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The Wines of San Salvatore 1988

Falanghina, a white wine from Campania, is my favorite wine to enjoy with seafood. One I particularly enjoy is the Falanghina from Azienda Agricola San Salvatore 1988.  Recently I was invited  by Serena Valeriani from Miriade & Partners to a lunch featuring the wines of San Salvatore and, since I was unfamiliar with the rest of their wines, I was only too happy to attend in order to learn more. Thr lunch was held at Audace Ristorante in NYC.

The speakers were Giuseppe Pagano, Founder and CEO, and Elena Spadoni Waxman, the Brand Ambassador, who also acted as a translator for Mr. Pagano.

I was very impressed by Mr. Pagano who was not only very enthusiastic about his winery but also about the history and geography of the area were his winery is located. He explained the geography and terroir and spoke about the history going back to the ancient Greeks.

Azienda Agricola San Salvatore is located in the middle of the National Park of Cilento, near Paestum in the Campania region of southern Italy. In 2006 Giuseppe Pagano, a successful entrepreneur and hotelier in the Paestum region of Campania, created San Salvatore 1988.  The winery is named for Giuseppe’s firstborn son, Salvatore, who was born in 1988.

San Salvatore has quickly become one of Italy’s most environmentally-conscious azienda agricolas. There are 149 hectares devoted to organically farmed agriculture, including vineyards, olive groves, and crops that support their 550-head of water buffalo.

They make mozzarella, yogurt and gelato from the buffalo milk. Mr Pagano  said there was also a restaurant on the property.

The Wines

Campania Falangina IGP 2023 made from 100% single variety Falanghina from the Cannito vineyard planted in 2008 at 150/210 meters. The exposure is south, southwest and the soil is of medium texture and deep. The training system is espalier with Guyot pruning.  The average age of the vines is 19 years. After manual harvesting the finest bunches, the grapes are softly pressed and subjected to cold maceration for 6 hours at 4C. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a low temperature. Before bottling, the wine ages on the lees for 6 months in stainless steel tanks. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, green apple, a touch of pineapple and a note of apricot.

Paestum Fiano IGP 2021 Pian Di Stio made from 100% Fiano. These grapes come from a special cru in the Stio vineyard chosen annually. The vines are at 550/650 meters and the exposure is south. Soil composition is clay and limestone. There is 6 hours of cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation in stainless steel. Aging is in French oak barriques and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of peach, green apple, vanilla, almonds a hint of fig and a touch of honey.

Campania Rosato IGP 2024 Vetere made from 100% Aglianico from an ancient terroir, in a vineyard in the shadow of the temples of Paestum, in the heart of the Cilento National Park. This wine takes its name from Magliano Vetere, a small town in the Cilento National Park near San Salvatore’s Cannito vineyards where the organic grapes used to make this wine are grown. The vines are at 150/210 meters and were planted in 2008. The exposure is south/southwest and the soil is clay and limestone. There is a cold maceration for 6 hours, followed by a soft pressing of the grapes with brief contact with the skins to extract the smallest amount of color and elegant refined aromas. Elena described it as ,“A rosé with a Provençal color yet one that speaks of the entire Cilento Region.”  She also said Mr. Pagano went to Provence to see how the rosè was made there.  The wine has hints of red fruit, strawberries, rasperries with a touch of violets and a note of citrus fruit.

Paestum Aglianico  IGP 2016 Omaggio a Gillodorfles made from 100% Aglianico. Mr Pagano said this wine is named for Gillo Dorfles, an Italian genius of the 20th Century. He was in love with Paestum and with the majesty of its history. He spent his summers here enjoying art, the sea, the temples as well as the vineyards of San Salvatore.  He was a professor of aesthetics at the University of Milan and Trieste and an artist. Above all, he was in love with Paestum and its majesty. Mr. Pagano decided to dedicate sixteen vintages of this wine to him.

The vineyard was planted in 2005 at 150/210 meters with a south/southwest exposure. The soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for 30 days. Aging: 24 months in new French oak barrels, 1/3 Allier, 1/3 Nevers and 1/3 Troncais. The wine has hints of cherry, blueberry, blackcurrant, blackberry, violet a hint of juniper and a touch of chocolate.

Pastrami Aglianico IGP 2017  Omaggio a Gillodorfles this is a very intense wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, blueberry, raspberry with a touch of spice and balsamic notes.

Mr. Pagano said that the 2016 was a exceptional year for Aglianico while 2017 was very warm and produced wines which had jammy fruit and will be ready to drink sooner. They were very different wines.

Paestum Aglianico  IGP Jungano 2021 made from 100% Aglianico. This wine is named for the town of Giungano where the San Salvatore winery is located. The vineyards are at 150/210 meters and were planted in 2008. The exposure is south/southeast and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are vinified at a controlled temperature. The wine is matured in stainless steel and aged for a year in stainless steel and wood. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberries, violets and spice.

It was my pleasure to meet Mr. Pagano and taste a range of his wines.  I am happy to report that I enjoyed them as much as his Falanghina.

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Chianti Classico Today: Master Class

Last week as part of  the Chianti Classico Grand Tasting in NYC there were two Master Classes.

I attended one of then with the interesting title, “Tradition Thrives on Innovation: Techniques & Traditions Defining Chianti Classico.” The speakers were Jeff Porter on Zoom from Torino and Randall Restiano who was present at the event.  

Giovanni Manetti, President of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium and owner of Fontodi  spoke about Chianti Classico.  He introduced the Master Class and the topics to be discussed and the 6 wines which we tasted.

