Category Archives: Amarone

Lunch with Doctor Wine at Checchino del 1887

One of my favorite restaurants in Rome is Checchino del 1887 and Michele and I have been going there for over 40 years. The slaughterhouses of Rome used to be located nearby in Testaccio, and the restaurant still specializes in the innards and other spare parts, called the quinto quarto, which the poor people of Rome used to eat.

This time we went with Daniele Cernilli (aka Doctor Wine) and his wife Marina Thompson.  Daniele is Italy’s foremost wine critic and both he and Marina are old friends.  Daniele has been going to Checchino even longer than I have.

The Essential Guide to Italian Wine 2025

Daniele’s book is my go-to reference book for Italian wines since, as Daniele said, “All the wines worth drinking are in the pages of this guide.”  Both Italian and English versions of the book are available. https://www.doctorwine.wine/prodotto/the-essential-guide-to-italian-wine-2025/?lang=en

The wines for our lunch were brought by Daniele.  We started with a Spumante.

Giu Inte Concarena made from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir Concarena from a single vineyard.  Zero dosage-there is no additional sugar or liqueur added after the second fermentation. The wine spent 26 months on the lees and was disgorged in March 2024. Organic certification both in the vineyard and in the winery since 2002. I was unfamiliar with the winery so I asked Daniele to tell me about it. He said it is located in Capo di Ponte in Valcamonica in Lombardy, a place famous for its prehistoric rock carvings, but for some years also for the production of wine, Riesling Renano in particular. A vertical valley, exposed to the north winds but sheltered enough to offer an ideal home to vines like those that love temperature variations.  Concarena is a small company with totally sustainable production. Photovoltaic energy, no fertilization and all manual work. In winter the sheep graze among the vineyards and in September nomadic beekeepers are hosted. This is an elegant spumante with citrus fruit, a touch of spice and a hint of strawberry.

Appetizer pastries to enjoy with the spumante

My first course was the Assaggio di Fagioli e Cotiche, pig skin and borlotti beans cooked with tomato. This dish is so good, so intense and so Roman!

Pasta Alla Matriciana —  my favorite and I always have it with bucatini.

Daniele had the pasta with pajata

Michele likes  her Pasta Alla Matriciana with Mezza Manica and I did not take a picture of it.

Trippa alla Romana, tripe Roman style in tomato sauce with grated pecorino.

Marnia had-Lamb chops scottadito

Padellotto della macelleria — mixed grilled innards sauteed with rosemary and garlic for Marina

Recioto Valpolicella Amarone 2009 Bertani 70% Corvina Veronese, 30% Rondinella. Carefully selected grape bunches are hand-harvested in Bertani’s best Valpolicella vineyards in Fumane, Marano and the Novare Valley. Vines are cultivated using the “spalliera” method while pruning is done using the Guyot method with 5.000 vines/ha.

Unlike most leading Amarone producers who buy grapes from outside growers, Bertani’s harvest originates entirely in the firm’s own vineyards. With marly-calcareous soil sheltered by surrounding woodland, these vineyards offer the ideal terroir for Amarone. Harvest begins in early October and extends over a two-week period. After harvest, ripe, unblemished grapes from the uppermost portions of each cluster — those grapes richest in sugar and extracts — are painstakingly detached and laid out to dry on cane mats. The mats are stored on raised platforms in airy lofts, sheltered by a roof but otherwise exposed to drying breezes on all sides. By the time they are ready to undergo maceration and fermentation in February, they will have lost up to 60% of their water content (appassimento). A lengthy maceration period ensues, a factor responsible for Amarone’s tremendous body and structure. After a controlled fermentation, the wine is transferred into oak casks for a period of 5-8 years (the 1961, I believe, spent a longer time in wood) during which it was racked twice annually prior to bottling. Dry, full-bodied, and amply structured with hints of cherries, red berries and spice and a rich aftertaste and long finish, this is a wonderful wine.

Checchino restaurant in Testaccio since 1887 for 6 generations
via di Monte Testaccio, 30 00153 Rome
tel 0039 065743816
email: checchino_roma@tin.it
reservations by sms +39 3335855055

Open from Wednesday to Sunday from 12:30 to 15:00 and from 19:30 to 23:00

Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Weekly day off: Monday and Tuesday

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Filed under Amarone, Bertani, Checchino dal 1887, Daniele Cernilli, Daniele Cernilli Doctor Wine

SIX WINES TO ENJOY

Because I have been unwell, my reporting has been sporadic lately, but I look forward to being back on schedule shortly!  Meanwhile, these are some wines I have recently enjoyed drinking.

Campania Falanghina IGT 2021 De Meo made from 100% Falanghina from Guardia Sanframondi (BN) at 500 meters. The vines were planted in 2005. The exposure is south/east and the soil is clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning.  Manual harvest of select bunches in 15 kg baskets tales place the first week of October.  Cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel for about 3 months and 3 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apple, litchi, dried fruit and thyme with a flowery note. This is an excellent Falanghina $25.00

Chateau d’Estoublon Roseblood Rose 2024 made from 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Cinsault and 5% Rollo.  Soil is clay-limestone red earth, areas of gravel and flint. At 350 – 400m altitude. Direct pressing, cold alcoholic fermentation, vinification and maturation in stainless steel and concrete vats. Aged for several weeks on fine lees. Alcohol 12.5%. This wine offers a mix of strawberry, melon and nectarine flavors with notes of smoke, fresh green herbs and minerals.  Well balanced. $25

Esporāo Reserva  2022 Monte Velho made from Touriga Nacional, Aragon, Syrah and Trincadeira from a careful selection from the various regions of the Alentejo. The soil is granitic/schist and loam/clay. The average age of the vines is 18 years. Mechanical harvesting. After destemming and crushing, alcohol fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature, the grapes are then pressed, then malolactic fermentation. Aging is in oak barrels for  8 months. The wine has hints of wild berries, black plums with slight notes of jam. $12

