Category Archives: Nero d’Avola

November 8, 2024 · 4:04 am

Sicilian Wine and the Monzu’s Turkey Stuffed with Pasta

For Thanksgiving dinner, friends asked Michele to prepare a turkey recipe that she had learned in Palermo, Sicily when she was leading culinary tours.  Michele and her group had dined at the home of a former caterer and chef.  Much of the menu was based on historical recipes that had been devised by the Monzu’, French-trained Sicilian chefs who cooked for the Palermitano nobility.  When Michele and her group visited, the chef made a roast turkey stuffed with pasta.  It was unique and delicious.  Michele has come up with her own version of the Monzu’s turkey, and we have enjoyed it for several Thanksgiving dinners.

For Thanksgiving this year, our dinner will once again have a Sicilian theme so I decided the match the meal with Sicilian wines.

We’ll start with shrimp dressed with olive oil, lemon, garlic and parsley.

“Fiordiligi”  Sicilian DOC Grillo 2023 Assuli (Trapani) Made from 100% Grillo. The production area in the Mazara del Vallo is in northwestern Sicily. Soil is of medium texture rich in limestone and good minerality. The vineyards are at 200/250 meters. Training system is guyot vertical trellis with a medium high plant density of 5,000 plants per hectare. Harvest is from the second week of September depending each year on the ripening of the grapes. There is an extremely soft pressing with membrane press, followed by static clarification of the must and fermentation at controlled temperatures (between 15°-18°C) in stainless steel tanks. Wine remains on the lees for 4/5 months in stainless steel tanks and the in bottle for at least 2/3 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, pineapple and a touch of tropical fruit. $18

The Monzu’s Turkey stuffed with pasta

Il Frappato Vittoria Frappato Sicily DOC 2020  Valle Dell’ Acate (southeast corner of Sicily) made from 100% Frappato. There are 80 hectares of organically cultivated vineyards. The vineyards are at 100 meters and the soil is black, relatively compact and riddled with white stones. The soil structure makes it possible for plant roots to oxygenate freely, extending down deep into the ground. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier. Harvest takes place the first week of September.  The wine is aged in steel vats for 6 months and in bottle for at least 3 months before release. This is a fresh aromatic wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, with a hint of violets and a touch of sage.

The extra pasta stuffing baked in a gratin dish.

Nerello Mascalese Terre Siciliane Vento di Mare IGT 2021 Cantine Ermes Soc. Coop. Agr. 100% Nerello Mascalese produced from organic grapes (Colline di Gibellina in Western Sicily) The soil is mainly sandy and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place in the middle of September. The wine is aged for about 4 months in stainless steel before it is bottled.  Plum, blackberry, black cherry, touch of smoke and a note of  leather with a spicy finish. $18

Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2021 Feudo Arancio Stemmari made from 100% Nero D’Avola (Sambuca di Sicilia, in the province of Agrigento). The soil is mostly clay and the training system is espalier. There are about 4,500 per hectare. Harvest is the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and alcoholic fermentation with the skins lasts a few days in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation occurs with selected bacteria and then the wine is aged for a long period in French barriques. The wine has hints of currants, strawberries, and pomegranate with a hint of blackberries and a touch of blueberries,  $20.

Biscotti Regina, Sicilian sesame cookies are always a favorite way to end a meal.

It’s time to start making your Thanksgiving Dinner plans!

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Filed under Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Sicilian Wine, Sicily, Thanksgiving 2024

August 1, 2024 · 12:59 am

Two Wines from Sicily with Dishes to Match

Michele and I have been enjoying Sicilian wines matched with some dishes which are not traditional to Sicily. The wines are versatile and can go with a wide variety of foods.  Below  are two wines and three of the dishes we matched with them.

Sicilia DOC “Dalila” Stemmari 2020 made from Grillo, a native Sicilian grape, and locally grown Viognier, a variety that originated in the Rhone Valley. The Grillo is harvested in mid-September. 70% of the grapes are destemmed and soft pressed while the other 30% undergoes maceration on the skins for several hours and then decantation of the must.  Selected yeasts are added and fermentation is carried out at a controlled temperature of 60°F for several days, followed by maturation in stainless steel tanks.
Viognier is harvested around the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and soft pressed and undergo decantation at 54°F for several hours. Selected yeasts are added and fermentation is carried out in 3-year-old barriques with light toasting, followed by long maturation in oak with periodic batonnage. 
The wines are blended after maturation, and then aged in stainless steel for an additional few months. The wine then remains in bottle until it is ready for release. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, peach, apricot, and citrus fruit with a note of honey.