Some of the topics discussed included the use of Terracotta Amphora, Whole Cluster Fermentation, The Art Of Blending, and Clonal Selection.  I will discus these topics in relation to the wines.

THE WINES

Chianti Classico “Dino” 2022 Fontodi made from 100% Sangiovese from various vineyards within  the property.  Produced in the “Conca d’Oro” of Panzano.  There are 6,000 vines per hectare. Fermentation and maceration are in terracotta amphora with indigenous yeast for at least 3 weeks. The wine is aged for 18 months in terracotta amphora. It has hints of red cherry, cranberry, plum, with a touch of violet and a hint of leather.

Terracotta amphora

Micro-oxygenation: The porous clay allows subtle oxygen exchange, helping with fermentation and color stability in red wines.

Temperature Regulation: Terracotta offers natural thermal insulation, keeping liquid cool through evaporation, which slows and steadies fermentation.

Neutral Aging: Unlike oak, clay does not add wood tannins or flavors, allowing the pure, earthy characteristics of the wine to shine.

Aging Potential: Wine in clay tends to have a brighter mouthfeel and is ready to drink sooner.

Chianti Classico Riserva “Le Vigne” 2022 Radda in Chianti and  Gaiole in Chianti Istine made from 100% Sangiovese and the training system is guyot. The vineyards are at 400/500 meters and each vineyard is vinified separately. 90% of the wine is fermented in concrete and 10% is whole clusters done in steel. Fermentation is for 15 days then pressed off and aged in tonneaux. The submerged cap maceration lasts for 45 days. The wines are then separated into 20 hl oak barrels for 12 months.  The wines are then blended together and aged for 12 more months in 30 hl Slavonian oak. Then it remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, raspberry, and cranberry with a touch of violet and a note of spice.  The winery is certified organic.

Whole Cluster Fermentation

  • Entire grape bunch goes into the tank intact: berries + stems + rachis
  • Structurally influential technique
  • Clusters on the bottom are crushed by the weight of the others and juice runs out and fermentation can start
  • Intact berries begin intracellular fermentation
  • Stems interact with juice and release tannins, potassium, & aromatic compounds
  • As more berries burst stems are submerged and become part of the extraction process

What does it do to the wine?

  • Can add lift aromatically
  • Can increase tannic structure–more linear and less dense than wood or seed tannin
  • Can give grip or tension without weight
  • Potassium will slightly raise the pH, soften perceived acidity

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione “Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano” 2016 Conti Capponi made from 100% single vineyard Sangiovese.  Location is in Graven Chianti-Montefoiralle. The vineyards are at 280 mt. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in open-top tonneaux with 50% whole clusters and maceration lasts for 18 days. Then the wine is racked off  into 10 hl Slavonian casks and aged for 20 months with 2 to 4 rackings. The wine is then bottle aged for 12 months.  It has hints of  strawberry, violets, red cherry and a touch of cardamom.

Chianti Classico Isole e Olena made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino. Location San Donato in Poggio. The vineyards are at 380/400 mt. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in steel tanks with 2 weeks of maceration with pump overs. The wine is racked off into 17/23hl casks and aged for 12 months. It remains in the bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of red cherry, plum, strawberries, with a of touch of drued herbs and a hint of coffee.

Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella 2021  Melini made from 100% single vineyard Sangiovese Grosso. Location Radda in Chianti. First produced in 1969. The vineyards are at 330/600 mt and divided into 29 1.5 ha plots The grapes are destemmed and fermented in stainless steel and cement tanks for 3 weeks. Maceration with submerged cap (Piemontesina) for 3 months Each plot is harvested, viinifed  and aged separately and then blended. The wine is aged in large 122 oak vats for 3 years, then in bottle for 1 year before release. The wine has hints of red and blue fruit, raspberries, blueberries, iris and toasted almonds.

Clonal selection

  • This is where Chianti Classico get “microscopic”. It is not just which grape, but which version of that grape tells the best story
  • Within Sangiovese, there is not 1 identity – some clones give aromatics, other structure, some ripen earlier, some deal with drought and heat better.
  • The work is matching plant material to place
    Massal V Nursery clones.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Selezione 2021  Sergio Zingarelli Rocca Delle Macie. Location Castellina in Chianti, Certified Organic. Made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyards are at 330/340 mt. Fermentation takes place in steel tanks for 10 days with a 30 day maceration. Malolactic fermentation is in concrete. The wine is aged in 25hl French oak of which 50% is new and then 20 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints ripe red fruit , cherry, plum, cassis with a touch of cedar and a hint of spice.

The Art of Blending

Historic Technique (da sempre)

Today, Blending is about shaping a wine into what the house is looking to express the vineyards

Chianti Classico DOCG-Annata & Riserva-Minimum 80% Sangiovese and 20% other reds

The Grand Selezione as of 2023 and mandatory as of 2027 a minimum of 90% Sangiovese, and 10% of Indigenous grapes. The UGA has to be on the label.

My impression:. I was very happy to see the direction that Chianti Classico is now taking, that is, using cement and amphora and aging the wine in everything from 500 liter to 122 hectoliter oak barrels without any barriques.

The 6 wines I tasted are a true expression of Chianti Classico and are very food friendly.  My kind of wine!

 

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Pizza and Old Barolo at Song ‘E Napule

Every time we visit our friend in New Jersey he wants to go to Song’E Napule in Rutherford for Pizza. Michele and I are only to happy to go with him as it is one of our favorite places for Pizza and he always brings a great old Barolo.