Chianti Classico Grande Selezione “La Pieve” 2021 San Felice Made from Sangiovese and other native vines from the finest company vineyards. The soil is of medium texture with a predominance of clay of calcareous-marly origin, derived from the disintegration of Alberese and Galestro.  The training system is cordone speronato and guyot. Harvest is the 4th week of September.  Alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, with maceration for 22 days at a temperature of 28– 30°C. Malolactic fermentation and aging in wood for 24 months. Refinement in French oak tonneaux of 500 liters. Bottle aging for 8 months. This is a full bodied  wine with hints of violet, black currents and spice with a touch of tobacco and a hint of licorice. This is a true expression of Chianti Classico and I have been drinking and enjoying the wines of San Felice of a number  of years.  This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $50

Valpolicella Mai Dire Mai DO C Superiore 2015 Pasqua made from 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 10%Rondinella and 10% Oseleta from the Montenegro vineyard. This is a 23 hectare vineyard on a hill at 350 meters between Val d’Illasi and Val di Mezzane, the soil is basalt and calcareous in origin, with optimal mineral content. The grapes are hand-picked with careful selection. Following gentle pressing, fermentation takes place at controlled temperatures between 20-22°C. The next step is aging in French oak 500-liter casks and 225-liter barrels (mainly new or second use) for 18 month. 15% Alcohol. The wine has hints of tobacco, cedar, clove, morello cherry, coffee and balsamic notes. The finish is long with a touch of spice. $55

Amarone Della Valpolicella 2018 Famiglia Pasqua made from 65% Corina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone. The soil is calcareous, clayey and gravely and the vines are about 30 years old. The grapes are harvested by hand in September and laid down to dry in the drying loft for about 3 months where the bunches lose about 25-30% of their weight and substances in the grapes become concreted. After pressing, alcoholic fermentation in steel vats begin, for about 25-30 days at a controlled temperature. Continuous punching down carried out to encourage extraction of color and tannin. The wine is then transferred to French oak barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place and gives softness to the wine. After about 18-20 months of aging, the wine is bottled and aged for another four months. The wine has hints of blueberries, cherries, cocoa, tobacco with spicy notes and a hint of vanilla. There is a persistent aftertaste with a hint of morello cherries. Alcohol 15%. $60

Note: This year marks a century of Pasqua Wines. Founded in 1925, Pasqua has remained a family-owned winery for three generations, dedicated to producing terroir-driven wines that capture the richness of Valpolicella and beyond. I have been enjoying Pasqua wines for the last forty years.

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Filed under Amarone, Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Gran Selectione, Provence, Rose, Uncategorized

Le Guaite–the Wines of Noemi

While I was in the Veneto recently, I was introduced  to the dynamic Noemi Pizzighella of Le Guaite di Noemi winery in Valoplicella.

When Noemi was a baby her parents would give her a few drops of Recioto wine and it would always make her happy.  Today, Noemi is the winemaker for her family’s winery.

The Winery

Noemi told me that 20 years ago, her father Stefano bought a small crusher and a few acres of olive groves on the hillside of Mezzane di Sotto. This is a hill which benefits from the microclimate of Lake Garda and the northern Alpine currents which create the thermal shock important for the inimitable character of the grapes.

Production of wine began in 2002 with the purchase of 10 acres of vineyards, including Le Guaite, situated on the highest part of the hill.

Noemi said she began helping her mother and father in the vineyards as well as the cellar when she was 8 years old.

In 2016 after years of daily work in the winery she took over the responsibility of running it, in part to relieve her parents of some of the never-ending work. At the same time the wines were getting excellent reviews and she wanted to open up the international market. She pointed out that her vineyards are situated next to those of the famous Romano Del Forno.

Noemi said she ages her wines longer than most, to give them their distinctive character, powerful structure and impressive elegance.

The Wines

IGT Rosso Veronese “Tono” made from 35% Corvinone, 35% Corvina, 20% Rondinello and 10% Oseleto and the vines are 15/40 years old at 350/400 meters with a 15/20 slope. The soil is white and pink limestone with basalt rock.  There are 5,000 vines per hectare and the training system is guyot. The farming method is sustainable agriculture. Fermentation is in stainless steel. Aging takes place in stainless steel for 18/20 months and then in bottle for another 12 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, plum, and a touch of violets. Noemi said aromas of mint and eucalyptus are characteristic of her wine. $19

Valpolicella Superiore DOC 33% Corvina, 33% Rondinello and 34% Corvinone. Training system is guyot except for one hectare which has 40 year old vines and is pergola pruned. The grapes are dried for 30 to 40 days followed by fermentation in stainless steel. Aging takes place in second passage French oak for 15 months and then for another 6 months in stainless steel. The wine remains in the bottle for 3 years before release. The wine has hints of ripe red and black fruit, black cherry and plum with a touch of spice, a note of vanilla and coffee. Current vintage is 2013. $33

Valpolicella Ripasso DOC made from 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. Training system is guyot except for one hectare which is of 40 year old vines which is pergola pruned. The grapes are dried for 30/40 days followed by fermentation in stainless steel on grape skins left from making Amarone. The wine is aged is second passage French oak for 30 months and then 6 months in stainless steel. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 years before release. The wine has hints of red cherry, blueberries, and blackberries with a hint of vanilla and a touch of pepper. $39

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG  made from 35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. Training system is guyot except for one hectare with 40 year old vines which is pergola pruned. The grapes are dried for 4 months and then fermented in stainless steel during the month of January. The wine is aged in new French oak barriques for 3 years then for 6 months in stainless steel.Then the wine is aged for 4 years in bottle before release. The wine has hints of black plum, blackberries, ripe red cherries, balsamic notes, pepper and a touch of vanilla. The current vintage is 2012. $65

Recioto della Valpolicella DOCG made from 35% Corvina, 35% Rondinella and 30% Corvinone. The grapes are dried for 6 months followed by fermentation in stainless steel. Fermentation is stopped when the wine reaches 13.5% alcohol. Aging is in new French oak barrels for 3 years and then 6 months in stainless steel. The wine is released after being in the bottle for 3 years. This is an intense  wine with rich fruit aromas of raisins, black cherry, black plums and blackberries. $73