We had this wine with Crostini topped with Butter and Anchovies.

Followed by Michele’s homemade Stracci Pasta with a Thousand Herbs, a recipe from her book, A Fresh Taste of Italy.

Sicilia DOC Nero d’Avola 2020 Lamǔri. Tenuta  Regaleali made from 100% Nero d’Avola at 450 to 750 meters.  The soil is sand silt-deep clay.  Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, maceration lasts for about 12 days. Malolactic fermentation is completed. The wine is aged for 12 months in 225 liter French oak barrels -Allier and Tronçais- 20% new and 80% second and third passage. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, and cherries with a note of spice and a long lasting finish.

Last but not least was Lamb Roasted with Peppers, Cherry Tomatoes, Eggplant and Onion

 

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July 11, 2024 · 3:20 am

Four Wines from Sicily with Dishes to Match

For the most part Michele and I like to match our meals with wine inspired by the same region as the food. Sometimes however we try dishes which are not traditional with the wine.

Sicily DOC Grillo 2022 Stemmari made from 100% Grillo. A varietal native to Sicily,  Grillo is the most famous white varietal on the island and was historically used for production of Marsala. The zone of production is Acate, in the province of Ragusa. This variety prefers typically sandy terrain that is sloped and gets a lot of sunlight. The type of farming is espalier, used with an average density of planting of 4500 plants per 2.5 acres. Grillo is an an average-to-late varietal with maturity reached about the second week in September. The collection of the grapes, pressing and destemming totally avoids the contact of the wine and must with oxygen during the stages of production, a method of vinification called “reduction.” The natural settling and fermentation take place at a controlled temperature for several days. Maturation on the lees is for a few months in steel tanks. The wine has hints of mango, papaya, jasmine. white flowers, a note of citrus and a touch of tropical fruit well balanced with a good acidity. $17

We had it with a roasted red snapper with raisins and pine nuts.  The delicate fruit flavors

The next three wines are based on Sicily’s Nero d’Avola grape variety. Nero d’Avola is the most important red wine grape grown in Sicily and its most important indigenous variety. The grape is named for the town of Avila in southern Sicily. The Nero d’Avola varietal is traditionally grown in the borough of Avola, a town located in the province of Siracusa, with evidence dating back to the 15th Century. In particular, this region is characterized by a mild climate in winte, partly due to the Monti Iblei, mountains shielding the area from north and north-west winds. Today the grape is cultivated  in every wine growing region of Sicily despite the diverse terrain of the Island.

Naturalmente BIO Nero d’Avola DOC 2021 Caruso & Minini made from 100% Nero D’Avola. The grapes are carefully selected and picked by hand. Maceration and fermentation of the destemmed grapes takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks for 15 to 20 days. 50% of the wine is aged in 225 liter barrels for 2 months and 50% in stainless steel. The wine is then placed in bottle for 2 months before release. The wine has hints of black fruit, plum, black cherry. a touch of chocolate, and a note of spice. $18

The winery is located on Sicily’s west coast near the town of Marsala. There are 120 hectares of vineyards at 200 to 400 meters.  The area, which was under water millions of years ago, is characterized by its alluvial soil, rich in water and organic substances. Most notable are the large stones called “cuti” in local dialect. The softball-sized cuti not only impart a distinct minerality to the grapes grown in them, but also soak up heat from the sun, which they transfer to the vines, allowing for an earlier ripening of the grapes thus making harvest possible at a stage which will allow for higher acidity in the wines.

We had it with a classic roast chicken and vegetables. Thanks to Susan Westmorland

Sicily DOC Riserva “Hedonis” Stemmari made from 100% Nero d’Avola. They cultivate their own vineyards along the  Southern coast of Sicily, on the two estates of Sambuca di Sicilia (AG) and Acate (RG). The production area is Sambuca di Sicilia in the province of Agrigento. The soil is mostly clay, the training system is espalier and an average of 4,500 plants per 2.5 acres. The exposure is east. The rich soils, warm climate with cooler nights from the elevated growing area in Sambuca di Sicilia allow for perfect maturation of the grapes that are harvested in mid-September. A partial selection of the grapes undergoes fermentation and maceration for several days with repeated pumping of must over the grapes dregs to extract the color and tannins, which give structure to the wine. After going through a full malolactic fermentation, the wine from this selection is aged in French American oak barrels for several months. Simultaneously, a second selection of grapes is allowed to hang longer on the vine in order to impart an additional level of fruit complexity and darker flavors. After its alcoholic fermentation and maceration, the wine is kept in stainless steel for several months. At the end of both aging periods, they make an assemblage with 50% of the wine aged in barrels and 50% of the wine made from a non-oaked aromatic blend of extra hang time grapes, creating a distinctive, rich and elegant wine.  This is a complex and elegant wine with hints of dried red fruit red currents, strawberry, spice, a touch of almond, a hint of vanilla and a trace of tobacco. $56

We had it with a grilled duck breast salad with oranges, hazelnuts and lettuce.

