One of my favorite restaurants in Rome is Checchino del 1887 and Michele and I have been going there for over 40 years. The slaughterhouses of Rome used to be located nearby in Testaccio, and the restaurant still specializes in the innards and other spare parts, called the quinto quarto, which the poor people of Rome used to eat.
This time we went with Daniele Cernilli (aka Doctor Wine) and his wife Marina Thompson. Daniele is Italy’s foremost wine critic and both he and Marina are old friends. Daniele has been going to Checchino even longer than I have.
The Essential Guide to Italian Wine 2025
Daniele’s book is my go-to reference book for Italian wines since, as Daniele said, “All the wines worth drinking are in the pages of this guide.” Both Italian and English versions of the book are available. https://www.doctorwine.wine/prodotto/the-essential-guide-to-italian-wine-2025/?lang=en
The wines for our lunch were brought by Daniele. We started with a Spumante.
Giu Inte Concarena made from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir Concarena from a single vineyard. Zero dosage-there is no additional sugar or liqueur added after the second fermentation. The wine spent 26 months on the lees and was disgorged in March 2024. Organic certification both in the vineyard and in the winery since 2002. I was unfamiliar with the winery so I asked Daniele to tell me about it. He said it is located in Capo di Ponte in Valcamonica in Lombardy, a place famous for its prehistoric rock carvings, but for some years also for the production of wine, Riesling Renano in particular. A vertical valley, exposed to the north winds but sheltered enough to offer an ideal home to vines like those that love temperature variations. Concarena is a small company with totally sustainable production. Photovoltaic energy, no fertilization and all manual work. In winter the sheep graze among the vineyards and in September nomadic beekeepers are hosted. This is an elegant spumante with citrus fruit, a touch of spice and a hint of strawberry.
Appetizer pastries to enjoy with the spumante
My first course was the Assaggio di Fagioli e Cotiche, pig skin and borlotti beans cooked with tomato. This dish is so good, so intense and so Roman!
Pasta Alla Matriciana — my favorite and I always have it with bucatini.
Daniele had the pasta with pajata
Michele likes her Pasta Alla Matriciana with Mezza Manica and I did not take a picture of it.
Trippa alla Romana, tripe Roman style in tomato sauce with grated pecorino.
Marnia had-Lamb chops scottadito
Padellotto della macelleria — mixed grilled innards sauteed with rosemary and garlic for Marina
Recioto Valpolicella Amarone 2009 Bertani 70% Corvina Veronese, 30% Rondinella. Carefully selected grape bunches are hand-harvested in Bertani’s best Valpolicella vineyards in Fumane, Marano and the Novare Valley. Vines are cultivated using the “spalliera” method while pruning is done using the Guyot method with 5.000 vines/ha.
Unlike most leading Amarone producers who buy grapes from outside growers, Bertani’s harvest originates entirely in the firm’s own vineyards. With marly-calcareous soil sheltered by surrounding woodland, these vineyards offer the ideal terroir for Amarone. Harvest begins in early October and extends over a two-week period. After harvest, ripe, unblemished grapes from the uppermost portions of each cluster — those grapes richest in sugar and extracts — are painstakingly detached and laid out to dry on cane mats. The mats are stored on raised platforms in airy lofts, sheltered by a roof but otherwise exposed to drying breezes on all sides. By the time they are ready to undergo maceration and fermentation in February, they will have lost up to 60% of their water content (appassimento). A lengthy maceration period ensues, a factor responsible for Amarone’s tremendous body and structure. After a controlled fermentation, the wine is transferred into oak casks for a period of 5-8 years (the 1961, I believe, spent a longer time in wood) during which it was racked twice annually prior to bottling. Dry, full-bodied, and amply structured with hints of cherries, red berries and spice and a rich aftertaste and long finish, this is a wonderful wine.
Checchino restaurant in Testaccio since 1887 for 6 generations
via di Monte Testaccio, 30 00153 Rome
tel 0039 065743816
email: checchino_roma@tin.it
reservations by sms +39 3335855055
Open from Wednesday to Sunday from 12:30 to 15:00 and from 19:30 to 23:00
Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Weekly day off: Monday and Tuesday





























Tony only carries Italian wines and he has only artisanal producers who only use native grapes. All of the wines listed below have a production of under 10,000 bottles and one is under 1,000. It was amazing that Tony was able to find such good producers that most people have never heard of — including me.
