Recently I had an opportunity to taste a range of fine wines from the Abruzzo Region of Italy.
Located to the east of Rome, the region of Abruzzo has everything going for it. There are beautiful national parks, a long coastline on the Adriatic, the rugged snowcapped Apennine Mountains, and little medieval towns perched precariously on hilltops. Abruzzo is situated between the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso and Majella massif. It is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy with three national parks and more than ten national and regional natural reserves. Abruzzo geographically is more central than southern Italy, but due to its connection with the old Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, it is considered part of the South. Abruzzo is divided into four provinces: L’Aquila, Teramo, Pescara, and Chieti. Over two-thirds of the wine in Abruzzo is produced by cooperatives.
Most vineyards are in hilly areas of which 75% are in the province of Chieti. The traditional vine training method is the Tendone system also known as Pergola Abruzzese. The vines are grown along vertical posts and wires to a height of about 6 feet. The vines are planted 2 meters apart in parallel rows 2 meters apart. The leaves grow over the top to form a canopy (pergola) to protect the grapes from the hot Abruzzo sun. The Tendone has always been the way to grow table grapes in the area and it is easier to pick the grapes without having to bend down.
Tasting the Wines
The three most important wine designations in Abruzzo are: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (red), Cerasuolo (rose), and Trebbiano D’Abruzzo (white). Recently Pecorino (white) has become more important. In terms of the quantity of wine produced, the Abruzzo region is seventh in Italy.
Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Terre di Chieti Superiore Bio Aime 2025 Cascina Del Colle. Made from 100% Pecorino. This is a family-owned organic winery located in Villamagna. The winery was established in 1997 by the D’Onofrio family. The estate spans roughly 18 hectares of vineyards and olive groves situated about 300 meters above sea level, sitting in a unique microclimate between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea. The winery specializes in native Abruzzo grape varieties and is famously known for hand-numbering every single bottle it produces. The vineyards face east/north east at 121 meters. Soil is of a medium texture and the training system is spurred cordon row. Vinification is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged for 4 months in stainless steel. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, green apple, and a touch of apricot.
Abruzzo DOC Pecorino made from 100% Pecorino Avalos Lauri. The wine is produced in the Colline Pescaresi PGI/DOC area within Loreto Aprutino. The estate vineyards were planted 2004 at 359 meters in calcareous soil. Grapes are carefully selected and harvested by hand in mid September. The grapes are completely destemmed and undergo a period of skin contact at cool temperatures to pull maximum aromatics from the skins without extracting bitter tannins. There is a gentle pneumatic press used to softly extract the high-quality free-run juice. The clarified grape must undergoes alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 12 days. Temperatures are maintained strictly between 16–18 °C to preserve delicate floral and fruit volatile compounds. The wine is aged entirely in stainless steel (no oak contact) and rests in the bottle for two months before release to maintain its clean, vibrant profile. The winery utilizes renewable energy and has certified its wines as 100% vegan. It has hints of ripe pear, green apple, apricot, jasmine, and citrus aromas, balanced by a crisp mineral finish.
Ottobre Rosso Montepulciano D’ Abruzzo made from 100% Montepulican0 Production area Villamagna (Chieti) Tenuta I Fauri The soil is clay calcareous. There are 3,000 vines per hectare and the training and pruning method is single curtain. Fermentative maceration is for 10/12 days in concrete vats and then racking. The wine is aged for 9 months in concrete vats. This is a wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, clove, orange peel a touch of spice and a hint of herbs. The winery was certified organic with the 2021 vintage. I visited the winery a few years ago and tasted the wines on a number of occasions and was always impressed with them. This is an elegant wine with hints of wild cherry, raspberry, strawberry with a touch of spice and a hint of licorice.
Cerasuolo D’Abruzz0 Superiore 2025 Tenutarossa made from 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. It is the flagship wine line produced by the Pasetti Vini winery, a renowned family-run estate The line serves as the winery’s “crown jewel.” The name honors the striking heritage of red-haired women within the Pasetti family. The grapes are cultivated high in the Pescosansonesco vineyards, situated at 550 meters above sea level within the foothills of the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park. The soil is clay-calcareous rich in organic matter. There are dramatic day-to-night temperature swings balanced by refreshing Adriatic Sea breezes. Clay-calcareous land rich in organic matter. Manual harvest takes place in late October and early November. The juice undergoes skin-contact maceration and alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for 8 to 10 days. This is followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine has hints blackberry, dark cherry, and stewed plum, soil, tobacco, leather, and cocoa.
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Colline Teramane Neromoro Fattoria Nicodemi !100% Montepulciano from the Tramo hills at 300 meters. The soil is of medium textured limestone and clay. There are 1,600 plants per hectare and the training system is Abruzzo pergola. Average age of the vines is 50 years. Harvest takes place the second 10 days in October. The grapes are destemmed followed by a maceration of 15 to 20 days with fermentation in vertical vats. Aging is in new and second passage barriques for 16 to 18 months. There is racking but no fining or filtration before bottling. The wine remains in the bottle for 6 months before release. The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, black currant and a note of balsamic.
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva Duca Thaulero made from 100% Montepulciano. The Cantina Casal Thaulero takes its name from the small town of Casal Thaulero (TE) where the rolling hills of Abruzzo meet the Adriatic Sea which takes its name from Duke Giovanni Thaulero, the grandfather of Abruzzo viticulture. Grapes are carefully picked by hand to prevent the skins from bruising before they reach the crushing pads. The juice ferments in stainless steel vats directly in contact with the grape skins. This contact allows the alcohol to extract anthocyanins (color) and rich, structural tannins from the skins. After the initial alcoholic fermentation, a natural secondary bacterial fermentation occurs. This converts sharp malic acid into smooth lactic acid, giving the wine its signature velvety texture. The wine undergoes an extensive aging period in large oak barrels. The wood interaction oxygenates the wine, softening the tannins and adding complex secondary notes of leather, prune, blackberry, spice, and dark balsamic. I have a long history with Cantina Casal Thaulero going back many years and they introduced me to the wines of Abruzz0. The wine has hints of black cherry, blackberries, plums, tobacco and a note of licorice.
Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva 2015 “Casauria” Podere Castorani made from 100% Montepulciano. The training system is the traditional overhead “pergola” trellis system of the Abruzzo region. The soil is deep clay with many underground rocks. Harvest is by hand the beginning of November with grape selection. Fermentation is in concrete tanks with manual pump over and delestages and extended maceration. Malolactic fermentation is completed during skin maceration. The wines ages on the lees in oak barrels and then for 6 months in concrete tanks. Finally the wine remains in bottle for 15 months before release. The wine has hints of cherry, cranberries, licorice, a touch of spice and a note of tobacco.
It was a pleasure for me to reacquaint myself with these wines.