Appassimento “Nero Oro” Nero d’ Avola Appassimento Sicily DOC 2022 made from a carefully selected blend of fresh and dried Nero d’Avola grapes. Caruso & Minini

Appassimento: In mid September the selection of the best Nero d’Avola grapes are picked by hand. The grapes are dried using two distinct methods depending on the area the grapes come from. Both methods have been used in Sicily for centuries.  For the most gentle and natural appassimento, the grapes are left on the vine for longer then usual through the dehydration on the vines. An alternative method is to let the grapes dry on racks for 15 days. These grapes are dried until they have lost 10 to 15% of their original weight. The vinification process is very gentle. Destemming is followed by a particular soft pressing. There is frequent pumping over in the early part of fermentation after which malolactic fermentation takes place. This is a very intense wine with flavors of cherries, blackberries, blueberries a touch of dry prunes and a note of licorice. $12

We had it with some of my favorite cookies that Michele always keeps on hand.  Double chocolate hazelnut biscotti and ciambelline al vino flavored with anise seed.

 

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May 16, 2024 · 1:34 am

Three Wines with Dinner

Last week friends came over the dinner and I opened 3 bottles of wine that I had gotten as samples.  Our meal consisted of 3 courses.

Berlucchi ’61 Rosé Brut NV made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from the best vineyards in the 19 municipal areas of Franciacorta. The harvest takes place from the middle ten days of August to the first 10 days of September. There is a gentle, gradual pressing of clusters with fractioning of the must; alcoholic fermentation in steel vats. A few hours’ maceration of the Pinot Noir on the skins (rosé maceration) to emphasize the aromas and hue of the grape assemblage. The assemblage of the cuvée is in the spring following harvest with the contribution of 5% of reserve wine consisting of the previous year’s cuvée aged in stainless steel for one year. Second fermentation takes place in the bottles and maturation sur lie for a minimum of 24 months followed by an additional 2 months after disgorgement. Residual sugar 6.5g/l. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, cherry, strawberry, brioche and a touch of spice. The “61 line is a tribute to the “birth of Franciacorta in 1961 and to the year Berlucchi produced the first method  classico sparkling wine.” $45

Note: In 1955, Guido Berlucchi, the holder of the noble Berlucchi name, called enologist Franco Ziliani to his home in Lombardy to consult with Ziliani on how to improve his unstable white wines. Ziliani suggested instead creating French-style sparkling wines, and thus the Berlucchi wine dynasty was born in 1961 with the release of the winery’s first bottles. Soon after, in 1967, Franciacorta became a recognized designation due to Berlucchi and Ziliani’s experimentation. Today the winery is run by Ziliani’s three children. 

The wine was a perfect combination with crackers topped with smoked salmon and creme fraiche.

Grillo Sicilian DOC 2022 Stemmai made from 100% Grillo. The grape is native to Sicily and is used for the production of Marsala. Grillo prefers sandy terrain that is sloped and gets a lot of sunlight. The  training system is espalier and there are 450 plants per 2.5 acres. Grillo is an average-to late varietal with maturity reached about the second week in September. The collection of the grapes, pressing, and destemming is totally covered in the air (a method of vinification called “reduction”). The natural settling and fermentation take place at a controlled temperature of 18 degrees for 10 days. Maturation on the lees takes 5 months in steel tanks. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, notes of mango and papaya with a touch of jasmine and white flowers. $13. Note: Sustainably farmed.

With this wine, we had pasta con le sarde, pasta with sardines, raisins and fennel.

Nero D’ Avola  Sicilia  DOC “Gazzerotta” 2021 Tenuta di Famiglia-Pellegrino 1880. Made from 100% Nero d’Avola from the Gazzerotta Estate, Mazara del Vallo, Province of Trapani. The soil is clayey rich in minerals and the vineyard is at 20 meters. The vineyard is subject to water stress and at risk of high maximum temperatures due to its distance from the water. Harvest starts in mid-September. There is a long maceration at a controlled temperature until alcoholic fermentation is completed. The wine is then aged at least for 24 months in steel tanks and barriques. This is a soft red wine with good structure.  It has hints of red fruit, violets, sweet spice, cinnamon and a note of chestnut honey.$15

Note: Gazzerotta is the name for the elegant black and white magpies that fly over the bare fields in autumn.