We started with Insalata Di Polpo:  chilled Mediterranean octopus, with organic parsley and lemon citronette dressing.  Tender octopus with arugula in a tangy dressing, it was a light and refreshing start.

Then the Pizza

Marinara — Tomato Sauce Slow Food (san Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil (no cheese). With my addition of anchovies.

Pizza Napoletana –Tomato sauce Slow Food (San Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), anchovies, basil, oregano and extra virgin olive oil. This is Michele’s favorite.

Cotto E Funghi — Tomato sauce Slow Food (san Marzano DOP eccellenze nolane), mozzarella (fiordilatte di Agerola), prosciutto cotto (ham), mushrooms, basil and extra virgin olive oil. Our friend ordered this one.

Barolo 1996 “Monprivato” Giuseppe  Mascarello E Figlio. Made from 100% Nebbiolo. This is a Classic Barolo. Big and complex with hints of tobacco, leather, licorice, roses and deep dark fruit. It is a great wine made in a great year and 1996 for Barolo may be the best vintage in the last 30 years.

Song’ E Napule is located at 106 Park Ave, Rutherford NJ  (201) 347-9339. They also have three locations in Manhattan.

A taste of Napoli in New Jersey with great wine and good friends — that’s Song’ E Napule.

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Da Attilio — Naples Pizza At Its Best

Napoli, they say, is the birthplace of pizza. Though the ingredients and styles have changed over the centuries, Napoli is still the best place to get great pizza.

Michele and I have been visiting the city since 1970 and we have tried all kinds of pizza.  Our favorites change from time to time and while we enjoy going back to old favorites, we also like to try new-to-us pizzerias recommended by friends.  One pizzeria we currently enjoy is Da Attilio, located in the Pignasecca neighborhood.

We try to go early because there is always a line outside.

The pizzaiolo is Attilio Bachetti and on a recent night he was making the pizza, as he often does.

The dough is simple and straightforward, using the classic Mulino Caputo blue flour.  Only the best and freshest toppings are used.

We started with crocche, potato croquettes.

The croquettes consisted of mashed potatoes flavored with provola cheese and fried in a coating of crunchy breadcrumbs.

Michele had the Pizza Marinara, topped with a simple tomato sauce, sliced garlic, fresh basil and dried oregano.

Our friend, Stefano, had the Pizza Carrettiera topped with provola, Benevento sausage and broccoli rabe.

I usually have the Margarita but decided this time to have something different.

Pizza Carnevale is Attilio’s specialty.  The eight points of the crust are stuffed with fresh, velvety ricotta cheese. The central toppings are inspired by the traditional Neapolitan carnival lasagna — tomato sauce, fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella), pork sausage, and pecorino cheese.

The recipe for Pizza Carnevale dates back to at least 1944.  Attilio Bachetti reintroduced it after finding the recipe on a menu from his grandfather’s era.  Da Attilio has been a family owned restaurant since 1938.

If you are planning a visit to Napoli, be sure to give Da Attilio a try.

Via Pignasecca, 17, Napoli, in the historic Pignasecca area near via Toledo.

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The Perfect Christmas Dinner

Michele and I always look forward to Christmas dinner with Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow. For a number of years it has been our tradition to invite Tom and Diane to our house for Thanksgiving dinner, and they have us to their home for Christmas. They are excellent and adventurous cooks.  Tom has a great wine collection and will try to find the perfect wine match each course.  Though all of our previous holiday celebrations have been wonderful, it seemed to be extra-special this year.

Champagne John Charles Ricciuti Premier Cru Réserve  NV made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and aging is in steel tanks. Residual sugar is7g/l and the alcohol is 12 %. The wine has hints of apple,  ginger with a hint of pear and a touch of lemon.


A plate of freshly baked gougeres accompanied the Champagne along with slices of felino salami, nuts and olives.

At the table, we enjoyed a first course of individual leek and mascarpone tartlets, but I forgot to take a picture!

Beaune Boucherottes Premier Cru 2012 made from 100% Pinot Noir. ”Les Boucherottes” is a premier cru vineyard at the southern edge of Beaune, bordering Pommard, with deep clay soils adding lushness and power.  2012 was a high-quality, small-yield vintage in Burgundy, known for concentrated wines. This is a serious wine with hints of dark cherry, raspberries , strawberry, and a touch of leather. This wine will last for a number of years.

Perfectly cooked prime rib of beef was the star of the evening, accompanied by sauteed mushrooms, green beans, and potato gratin.

Roast ready to serve.  Tom carved it to order.

On the plate

Grignolino delle Langhe 1979 Cavallotto Made from 100% Grignolino.

In 2017 I tasted Grignolino of the Monferrato Casalese “Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie “ 2011 Giulio Accornero & Figli made from 100% Grignolino  at the home of wine writer Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine. Most Grignolino is meant to be drunk young, within one or two years of production, so I was surprised at how well this wine had held up and I really enjoyed it.

The 1979 vintage Grignolino that Tom served was further proof that Grignolino can age.  With its spicy notes, and flavor of raspberries, pomegranate, rhubarb and a touch of smoke it was a revelation. An amazing wine!!