Tisbe IGT made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyard at 450/500 meters. The soil is limestone with white calcareous rock, pink ferrous calcareous rock, basaltic rock containing minerals, olivine and pyroxene and volcanic soil. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is in the beginning of October. The grapes are dried  for 3 months and 2 weeks, then the grapes are destemmed, pressed and under go cryomaceration. Fermentation is with cultured yeasts with simultaneous malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged in French oak barriques for about 36 months and another 16 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberries, blueberries, black plum and chocolate with a hint of coffee and a touch of tobacco. Alcohol is 17% The current vintage is 2017. $83

Solitario IGT made from 35% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 35% Corvinone and 10% Oseletta and Corvinone. The wine is aged in new French barriques for about 54 months  and in bottle for 30 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, black plum, pepper and a balsamic note. Alcohol 17% % $145

The Olive Oil

In addition to the 10 acres of vineyards they also have 7 acres of olive groves with such old varieties as Grignano, Leccio del Corno and Casaliva which are used to make an excellent olive oil.  All of the olives are treated and gathered by hand.

Meeting Noemi and tasting her wines was one of the highlights of my visit to the Veneto.

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Filed under Amarone, Le Guaite di Nomei, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso

The Fantastic Wines of Terre di Leone

I visited the Veneto with wine publicist Federica Schir who brought me to visit one of her clients in Valpolicella.  I was unfamiliar with the wine or the winery but Federica said that the wines were fantastic.  She added that the owners were devoted to making traditional classic wine.  She really got my interest!

At the winery we were met by Chiara Turati, co-owner of the winery with her husband, Federico Pellizzari.

Chiara told me that when she first arrived in Valpolicella  she fell in love with the area and decided to live there. She also fell in love with Federico Pellizzari, a native of Marano, and they soon married. Federico’s grandfather, Leone, owned some land in the area and the couple decided that they wanted to make wine. They did not have any experience in winemaking so they began  learning everything they could about creating a winery and making wine. They decided to name the winery Leone in honor of Federico’s grandfather. The winery is built on different levels so the cellar would work on the principle of gravity. They began work in 1996 but did not complete the winery until 2005 when they produced their first wine.  It was released in 2009.

The winery is in Marano, part of the Valpolicella Classical zone not far from Verona. There are 7 hectares of vineyards. The soil is predominantly volcanic basalt with some chalky deposits and  terraced with dry-stone walls (marogne) typical of  Valpolicella. There is no artificial irrigation system.  Chiara said their training system is guyot which is unusual for Valpolicella where the pergola method rules. Because of the high altitude (430 meters) and the breeze that comes down the Valgatara Valley she feels they have a unique microclimate. The harvest is manual.

Re Pazzo (Crazy King) line

Valpolicella Classico 2022 made from 40% Corvina, 20% Corivinone 25% Rondinella, 10% Molinara and 5% Oseleta from vineyards located close to the villages of Marano di Valpolicella and Fumane within the Valpolicella Classico appellation. The vineyards are are at 430 meters on slopes and the exposure is south and southeasterly. The grapes are harvested late in the season manually and placed in plastic containers. The grapes are destemmed, not pressed. The must is left to macerate at a low temperature for 9 days before starting the fermentation process at a low temperature. The wine is aged in stainless steel vats for 5 months. After bottling the wine is aged in the cellar at a constant temperature for at least 2 months before release.  This is an easy to drink Valpolicella that reminds me of the traditional ones I drank long ago while visiting Lake Garda. $18

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2020. The Ripasso method of making wine is particular to the Valpolicella region. It involves pouring the Valpolicella Classico Superior onto the grape skins of the Amarone which are left in the vinifier when the Amarone has been racked off. These skins already contain sugar.  Additional yeast is added to start a second fermentation which enriches the wine with structure and aromas. The wine is aged in 5 hl French tonneaux and 10hl French oak casks for about 12 months. After the wine is bottled it remains in the cellar at a constant temperature for at least 3 month before release. This is traditional Ripasso going back to the time before they added the “dried” grapes. $19

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico  2017 made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. The grapes are harvested manually and placed in crates holding 5kg of fruit. The grapes are then stored in a fruit drying loft called a fruttaio for 110 days to dry the grapes (apassimento). This reduces the water content and increases the concentration of flavors and aromas.  The dried grapes are destemmed. Cold fermentation takes place in steel tanks for 7 to 9 days before temperature controlled fermentation begins. Then the grapes are delicately pressed. The wine is aged in 10hl and 25hl French oak casks for about 40 months and in bottle for 8 months before release. Very traditional Amarone that tastes like an Amarone and not like a Recioto.  $47

 

Terre di Leone line. This is a classic line of elegant balanced wines.

Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore  2017. The grapes are harvested manually and placed in crates holding 5kg of fruit. The grapes are then stored in a fruit drying loft for 100 days to dry the grapes.  The dried grapes are destemmed, not pressed. They undergo cold fermentation in steel tanks for 12 days before temperature controlled fermentation. The wine is aged in 5 hl French oak tonneaux and 10 liter French oak casks for about 50 months. After the wine is bottled it remains in the cellar for at least 6 months before release. $38

Valpolicella Ripasso DOC Classico Superiore 2018 The wine is aged in 10hl French oak tonneaux for about 40 months and in bottle for another 6 months before release.  $33

Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva 2012 made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. The grapes remain in the drying loft for 110 days to dry. The wine is aged 25hl French oak casks for about 96 months and a least  12 months in barrel before release. 7,444 bottles produced all individually numbered. $71. This may be the best Amarone I have ever tasted.