We enjoyed this wine with rack of lamb crusted with Sicilian pistachios.

Everyone appreciated the opportunity to taste these fine wines for the first time.

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Filed under Berlucchi, Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Sparkling wine, Spumante

December 12, 2019 · 3:16 am

Red Wine and Steak at Restaurant Il Gattopardo NYC

Last week I posted an article on the white wines of Italy represented by Riccardo Gabriele of PR Comunicare Il Vino and Luca Tommasini of WinesCom Global Consulting. This article is about the red wines we tasted at Il Gattopardo.

We had a perfectly prepared steak with the red wines and it was a perfect combination with the red wines.

Castello di Mugazzena “Gargatura” IGT Tuscana 2017 made from 100% Syrah. The soil is clayey sandy terraced alluvial deposits. Training system is unilateral spurred cordon. Manual harvest. Grapes are destemmed and sorted. The grapes are pressed and then pumped into conditioned steel tanks where it ferments at a controlled temperature. There is pumping over, punching down and delestages. At the end of the alcoholic fermentation the wine is left to mature in contact with the skins between 10 and 30 days. The wine is separated from the marc and it is pressed. Malolactic fermentation is complete two weeks after. The course lees are removed and the wine is pumped into into French oak barrels, where it ages on the lees fro 12 to 18 months. The wine has hints of blueberries, black cherry and a note of black pepper.

 

Barone Sergio Sicilia Nero d’Avola Rosato “Luigia” 2018 made from100% Nero d’ Avola the vines are 10 years old and are at 70 meters. Fermentation takes place without the skins. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The wine matures in steel for 6 to 7 months and in bottle for 2 months before release. The wine has hints of strawberry and cherry with a touch of raspberry. Next time the red wines

 

I Balzini Black Label Dal Colli Della Tuscana Centrale PGI 2013 (WinesCom) made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The soil is of Pilocene orgin, sedimentary formations characterized by the presence of alternating strata of yellow sands and clay with a notable presence of marine fossils. Exposure is southwest with a north to south orientation of the rows. Working of the soil with a cordon de Royat training system. Manual harvest and grape selection. There is two weeks of skin contact and there is a complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is in French oak barrels for 12 to 14 months and 18 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of red and black berries, a hint a spice and a touch of vanilla

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2015 “Canalicchio,” Franco Pacenti WinesCom made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso. The vineyards are at 300 meters and the exposure is north-east. The soil is medium clay with a low density of vines per hectare, divided into six plots with an average age of 25 years and the training system is spurred cordon. . There is a strictly traditional vinification with prolonged maceration on the skins and long refinement in medium to large oak barrels. The wine has hints of cherries and mushrooms with a touch of spice and a hint of herbs.

La Regola Costa Tuscana Riserva IGT La Regola made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Red Mediterranean soil with an abundance of stones. The vineyards are at 150 to 200 meters. Hand havesting of grapes with a careful selection. Manual selection of the grapes and of the berries, medium maceration and alcoholic fermentation is in natural concrete vats at a controlled temperature. After malolactic fermentation the wine spends 18 months in new French barriques made in Burgundy and at least 12 months in bottle before release.This is a fruit forward wine characteristic of Cabernet Franc with a hint of spice and vanilla.

Barolo DOCG “Ravera” 2013 Giovanni Abrigo made from 100% Nebbiolo. The soil is Tortonian in origin, made up of laminated Saint’Agata fossil marl, with clay at 400 meters. The exposure is southeast and there are 4,500 plants per hectare. The training system is espalier in the vineyards with guyot pruning. The age of the vines is between 20 and 30 years. Harvest is by hand in mid October. Separate processing of grapes picked in different parts of the vineyard. Destemming and temperature controlled alcoholic fermentation in steel tanks, pumping over and toward the end of the fermentation-delestage. The duration of the submerged cap depends of on the quality of the vintage. Drawing off and spontaneous malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged for 38 months of which at least 18 months is in French oak barrels of varying capacity. Blending is in stainless steel tanks and the wine is bottled in the summer and released for sale in January four years from the harvest. This is a classic Barolo with hints of cherry, tar and licorice.

