Category Archives: Valpolicella Ripasso

October 5, 2023 · 2:46 am

Le Guaite–the Wines of Noemi

While I was in the Veneto recently, I was introduced  to the dynamic Noemi Pizzighella of Le Guaite di Noemi winery in Valoplicella.

When Noemi was a baby her parents would give her a few drops of Recioto wine and it would always make her happy.  Today, Noemi is the winemaker for her family’s winery.

The Winery

Noemi told me that 20 years ago, her father Stefano bought a small crusher and a few acres of olive groves on the hillside of Mezzane di Sotto. This is a hill which benefits from the microclimate of Lake Garda and the northern Alpine currents which create the thermal shock important for the inimitable character of the grapes.

Production of wine began in 2002 with the purchase of 10 acres of vineyards, including Le Guaite, situated on the highest part of the hill.

Noemi said she began helping her mother and father in the vineyards as well as the cellar when she was 8 years old.

In 2016 after years of daily work in the winery she took over the responsibility of running it, in part to relieve her parents of some of the never-ending work. At the same time the wines were getting excellent reviews and she wanted to open up the international market. She pointed out that her vineyards are situated next to those of the famous Romano Del Forno.

Noemi said she ages her wines longer than most, to give them their distinctive character, powerful structure and impressive elegance.

The Wines

IGT Rosso Veronese “Tono” made from 35% Corvinone, 35% Corvina, 20% Rondinello and 10% Oseleto and the vines are 15/40 years old at 350/400 meters with a 15/20 slope. The soil is white and pink limestone with basalt rock.  There are 5,000 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. The farming method is sustainable agriculture. Fermentation is in stainless steel. Aging takes place in stainless steel for 18/20 months and then in bottle for another 12 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, plum, and a touch of violets. Noemi said aromas of mint and eucalyptus are characteristic of her wine. $19

Valpolicella Superiore DOC 33% Corvina, 33% Rondinello and 34% Corvinone. Training system is guyot except for one hectare which has 40 year old vines and is pergola pruned. The grapes are dried for 30 to 40 days followed by fermentation in stainless steel. Aging takes place in second passage French oak for 15 months and then for another 6 months in stainless steel. The wine remains in the bottle for 3 years before release. The wine has hints of ripe red and black fruit, black cherry and plum with a touch of spice, a note of vanilla and coffee. Current vintage is 2013. $33

Valpolicella Ripasso DOC made from 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. Training system is guyot except for one hectare which is of 40 year old vines which is pergola pruned. The grapes are dried for 30/40 days followed by fermentation in stainless steel on grape skins left from making Amarone. The wine is aged is second passage French oak for 30 months and then 6 months in stainless steel. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 years before release. The wine has hints of red cherry, blueberries, and blackberries with a hint of vanilla and a touch of pepper. $39

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG  made from 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. Training system is guyot except for one hectare with 40 year old vines which is pergola pruned. The grapes are dried for 4 months and then fermented in stainless steel during the month of January. The wine is aged in new French oak barriques for 3 years then for 6 months in stainless steel.Then the wine is aged for 4 years in bottle before release. The wine has hints of black plum, blackberries, ripe red cherries, balsamic notes, pepper and a touch of vanilla. The current vintage is 2012. $65

Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG made from 35% Corvina, 35% Rondinella and 30% Corvinone. The grapes are dried for 6 months followed by fermentation in stainless steel. Fermentation is stopped when the wine reaches 13.5% alcohol. Aging is in new French oak barrels for 3 years and then 6 months in stainless steel. The wine is released after being in the bottle for 3 years. This is an intense  wine with rich fruit aromas of raisins, black cherry, black plums and blackberries. $73

Tisbe IGT made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyard at 450/500 meters. The soil is limestone with white calcareous rock, pink ferrous calcareous rock, basaltic rock containing minerals, olivine and pyroxene and volcanic soil. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is in the beginning of October. The grapes are dried  for 3 months and 2 weeks, then the grapes are destemmed, pressed and under go cryomaceration. Fermentation is with cultured yeasts with simultaneous malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in French oak barriques for about 36 months and another 16 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberries, blueberries, black plum and chocolate with a hint of coffee and a touch of tobacco. Alcohol is 17% The current vintage is 2017. $83