Castellucci Miano “PerricOne” 2020 made from 100% Perricone on the slopes of the Madonie mountains at 700/900 meters.The vineyard is 4 hectares with a southeast/southwest exposure and there are 4,000 vines per hectare. The soil is sandy, clayey, of medium texture, with alkaline reaction due to the presence of active limestone. The training system is espalier, the pruning is guyot and spur. The average age of the vines is 30 years. In the vineyard there is no weeding or the use of fertilizers and pesticides. Harvest takes place in September. Traditional winemaking with pumping over during fermentation. Selected yeasts from the vine yard are used. Malolactic fermentation is completed. The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks for 3 months and in small French oak barrels for 10 months and in bottle for another 6 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, blackberry, juniper a note of spice and good acidity $26. *They were the first producer in Sicily to make a monovarietal from the Perricone grape.
Terre Antiche “Rubino” Cesanese del Piglio 2021 made from 100% Cesanese del Piglio from 25/30 year old vines. The training system is espalier and guyot and the soil is limestone, calcareous. Harvest is at the end of September.
Atha Ruja “Terra Sorella” Cannonau di Sardegna DOC 2020 Made from 100% Cannonau. After fermentation on the skins for a period of 15 to 20 days, the grapes mature in steel tanks for at least 10 months and a small part is aged in French oak tonneaux for a period of less than a year. The wine remains in bottle 2 to 3 months before release. The wine has hints of myrtle, raspberry, strawberry, and rosemary, with touch of spice. The grapes are grown without the use of pesticides are and the vines are managed according to biodynamic principles. $22
Antico Borgo “Campi Taurasini” 2017 made from 100% Aglianico The soil is clay and chalky and the training system is espalier. Manual harvest takes place in October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation takes places at a controlled temperature. Aging is for 1 year in a combination of French barriques and large American oak casks and the wine remains in the bottle for 2 years before release. The wine has hints of raspberry, violets, cherry, a touch of plum and a note of leather. $25 The current vintage is 2017 *Irpinia Campi Taurasini is a sub region of the Irpinia DOC of central Campania.
Antico Borgo “Taurasi Riserva”
Battaglio Barbaresco 2019 Made from 100% Nebbiolo from the Serragilli cru. The exposure is southwest and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. Soil is limestone, calcareous and vine training is espalier with guyot pruning. The fertilizer is manure with a minimal use of sulfur and copper depending on the weather. Weeding is done by machines. The grapes are hand harvested. Fermentation takes place with selected yeasts from the Langhe. There is up to 30 days of maceration with frequent pumping over at 30-33 degrees Celsius in steel vats. Aging is for 24 months in 20% Slavonian oak and 80% in French barriques. Only 980 bottles were produced. The wine has hints of berries, black cherry, clove, licorice and a note of tobacco. $95
Tenute Ugolini
I first went to
We started with Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV Made from 40% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It has tiny bubbles, a fruity delicate freshness with hints of citrus fruit, ginger and a touch of brioche.
Cornmeal Fritters
Corn pudding
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998. Fabiano made from 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 5% Croatian. The vineyards are at 190/370 meters and the soil is red compact with clay, rich in skeleton deposits and marly clay. The training system is Pergola Veronese in terraces contained by stone walls (marogne). Harvest is manual. The grapes are soft pressed and partially destemmed, then dried for about 4 months according to the traditional drying method. In the second half of January the grapes are gently pressed and destemmed. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for about 50 days after 30 days maceration on the skins. The wine is aged in 40HL oak barrels for 30 months and 3 months in bottle before release. This is a complex full bodied wine but also soft and balanced with deep dark fruit, prunes, plums a touch of chocolate, a note of spiced and a hint of cherry. Very traditional and a good food wine. Residual sugar g/4.6.
The French Fries were excellent, light, crisp and not greasy
Pork Shoulder Rib Roast for two was juicy and perfectly roasted, topped with cherry mostarda.