Beconcini “IXE”  The name is the Tuscan pronunciation for the letter X. The letter X stands for unknown vines. In the early 1950’s, 213 vines of unknown species were found in the vineyard which were called X vines. With help from the Ministry of Agriculture these vines were declared to be Tempranillo a few years ago. In June of 2009, Tempranillo was enrolled in the Tuscan register. As far as I know Tempranillo was never cultivated before in Italy.

The IGT is Tuscany Tempranillo. This wine is made from 99.9% of Tempranillo and a touch of Sangiovese. The winery is located in the town of San Miniato. The vineyard is 3.5 hectares and the grapes are all from the new vineyards planted in 1997 using a massal selection from buds taken from the century old vines of Tempranillo from the Vigna alle Nicchie. The training is spurred cordon. Soil is sandstone with marine fossil formation, well integrated with abundant clay. 100/150 meters above sea level and there are 7,000 vines per hectare. Harvest the first 10 days of September. The grapes are dried for 4 weeks and they obtain a total yield of 70%. Fermentation takes place in temperature controlled glass lined cement vats, maceration is for 3 weeks. Aging lasts for 14 months in 70% French barriques and 30% American oak barriques of second passage. 6 months in bottle before release. First passage in barriques is for the wine from the grapes of the historical vineyard Vigna alle Nicchie that goes into the wine of the same name.

This origin of this grape variety is not known for certain. Via Franchigena was an old Roman road, which was used by pilgrims in the 17th century to make the pilgrimage to and from Santiago de Compostela (Rioja) in Spain to Rome. This road passed close to the town of San Miniato near where the winery is now located. Spanish pilgrims may have carried the Tempranillo seeds and actually sowed them in the vicinity of San Miniato as was the custom of the time. Scientists have determined that the vines were from seeds, not cuttings. Legend has it that a local priest tended the vines not knowing their origin. Not imported.

Montefalco Sagrantino 2015 Bocale made from 100% Sagrantino. The vineyard is treated with natural grass regeneration techniques (land planting), using only organic and mineral fertilizers without the use of chemical products or herbicides. Fermentation is with natural yeasts and the wine is produced without microfiltration and thermal stabilization. Manual harvest takes place the second half of October. Vinification: maceration for at least 40 days with natural enzymes. Stabilization and filtration do not take place. The wine is aged in 1,000 liter French oak barrels for 24 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries and currants with a touch of spice. I was very impressed with this wine.

Tommasi Amarone Classico 2009 made from 50% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. The vines are on hillside terraces; the training system is high-density guyot. The Groletta and Conca d’Oro vineyards are located in the area of classic historical Valpolicella. The grapes are hand harvested and placed in plastic boxes which hold 5/6 kg. Then they are put on wooden racks to dry where cooling breezes in the autumn and winter until January dry them. This drying period is known as the appassimento. Annalisa said that this is an active period where the grapes lose about 50% of their weight and there is a concentration of the natural sugar. The wine is aged for 3 years in large Slavonian oak barrels. Residual sugar is 8g/l and the alcohol is 15.50%. This is a elegant, complex and full-bodied wine that has aromas of ripe fruit with hints of cherries, dries figs, prunes and a touch of hazelnut.

 

 

 

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Filed under Barolo, Brunello, Italian Red Wine, IXE, Nero d'Avola, Riccardo Gabriele, sagrantino, Tommasi, Uncategorized

May 16, 2016 · 5:01 am

The Wine Media Guild Sicily Tasting: The Red Wines

At the Wine Media Guild’s recent tasting and lunch at Felidia Restaurant, we tasted 12 red wines from Sicily ranging in price from $12.99 to $159.99 for the Santa.Ne from Palari, the only wine in the group not made from native grapes.

Alessandro Dellascenza

Alessandro Dellascenza

Alessandro Dellasenza from Cru Artisan Wines/Banfi spoke the wines of Palari as well as the other wines he presented. I spoke about the remaining wines.