Solitario IGT made from 35% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 35% Corvinone and 10% Oseletta and Corvinone. The wine is aged in new French barriques for about 54 months  and in bottle for 30 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, black plum, pepper and a balsamic note. Alcohol 17% % $145

The Olive Oil

In addition to the 10 acres of vineyards they also have 7 acres of olive groves with such old varieties as Grignano, Leccio del Corno and Casaliva which are used to make an excellent olive oil.  All of the olives are treated and gathered by hand.

Meeting Noemi and tasting her wines was one of the highlights of my visit to the Veneto.

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Filed under Amarone, Le Guaite di Nomei, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso

August 24, 2023 · 1:40 am

The Fantastic Wines of Terre di Leone

I visited the Veneto with wine publicist Federica Schir who brought me to visit one of her clients in Valpolicella.  I was unfamiliar with the wine or the winery but Federica said that the wines were fantastic.  She added that the owners were devoted to making traditional classic wine.  She really got my interest!

At the winery we were met by Chiara Turati, co-owner of the winery with her husband, Federico Pellizzari.

Chiara told me that when she first arrived in Valpolicella  she fell in love with the area and decided to live there. She also fell in love with Federico Pellizzari, a native of Marano, and they soon married. Federico’s grandfather, Leone, owned some land in the area and the couple decided that they wanted to make wine. They did not have any experience in winemaking so they began  learning everything they could about creating a winery and making wine. They decided to name the winery Leone in honor of Federico’s grandfather. The winery is built on different levels so the cellar would work on the principle of gravity. They began work in 1996 but did not complete the winery until 2005 when they produced their first wine.  It was released in 2009.

The winery is in Marano, part of the Valpolicella Classical zone not far from Verona. There are 7 hectares of vineyards. The soil is predominantly volcanic basalt with some chalky deposits and  terraced with dry-stone walls (marogne) typical of  Valpolicella. There is no artificial irrigation system.  Chiara said their training system is guyot which is unusual for Valpolicella where the pergola method rules. Because of the high altitude (430 meters) and the breeze that comes down the Valgatara Valley she feels they have a unique microclimate. The harvest is manual.

Re Pazzo (Crazy King) line

Valpolicella Classico 2022 made from 40% Corvina, 20% Corivinone 25% Rondinella, 10% Molinara and 5% Oseleta from vineyards located close to the villages of Marano di Valpolicella and Fumane within the Valpolicella Classico appellation. The vineyards are are at 430 meters on slopes and the exposure is south and southeasterly. The grapes are harvested late in the season manually and placed in plastic containers. The grapes are destemmed, not pressed. The must is left to macerate at a low temperature for 9 days before starting the fermentation process at a low temperature. The wine is aged in stainless steel vats for 5 months. After bottling the wine is aged in the cellar at a constant temperature for at least 2 months before release.  This is an easy to drink Valpolicella that reminds me of the traditional ones I drank long ago while visiting Lake Garda. $18

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2020. The Ripasso method of making wine is particular to the Valpolicella region. It involves pouring the Valpolicella Classico Superior onto the grape skins of the Amarone which are left in the vinifier when the Amarone has been racked off. These skins already contain sugar.  Additional yeast is added to start a second fermentation which enriches the wine with structure and aromas. The wine is aged in 5 hl French tonneaux and 10hl French oak casks for about 12 months. After the wine is bottled it remains in the cellar at a constant temperature for at least 3 month before release. This is traditional Ripasso going back to the time before they added the “dried” grapes. $19

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico  2017 made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. The grapes are harvested manually and placed in crates holding 5kg of fruit. The grapes are then stored in a fruit drying loft called a fruttaio for 110 days to dry the grapes (apassimento). This reduces the water content and increases the concentration of flavors and aromas.  The dried grapes are destemmed. Cold fermentation takes place in steel tanks for 7 to 9 days before temperature controlled fermentation begins. Then the grapes are delicately pressed. The wine is aged in 10hl and 25hl French oak casks for about 40 months and in bottle for 8 months before release. Very traditional Amarone that tastes like an Amarone and not like a Recioto.  $47

 

Terre di Leone line. This is a classic line of elegant balanced wines.

Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore  2017. The grapes are harvested manually and placed in crates holding 5kg of fruit. The grapes are then stored in a fruit drying loft for 100 days to dry the grapes.  The dried grapes are destemmed, not pressed. They undergo cold fermentation in steel tanks for 12 days before temperature controlled fermentation. The wine is aged in 5 hl French oak tonneaux and 10 liter French oak casks for about 50 months. After the wine is bottled it remains in the cellar for at least 6 months before release. $38

Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Classico Superiore 2018 The wine is aged in 10hl French oak tonneaux for about 40 months and in bottle for another 6 months before release.  $33

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva 2012 made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. The grapes remain in the drying loft for 110 days to dry. The wine is aged 25hl French oak casks for about 96 months and a least  12 months in barrel before release. 7,444 bottles produced all individually numbered. $71. This may be the best Amarone I have ever tasted.

Something different

Dedicatum Veronese IGT Rosso 2018 The blend changes from year to year and can include approximately 14 different grape varieties that are recommended and authorized by the current production regulations. The grapes are dried in the fruttaio for 80 days. The grapes are destemmed not pressed and undergo cold maceration in steel tanks for approximately 8 days before temperature controlled fermentation. Aging is in 10hl French oak for about 42 months. After bottling the wine is aged in the cellar for at least 12 months  before release. 3,400 individual numbered bottles were released. $33

 When I tasted the Re Pazzo line I was very impressed with the wines. When I tasted the Terre di Leone wines I was even more impressed. These wines may be the finest line of wines I have ever tasted from the Valpolicella Classico zone. I did not list the aromas and flavors of the wines because mere words would not do them justice.  Frederica used the word “fantastic” to describe them, and I couldn’t agree with her more!

They do not have an importer for New York and most of the U.S

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Filed under Amarone, Terre di Leone, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso

November 23, 2018 · 6:09 am

Giusti Wines of the Veneto

In my last blog I wrote about the “KIN” the Erbaluce di Caluso of  Domenico Tappero Merlo – Vignaiolo in Canavese

The other winery at the lunch and tasting at Del Posto NYC organized by Michael Roman of Romano Brands was Societa Agricola Giusti Col, better know as Giusti Wines of the Veneto. The winery was founded in 2002. The center of the operation and the main office is located in Nervesa della Battaglia, a rural village in the province of Treviso.

Valentino

At lunch I was sitting next to Valentino Radaelli the Junior Export Manager.   He is a very knowledge and interesting young man. We not only discussed the Giusti wines but Italian wine in general and it was a pleasure speaking with him.

Prosecco DOC NV “Rosalia”  NV made from 100% Glera grapes from the “Rosalia” estate. The soil is of medium texture and the training system is sylvoz.  There are 3,550 to 4,000 plants per hectare. Fermentation takes place without the skins. Primary fermentation is with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature and secondary fermentation is at a low temperature in pressurized tanks. This is a fruity Prosecco with ripe fruit aromas and flavors and more than a touch of  sweetness.

Asolo Prosecco Superiore ”Extra Dry” NV DOCG 100% Glera grapes. The soil is red clayey and the training system is sylvoz and guyot. There are 3,500 to 4,500 vines per hectare. Fermentation is off the skins. The primary fermentation takes place with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature and the secondary fermentation is at a low temperature in pressurized tanks. This Prosecco has hints of apple, floral notes and a touch of lemon.

