April 2, 2026 · 1:56 am

The Wines of Vallevo in Abruzzo

It is always a pleasure to be invited  to a tasting of Vallevo wines from  Cantina Sociale Frentana, located in the town of Rocco San Giovanni in the Chieti area of Abruzzo. The tasting was organized by The Wine Emporium, importer of the wine.

The tasting took place at the Masseria Dei Vini in NYC. The speaker was Dott. Felice Di Biase, the sales manger for Cantina Frentana. He spoke about the winery, the Vallevo wines and the picturesque Costa Trabocchi.

The picture on the label is of a trabocco, a characteristic site in this part of Abruzzo.  Fishermen traditionally built these wooden piers topped with a shed that jut far out from the shore from which to catch fish. Some of them have been turned into restaurants. When I visited the winery a few years ago, I enjoyed all the wine and had lunch on a trabocco.

The Vallevo Wines

Trebbiano D’Abruzzo  DOC 2024 100% Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.  The vines are 15-20 years old and have a North/North East exposure. The grapes are soft pressed and native yeasts are added.  Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. Malolatic fermentation does not take place. The wine is aged in stainless steel for five months before it is bottled. It has aromas and flavors of citrus fruits, yellow plums, a hint of white flowers and good acidity.

Costa Dei Trabocchi Rosato Terre Di Chieti IGT Made from 100% Montepulciano. The soil is of medium texture, with some clay and limestone. The vineyard is situated on hills overlooking the Trabocchi Coast with a northeast exposure at 150 to 200 meters. Vinification is with a Provencal technique without pressing in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Skin contact is only for 3 hours but the wine remains on the lees for 2 weeks in steel tanks to capture the flavor of the grapes. The must is stirred for about one week at 5C. Fermentation is in steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Aging is in steel followed by a few months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of strawberries and raspberries a touch of grapefruit and a note of watermelon.

Historically, a Rosato in Abruzzo is called Cerasuolo. The name became the subject of a discussion at the table. Franco Bengazi of The Wine Emporium said that for clarity, it was better for the American market to include the word Rosato on the label. Marco Melzi, also of The Wine Emporium, believed that they should go back to using Cerasuolo and the American consumer will understand.  Dott. Biase indicated that it would be in keeping with the traditional and historical name of  the area to use Cerasuolo. Personally, I think that using both Cerasuolo and Rosato on the label would be helpful for consumers.

Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC made from 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. The soil is muddy clay. After pressing and destemming, fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 7 to 10 days. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in stainless steel until it is ready to be bottled. This is a fruity, medium bodied wine with hints of plum, black cherry, and violets with a touch of black olives and herbal notes.

The Montepulciano grape produces Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Montepulciano is the most planted grape in Abruzzo and is grown on about 17,000 hectares. It represents 80% of the total DOC wine produced in Abruzzo. The Montepulciano grape has been in Abruzzo since the mid-17th Century. Dott. Biase also pointed out that it is the second or third most-planted grape in Italy.

Costa Dei Trabocchi Montepulciano Dei Abruzzo DOC Riserva made from 100% Montepulciano from Rocco San Giovanni on the best-situated hills overlooking the Costa dei Trabocchi. The soil is medium texture, mostly clay and the vines are 10-15 years old.  The exposure is south, southeast. The grapes are soft pressed and fermentation takes place in stainless steel with skin contact for 10 to 15 days depending on the vintage. The wine is aged in 500 liter barrels of Allier oak for about 14 months, then in steel, and finally in bottle until it is ready for release. This is a full bodied wine that has aromas and flavors of violets, plums and black cherry with a slight touch of vanilla.

These wines are are about $20 and therefore a great value.

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March 26, 2026 · 2:23 am

Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Tasting NYC

The Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri tasting is held annually at the Metropolitan Pavilion in NYC.   It is one of the best ways I know to taste a range of the best Italian wines, meet with the producers, and catch up with friends in the wine industry.

The Three Glasses (Tre Bicchieri) Award was presented this year to 508 elite Italian wines, showcasing high-quality producers to importers and restaurateurs at the event on March 5th, 2026. Tre Bicchieri is the highest award The Gambero Rosso Guide to Italian Wines, a very important guide, can give to a wine.