The Red Wines of Sicily

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Frappato 2013 DOC Paterno di Vittoria, 100% Frappato Golden Ram Imports NYC, David Rosengarten Selections, $18. Maceration is for four days with skin contact and temperature controlled fermentation. The wine spends one month in steel and one month in bottle before release. This is a well-balanced, aromatic wine with hints of cherry and pomegranate.IMG_0198

Frappato 2014 Planeta, 100% Frappato Palm Bay $21.99 De-stemming followed by 12 days maceration, after racking, malolactic in stainless steel. The wine should be drunk 3 years from the vintage. This is light bodied aromatic wine with hints of spice and red fruit.IMG_0199

Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2014 DOCG Planeta, Nero d’ Avola 60% Frappato 40% Palm Bay $ 23.99. The grapes are de-stemmed and crushed, extraction on the skins and 8 days of maceration. After racking, malolactic fermentation takes place in steel tanks. This is a fruity wine with hints of strawberries, cherries and figs with a long finish.IMG_0201

Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2012 DOCG Paterno di Vittoria 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frappato, Golden Ram Imports NYC $25. Vinified in stainless steel for 15 days. The wine is aged for 6 months is stainless steel, 6 months in barriques and 6 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with good red berry flavors and aromas with a long finish and nice aftertaste.IMG_0206

Nero D’Avola 2014 Cusumano 100% Nero d’Avola Tony di Dio Selections $12.99. Production zone San Giacomo, Butera. The vines are 14 years old and the exposure south, southeast. Training system is espalier and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. This is a fruity easy drinking wine and a great value.IMG_0207

Nero d’Avola Riserva Sicilia “Don Antonio” 2011 Morgante 100% Nero d’Avola Winebow $42. The vines grow in white calcareous soils with small amounts of clay at 500/550 meters. Harvest takes place at the end of September. Vinification is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature with 20 days skin contact. Malolacatic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is aged for 12 months in new French Allier and Troncais 225 liter barriques, followed by 12 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of cherry, raspberry and violets with a touch of leather and liquorice.IMG_0208

 Rosso del Conte Contea di Sclafani DOC 2010 Tasca d’ Almerita Nero d’Avola 63% and 37% other red grapes Winebow $70 Production area Palermo, Sicily. The soil is fine clay slightly calcareous and the vineyard was planted in 2002. It is at 650 meters with a south-west exposure. The training system is bush and espalier, with short spur pruning. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the harvest is in the beginning of October. Traditional red wine fermentation in stainless steel and maceration for 20 days. The wine is aged for 18 months in new French oak, Allier and Troncais 225 liter barriques and ten 6 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of cherries and herbs with a touch of vanilla and tobacco.IMG_0209

Etna Rosso “Martinella” 2010 DOP Vivera (the winery is 100% certified organic) 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio Montcalm $39.99 Located in Linguaglossa, Contrada Matinell on the northern-eastern slope of Mont Etna. The vineyard was planted in 2003 at 600 meters, volcanic soil with abundant rounded stones. Vertical trellis, spur pruned cordon and there are 5,500 plants per hectare. The grapes are carefully selected and hand picked the first week of October. Cold maceration is followed by fermentation at controlled temperatures for 10 days. The wine is racked and aged in 225 French barriques for about one year. It is refined in bottle for another 12 months before release. The wine hints of sweet red fruit and a note of bitter chocolate.IMG_0210

  Etna Rosso “Rovittello” 2013 DOC 100% Nerello Mascalese Benanti Tradizione Imports $20 The countryside of Rovittello, on the north side of Mt. Etna in the commune of Castiglione di Sicilia. It is a single vineyard grown as alberello (free standing bush) at 750 meters. The soil is sandy, volcanic and very rich in minerals. The vines are 80 years old and there are 9,000 vines per hectare. Harvest takes place the second week of October and the grapes are late ripening. Traditional vinification takes place, with long maceration of the must with the skins. After malolatic fermentation, the wine matures in small casks of 225 liters for more than one year and 8 to 10 months in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of red fruit and a touch of vanilla.IMG_0211

Rosso del Soprano (the red from the heights) 2011 Palari Cru Artisan Wines-Banfi $58.99 Made from the same grapes as the Faro below. The wine is aged in one-year barrels of Troncais and Allier oak. It is bottled unfiltered and rests for another year until release. The wine has hints of red berries and spice.IMG_0212

Faro (lighthouse) 2009 DOC Palari Cru Artisan Wines- Banfi $99.99 made from 60% Nerello Mascalese, 1% Cor’e Palumba, 2% Jacche 15% Nocera, 20% Nerello Cappuccio and 2% Acitana. The grapes are grown in vineyards located in Santo Stefano Briga (Messina), in sandy soil. After a soft pressing and fermentation with native yeasts in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, the wine is aged in new barrels of Troncais and Allier oak for at least 12 months. The wine is bottled unfiltered and remains in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of ripe red fruit, spice, jasmine and a touch of vanilla.IMG_0213

Santa.Ne 2008 Palari Cru Artisan Wines-Banfi $159.99 Made from 100% “A Francisa.” Alessandro explained that over 150 years ago the farmers found a unusually clay-rich plot of land and decided to plant grapes from France. Over the years the vines adapted to the land and the farmers no loner remembered what was planted there. So in dialect they called it “A Francisa”–the grapes from France. It is a single vineyard in the heights of Santo Stefano Briga (Messina). Following the pressing of the grapes and fermentation with native yeasts at controlled temperature the wine rests for 24 months in barrels of Troncais oak and at least 2 years more in bottle unfiltered 2 years before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, tobacco, leather and spice with a touch of vanilla.