Something different

Dedicatum Veronese IGT Rosso 2018 The blend changes from year to year and can include approximately 14 different grape varieties that are recommended and authorized by the current production regulations. The grapes are dried in the fruttaio for 80 days. The grapes are destemmed not pressed and undergo cold maceration in steel tanks for approximately 8 days before temperature controlled fermentation. Aging is in 10hl French oak for about 42 months. After bottling the wine is aged in the cellar for at least 12 months  before release. 3,400 individual numbered bottles were released. $33

 When I tasted the Re Pazzo line I was very impressed with the wines. When I tasted the Terre di Leone wines I was even more impressed. These wines may be the finest line of wines I have ever tasted from the Valpolicella Classico zone. I did not list the aromas and flavors of the wines because mere words would not do them justice.  Frederica used the word “fantastic” to describe them, and I couldn’t agree with her more!

They do not have an importer for New York and most of the U.S

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Filed under Amarone, Terre di Leone, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso

Artisanal Wines from Gladiator Wine Distribution

I first met Tony Margiotta, owner of Gladiator Wine Distribution, at a wine tasting a few years ago.  At the time he had very few producers, but I was very impressed by his selections and his passion for Italian wines in general.  As his portfolio grew he invited me to taste his wines but we just could not seem to get together. Last month I saw him at a wine event and we finally made a date to meet.

IMG_8911Tony only carries Italian wines and he has only artisanal producers who only use native grapes. All of the wines listed below have a production of under 10,000 bottles and one is under 1,000.  It was amazing that Tony was able to find such good producers that most people have never heard of — including me.

IMG_8894Castellucci Miano DOC Valledolmo-Contea di Sclafani-Sicily “Shiara” Bianco 2019  made of 100% Catarratto from 30/40  years old vines located on the slopes of the Madonie Montains at 700/900 meters.   Training system is alberello and sapling, the pruning is guyot and spur.  Soil is half sand and clay with an alkaline reaction due to active limestone. Harvest takes place in October. White wine vinification with fermentation at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine remains in stainless steel for 6 months and then in bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints a citrus fruit, apple, and pear with a touch of cantaloupe and crisp acidity $35.     *Catarratto is a grape indigenous to Sicily

IMG_8896Castellucci Miano “PerricOne” 2020 made from 100% Perricone on the slopes of the Madonie mountains at 700/900 meters.The vineyard is 4 hectares with a southeast/southwest exposure and there are 4,000 vines per hectare. The soil is sandy, clayey, of medium texture, with alkaline reaction due to the presence of active limestone. The training system is espalier, the pruning is guyot and spur. The average age of the vines is 30 years. In the vineyard there is no weeding or the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Harvest takes place in September. Traditional winemaking with pumping over during fermentation. Selected yeasts from the vine yard are used. Malolactic fermentation is completed. The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks for 3 months and in small French oak barrels for 10 months and in bottle for another 6 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, juniper a note of spice and good acidity $26.  *They were the first producer in Sicily to make a monovarietal from the Perricone grape.

IMG_8898Terre AnticheRubino” Cesanese del Piglio 2021 made from 100% Cesanese del Piglio from 25/30 year old vines. The training system is espalier and guyot and the soil is limestone, calcareous. Harvest is at the end of September.  The grapes are destemmed and there is a soft pressing in amphora followed by a spontaneous fermentation in amphora, maceration is for 10/15 days. The wine is aged in amphora, chestnut  barrels and cement. Filtration and clarification does not take place. The wine is bottled the following spring after the harvest and remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. This is a medium-bodied fresh red wine with hints of cherry, pomegranate, rose petals and hint of spice. $30.  The estate vineyards are in Piglio and Anagni south of Rome. The winery is biodynamic.

IMG_8900Atha Ruja “Terra Sorella” Cannonau di Sardegna DOC 2020 Made from 100% Cannonau. After fermentation on the skins for a period of 15 to 20 days, the grapes mature in steel tanks for at least 10 months and a small part is aged in French oak tonneaux for a period of less than a year. The wine remains in bottle 2 to 3 months before release. The wine has hints of myrtle, raspberry, strawberry, and rosemary, with touch of spice. The grapes are grown without the use of pesticides are and the vines are managed according to biodynamic principles.  $22

IMG_8904Antico BorgoCampi Taurasini” 2017 made from 100% Aglianico The soil is clay and chalky and the training system is espalier. Manual harvest takes place in October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation takes places at a controlled temperature. Aging is for 1 year in a combination of French barriques and large American oak casks and the wine remains in the bottle for 2 years before release. The wine has hints of raspberry, violets, cherry, a touch of plum and a note of leather. $25  The current vintage is 2017    *Irpinia Campi Taurasini is a sub region of the Irpinia DOC of central Campania.  The classification applies to wines made from the Aglianico grape on the Campi Taurasi-the Taurasian Fields. This territory is the same as Taurasi DOCG. Campi Taurasini means “little Taurasi fields.”  While Taurasi Riserva DOGG is aged for 3 years in oak barrels and can age for many years the Taurasini spends just one year in oak before bottling. It is a wine that is made to be drunk young but still has aging potential. This is the first time I tasted a wine from this appellation.

IMG_8906Antico Borgo “Taurasi Riserva”  DOCG 2015 made from 100% Aglianico. The soil is clay and chalky and the training system is espalier. The manual harvest takes place in October and early November. The wine ages for 3 years of which one is in large oak barrels.  There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation is in temperature controlled steel vats. This is a full bodied wine with hints of red fruit, cherries, blackberries. spice, leather and a hint of tobacco.  $65. The current release is 2015

IMG_8912 2Battaglio Barbaresco 2019 Made from 100% Nebbiolo from the Serragilli cru. The exposure is southwest and there are 5,000 plants per hectare.  Soil is limestone, calcareous and vine training is espalier with guyot pruning. The fertilizer is manure with a minimal use of sulfur and copper depending on the weather. Weeding is done by machines. The grapes are hand harvested. Fermentation takes place with selected yeasts from the Langhe. There is up to 30 days of maceration with frequent pumping over at 30-33 degrees Celsius in steel vats.  Aging is for 24 months in 20% Slavonian oak and 80% in French barriques. Only 980 bottles were produced. The wine has hints of berries, black cherry, clove, licorice and a note of tobacco. $95