 

A selection of cheeses to savor with the Barolo

Barolo 2004 Marchese di Barolo  Nebbiolo grapes coming from the best crus of the municipality of Barolo. Grapes harvested in Cannubi, Sarmassa, Coste di Rose, Vignane, Preda, Boschetti and Ravera contribute to the production of the wine. The soil is rich in clay with some silt, sand and limestone. Harvested by hand, a selection of the best bunches is made in the vineyard. Each cru is vinified separately: the destemmed and pressed grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel fermenters. The maceration on the skins lasts approximately 15 days during which pumping the must over the pomace cap favors maximum extraction of the polyphenolic substances contained within the skin.  After malolactic fermentation, the individual wines obtained from the different crus are blended. The refinement of Barolo from the municipality of Barolo lasts approximately 2 years, of which the first year half of the volume is stored in small French oak barrels and the remaining half in 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels; while the second year the entire volume is brought together and the maturation ends in large traditional Slavonian oak barrels.  The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, raspberry, roses, violets, licorice and a touch of leather

Michele provided one of the desserts, a pear and almond tart.

Diane’s Christmas Cookie selection included Toll House, Peanut Butter, Granadinas and Ciambellini al Vino.

Thanks to Tom and Diane for another wonderful Christmas dinner.

Happy New Year!

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IL Matriciano — the Tradition Continues

I have been going to Il Matriciano Restaurant in Rome for over 40 years.  Even though it underwent a complete renovation in 2017, it has changed very little since my first visit. They may have modernized the look, but the traditional Roman food, the service and the atmosphere remain the same as it was in 1983. We enjoyed it so much that on our recent short trip, we ate there two times.

The Colasanti Family has owned and operated the restaurant since 1912 and Alberto Colasanti and his sister, Rosa, have been running the restaurant for the past 50 years.

Alberto greets the guests and oversees the operations and can also be seen sometimes plating the pasta Amatriciana, their specialty. Alberto’s daughters, Cristiana e Fiore, are also invaluable members of his team. They are always present, eager to continue the family tradition and proud to be part of a family that has been in the Roman restaurant business for over a century.

There is a nice outdoor space but we like to sit inside, which seems to be favored by the Romans.

The following represents some of the dishes that we and some friends enjoyed at Il Matriciano.

For an appetizer, I always order the stuffed zucchini flowers.  I cannot get enough of them. The flowers contain a small amount of mozzarella and more than a hint of anchovy stuffing. They are coated with a thin batter and fried until crisp outside and melting within.Then Artichokes alla Giudia

Puntarella Salad.  Puntarella is Catalonian chicory which is very popular this time of year topped with anchovy dressing. A favorite of Michele.

Artichoke Salad with Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano

La Vignarola, stewed peas, artichokes and fava beans.

Pasta all’Amatriciana, bucatini with guanciale, tomato and pecorino cheese. My favorite pasta.

Spaghetti with tomato, capers and olives

Homemade pappardelle pasta with tomato and prosciutto

The Friday special was Baccalà, salt cod cooked in a tomato sauce with raisins and pine nuts.

Porcini mushrooms are simply roasted with olive oil and parsley.  A perfect meatless meal.

 

Abbacchio al forno, baby lamb roasted with potatoes and rosemary. It was cooked to perfection, moist with crisp skin.

 

Tiny, fragrant fragoline del bosco, wild strawberries with crema gelato. I had the berries plain with a squeeze of lemon.

Il Matriciano (39-06-32500364) Via dei Gracchi, 55, Rome

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Tasting Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

The town of Montepulciano is one of Tuscany’s gems. I always enjoy walking through the cobbled medieval streets and spotting views of the surrounding countryside where seemingly endless rows of grapevines grow.  The grapes are used to produce the magnificent wines of the area, especially Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a tasting of Vino Nobile del Montepulciano in NYC. I was invited by Paola Pavan, Chief Marketing Officer OPC International LLC and the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

The tasting and lunch was held at Locanda Verde at 50 Hudson Yards in New York.  About 25 guests were assembled at the table and there were about 30 bottles of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  We were invited to taste as many wines as we liked.

The speaker was Andrea Rossi, president of the Vino Nobile del Montepulciano Consorzio. He spoke about the new Pieve Vino Nobile di Montepulciano designation. The translator was Marina Nedic of Executive Director International Event & Exhibition Management.

Recently, 12 zones or Additional Geographic Units (UGA) were identified through research conducted by the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano focusing on the geology and geography of the territory near Pieve.

A historical study of the area’s winemaking traditions, landscapes, and heritage revealed that during the late Roman and Lombard eras, the region was divided into parishes, know in Italian as Pieve, each with its own distinct name. Honoring  this centuries-old tradition, the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano chose to name the 12 UGAs using the the word “Pieve” followed by the historical place name from those ancient times. These 12 zones will now be featured on wine labels proudly bearing the word “Pieve” as a tribute to Montepulciano’s deep rooted history and terroir.

The 12 “Pieve” UGAs

The Vino Nobile production zone is positioned on a hilly ridge between Val di Chiana and Val d’Orcia at altitudes between 820 and 1900 feet. The climate is largely influenced by the nearby Trasimeno Lake, with soils composed of marine fossils, sandstone, salt rich clay and precious silt deposits.

I was in Montepulciano in 1997  on a press trip when the Vino Nobile Consortium was debating the idea of adding international grapes, especially Merlot. All of the wine writers on the trip were against it but the Consortium approved it anyway.

Today, after all those years, I am very happy to report that starting with the 2021 Vintage Merlot will no longer be allowed in the blend. The minimum amount of Sangiovese will go from 70% to 85% and only indigenous grapes like Canaiolo, Colorino and Mammolo can be in the blend. Prugnolo Gentile is the local name for the Sangiovese grape.

