“Understanding Italy Through Wine — Territory and Terroir: the Excellence of Italian Wine as Expressed by Coldiretti Producers” was an event that I attended recently. It was held at the Columbus Citizens Foundation, NYC
Coldiretti (Confederazione Nazionale Coltivatori Diretti) is Italy’s largest agricultural organization, representing hundreds of thousands of independent farmers, wine makers, and food producers. Founded in 1944, it champions authentic Italian-origin products, defends farmers’ rights, and connects agricultural producers directly with consumers mountainous terrain and sandy soils of volcanic origin. Italy has a continental climate with Mediterranean influences, characterized by cold winters and summers with strong temperature variations between night and day.
Here are the wines that we enjoyed that day.
DOC Etna Rosso Sul Vulcano 2022 – DONNAFUGATA Made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from Eastern Sicily, on the northern slopes of Etna, on the estate of the Municipality of Randazzo and in other particularly suitable areas. Elevation 600/700 meters. Mountainous terrain and sandy soils of volcanic origin. Vineyards grown using the Etna “alberello” head-trained bush practice and VSP (Vertical Shoot Positioning) training methods with spurred cordon pruning. Sloping terrains are traditionally cultivated on terraces cordoned off by dry lava stone walls. Grapes are collected in crates with the grapes carefully sorted at the vineyard. The Nerello Mascalese grape harvest began at the end of September and concluded on October 12. On arriving at the winery, the bunches are further sorted on the vibrating table and then selected using a next-generation destemmer which selects only perfectly ripe grapes, removing green and overripe grapes. Fermentation in steel with maceration on the skins at a controlled temperature. Aging partly in tanks and partly in second and third-passage barriques for around 18 months, and then for at least 18 months in the bottle before the release. The wine has hints of spice, sour cherry, strawberries a hint of fresh balsamic and touch of violet. The volcanic goddess on the label is a reminder of Etna, an active volcano. I have always enjoyed the wines of Donnafugata and have visited some of their different locations.
DOCG Vermentino di Gallura Cucaione 2025 – PIERO MANCINI made from 100% Vermentino from the northwest corner of Sardegna. The vines were planted between 2000/2005. Soil is granite and the vineyard is at 100/350 meters and facing southeast. Harvest is from late August to early September. They do not use herbicides or pesticides but reserve the right to use fungicides if it means saving the crop. Controlled low temperature fermentation in stainless steel with conventional yeasts. Aging is for 3-6 months on the lees in stainless steel. Fined with bentonite, coarse filtration before bottling. The wine has hints of peach, herbs, tangerine a touch of green apple and a bitter almond finish.
DOCG Friuli Colli Orientali Friulano – LA VIARTE made fron 100% Tocai grown using the double upside-down and Guyot training system. There are 4,000 vines per hectare at 100/200 meters. The exposure is east and southeast. Soil is of Eocene origin locally know as “ponca” which consists of layers of marl and sandstone. Manual harvest is followed be a soft pressing of the grapes. Then vinification in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Malolactic fermentation does not take place.The wine remains on the lees in stainless steel tanks for 6 months and in the bottle for a least 3 months before it is released for sale. This is a complex wine with hints of white peach, hay and thyme with good minerality and an almond finish.
DOP Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Coste di Moro Bio Cantina Sociale Orsogna made from 100% Montepulcino D’Abruzzo. This is a certified organic, biodynamic, and vegan red wine produced by Cantina Orsogna in Italy. Cantina Orsogna, created in 1964, is a cooperative company of 450 partners. It is the largest producer of organic and biodynamic wines in the south centre of Italy. It has more than 1,100 hectares of vines, 80% is certified organic, and 30% is certified biodynamic by Demeter. Cantina Orsogna has been certified biodynamic since 2005 and has been organic produced for more than 30 years. This full-bodied wine features hints of black cherry, blackberry and plum with a touch of cocoa and a note of licorice.
DOCG Vernaccia DI San Gimignano Riserva 2013 “Sanice” Cesani madę from 100% Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, certified organic since 2010. Soil is of medium textured silty-sandy with Pliocene marine deposits.The grapes, all hand-picked and selected for maturation, variety and plot, are carried every hour to the cellars where the wine is made. Fermentation in stainless steel at controlled temperatures with indigenous yeast. No maceration or malolactic fermentation. Soft filtration and bottling February-March after harvest. The wine is aged with the lees for 3 to 4 months in stainless steel.The refining of the bottled wine takes place in rooms located within an old agricultural outbuilding recently restored, buried on three sides and with constant temperature and humidity. This is a crisp white wine has hints of green apple, citrus fruit, a touch of lemon and a bitter almond finish.
DOCG Brunello Di Montalcino “Tenuta Nova” 2019 Casanove di Nevi made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is located south of Montalcino at 275/320 meters and the soil is galestro with tuff and clay. There are 4,000 vines per hectare and the plants are 25/30 years old. The raining system is spur-pruned cordon and the winery is organic but not certified. The wine is unfiltered and it is aged in 500-liter oak tonneau for 36 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a full-bodied wine with hints of blackberry, black cherry, plum and a touch of violets and a note of spice. It is a classic Brunello which I have have been drinking for many years.