IMG_8908Tenute Ugolini  “Amarone Valle Alta” 2013 made from Corvina Gentile, Corvina Grosso and Oseleta. The Valle Alta vineyard is  3.23 hectares at 256 meters. The training system is spalliera Veronese (Veronese vertical-trellis) and there are 6,250 vines per hectare. Soil composed of fossil marl and the exposure is south/east and the vines are 20 years old. Harvest is in the middle of October. After the harvest the grapes are placed in small crates to be dried in the drying center. When the grapes have lost more than 50% of their  original weight they are hand selected, crushed and fermented. Maturation is for 36 months in barriques and tonneaux and then in bottle for at least two years before release. The wine has hints of jam, cherry, dried fruit, sweet spice, licorice, a note of cocoa and a touch of nutmeg. $120  *Appassimento: Italian term for drying harvested grapes, traditionally on bamboo racks or straw mats,  for up to 3 months in the case of Amarone, to concentrate the sugars and flavors.

Here is a link to where you can buy the wines

https://shop.royalwinemerchants.com/wine/hidden-gems-of-italy/

Tony Margiotta’s portfolio is one to watch.  I certainly look forward to trying his next discoveries.

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Filed under Amarone, Amphora, Barbaresco, Cannonau, Catarrato, Cesanese, Gladiator Wines, Perrione, Taurasi, Taurasini

Gage and Tollner

The restaurant was opened 1879 in the Brooklyn on Fulton Street. It reopened in its present location on Fulton Street in 1892 with a Neo-Greco front and ornate interior characteristic of the late Victorian Era. fast-forward to 1973 John Simmons joins Ed Dewry in the ownership and management of the restaurant. John Simmons is a very close friend who now lives in Oregon. I also know the last owned Joe Chirico who closed the restaurant in 1995. 

gage and tollnerI first went to Gage & Tollner in the early 1970’s when I lived in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn and later when I lived in Park Slope, Brooklyn when Edna Louis, a groundbreaking chef, was there.  Michele and I have fond memories of it and felt we had a connection to the restaurant.  The restaurant had existed for many years, but closed in the early 2000’s.  The interior has landmark status, a rarity in this city, and recently reopened with a whole new owner and management team.  We made a date to meet friends there for dinner.  We were happy to see that the restaurant allows you to bring your own wines with a reasonable corkage fee.

IMG_5709We started with Champagne  Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV  Made from 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It has tiny bubbles, a fruity delicate freshness with hints of citrus fruit, ginger and a touch of brioche.

IMG_5764Chicken Pate — a delicate mousse-like pate with raisins and walnuts, served with warm toast.  This was one of several appetizers that we shared.

IMG_5771Cornmeal Fritters

IMG_5769Corn pudding

IMG_5766Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998. Fabiano made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 5% Croatian. The vineyards are at 190/370 meters and the soil is red compact with clay, rich in skeleton deposits and marly clay. The training system is Pergola Veronese in terraces contained by stone walls (marogne). Harvest is manual. The grapes are soft pressed and partially destemmed, then dried for about 4 months according to the traditional drying method. In the second half of January the grapes are gently pressed and destemmed. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for about 50 days after 30 days maceration on the skins. The wine is aged in 40HL oak barrels for 30 months and 3 months in bottle before release. This is a complex full bodied wine but also soft and balanced with deep dark fruit, prunes, plums a touch of chocolate, a note of spiced and a hint of cherry. Very traditional and a good food wine. Residual sugar g/4.6.

unnamedfriesThe French Fries were excellent, light, crisp and not greasy

unnamed PorkPork Shoulder Rib Roast for two was juicy and perfectly roasted, topped with cherry mostarda.

Welcome back, Gage & Tollner!  We loved being back, our meal was terrific, and we will be back again soon.

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Osteria Laura

Osteria Laura

A new Italian restaurant is always interesting to me, especially when it involves someone like Rosanna De Michele, who is the chef of the newly opened Osteria Laura in Harlem.

Rosanna

Rosanna is from Abruzzo and I have enjoyed her food when she was the chef at another restaurant and at a friend’s home. A visit to the restaurant seemed like the perfect opportunity to get together with old friends Mary Ewing Mulligan and Ed Mc Carthy, co-authors of the Wine for Dummies Series, who live nearby.

We decided to share a number of appetizers including meatballs, fried calamari, grilled sausages with broccoli rabe, and fresh burrata imported from Puglia. This is real Italian food, at a very good price.

To drink, we began with:

Henriot Cuvee “Des Enchanteleurs” Brut 1989 made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from six of the most prestigious Grand Cru vineyards.  Ed was surprised that it was so ready to drink for a Champagne from the 1989 vintage. It is rich with citrus aromas and flavors and hints of peach, hazelnut, and a touch of honey. Aromatic with a great finish and aftertaste, it was wonderful.

Champagne Krug Grand Cuvée Brut NV made from 45/55% Pinot Noir, 15/20 Pinot Meunier and 25/35% Chardonnay–the percent depends upon the vintage. About 120 wines from 10 or more different vintages are blended and it is aged for at least 6 years in the cellars. All of the Krug Champagnes are aged in used small oak barrels. They are all prestige cuvees made from Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages and are aged longer before release. The overall rating for the vineyards is 98% with Krug’s own vineyards rating 100%. As Ed said obviously this is not just another NV Champagne. It is Michele’s favorite.

Schiava 2018 DOC Elena Walch made from 100% Schiava grapes from high side vineyards above Lake Caldaro at 1,312 ft. The soil is limestone and clay. There is temperature-controlled fermentation at 27°C in stainless steel tanks for 7 days of skin contact. Malolactic fermentation and maturation take place in traditional 8,000 liter Slovenian oak casks. This is a fruity red wine with hints of cherry and a nice bitter almond touch on the finish.

For the main courses we had:

Pasta with Burrata and Artichokes – The day’s special, the chef used imported Burrata and top quality Rustichella d’Abruzzo pasta.

