints of tobacco, leather, licorice, roses and deep dark fruit. It is a great wine made in a great year and 1996 for Barolo may be the best vintage in the last 30 years.

Song’ E Napule is located at 106 Park Ave, Rutherford NJ  (201) 347-9339. They also have three locations in Manhattan.

A taste of Napoli in New Jersey with great wine and good friends — that’s Song’ E Napule.

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April 16, 2026 · 2:49 am

Doctor Wine Guide is Now an App

The Doctor Wine Guide at your fingertips on the app

Tutta la Guida DoctorWine a portata di clic
Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine, is a true Roman and Michele and I have we have been friends with him and his wife Marina Thompson for  a number of years. He is an authority on Italian wine and has been a wine critic for many years. Daniele was one of the founders of Gambero Rosso and for 24 years was the editor of the Gambero Rosso Slow Food Wine Guide. Daniele was the creator of the now famous Tre Bicchieri, Three Glasses wine classification. Currently, he has his own web-magazine called “Doctor Wine” www.doctorwine.it.

The Essential Guide to the Wines of Italy 2026 is now available in a new app: completely revamped, more intuitive, to carry with you at all times. Available for Android and iOS, in Italian and English. And this fall, the update featuring the new 2027 edition will be released.

Stefania Vinciguerra, chief editor and journalist for Doctor Wine, writes:

It is easy to say: let’s make the guidebook app.  But after a first test version – a few years ago – that didn’t satisfy us, we had to rethink everything from scratch. Because making an app is not just about “putting” a guidebook online: you have to know exactly what you want to achieve and how to translate complex work into an easy-to-use tool.

One should not make the mistake of outsourcing the design. It is a job that can really only be done by those who lead it and build it day in and day out.

We can say that we have learned from our mistakes, and now the result is a practical, fast, and feature-rich app.

Lots of search options

You can freely explore both the “wineries” and “wines” sections, with multiple and cross-referenced searches.

Do you want to know which wines were awarded by The Essential Guide to the Wines of Italy 2026? Which ones deserved the single, double or triple facet? Research wines by region, appellation, color, grape variety, producer… Or find out which ones have favorable value for money.

Are you interested in organic wineries? In those that have direct sales? with geolocation you can also easily find them around you and reaching them will be a cinch.

Maybe you’re at home and want to console yourself by looking up which wineries have online shops? Don’t worry: that information is also just a click away.

Eating and sleeping in the vineyards

There are also “eating” and “sleeping” sections to find wineries offering hospitality and catering.

These two sections, in particular, will have future implementations, already in the works. Because, in practice, it is our Eating and Sleeping in the Vineyards guide that is changing its skin and going from paper to digital, entering fully into the app.

And these are just a few of the many facets of the DoctorWine app.

All the 2026 Guide always with you

Inside you’ll find the entire The Essential Guide to the Wines of Italy 2026, with the 1,348 wineries described and the entries for the 3,425 wines reviewed.

An update with the new 2027 edition will arrive in the fall, in both Italian and English.

Don’t miss the chance to have the DoctorWine guide always in your pocket: download the app now, it’s free!

Click here for Android download
Click here for iOS download

 

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April 9, 2026 · 2:51 am

New Winemaker for San Felice Chianti Classico

San Felice wine estates has appointed Francesca Giuggioli as the new Head Winemaker of their Chianti Classico estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany.

 Owned by the Grisaldi del Taja family from 1700 to 1968, the estate was acquired by the Allianza Group in the 1970’s.  Today it spans about 685 hectares across Tuscany’s prestigious wine producing  areas of  Chianti Classico Montalcino and Bolgheri.  The estate is home to the Vitiarium Collection and the Borgo San Felice Relais & Chareau.

Francesca has been with the winery since 20o8.  I have been enjoying the wines of San Felice for many years and was very interested in the new winemaker.  Recently I was invited to a tasting of the wines of San Felice in NYC with Francesca, but I was unable to attend because at the time I was in Rome.  When I returned, I contacted Virginia Cademartori of Head of PR and Communications for PLATINUM MEDIA LLC and she put me in touch with Francesca.

  Francesca was kind enough to answer some questions about her new position and her winemaking philosophy.  The following are some of her responses and descriptions of some of the wines that she will be working on.

“My journey with San Felice began in 2008, when I joined as a young winemaker. Being appointed head winemaker is not a destination, but the natural evolution of years dedicated to elevating the character and quality of our wines. It reflects the estate’s trust in me to carry forward its identity and vision. With this role comes a broader perspective, along with a deep sense of responsibility and belonging.”


In Avane Chardonnay Toscana 2024 made from mostly Chardonnay from San Felice (Castelnuovo Berardenga, Siena).  In Avane, from “Avenal” the Etruscan name of the area, encloses a trace of the ancient culture present in the territory of San Felice. The soil is of medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl, breakdown of alberese and galestro limestones and the training system is spur-pruned cordon. Harvest takes place by hand the first week of September in the early morning hours.  Maceration at a temperature of 8° C. Fermentation predominantly in steel and partly in oak barrels. Bottle aging for a few months before release. The wine has hints of citrus, white flowers, peach, pear, with a note of acacia and a touch of melon. $33

Pugnitello Tuscan IGT 2022 made from 100% Pugnitello. Pugnitello is an ancient Tuscan native grape variety whose name means little fist, because of the shape of the clusters.  Following its rediscovery, it has been researched, in collaboration with the universities of Florence and Pisa, in San Felice’s experimental vineyard. The wine is the fruit of 20 years of study and experimentation focused on saving native Tuscan grapes from extinction. The vineyard is located Castlenuovo Berardenga (Siena).  Soil is medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of galestro limestones, with an abundant gravel-pebble mix. The training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the first week of October. There is a 20-25 day fermentation on the skins at 30C, followed by malolactic fermentation. Aging of the wine is in 225-liter French oak barriques for 18 to 20 months and 8 months in the bottle before release. This is a full bodied concentrated wine  with hints of wild fruit preserves of black and red fruit, blackcurrants, cherries, cinnamon, clove,  a touch of tobacco and a hint of spice. This is a wine that will age. $69

Francesca also said,  “My philosophy is to craft wines that gently reflect their terroir, expressing it with sensitivity and respect. I believe in preserving authenticity, allowing each parcel to tell its own story without forcing expression. The result is wines that are inviting from the very first sip, approachable in their youth, yet capable of developing depth, complexity, and longevity over time. Harmony, purity of fruit, and grace lie at the heart of every bottle, reflecting the land, its history, and our commitment.”

Borgo Chianti Classico 2022 DOCG made from Sangiovese and Pugnitello. The vineyard is located Castlenuovo Berardenga.   Soil is medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of galestro limestones, with a abundant gravel-pebble mix. The training system is cordoned speronato and guyot. Harvest is the third week September to the first week of October. Vinification is in stainless steel for 2 weeks separately for each variety. Aging for approximately 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. The wine has hints of black fruit, blackberries, blueberries, black cherry and plum. $33

Francesca also spoke about what is important to her and her vision for the winery.
“What matters most to me is respecting what has been built over time, while remaining open to thoughtful evolution. It is about preserving the identity of the estate without standing still, allowing each vintage to express its own voice while remaining true to a clear vision. Every decision, from vineyard to cellar, should serve a single purpose: to reveal the authenticity of our land with balance and precision.”

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from the finest company vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro.  The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September.  Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28– 30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied wine with hints of violet, black currants and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico.  This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $50

Congratulations to Francesca Giuggioli on her new position!  I look forward to many more years of enjoying the wines of San Felice.

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