The invitation read, “The Bourgogne Wine Board is delighted to invite you to a press dinner celebrating the diversity of Chablis wine and its pairing with food.” The event took place at the Time Square EDITION Hotel in NYC on its elegant terrace and outdoor gardens on the 9th floor.
The speaker was Amy Racine, Beverage Director & Partner/IF Restaurants and she spoke about Chablis and the food parings.
All Chablis is made exclusively from 100% Chardonnay and comes only from France. The region of Chablis is located in the northernmost part of Burgundy. Chablis is a town and commune in the Yonne Department in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté in north-central France. It lies in the valley of the River Serein. The vineyards are grown across a relatively small area of about 20 kilometers from north to south and around 15 from east to west. The major city closest to Chablis is Auxerre, located about 12 miles (20 km) west.
At the event we tasted wines across four appellations: Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Crus and Chablis Grand Crus, with food prepared by Michelin Star Chef John Fraser.
Chablis producers want to emphasize the terroir of the calcareous soil and the cooler climate that helps to maintain the high acidity of Chablis. Together with the use of stainless steel, that is what helps to make Chablis one of the best expressions of the Chardonnay grape. It also makes them very excellent food wines.
Chablis and Food Pairings
Petit Chablis 2024 Daniel Dampt & Fils. The winery in Chablis northern Bourgogne is more than 150 years old. With 10 hectares (25 acres) of Chablis Premier Cru vineyards, 12 hectares (30 acres) of Petit Chablis vineyards and some from the Chablis Grand Cru appellation, the family domaine manages its vineyards sustainably to protect the environment and safeguard the natural characteristics of the Chardonnay grape. The soil in the 0.5 hectare vineyard is clay-limestone. It is light and well drained with plateau exposure. Traditional cultivation with careful vineyard management with double Guyot pruning. There are 5,000 plants per hectare. The average age of the vines is 10 years. Vinification is in thermoregulated stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and typicality of the Chardonnay. There is a pneumatic pressing followed by a temperature controlled fermentation. Everything from harvest to bottling is done on the estate. The wine is aged in stainless steel for several months before it is bottled.
This was the lightest of the wines with hints of citrus, vibrant, meant to be drunk young. This was served with Lobster Beignet and Kaluga Caviar in small bites.
Petit-Chablis 2023 Isabella et Denis Pommier. Denis Pommier took over the 2 hectares of family land and planted vineyards over the years. Today their are 23 hectare of vines, Petit Chablis, Chablis Premier Chablis Cru and Bourgogne appellation areas. The soil is limestone and clay on plateau sites. These higher altitude plots are mainly composed of Portlandian and limestone based soils. Average age of the vines is 15/25 years. Organic farming practices and certified organic since 2014. The harvest is mechanical. Alcoholic formation takes place with native yeasts and malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is on the lees for 6 months and there is a light fining. Aging is in stainless steel tanks for about 12 months and then the wine is bottled.
The wine has hints of citrus fruit green apple, white flowers along with good good acidity which made it an excellent match the mousse-like goat cheese “tart.”
Chèvre Tart – Pistachio, rhubarb, pumpernickel, and mâche
Chablis 2024 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard. This family estate was founded in 1973 by Jean Marc Brocard, now joined by his son Julien. There are almost 200 hectares of which 66 are certified organic. The soil is Kimmenidgia clay-limestone rich in mineral fossils typical of Chablis. Parcels located around the village of Préhy with a southern exposure. Organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard to preserve the natural ecosystem. There are 5,700 plants per hectare and the average age of the vines is 30 years. There is a pneumatic pressing of the grapes and a cold settling. Alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts in thermoregulated stainless steel tanks. This is followed by a complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 7 to 9 months.
The classic expression of Chablis, this wine was crisp, aromatic with citrus fruit, lemon and a touch of toasted almond. It was a perfect match with the refreshing razor clam ceviche.
Razor Clam Ceviche – Celery, melon, horseradish
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaudevey 2023 Domaine Laroche. Domaine La Laroche was founded in 1850 and is one of the largest holders of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. They still produce and age their wines in the historic headquarters, known as The Obèdiencerie. Founded in 1850, Domaine Laroche has led movements to raise the quality of the appellation with the creation of a charter of excellence for the Grand Cru producers. Les Vaudeve is located in a cool and narrow valley. Sun appears in the early morning and lasts until mid-afternoon. The ripening of grapes is slow, which helps aromas to concentrate and preserve acidity. One single plot of almost 10 hectares has no more than 5 producers crafting wines from this Cru. Sorting takes place at the entrance of the cellar. Then a gentle pressing of the grapes at low pressure to extract press core only. Fermentation is in French oak barrels (15%) and in stainless steel (85%). Aged 12 months in the same containers on fine lees. After the blending, a new maturing on fine lees will take place until bottling.
This is a wine with hints of citrus fruit, green apple and a touch of vanilla.
Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre 2023 Domaine William Fevre Is one of the largest owners of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. Founded in1959 it is now part of the Lafite group. An appellation of 43 hectares on the right bank of the Serein, extending from the Grands Crus Les Clos and Blanchot. With a geological structure similar to the Grands Crus and a very good exposure, this terroir ranks among the greatest of the Premiers Crus. Wine making uses the application of the principle of gravity to avoid any pumping, which could alter the quality of the wine. Short-duration pneumatic pressing (1h30 to 2h00) for a delicate separation between the solid and liquid parts of the grapes. Very light static settling to retain enough fine lees for the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations to occur naturally. The vinifications are carried out in stainless steel vats. Aging lasts 19 months, including 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 35% of the blend with a minority in new oak.The aging process finishes in small stainless steel tanks.
This is a more complex wine, with hints of lemon, green apple, minerality, a touch of chalk and a hint of flint. The wine will age. It was very daring for the chef to pair it with an Italian pasta but it worked.
Sweet Pea Agnolotti – Fennel soubise, pancetta, lion’s mane mushrooms, nasturtium
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2019 J. Moreau & Fils founded in 1814. this is one of the historic in Chablis. From among the seven prestigious climates located in the commune of Chablis, the 11.92 hectares of Valmur stretch across a “valley” at the heart of the appellation, running alongside that of Vaudésir as well as Grenouilles and Les Clos. Its location, offering subtle variations of exposition and altitude, enable more varied wines to be produced here than in the other vineyards. Moreau’s selection concerns 2 ha of the vineyard. Chalky scree slopes overlying Kimmeridgian marl. The soil is heavy and is strewn with small fossilized oysters known as “Exogyra Virgula.” The grapes come from a select plot of old vines. Both grapes and must were brought in together. There is a long pneumatic pressing followed by a static settling. Alcoholic fermentation began in stainless steel tanks using selected yeasts. After 3 days, 10% of the juice was transferred to fine-grained barrels of selected origin. Alcoholic fermentation was complete in 10 days. Selected yeasts were added to induce malolactic fermentation in mid-October. Malolactic fermentation was complete by mid-November. Aging for about 18 months. The barrel-fermented wine was stirred weekly while the tank-fermented wine was stirred twice a month.
This was the most concentrated and complex of the wines with hints of grapefruit, lemon a touch a honey and a note of vanilla. The wine will age for a number of years. It paired well with the next course of sole and its accompaniments.
NY Sole – White asparagus, young leek, zucchini blossom, foie gras mousse, brown butter crumble.
I enjoyed this rare opportunity to sample a range of Chablis and explore the possibilities of pairing Chablis with a variety of foods.
Appetizer — We started with some small appetizers including taramasalata with pita bread and breadsticks.
With the appetizer we had Champagne Mangin Et Fils Brut Natural made from 100% Pinot Meunier from vineyards in Leuvrigny and Moussy with limestone, clay and marl soil. During the harvest the grapes are quickly brought to the press room. After the first fermentation the wines are bottled and stored in the cellars so the second fermentation occurs. The wine is aged in the cellars for several years before being riddled by hand and disgorged. There is no dosage. They remain in the cellar for a few more months before release. It has intense effervescence and hints of quince, grapefruit, dried flowers, hazelnuts and a touch of honey.
Xiao Cong Ban Doufu (scallion & tofu salad), from Shandong Province — A cool and refreshing salad with fresh tofu marinated with scallions, soy sauce and sesame oil.
Liang Ban Lian-ou (lotus root salad), from Northwestern China. Fried tofu with lotus root, red onions and edamame. Roger said that this is typically made with red chili peppers but he substituted red onions.
Dan Dan Mian (dan-dan noodles), street food from Sichuan Province. Fresh wheat noodles with ground pork, preserved vegetables, scallions and peanuts. I must have eaten 3 helpings of this.
Brittan Vineyards Sparkling Wine 2017 Brut Method Champenoise Willamette Valley, Oregon, made from 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay. The soil is a mixture of glacial deposits and volcanic material with a predominant presence of broken basalt. This is a full-bodied sparkling wine with hints of citrus fruit, lemon, white flowers and baking spice.
You Mian Jin Sai Rou (fried gluten puff stuffed with minced pork), from Shanghai. This was a sort of meat filled dumpling in a brown sauce.
Qiezi Dun Tudou (eggplant braised with potato), from Northeastern China. The eggplant and potatoes came together beautifully with a garnish of green peas.
Xihongshi Chao Jidan (tomato & scrambled eggs). Roger said that this simple dish of scrambled eggs and tomatoes is probably made in every household in China. The sauce was slightly sweet. Michele promised to make this for me at home soon.
Dessert was Figs from the tree in the garden with creme fraiche.
The Fig Tree
Ice cream with chocolate covered orange rind was the final touch.