Tagliatelle with Ragu Abruzzese – A classic ragu made as do in Abruzzo.

Chicken Rollatini with Mushrooms – Chicken breast cutlets rolled and stuffed with imported prosciutto, served with sauteed mushrooms.

With our main courses, we drank:

Dolcetto 1971 “Cru Nassone La Morra” Marcarini/Cogno made from 100% Dolcetto. I do not believe this label is used anymore. Back in 1971 the wine would have been aged in concrete or large oak barrels (botte) they did not have stainless steel tanks or barriques back then. For me this was a delightful surprise. The wine had hints of red fruit, black cherry with a touch of violets and almonds. It was showing no signs of age. Fantastic!

 

Recioto Valpolicella Amarone 1967 Bertani 70% Corvina Veronese, 30% Rondinella-this is the present blend.
Carefully selected grape bunches are hand-harvested in Bertani’s best Valpolicella vineyards in Fumane, Marano and the Novare Valley. Vines are cultivated using the “spalliera” method while pruning is done using the Guyot method with 5.000 vines/ha.
Unlike most leading Amarone producers, who buy grapes from outside growers, Bertani’s harvest originates entirely in the firm’s own vineyards. With marly-calcareous soil sheltered by surrounding woodland, these vineyards offer the ideal terroir for Amarone.
Harvest begins in early October and extends over a two-week period. After harvest, ripe, unblemished grapes from the uppermost portions of each cluster — those grapes richest in sugar and extracts — are painstakingly detached and laid out to dry on cane mats. The mats are stored on raised platforms in airy lofts, sheltered by a roof but otherwise exposed to drying breezes on all sides. By the time they are ready to undergo maceration and fermentation in February, they will have lost up to 60% of their water content (appassimento). A lengthy maceration period ensues, a factor responsible for Amarone’s tremendous body and structure. After a controlled fermentation, the wine was transferred into oak casks for a period of 5-8 years (the 1961, I believe, spent a longer time in wood) during which it was racked twice annually prior to bottling.
Dry, full-bodied, and amply structured with hints of cherries, red berries and spice and a rich aftertaste and long finish, a wonderful wine.

For dessert:

Affogato al Café – vanilla ice cream topped with hot espresso express over vanilla ice cream,

Osteria Laura is located at 1890 Adam Clayton Powell Blvd, NY, NY. The phone is 917- 261-6575.

The Owner is Laura Testa.

 

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Pasqua: The Winery Of Verona

Would a serious wine producer name his wines Romeo and Juliet Passione Sentimento (Passion and Feeling)?  This was the first thought that came to me when I read the invitation to a tasting of these wines from Pasqua.  I decided to go and taste the wines for myself- one should not judge the wine by the label.

The hosts were the brothers Alessandro and Riccardo Pasqua.

Their father is Umberto Pasqua, President of Famiglia Pasqua Winery.  Riccardo is CEO and Alessandro is Vice President Americas, with special responsibility for marketing and business development at Pasqua USA.  In 2014, the brothers took over the management of the Famiglia Pasqua winery, which was founded in 1925.  Since then,  they have made many changes, such as producing wines that break the rules with graffiti-inspired labels, establishing partnerships with talented artists, improving the quality of the wine, and it was all done with a sense of humor. Acutely aware of the importance of the U.S. market, Pasqua established its own importing arm, Pasqua USA LLC, in 2009.

Riccardo said the US has become their biggest market, enabling them to buy out the other family members in 2017 and now the company speaks with one voice.

After construction in 2007 of a new environmentally friendly, gravity-fed winery and headquarters, including cellars, a laboratory, and temperature-controlled warehouse, Pasqua relocated to the village of San Felice, just outside Verona.  Minimizing the carbon footprint informs every decision.  Pasqua has control of 741 acres. 1/3 is estate owned and 2/3 are owned by growers. Pasqua purchases 100% of the grower grapes and has long-term contract and is responsible for decision making to ensure quality.

The Wines

Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto IGT 2017 made from 100% Garganega and dried in the Fruttaio for 15 days. Alessandro said this results in the concentration of sugars and floral aromas. After crushing, maceration on the skins takes place for over 12 hours. Vinification is with selected yeasts and a portion of the wine is aged in new French oak barrels for a few months. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, peaches and a touch of almonds. It is an easy to drink wine. $16

The wine is IGT because there was no category for dry white wines made from raisined grapes.

Riccardo said the name Passione  Sentimento (Passion and Feeling) is to celebrate the city of love, Verona, because of it history, monuments and wine. Verona is associated with Romeo and Juliet. Every day 3,ooo messages are written on the 20-foot wall of Juliet’s house in Cappello Street. The label for the Romeo & Juliet wines is a photo of that graffitied wall photographed by Giò Martorana with Passione Sentimento superimposed on the label.

Romeo & Juliet Passione Sentimento Rosso Veneto IGT 2016 made from Corvina, Croatina and Merlot. The grapes are hand picked and a portion of the Corvina and Merlot are put into small crates in the Fruttaio to dry until they lose 30% of their water content and gain high sugar content. This is then blended with the juice from the non-dried grapes and vinified in steel tanks. Following fermentation the grapes age in oak tonneaux for about 4 months and then aged in bottle before release. The wine has hints of cherry, plum and a touch of spice. $16

Riccardo said The Rosso is IGT because it breaks 10 different rules.

With these labels the Bianco and Rosso have become very successful in the U. S. This is the only red wine in the U.S. market made from 100% dried grapes that is not Valpolicella or Amarone.

Famiglia Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella  DOCG 2013 made from Corvina, Rondinella, Corvinone and Oseleta. From five vineyards in the northeastern part of Valpolicella, called Valpantena. The soil is calcareous, flakey debris and very pebbly. The best bunches are harvested by hand and put into crates in the Fruttaio where after 3 months they become raisin like (appassimento). The grapes increase in sugar extracts by 25 to 30%. These dried grapes are pressed and racked in steel tanks where malolactic fermentation takes place. The wine is aged in small French oak barrels, with a small portion of the wine aged in large cherry wood barrels (botti) for 18 to 20 months. The wine is aged in bottle for 4 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries and cherries, spice, chocolate and a touch of vanilla. Alcohol 15% $46

This is a limited edition only 7,000 bottles were made. The label for Amarone Family Pasqua was designed by Giorgia Fincato, a Veneto artist.

