Last week as part of the Chianti Classico Grand Tasting in NYC there were two Master Classes.
I attended one of then with the interesting title, “Tradition Thrives on Innovation: Techniques & Traditions Defining Chianti Classico.” The speakers were Jeff Porter on Zoom from Torino and Randall Restiano who was present at the event.
Giovanni Manetti, President of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium and owner of Fontodi spoke about Chianti Classico. He introduced the Master Class and the topics to be discussed and the 6 wines which we tasted.
Some of the topics discussed included the use of Terracotta Amphora, Whole Cluster Fermentation, The Art Of Blending, and Clonal Selection. I will discus these topics in relation to the wines.
THE WINES
Chianti Classico “Dino” 2022 Fontodi made from 100% Sangiovese from various vineyards within the property. Produced in the “Conca d’Oro” of Panzano. There are 6,000 vines per hectare. Fermentation and maceration are in terracotta amphora with indigenous yeast for at least 3 weeks. The wine is aged for 18 months in terracotta amphora. It has hints of red cherry, cranberry, plum, with a touch of violet and a hint of leather.
Terracotta amphora
Micro-oxygenation: The porous clay allows subtle oxygen exchange, helping with fermentation and color stability in red wines.
Temperature Regulation: Terracotta offers natural thermal insulation, keeping liquid cool through evaporation, which slows and steadies fermentation.
Neutral Aging: Unlike oak, clay does not add wood tannins or flavors, allowing the pure, earthy characteristics of the wine to shine.
Aging Potential: Wine in clay tends to have a brighter mouthfeel and is ready to drink sooner.
Chianti Classico Riserva “Le Vigne” 2022 Radda in Chianti and Gaiole in Chianti Istine made from 100% Sangiovese and the training system is guyot. The vineyards are at 400/500 meters and each vineyard is vinified separately. 90% of the wine is fermented in concrete and 10% is whole clusters done in steel. Fermentation is for 15 days then pressed off and aged in tonneaux. The submerged cap maceration lasts for 45 days. The wines are then separated into 20 hl oak barrels for 12 months. The wines are then blended together and aged for 12 more months in 30 hl Slavonian oak. Then it remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, and cranberry with a touch of violet and a note of spice. The winery is certified organic.
Whole Cluster Fermentation
- Entire grape bunch goes into the tank intact: berries + stems + rachis
- Structurally influential technique
- Clusters on the bottom are crushed by the weight of the others and juice runs out and fermentation can start
- Intact berries begin intracellular fermentation
- Stems interact with juice and release tannins, potassium, & aromatic compounds
- As more berries burst stems are submerged and become part of the extraction process
What does it do to the wine?
- Can add lift aromatically
- Can increase tannic structure–more linear and less dense than wood or seed tannin
- Can give grip or tension without weight
- Potassium will slightly raise the pH, soften perceived acidity
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano” 2016 Conti Capponi made from 100% single vineyard Sangiovese. Location is in Graven Chianti-Montefoiralle. The vineyards are at 280 mt. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in open-top tonneaux with 50% whole clusters and maceration lasts for 18 days. Then the wine is racked off into 10 hl Slavonian casks and aged for 20 months with 2 to 4 rackings. The wine is then bottle aged for 12 months. It has hints of strawberry, violets, red cherry and a touch of cardamom.
Chianti Classico Isole e Olena made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino. Location San Donato in Poggio. The vineyards are at 380/400 mt. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in steel tanks with 2 weeks of maceration with pump overs. The wine is racked off into 17/23hl casks and aged for 12 months. It remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of red cherry, plum, strawberries, with a of touch of drued herbs and a hint of coffee.
Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2021 Melini made from 100% single vineyard Sangiovese Grosso. Location Radda in Chianti. First produced in 1969. The vineyards are at 330/600 mt and divided into 29 1.5 ha plots The grapes are destemmed and fermented in stainless steel and cement tanks for 3 weeks. Maceration with submerged cap (Piemontesina) for 3 months Each plot is harvested, viinifed and aged separately and then blended. The wine is aged in large 122 oak vats for 3 years, then in bottle for 1 year before release. The wine has hints of red and blue fruit, raspberries, blueberries, iris and toasted almonds.
Clonal selection
- This is where Chianti Classico get “microscopic”. It is not just which grape, but which version of that grape tells the best story
- Within Sangiovese, there is not 1 identity – some clones give aromatics, other structure, some ripen earlier, some deal with drought and heat better.
- The work is matching plant material to place
Massal V Nursery clones.
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Selezione 2021 Sergio Zingarelli Rocca Delle Macie. Location Castellina in Chianti, Certified Organic. Made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 330/340 mt. Fermentation takes place in steel tanks for 10 days with a 30 day maceration. Malolactic fermentation is in concrete. The wine is aged in 25hl French oak of which 50% is new and then 20 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints ripe red fruit , cherry, plum, cassis with a touch of cedar and a hint of spice.
The Art of Blending
Historic Technique (da sempre)
Today, Blending is about shaping a wine into what the house is looking to express the vineyards
Chianti Classico DOCG-Annata & Riserva-Minimum 80% Sangiovese and 20% other reds
The Grand Selezione as of 2023 and mandatory as of 2027 a minimum of 90% Sangiovese, and 10% of Indigenous grapes. The UGA has to be on the label.
My impression:. I was very happy to see the direction that Chianti Classico is now taking, that is, using cement and amphora and aging the wine in everything from 500 liter to 122 hectoliter oak barrels without any barriques.
The 6 wines I tasted are a true expression of Chianti Classico and are very food friendly. My kind of wine!