In order to highlight Vino Nobile di Montepuliciano’s significant personality, and avoid any confusion with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, some producers will now refer to their wines simply as “Nobile” instead of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  Like the adding of Merlot, this is a mistake.  Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has a long history and tradition in its name.

Vino Nobile often falls in the shadows of its Tuscan neighbors Chianti and Brunello.  Vino Nobile was the first DOCG to appear on the Italian market and is a renowned red wine that stands on its own.

The town of Montepulciano in Tuscany is the center for Vino Nobile vinification. Production, vinification, and aging must by law take place in the municipal area of Montepulciano including the Valdichiana area. The vineyards must be  250 to 600 meters above sea level.

Vino Nobile is aged for a minimum of two years, including one in oak barrels or casks and three years total in order to be called a Riserva with a minimum natural alcohol content of 12.5%.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione “Asinine”  made from 100% Sangiovese Poliziano.  The vineyard is at 380 to 400 meters and the soil is clay and silt with embedded fossils. Training system is guyot and spur pruned cordon. Vines are from 3 to 53 years old. Fermentation is in stainless steel vats for 20 to 25 days with cultured yeasts from the vineyard at a controlled temperature.  Filtration is with 5-micron polypropylene cartridges.  Aging is for 16 to 18 months in French tonneaux. and 8 months in bottle before release. Sustainable farming practices are used and the wine is vegan. The winery suggests serving Fiorentina steak with the wine.

I visited the winery 25 years ago and have always liked their wines. This is a rich and vibrant wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, strawberry, plum, violets, good acidity and would age for 10 years or more. It was one of my favorites. $70

Vino Noble di Montepulciano Poggetto di Sopra 2021 made from 100% Sangiovese. Avignonesi The vines were planted in 1978 and are Capovolto Toscano trained at an altitude of 300 meters with a density of 1,038 plants per hectare.  They are the oldest vines on the estate. Harvest is from September 21st to 25th.  There is 28 days of maceration at a controlled temperature. Alcoholic fermentation is carried out by the yeasts selected from the pied de cuve, meaning the first batch of grapes that is harvested in advance to select the yeasts naturally present on the skins. This will become the basic yeast for the fermentation of the grapes which will be harvested later. This process enhances the link between the wine and its vineyard, thus sealing its sense of place.  The wine is aged for 24 months in oak barriques and tonneaux. The wine has hints of cherry, strawberry, raspberry, violets and a touch of cedar. It is vegan and the grapes are biodynamically grown. $62

The Poggetto di Sopra Five Nobile producers — Salcheto, Poliziano, La Braccesca, Boscarelli, and Avignonesi — all share in the dedication to Nobile’s rediscovery. The five winemakers have coordinated their respective work and each crafted a cru 100% Sangiovese Nobile 2021 specifically for this project.

Vino Noble di Montepulciano “Vigna d’Afiero” Selezione 2020 Tenuta Valdipiatta made from 100% Sangiovese. The training system is spur pruned cordon and guyot. Vinification is in steel tanks at controlled temperatures between 24 and 28 °C. Maceration on the skins for 20-25 days. Daily pump over and délestage at the beginning and in the middle of fermentation. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation takes place in temperature controlled steel tanks.  The wine is aged in French Allier barriques (225 liters) 20% new oak for 18 months. The wine remains in the bottle for a period of time before release. The wine has hints of black cherry, dark chocolate, balsamic notes and a touch of vanilla.  Some  food suggestion include pasta with  duck ragu, roasts, grilled meats, spit-roasted liver wrapped in bay leaves and middle to aged sheep’s milk cheese. $44

Vino Noble di Montepulciano 2020 Boscarelli made from 85% Sangiovese and 15% Canaiolo. Alluvial and sandy lime soil with a good percentage of silt, clay and stony structure that varies between layers according to altitude. There are about 6,500 vines per hectare. Vineyards are at least 10 years old. The grapes are picked manually and transported in crates. After de-stemming and soft pressing, they are fermented in oak vats filled to no more than two-thirds of their capacity. Indigenous yeast is used in the fermentation process that lasts about a week at controlled temperatures from 28 to 30 degrees. Short manual re-passing of the must and pomace is completed in the initial phase. Pumping continues, where possible, for another 5 to 8 days after fermentation. This wine is aged in Allier or Slavonian oak casks of capacity ranging from 5 to 35 hectoliters. This wine is aged in Allier or Slavonian oak casks of capacity ranging from 5 to 35 hectoliters, where malolactic fermentation occurs. Maturation takes from 18 to 24 months. Before release, the wine ages in the bottle for several months.  Food pairing suggestions:  grilled roasted or braised red meat, game and seasoned cheese. The wine has hints of strawberry, violets, sage and a note of blueberry. Drink within 8 years.  I have always been a fan of this winery. $43

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020 DEI Made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. The soil is mostly clay with sand (tuff) and the vineyard is at 300 meters. There is a soft pressing of the grapes followed by spontaneous fermentation with the use of indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Maturation on the skins for 15/25 days with pumping over. Aging is for at least 24 months of which a minimum of 18 months is in wood. The wine remains in bottle for some time before release. The wine has hints of cherry, plum and violets with a hint of coffee and a touch of vanilla. The winery suggested serving it with braised beef cheek with mashed potatoes. I visited the winery a number of years ago.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020 “Alboreto” Talosa made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is at 350/400 meters the exposure is south/west and the training system is spurred cordon. There is a manual selection of the grapes from the last week of September to the first week of October. After a careful selection of grapes, the fermentation time is about 15-20 days at controlled temperatures in cone-shaped stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. Then malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The maturation is for 2 years in tonneaux of 2nd, 3rd and 4th passage and big barrels and stainless steel for another 2 months. The finished wine continues to be aged in bottle before release. This is an easy drinking wine with hints of plum, blackberries, a touch of strawberry and a hint of pepper. The wine will last for 10 years or so but could be enjoyed sooner.  Drink with pici pasta with Tuscan ragu.  $40