Alessandro said all the grapes are dried in a Fruttaio with controlled ventilation and temperature. Every room is equipped with forced ventilation from the ceiling and there are about 70 movable fans. Doors and windows are always closed to keep the fresh air inside.  At Pasqua the Fruttaio has three levels: an upper floor (200 meters, the ground floor and one below ground 10 meters.)  This is because they feel that different grape varieties dry better at different levels. For example Garganega, a white grape dries better at the coolest level, 10 meters below ground. They do a mix of red grapes to dry at 3 different levels, then blend then accordingly after pressing.

As far as I know Pasqua is the only winery that has a 3 level Fruttaio and one of the few to make a dry white wine from dried grapes.

Mai Dire Mai ( Never Say Never) Valpolicella DOC 2013 made from 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta from the Val d’Illasi, east of Valpolicella. The soil is calcareous/clay. The grapes are hand picked perfectly ripe, sorted, destemmed and gently pressed. Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature and then the wine ages in French oak tonneaux and predominantly new oak and some second passage for 18 months. This is well structured wine with hints of dark cherry, spice and coffee and a note of clove. $46

Mai Dire Mai Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2011 made from Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta. The grapes are hand picked and carefully selected. They are dried in wooden crates for 4 months in the Fruttaio to achieve a high concentration of sugar. Cold maceration is for 3 to 4 days. Fermentation is in steel at a controlled temperature for 40 days. Malolactic fermentation is completed in steel. The wine is aged for 24 months in French oak barriques 70% and 30% in tonneaux. All the barrels are new. This is a complex wine with hints of cherry, dark fruit, leather and a note of cedar. $100 .

Romeo & Juliet Passione Setimento Prosecco Brut Treviso DOC   made from 100% Glera grapes grown on hillside  vineyards in the Conegliano sub zone of Treviso. The Charmat method is used and the wine stays in the tanks for 60 days instead of the more common 30 days. Riccardo  said this produces tiny more persistent bubbles and a more elegant Prosecco. It has hints of pear and apple and the alcohol is only 11% . $16

It seems that the Pasqua brothers got it right!

 

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Giusti Wines of the Veneto

In my last blog I wrote about the “KIN” the Erbaluce di Caluso of  Domenico Tappero Merlo – Vignaiolo in Canavese

The other winery at the lunch and tasting at Del Posto NYC organized by Michael Roman of Romano Brands was Societa Agricola Giusti Col, better know as Giusti Wines of the Veneto. The winery was founded in 2002. The center of the operation and the main office is located in Nervesa della Battaglia, a rural village in the province of Treviso.

Valentino

At lunch I was sitting next to Valentino Radaelli the Junior Export Manager.   He is a very knowledge and interesting young man. We not only discussed the Giusti wines but Italian wine in general and it was a pleasure speaking with him.

Prosecco DOC NV “Rosalia”  NV made from 100% Glera grapes from the “Rosalia” estate. The soil is of medium texture and the training system is sylvoz.  There are 3,550 to 4,000 plants per hectare. Fermentation takes place without the skins. Primary fermentation is with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature and secondary fermentation is at a low temperature in pressurized tanks. This is a fruity Prosecco with ripe fruit aromas and flavors and more than a touch of  sweetness.

Asolo Prosecco Superiore ”Extra Dry” NV DOCG 100% Glera grapes. The soil is red clayey and the training system is sylvoz and guyot. There are 3,500 to 4,500 vines per hectare. Fermentation is off the skins. The primary fermentation takes place with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature and the secondary fermentation is at a low temperature in pressurized tanks. This Prosecco has hints of apple, floral notes and a touch of lemon.

I asked Valentino if the Rosalia had more residual sugar than the Asolo. He said no, they were both extra dry but the grapes for the Rosalia were grown on the plain (the lowlands of the Piave Basin) while the grapes for the Asolo were grown on the hillside.

Extra Dry Prosecco can have between 12% and 17% residual sugar and my guess is that because the Rosalia comes from grapes grown on the plain it was closer to 17%  making it taste “sweeter.” The residual sugar for both is 15 g/l plus or minus 2. So the Rosalia would be plus 2=17 g/l and the Asolo would be -2 or 13.g/l accounting for the difference in taste. The Asolo would go better with food while the Rosalia would work by itself or with dessert.

Giusti owns almost 25% of the land in the designated Prosecco DOCG zone.

Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC 2017 “Longheri” 100% Pinot Grigio from vineyards located in the Montello and Asolo hills and specifically from the vineyard Longheri which is part of the Rolando estate. Medium mixed soil. There are 4,000 to 4,500 vines per hectare and the training system is sylvoz and guyot. Fermentation is off the skins with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature. After fermentation the wine is kept in contact with the yeast for a long period and periodically stirred until it is bottled. This is a fruity wine with hints of pear and a touch of apple.

The wine has nice citrus aromas and flavors with hints of pear and a touch of banana.

Chardonnay Delle Venezie IGT 2017 “Dei Carni” 100% Chardonnay from the Dei Carni vineyard which is part of the Rolando estate. Vine training and fermentation like the Pinot Grigio. This is fruity and flowery with citrus notes.

Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiori 2016 DOC made from Corvina Veronese, Corvinone and Rondinella. The production zone is the hilly area of Valploicella at 100 to 150 meters. The soil is calcareous and volcanic and there are about 4,000 vines per hectare. The vines are trained by the Pergola Veronese system. The wine is aged in oak casks for about 12 months.

I asked Valentino if they dried the grapes for the Ripasso as many producers now do. He said no and then explained the process. After the wine for the Amarone is removed from the stainless steel vats, what remains in the vats is the skins. The fresh Valpolicello Classico is then poured into the vats taking on additional flavor and body from the Amarone skins. This Ripasso was one of the best I ever tasted with aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries  and a touch of prune. It is a very good food wine.

