I had the pleasure of visiting Masciarelli Tenuta Agricole winery a number of years ago on a press trip to Abruzzo and was very impressed with the wines.
Recently I was contacted by Jane Kettlewell of Creative Palate Communications to take part in a webinar presented by Miriam Lee Masciarelli. Miriam is a promoter of the Abruzzo Region and a roving ambassador for her family’s winery.
Miriam spoke about her father, Gianni Masciarelli, as a symbol of Italian wine and of the success of modern wine production in Abruzzo. He started with 2.5 hectares of vineyards owned by his grandfather near the family home in San Martino Sulla Marrucina in the province of Chieti.
He was a non-stop innovator who frequently went against tradition. In fact, he was the first producer to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and the use of French oak barrels for the aging of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines. Sadly Gianni passed away in 2008 at age 53.
Today the company is led by Marina Cvetic, Gianni’s widow, and Miriam who is Marina and Gianni’s eldest daughter. The mother and daughter team have taken up the difficult legacy of continuing to elevate Abruzzo wines and vines into the world wine scene.
San Martino Sulla Marrucina is the center of the winery. Today the estate includes vineyards and olive groves in all 4 provinces of Abruzzo (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo and l’Aquila). This gives the winery the unique ability to demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo’s terroir as the only producer in Abruzzo with vineyards in all four provinces.
The estate has grown to 350 hectares of vineyards and only estate grown grapes are used for their wine. They now have more than 60 plots of vineyards in 13 municipalities. They are the largest privately owned winery by vineyard size in Abruzzo. Attilio Alfino is the winemaker.
The three most important wine designations in Abruzzo are: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (red), Cerasuolo (rose), and Trebbiano D’Abruzzo (white). Abruzzo is the number five wine producing region in Italy.
Masciarelli Wines
Villa Gemma Bianco Colline Teatine 2022 IGT made from a blend of autoctinous varieties: 50% Trebbiano, 30% Pecorino and 20% Cococciola from the S. Martino sulla Marrucina vineyard at 400 meters, Ripa Teatina at 250 meters and the Loreto Aprutino at 350 meters. Training and pruning system is Abruzzo Curtain (Pergola Abruzzese). There are 1,600 plants per hectare and harvest is at the end of September. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and the wine is aged in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of aromatic herbs and citrus fruit with good acidity and nice minerality. This is a wine that can be drunk young. $24
Maria Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2020 DOC Made from 100% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from the S.Martino sulla Marrucina vineyard at 400 meters with 6,000 vines per hectare and the Bucchianico vineyard at 250 meters with 1,600 vines per hectare. Average age of vines is 18 to 20 years. The soil is clayey/medium calcareous. Vines are guyot and Pergola Abruzzese trained. Harvest takes place between October 10th and 20th. Cryo-maceration in press for 12 hours and the wine is fermented in new French oak barrels. Aging is in barriques for 12 months and in bottle for 6 to 12 months. The wine has hints of white peach, Sicilian almonds and floral notes. $60. This is a white wine that can age. $60
Villa Gemma Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo 2022 DOC Superiore made from100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the S. Martino sulla Marrucina vineyard at 400 meters. The exposure is southwest and the soil is clayey/medium limestone. There are 9,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Average age of the vines is about 30 years. Harvest is the second and third weeks of October. Destemming of the grapes is followed by 12 hours of permanence on the skins at 4C with fermentation at a controlled temperature. Aging on the lees for 3 months until bottling. The wine is cherry red in color, intense and fruity with hints of fresh cherry, pomegranate, and a touch strawberry. This is a wine that can be drunk young. $24
Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC 2019 made from 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo from S. Martino sulla Marrucino at 400 meters and from the Colle di Paolo, Fonte Filippo, Schiavone and Colle Rosina vineyards. The training system is simple guyot and spur cordon and Abruzzo pergola (canopy). There are 6,000 to 9,000 plants per hectare. The vines are 15 to 30 years old. Harvest takes place in the middle of October. Fermentation is in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days and maceration is for 20 to 30 days. The different crus are vinified separately with dedicated fermentation and maceration, and aged in barriques for 12 months. Then the crus are blended, bottled and aged in bottle for at least 6 months. This is a complex and intense wine that has hints of red fruit, black fruit, spice, and cherry. $38
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2018 Riserva “Villa Gemma” made from 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grown on steep, sloped Colle Cave vineyards in Chieti. The soil is limestone, clay and gravel. The training system is French guyot and the farming is sustainable. Average age of vines is 35 years. The exposure is southeast. Harvest is by hand and ends the last week in October. Fermentation is in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days, followed by a maceration of 23 to 30 days. Aging is for 12 months in 100% new French oak barriques, followed by 3 years in bottle before release. The wine has hints of blackberry, blueberry, dried red fruit, pumice, a touch of spice, and a hint of vanilla. This wine is approachable now but it will age for ten years of more. $98
In 2000, Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1995 was named “Best Wine in Italy” by Gambero Rosso. It was the first Montepulciano to ever receive this distinction. Over the years the wine has received many honors from the press.