Salchetto “Nobile” 2018 made from 100% Prugnolo Gentile on 15 hectares. Each plant makes one bottle. Manual harvest, sulfite free vinification with native yeasts takes place.  The wine ages for 18 months, 70% in bottle and 30% in tonneau. Then 6 months in bottle before release. The winery is organic certified. The wine will age for at least 10 years. This is a full bodied wine that has hints of cedar, tea, nuts, red forest fruit with balsamic nuances and a touch of violets.  The winery is organic. $62

I look forward to more information on the 12 UGAs and writing about more of the excellent wines.

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ASTI SPUMANTE AND MOSCATO D’ASTI MEET JAPANESE FOOD

Asti Spumante and  Moscato d’Asti, two sparklers from the Piedmont region of Italy, are typically paired with desserts such as fruit, pastries and especially at the holidays, cakes such as panettone and pandoro.  I was intrigued by the opportunity to try these wines with Japanese food at Zuma, a Japanese restaurant at 261 Madison Ave, New York, NY.

Giacomo Pondini, Director of Consorzio Asti DOCG was the speaker. He explained in great detail both Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, and the difference between them. It was a very interesting and informative talk.

Asti Spumante DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG come from the Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) strain of grapes.  It is one of the oldest known varieties of wine grapes and grows in the Piedmont regions of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato. The zone is located between the Ligurian Coast and the Alps.

Moscato d’Asti is made from the same grape as Asti Spumante and has many of the same flavors and aromas. It is also low in alcohol, around 5% by volume. The difference is that Moscato d’Asti is only slightly sparkling (Frizzante) and it is vintage dated, while Asti Spumante is not dated and is considered a Spumante. Moscato d’Asti should be drunk as close to the vintage date as possible. The two wines share the same DOCG.

For Asti Spumante the grapes are refrigerated at zero degrees until they reach a second fermentation, a process that can be accomplished either according to the “Martinotti Method” or  the complex “Classico Method.” Recently, the range of residual sugars has been expanded from traditional sweet to extra dry, from brut to pas dosé. Asti Spumante is known worldwide as a sparkling wine to be drunk every time there is a reason to celebrate.

There were 9 dishes altogether and they were all excellent. I have listed some of them below. The  pairings were with dry and sweet Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti.

Beef skewer with shishito pepper and smoked chili soy

For Moscato d’Asti, there is a gentle pressing of the grape bunches by a pneumatic press. The must is clarified in order to eliminate the solid residue and any other undesired components it may contain. Alcoholic fermentation takes place through the addition of select yeasts at a controlled temperature.  The limpid and cooled must is poured into large tanks and repeatedly filtered to prevent spontaneous fermentation. Moscato d’Asti does not go through a second fermentation in the bottle.  Instead, the second fermentation is performed in a single tank (autoclave) using the Martinotti method, in which bubbles are trapped in the wine via carbonation in the tank. Yeasts are eliminated by filtration or centrifugation. The wine is then kept in cooling tanks at about -3C so that fermentation does not start.  At the time of bottling, the temperature is raised until fermentation begins.  It is stopped at about 5% alcohol. Fermentation can be stopped and then started so that the wine can be bottled several times a year. This aromatic wine should be enjoyed young when it is at its freshest.

Chef’s sashimi and maki selection

Both Moscato d’Asti and Asti Spumante have aromas of apricot, pear, peach, honeysuckle, mandarin orange, jasmine and white flowers.

Arione Asti Dry Secco made from 100% Moscato White.Canelli grapes The Extra Dry Asti DOCG by Arione is an innovative wine, giving a new style to ASTI DOCG.  It is an extra dry sparkling wine, dryer and less sweet than the traditional Asti DOCG. A new concept and a new taste for a wine that shaped the history of Langhe and Monferrato territory, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Alcohol12.5. It has a typical delicate muscat aroma and was by far the “driest” wine tasted and the one that went the best with most of the food.

Tre Secoli Asti Extra Dry made from 100% Moscato. 11.5 % alcohol and 16.0 residual sugar. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, peach and pear with notes of vanilla and ripe fruit.

Tenuta il Falchetto Tenuta del Fant Canelli 2023 made from 100% Moscato from vineyards located in Santo Stefano-Calosso with soil of limestone and sandstone marls. Manual Harvest. The wine has hints of white flowers, citrus fruit and sage.

Cascina Galletto Moscato d’Asti 2023 made from the Moscato Bianco Canelli grape from the Cascina Galleto vineyards at 400 meters. The manual harvest is from the end of August  to the first week of September. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, pear, apple and orange blossom.

Gianni Doglia “La Giostra” Moscato d’Asti 2023 made from 100% White Moscato. The soil is limestone – clay. Practicing Organic. Manual harvest. Alcohol is 5%. The wine is fruity with hints of ripe apricots, pears, white flowers and a note of sage.