Amarone Della Valpoicella Classico 2016 DOCG made from Corvina Veronese, Corvinone and Rondinella. The production zone is the hills of the Valoplicella Classical area at an attitude of 120 t0 200 meters. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the training system is the Pergola Veronese. Valentino said the grapes are picked a bit late to ensure ripeness and left to dry for about 120 days. They lose 30% to 40% of their weight and become raisin-like. This produces a wine which is very concentrated with a high sugar content and 15% alcohol. The wine is aged is 500 liter French oak barrels for 24 to 28 months. This is a full-bodied wine with hints of raisins, plums, cherries, figs and a touch of molasses. The wine will age for a number of years. Unlike many amarones, this is a food friendly wine.

The Amarone was a perfect combination with the steak.

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Roberto Di Filippo: Horses, Geese and Organic Wine

A few months ago, the Wine Media Guild did a tasting of wines made from native Italian grapes that are not very well known. Some of the wines were real gems, but one produced by Roberto Di Filippo that was made from the Trebbiano Spoletino grape really stood out.

Elisa Bosco of PR Vino, who organized the wines for the tasting, later asked me if I wanted to attend a tasting featuring more of the wines of Roberto Di Filippo. She said that Roberto would present the wines.

Roberto Di Filippo

Roberto is a very engaging and informative speaker and you can hear the passion when he speaks about his wines.

The Di Filippo winery is 30-hectares and overlooks Assisi on the hills between Torgiano and Montefalco in the heart of Umbria. Roberto and his sister Emma own it.

It is situated in Cannara and nearby is Pian d’Arca, where St. Francis spoke to the birds.

Plani Arche is 6-hectares of vineyards owned by Roberto Di Filippo and his wife Elena. Roberto said that they have a tradition of cultivation which respects nature, as they strongly believe in the need to find a constant balance between man, soil, flora and fauna. He has introduced a number of different ecologically friendly systems.

Agroforestry is a land use system of land management involving simultaneous cultivation of farm crops, trees and shrubs. It combines shrubs and trees in agriculture and forestry technologies to create more diverse, productive, profitable, healthy, ecologically sound and sustainable land use systems. As part of this they use workhorses in the vineyard to do the cultivation and to solve the problem of soil compression. Roberto said they raise geese within the Plani Arche vineyard. He said a number of times he is first of all a farmer and that everything depends on what happens in the vineyards.

Since 1994 the wines have been cultivated organically, and biodynamic cultivation was introduced some years ago. They are certified organic according to E. U. regulations for the Plani Arche vineyard.

It can be a little confusing as Roberto makes the same wines under both the Di Filippo and Plani Arche label.

The difference for me between them is that the Di Filippo wines were bigger and more intense, while the Plani Arche wines were more elegant.

The wines

Trebbiano Spoletino “Farandola” (Umbria) 2016 IGT Di Filippo made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino

The soil is clayey-calcareous and the vineyards are on hillsides. Training method is guyot and there are 4,600 vines per hectare. Fermentation takes place off the skins at 18 degrees C and the wines remain in stainless steel until bottled. This is a fruity wine, rich in flavor with hints of citrus. It has good acidity and minerality. It is one of the best examples of Trebbiano I have ever tasted. Roberto said the Trebbiano Spoletino is native to Umbria and is different from other Trebbiano grapes.

Trebbiano Spoletino IGT 2016 Plani Arche made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino. There are 4,400 plants per hectare. Fermentation is off the skins at a low temperature. The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel casks for 4 months. This is a fresh and complex wine with citrus flavors and aromas and buttery notes.

Grechetto Colli Martani DOC 2016 Plani Arche 100% made from Grechetto. The vines are spur cordon/guyot trained; and there are 4,000/5,000 plants per hectare temperature. The wine is aged in steel casks on the less and then in bottle before release. This is a fruity wine with a hint of spice and a touch of almond in the aftertaste.

Grechetto IGT Bianco dell’Umbria IGT 2016 Plani Arche made from 100% Grechetto from hillside vineyards. This wine is produced without the addition of sulfites.

The soil is clayey-calcareous and the training system is guyot. There are 5,000 plants per hectare.

Montefalco Rosso DOC Plani Arche made from 60% Sangiovese, 25% Barbera and 15% Sagrantino. The soil is clayey-calcareous, the training system is guyot and cordone and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. Fermentation takes place for 10 days. The wine is aged in large casks for 12 months. This is a wine that is ready to drink now. It has hints of ripe red fruit, a touch of cherry, pomegranate and a long finish and very pleasing after taste. I took the half empty bottle home with me to have with dinner.

Sagrantino is a grape that is very dark in color and has a lot of tannin. Roberto has managed to tame the grape and produce a wine that is food friendly.

Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG “Brown Label” 2013 Plani Arche100% Sagrantino. There are 5,000 plants per hectare. The grapes are hand-picked to ripen well and are left to macerate for a few days. This is an intense wine with a persistent fruity taste and hints of pomegranate and spice.

Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG 2013 Di Filippo made from 100% Sagrantino. The soil is clayey-calcareous, there are 5,000 vines per hectare. Vinification is the same as the wine belo wine below. This is a full-bodied wine, tannic with hints of red fruit and a touch of flint.

Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG “Black Label” 2009 Plani Arche made from 100% Sagrantino. There is a prolonged traditional maceration and the wine is aged in barriques and tonneaux for 18/24 months.

This is a full-bodied wine with intense red berry aromas and flavors and a hint of flint and spice. This wine will age.

Montefalco Sagrantino Passito Plani Archi made from 100% Sagrantino. The drying period (appassimento) lasts for 2 months and a subsequent maceration in the winter period. Aging takes place in stainless steel and barriques. This is an intense fruity wine with hints of black and red fruit, especially blackberries with a long finish and pleasing after taste. I liked this wine so much I took the open 375 bottle home with me.

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