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Filed under Banfi, Benanti Winery, Cerasuolo di Vittorio, Cusumano winery, Don Antonio, Faro, Frappato, Italian Red Wine, Italian Wine, Nero d'Avola, Palari, Planeta, Rosso Del Conte, Rosso del Soprano, Santa.Ne, Uncategorized, Vivera

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January 4, 2016 · 7:46 am

Tenuta Gigliotto: Sicilian Wine The Way I Like It

It is very rare that I go to a tasting where all of the wines reflect the terroir and the grapes they are made from. This was the case when I tasted the wines of Tenuta Gigliotto at I Trulli restaurant in NYC last month.

The Gigliotto winery is 9 Km from Piazza Armerina (famous for its Roman mosaics, 360AD) in Sicily.

At the tasting and lunch there was not one wine that was international in style or “made for the American market”, which I appreciated very much.

Elio Savoca

Elio Savoca

Tenuta Gigliotto is a family business managed by Elio Savoca, who hosted the tasting. Elio spoke about the winery and how they now welcome paying guests on their property at their agriturismo.

He told us that for the last 20 years the winery has been under organic management. Organic for them is the result of a natural and spontaneous process and above all a respect for nature. Elio is also very interested in the history of Sicily and the wines are named after persons or places of historical importance. One wine is named for Count Ruggero, later Roger I of Sicily, who is credited not only for driving the Arabs from Piazza Amerina but also from all of Sicily.

Angelo Alescio

Angelo Alescio

The wine maker, Angelo Alescio, spoke about the wine. He said there are 20 hectares of vines and the soil is generally sandy. All the vineyards have a southern exposure and are at 400 meters. There is a strong wind, which comes from the sea 25km away and has a strong influence on the vines. The training system is Guyot.

He said vinification is carried out under inert gas using cross-flow filters for filtering the wine. It is a less invasive and more effective method. They use French oak barrels and chestnut barrels. Angelo made the point of saying that the use of chestnut was the way wine was processed and aged in the past in Sicily because it was readily available.IMG_9400

Santa Chiara Dry Moscato made from 100% Moscato. This is a very interesting wine. On the bouquet and on the palate it has all the slightly sweet fruity flavors of the Moscato grape but the finish and aftertaste is dry so that it is a wine which can go with food.IMG_9403

White Wine IGT Sicily “Venere” 100% Chardonnay. There are 4,800 plants per hectare and the grapes are picked by hand the second half of August. The grapes are softly pressed by using a pneumatic press. The must ferments in steel tanks with the traditional cold method and temperature control system. About 30% of the wine is fermented in wooden barrels. The wine is then aged in the bottle for several months before release.IMG_9404

Rose Wine IGT Sicily “Kanzir” made from 100% Nero d’Avola. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the grapes are hand picked in the second and third weeks of September. Traditional white wine vinification, after the grapes are slightly pressed. The must is fermented in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with the yeast that is on the skins. The wine is aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 3 months in bottle before release. It has nice red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of raspberries and a touch of almonds.IMG_9392

Red Wine DOP Sicily “San Michele” made from 100% Frappato. There are 5,000 vines per hectare and harvest takes place the last week of September. Traditional fermentation at controlled temperature. The wine is aged at least 12 months in stainless steel and barrel. This is very aromatic wine with fresh red berry flavors and aromas and a hint of spice and notes of roses.IMG_9391

Red Wine IGT Sicily “Vossia” made from 100% Nero d’Avola. There are 5,000 vines per ha and the harvest takes place the second and third weeks of September. The wine is fermented and macerated under controlled temperatures for 10 days. Aged in casks for 6 months. This is an aromatic wine with hints of red berries, violets, spice and a touch of almonds.IMG_9396

Red Wine Sicily IGT made from 100% Nero d’Avola this is a more intense version of the wine above.IMG_9388