I asked Valentino if the Rosalia had more residual sugar than the Asolo. He said no, they were both extra dry but the grapes for the Rosalia were grown on the plain (the lowlands of the Piave Basin) while the grapes for the Asolo were grown on the hillside.

Extra Dry Prosecco can have between 12% and 17% residual sugar and my guess is that because the Rosalia comes from grapes grown on the plain it was closer to 17%  making it taste “sweeter.” The residual sugar for both is 15 g/l plus or minus 2. So the Rosalia would be plus 2=17 g/l and the Asolo would be -2 or 13.g/l accounting for the difference in taste. The Asolo would go better with food while the Rosalia would work by itself or with dessert.

Giusti owns almost 25% of the land in the designated Prosecco DOCG zone.

Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC 2017 “Longheri” 100% Pinot Grigio from vineyards located in the Montello and Asolo hills and specifically from the vineyard Longheri which is part of the Rolando estate. Medium mixed soil. There are 4,000 to 4,500 vines per hectare and the training system is sylvoz and guyot. Fermentation is off the skins with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature. After fermentation the wine is kept in contact with the yeast for a long period and periodically stirred until it is bottled. This is a fruity wine with hints of pear and a touch of apple.

The wine has nice citrus aromas and flavors with hints of pear and a touch of banana.

Chardonnay Delle Venezie IGT 2017 “Dei Carni” 100% Chardonnay from the Dei Carni vineyard which is part of the Rolando estate. Vine training and fermentation like the Pinot Grigio. This is fruity and flowery with citrus notes.

Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiori 2016 DOC made from Corvina Veronese, Corvinone and Rondinella. The production zone is the hilly area of Valploicella at 100 to 150 meters. The soil is calcareous and volcanic and there are about 4,000 vines per hectare. The vines are trained by the Pergola Veronese system. The wine is aged in oak casks for about 12 months.

I asked Valentino if they dried the grapes for the Ripasso as many producers now do. He said no and then explained the process. After the wine for the Amarone is removed from the stainless steel vats, what remains in the vats is the skins. The fresh Valpolicello Classico is then poured into the vats taking on additional flavor and body from the Amarone skins. This Ripasso was one of the best I ever tasted with aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries  and a touch of prune. It is a very good food wine.

Amarone Della Valpoicella Classico 2016 DOCG made from Corvina Veronese, Corvinone and Rondinella. The production zone is the hills of the Valoplicella Classical area at an attitude of 120 t0 200 meters. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the training system is the Pergola Veronese. Valentino said the grapes are picked a bit late to ensure ripeness and left to dry for about 120 days. They lose 30% to 40% of their weight and become raisin-like. This produces a wine which is very concentrated with a high sugar content and 15% alcohol. The wine is aged is 500 liter French oak barrels for 24 to 28 months. This is a full-bodied wine with hints of raisins, plums, cherries, figs and a touch of molasses. The wine will age for a number of years. Unlike many amarones, this is a food friendly wine.

The Amarone was a perfect combination with the steak.

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September 25, 2017 · 4:53 am

On Amarone, Bardolino, Valpolicella & Colli Euganei

Master Class on the red wines of the Veneto conducted by Kerin O’Keef

Kerin O’Keefe

As with the Master Class on white wines that I wrote about last week,   https://charlesscicolone.life/2017/09/21/touring-the-veneto-with-vignaioli-veneti/    Kerin felt that these reds were examples of the diversity of wines made by the member wineries of Vignaioli Veneti and in the Veneto in general. The wines were divided into two flights.

1st Fligh

La Fraghe Bardolino 2016 made from Corvina and Rondinella vinified separately. Maceration lasts for 7 to 8 days and coincides with the fermentation period. The cap is managed daily, with a délestage in the morning and a pump over in the evening. Malolactic fermentation usually occurs in the following month. The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks for 3 months.