Yellow tail sashimi green chili relish, ponzu, pickled garlic

Contratto de Miranda Metodo Classico 2017 Made from 100% Moscato grapes. It is produced using the Metodo Classico, or traditional method, which involves a second fermentation in the bottle, giving it a fine and persistent perlage (bubbles). The wine exhibits a complex aromatic profile with notes of dried fruit, pastry, citrus, mango and subtle notes of bread crust due to aging on the lees.

Cocchi Asti Spumante made from 100%  White Moscato. The colors of the flags of the medieval festival “Palio di Asti” are paraded on this bottle that Giulio Cocchi produces with more than one hundred years of experience.  The wine has the aromatic fragrance of the Moscato grape, a rich and intense aroma with a fruity taste of wisteria, acacia and honey. It features a well-balanced sweetness and a low alcohol content 7%

Black cod marinated in sakyo miso wrapped in hoba leaf

Ca’dgal Vite Vecchia Moscato d’Asti 2014  The grapes come from three plots of land situated in the Valdivilla Hills. They are combined to create a one-hectare vineyard, planted with an old clone of the white Canelli Moscato, which is now 60 years old. The earth is light and whitish and the higher percentage of limestone. Since 2003 the 1,300 bottles are kept each year and only placed on the market in September of the fifth year after the harvest. The wine has hints of ripe mango, apricot and lychee.

Matteo Soria Moscato d’Asti 2013 made from Moscato Bianco à Petits. In the middle between Brut and Extra Dry and leaning to the dry side. The wine has hints of apricot, orange and peach with a note of honey and a touch of orange blossoms.

I enjoyed this opportunity to expand my knowledge of these two classic wines and experiment with tasting them in combination with Japanese dishes.  It was a very successful tasting.

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Tasting Prosecco DOC in the Dark

The invitation said, “To kick-off Prosecco DOC’s National Prosecco Week celebrations (June 2nd – June 8th), we are pleased to invite you to a cross-sensory tasting experience led by Dr. Hoby Wedler to explore the nuances of Prosecco DOC.”  All of the tasters were asked to wear blindfolds — it was a tasting in the dark.

The speaker was Dr. Hoby Wedler, who has been blind since birth. He is a chemist, entrepreneur and sensory expert. In 2011 he developed Tasting in the Dark in collaboration with Francis Ford Coppola. The tasting was held at Il Gattopardo Restaurant in NYC.

Dr. Wedler spoke about Prosecco

Dr. Wedler said that Prosecco is the leading selling sparkling wine in Italy today. It outsells Champagne in the UK, and sales of Prosecco increase every year in the United States.  Prosecco is produced exclusively in the area of northeast Italy between the Dolomites and the Adriatic Sea. The production takes place in two regions, the Veneto and Friuli Venezia-Giulia in 9 provinces.

Prosecco must be made from at least 85% Glera grapes and must be produced within the DOC and DOCG regions of Northeast Italy. Most prosecco is produced by the Charmart Method (Closed Tank Fermentation) where the secondary fermentation occurs in a closed pressurized tank (autoclave).  Prosecco can range from Brut Nature (zero dosage) to Extra Dry, and even sweeter styles like Demi-Sec. Minimum alcohol content is 10.5% for Bianco, 11.0% for Spumante and Spumante Rose. Since 2020, the DOC rules allow for Prosecco Rosé, which must contain Glera blended with 10-15% Pinot Nero.  It has a minimum period of 60 days of aging before it can be released. 

Dr. Wedler continued.  “During this tasting, many types of Prosecco DOC will be analyzed in conjunction with a custom Multi-Sensory Kit developed by Emotitech designed especially for this experience. The kit will allow guests to engage their tactile and olfactory senses in a way that will help them to have a deeper understanding of Prosecco DOC’s distinctive qualities.”

Then Dr. Wedler had us put on blindfolds so we were completely in the dark. We knew the positions of the wines and he led us through the tasting. There were no distractions, no cell phones, no talking, no looking around, just his voice speaking about the wines and asking questions.   It was a unique experience.

The Prosecco

Antonio Facchin & Figli  Prosecco DOC Treviso Frizzante (Sparkling Prosecco DOC Treviso rope cork) made from 100% Glera from the Trevigian Foothills. The grapes are refrigerated before pressing at a low temperature and then fermentation takes place. Secondary fermentation by the Charmat method for 60 days. Static sedimentation and several rackings before  the wine is bottled. Wine remains in the bottle for at least 30 days before release. Residual sugar is 12.50 g/l and the alcohol is 11.5. The wine has hints of pear, green apple, white peach and a touch of melon. It is Frizzante and contains less carbon dioxide than Spumante and therefore has less bubbles. 