Red Wine IGT Sicily “Conte Ruggero” 100% Petit Verdot. There are 4.500 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place the second and third weeks in September. Vinification is the same as above. The wine is aged for 12 months in barrel. The wine has hints of raspberries and cherries with a nice finish and pleasant after taste.IMG_9395

Merlot “Campione De Vasca 2014” made from 100% Merlot. This is vinified like the wine above. It was one of the few times which I have tasted merlot that was so true to the grape.IMG_9386 

Patrisano Dessert Wine made from 100% Zibibbo (White Moscato) There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the harvest takes place in November. It is a late harvest and the grapes are picked after they wither on the vines. Traditional wine vinification takes place at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in steel tanks and French oak barrels. It has hints of mature fruits along with honey and a touch of spice with a long finish and very pleasing aftertaste.

 

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October 19, 2015 · 4:44 am

A Sicilian Family Winery

Benedetto Alessandro, the oenologist of the Alessandro di Camporeale winery in Sicily, was the speaker at a tasting I attended recently of his company’s wines.

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Benedetto Alessandro

This is a fourth generation family-owned and operated winery located in the small farming town of Camporeale, close to Palermo. The estate is at the foot of a hill overlooking the Mandranove Plain. There are 35 hectares of vineyards at about 400 meters. The climate is mild and the fertile clay and limestone-based soil are ideal for producing a wide variety of different grapes. He made a point of saying that the approach in the vineyard follows the overall values of tradition, experience and knowledge of the land. All vine related activities are carried out by hand, following organic farming principles such as biodiversity to combat parasites and using green manure to promote soil fertility.

The wines of Alessandro di Camporeale IMG_8816

Catarratto “Benedè” DOC Sicily 2014 100% Cataratto. The vines were planted in 1990 and are at 420 to 470 meters. The soil is clay and sand, the training system is guyot and there are 3,500 plants per hectare. Harvesting is by hand starting the 10th day of September. The grapes are destemmed and cooled, then a soft pressing takes place. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a low temperature for 15 days. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation. It is aged for 6 months in stainless steel and another 2 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apricot and white peach with a hint of almonds in the aftertaste. $19IMG_8817

Grillo “Vigna di Mandranov” DOC Sicily 2013. 100% Grillo. The vineyard was planted in 2009. It is at 450 meters, the soil is clay, the training system is guyot espalier and there are 4,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand starting in the beginning of September. After destemming, the grapes are cooled and gently pressed in an oxygen free environment. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a low temperature for 15 days. The wine is aged in stainless steel for 6 months and in bottle for 1 to 2 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus fruit with touches of flint and herbs. A very nice example of this type of wine. $29IMG_8818

Nero d’Avola “Donnatá” Sicily DOC 2013 100% Nero di Avola. The soil is rich in clay, limestone and potassium. The vines were planted in 2000. The vineyard is at 380 meters. The soil is clay and sand, training system is spurred cordon espalier and there are 4,400 vines per hectare. Harvest starts by hand, the first week of September. Maceration is for 12 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in stainless steel and a small part in big oak casks. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 months before release. This is an aromatic wine with hints of blackberries and cherries with a very pleasing finish and aftertaste.

Benedetto said that Nero d’Avola was the most important red grape variety in Sicily. $19IMG_8821

Syrah Kaid l IGT Sicily 2011 100% Syrah The soil is clay and chalk with an alkaline reaction. The vines were planted in 1989, the training is spurred cordon espalier and there are 4,400 plants per hectare. The grapes are picked by hand in the morning the first 20 days of September. Maceration is for 12 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 12 months in barriques and tonneaux and 6 months in bottle before release. This is a big wine, alcoholic with hints of cherry and black currants with a lot of vanilla, toasty oak and coconut. One of the wine writers present said that he likes the first 3 wines but this wine was out of balance and much too international in style. Benedetto agreed and said that starting with the next vintage 2012 they are using less barriques and more tonneaux and big oak casks .$25

He also said that Syrah is considered the “most Sicilian of the international grape varieties”.IMG_8822

Kaid “ Vendemmia Tardive” Late Harvest 2014 IGT Sicily 100% Syrah from a 1.5 hectare plot. The vineyard is at 400 meters and the vines were planted in 1989. Fermentation is for about 12 days at a low temperature. The wine is aged in Allier oak barriques for 15 months and in bottle for 6 months before release. This is a dessert wine with nice rich forward fruit with hints of cherries, black currants and a touch of chocolate. It has a very pleasing aftertaste and a very long and complex finish. $35

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