Brigaldara Valpolicella Superiore “Case Vecie” 2015 made from 40% Corvina, 40% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella. The must is left in contact with the grapes during the whole fermentation process. Pumping over is carried out twice a day and délestage is carried out half way through the fermentation process. The wine is aged in 25HL Slavonian oak for 1 year.
In response to a question about Rondinella, Kerin said that one of the reasons it is used in the blend is because it is resistant to mold.

La Fontanina Valpolicella Valpantena Ripasso Superiore DOC 2015 made from 60% Corvina and 40% Rondinella. Parts of the grapes harvested are immediately pressed while some are placed in wooden boxes for a light drying period of 15 to 20 days. Key lots of grapes are vinified separately for fermentation: partially in stainless steel tanks while the semi-dried grapes go into wooden barrels. The wine is aged for 10 to 12 months in tank and 5 to 6 months in bottle before release.

Ottella Valpolicella Ripasso “Ripa Della Volta” 2014 made from 70% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, and 10% Oseleta, Spigamonte, Corvina and Turchetta. Fermentation in temperature controlled steel vats and the “wine” is passed over the Amarone marc for about 10 days. The wine is aged in 25 HL Slavonian oak barrels and French barriques for about 2 years. Michele Montresor, President of Vignaioli Veneti, owns this winery. 

Monte del Fra Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG “ Lena di Mezzo” 2013 made from 80% Corvina and 20% Rondinella. The grapes are picked just after they start to dry on the vine. The grapes are then dried for 90 to 120/130 days until the sugar in the grapes reaches at least 28% to 30%. Gentle crushing and destemming of the grapes, depending on the vintage, between the end of January and late February. Fermentation is in small, temperature-controlled truncated cone-shaped stainless steel vats and is started by indigenous yeasts. The fermentation is a slow one, with long maceration on the skins.

Pergola Trentina

Kerin pointed out that most producers kept the old training system, the pergola (pergola Trentina, pergola Veronese and Pergoletta, which protect the grapes from getting too much sun and has a high yield) and for new plantings used the guyot training system. A few producers still use the pergola system for all their vines. Using both systems protect the final product if the weather is too cool or too hot.

2nd Flight
Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2013 made from 45% Corvina Veronese 45% Corvinone, 5% Riondinella and 5% Oseleta. Grapes are hand harvested in September. The grapes are naturally dried for 3 to 4 months in the drying facility. The grapes lose 40% to 50% of their original weight. Destemming and soft pressing takes place in January and fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks at 46 to 72 degrees F. Fermentation lasts for 25 days with periodic pumping over. The wine is aged in oak for 18 months, and then blended together for 7 months.

Nicolis Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico 2011 made from 65% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara and 10% Croatina. The grapes are placed in special dry, well-aired rooms, to dry naturally, then the semi-dried grapes are softly pressed. Due to the low temperature, the fermentation process is long and slow. Maceration takes over a month. The wine is then aged in medium sized Slavonian oak casks, where it continues to ferment and where it remains for about 30 months. At least 8 months in bottle before release. Kerin said that 2011 was a very hot vintage but this wine is very well balanced.

Kerin pointed out that even though Molinara is longer mandatory in the blend it is still used by some producers.

Secondo Marco Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2011 made from 45% Corvina, 45% Corvinone and 10% Rondinella. The training method is Pergoletta. There is a long natural drying process for around 120 days and the weight loss is 50%. Prolonged pre-and post-fermentation maceration, indigenous yeast, malolactic fermentation and fining in concrete vats. Then long aging in wood and long maturation in bottle before release.

These last two wines were a pleasant surprise for the journalists and many of them said that they reminded them of old style Bordeaux.

Le Volpe Colli Euganei Rosso 24 Mesi DOC “Le Volpe” 2011 made from 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. After traditional fermentation, the wine is aged in French oak barrels and casks.
Vignalta Colli Euganei Rosso DOC “Gemola” 2011 made from 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. There is 20 days of fermentation and maceration in stainless steel tanks. Pumping over 4 times a day at a controlled temperature of 27/28 degrees C. The wine is aged in new French oak barrels for at least 12 months.

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