Ca’ Furlan Cuvée Mariana’ Prosecco DOC Rosé Brut 2023 made from 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Noir from an 1,800 acre vineyard at 0-80 meters. Training system is mainly Sylvoz alternatively Doppia Cortina and the average age of the vines are 10 to 15 years. There is a gentle pressing of clusters with membrane presses, immediate skin separation and static cold-setting for clear must. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in controlled temperature tanks at low temperatures, utilizing cultured yeasts. Residual Sugar 11g/l. The wine has hints of fresh cherry, strawberry, a touch of rose petal and a hint of raspberry.RuggeriArgeo’ Prosecco DOC Treviso Brut  made from a minimum of 85 % Glera and other local white grape varieties up to 15% from the hillsides of the first slopes of the Dolomite mountains in the extreme north of the Province of Treviso. Vinification is off the skins at a controlled temperature of 18C for about 8 days followed by a slow second fermentation in large sealed vats at 14-15 C . Residual sugar 12g/l/ Alcohol 11%. The wine has hints of white flowers, golden apples, white peach, a note of lemon and crisp acidity.La Gioiosa Prosecco DOC Brut The training system is single espalier, double canopy and radiating systems.  Harvest is the second 10 days in September. Whole grapes are put into the pneumatic press for soft pressing and the resulting must, after a first racking, is put into controlled temperature tanks where it remains until it is used for the production of the sparkling wine. In the second fermentation the must with added cultures in then put into the vessels where fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature. Upon reaching the required alcohol and sugar content fermentation is stopped by refrigeration. After a short settling period the sparkling wine is ready for bottling. Residual sugar 12m g/l and 11% alcohol. The wine is fruity and flowery with hints of golden apple, citrus and white peach and a touch of green tea.

Fantinel Prosecco DOC Extra Dry made from 100% Glera. Harvest is at the beginning of September and vinification is by the Charmat method. Alcohol 11.5 %. Floral and citrus notes with hints of apples and pears and nice minerality.

Perlino Prosecco DOC Rosé Extra Dry 2023 made from 90% Glera and 10% Pinot Noir.  The grapes are pressed and then there is a separation of the must from the skins within 48 hours. The temperature controlled second fermentation is at 18 to 19 C (natural fermentation in sealed tanks, which leads to the formation of carbon dioxide, enhancing the aromatic and fruity notes), facilitated by selected yeasts and subsequent aging on the fermentation yeasts for at least 60 days. The residual sugar is 15 gr/l and the alcohol is 11%. This is a fresh fruity sparking wine with hints of strawberry, raspberry and peach with touch of lemon and a note of white flowers.

Tasting these wines blind really made me focus on the qualities and flavors I was experiencing.  I’m happy to say that I did not knock over any wineglasses as I made my way through the tasting.

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The Vitiarium Collection from San Felice

San Felice is located  in the heart of the Chianti Classical zone and a few miles from Castel Berardenga and Siena.

I have been drinking and enjoying the wines a San Felice for a many years. Owned by the Grisaldi del Taja family from 1700 to 1968, the estate was acquired by the Allianza Group in the 1970’s, Today it spans about 685 hectares across  Tuscany’s prestigious wine producing  areas: Chianti Classico Montalcino and Bolgheri. The estate is home to the Vitiarium Collection and the Borgo San Felice Relais & Chareau.

Recently, I was introduced to their new line of wines called the Vitiarium Collection. The collection includes Borgo Chianti Classico DOCG, Pugnitello Toscana IGT, In Avane Toscana IGT (a white wine), and La Pieve Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione—each an authentic expression of a land where tradition and innovation meet. These four wines of the Vitiarium line are the result of over twenty years of research and innovation dedicated to rediscovering native grape varieties through the experimental project in the Vitiarium vineyard. These labels share a common purpose: to tell the story of an historic winemaking estate, the very place where, in 1968, Vigorello—the first of the Supertuscans—was introduced to the world. In both 2001 and 2022 San Felice obtained Equalitas — Standard SOPD Sustainable Organization (SO) certification recognizing their commitment to sustainability.

The Vitiarium Collection

In Avane Chardonnay Toscana 2022 made from mostly Chardonnay from San Felice (Castelnuovo Berardenga, Siena).  In Avane, from “Avenal” the Etruscan name of the area, encloses a trace of the ancient culture present in the territory of San Felice. The soil is of medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl, breakdown of alberese and galestro limestones and the training system is spur-pruned cordon. Harvest takes place by hand the first week of September in the early morning hours.  Maceration at a temperature of 8° C. Fermentation predominantly in steel and partly in oak barrels. Bottle aging for a few months before release. The wine has hints of citrus, white flowers, peach, pear, with a note of acacia and a touch of melon. $33

Borgo Chianti Classico 2022 DOCG made from Sangiovese and Pugnitello. The vineyard is located Castlenuovo Berardenga.   Soil is medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of galestro limestones, with a abundant gravel-pebble mix. The training system is cordoned speronato and guyot. Harvest is the third week September to the first week of October. Vinification is in stainless steel for 2 weeks separately for each variety. Aging for approximately 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. The wine has hints of black fruit, blackberries, blueberries, black cherry and plum. $33

Pugnitello Tuscan IGT 2021 made from 100% Pugnitello. Pugnitello is an ancient Tuscan native grape variety whose name means little fist, because of the shape of the clusters.  Following its rediscovery, it has been researched, in collaboration with the universities of Florence and Pisa, in San Felice’s experimental vineyard. The wine is the fruit of 20 years of study and experimentation focused on saving native Tuscan grapes from extinction. The vineyard is located Castlenuovo Berardenga (Siena).  Soil is medium-textured, predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of galestro limestones, with an abundant gravel-pebble mix. The training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the first week of October. There is a 20-25 day fermentation on the skins at 30C, followed by malolactic fermentation. Aging of the wine is in 225-liter French oak barriques for 18 to 20 months and 8 months in the bottle before release. This is a full bodied concentrated wine  with hints of wild fruit preserves of black and red fruit, blackcurrants, cherries, cinnamon, clove,  a touch of tobacco and a hint of spice. This is a wine that will age. $69

The 2021 vintage produced high-quality and healthy grapes

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from the finest company vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro.  The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September.  Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28–30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied wine with hints of violet, black currents and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico.  This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $50

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