While the primary Tre Bicchieri awards are reserved for exceptional wines, Gambero Rosso also announced its Top Italian Restaurant 2026 awards for NYC-based establishments during the event.

My favorite pizzeria,  Kestè, was once again one named as one of the top New York restairants, recognized for the third consecutive year with Due Spicchi (two slices) for its excellence in pizza. (Due Spicchi della Guida Pizzerie d’Italia del Gambero Rosso.)

Pizzaiolo Roberto Caporuscio, 0wner of Kesté Pizza e Vino in Wall Street (NYC) holding his award.

Here are just some of the wines I tasted at the event:

Falanghina Del Sannio “Biondo Re” DOP made from 100% Falanghina FontanAvecchia.  The vineyard is at 350 meters and the soil is argillaceous with lime rich marlstone outcrops. The training system is guyot and harvest is the third week of September. Vinification with direct pressing of the grapes at a controlled temperature. Fermentation lasts for 7 days. The wine is aged in steel before it is bottled. It has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, lime, melon with a touch of green apple. I visited this winery a few years ago on a press trip with Campania Stories and I am a big fan of Falanghina. 

This is a family run winery under the direction of Libero Rillo. I have know Libero for a number of years and I always order this wine when I am in restaurant Al Pompiere in Roma.

Pecorino Abruzzo DOC Tenuta I Fauri Abruzzo Pecorino DOC  made from 100% Pecorino. The soil is clay calcareous and the training and pruning methods are tendone, single curtain/rows (spur training). There are 1,600/3,000 vines per hectare. Static decanting of the must takes place, followed by a soft pressing. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature and the wine is aged in stainless steel. The wine is bottled at the end of February. The wine has hints of apple and honey and a touch of mint.

Valentina Di Camillo, a member of the family that owns the winery, and the Managing Director, was at the event. I met Valentina a few years ago when I visited the winery.

T Friulano 2023 Eugenio Collavini made from 100% Collio Friulano The training system is Guyot and Cappuccino and there are 4,200 to 4,800 plants per hectare. Harvest takes place in September. Traditional white wine vinification with gentle crushing of the berries in pneumatic presses of modern design. Fermentation and aging in stainless steel. The wine has hints of pears, white flowers, fresh herbs and a distinctive almond finish. The T is for Tocai, the “old” name for the grape and wine.

Ribolla Gialla Riserva  DOC Collio Primosic made from 100% Collio Ribolla Gialla. The soil is Ponca–marl sandstone. Training system is double arch cane system.  The overripe grapes, hand picked in crates, are destemmed and placed in open vats, where fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts, without sulfates, and with frequent punching down. The must remains in contact with the skins for about 4 weeks without temperature control. The must is then separated from the skins and placed in 600 L barrels where it completes the malolactic fermentation. When the rest on the fine lees is ended, the wine will be transferred to large barrels for more than 1 year, depending on the vintage. After the bottling, which takes place without sterile filtration, the wine is aged in bottle until the right balance of skin to wine is reached. The wine has as intense amber color with hints of apricot, green tea, orange rind, candied tangerine and dried fruit. It was a very interesting wine.

Collio Pinot Grigio Ramato “ Clas’ Livon made from 100% Pinot Grigio. This distinctive copper hued (ramato) white wine is produced in the Collio region of Friuli-Venezia- Giulia. It is a premium selection from the winery. The wine is produced by letting the grayish pinkish skins of the Pinot Grigio grapes macerate with their juice for a short period of time which is about 8 hours. Fermentation is in a combination of stainless steel and Allier barriques. Aging is in stainless steel for about 8 months and then 6 months of bottle aging before release. This is a full bodied wine with hints of ripe pears, apricots, strawberries, a touch of spice and a note of beeswax. Organic farming. I visited the estate a few times over the years. The last  time was 3 years ago with Federica Schir, Head of the Collio Consortium’s Press Office.

Fontefico 2024 Pecorino Superiore Abruzzo DOC “la Canaglia” (Nic Tartaglia is the owner) Azienda Agricola Fontefico.  Made from 100% Pecorino from a vineyard at 120 meters. The training system is guyot and there are 4,000 plants per hectare with an eastern exposure. The soil is iron, sand and clay. It is a single vineyard wine and is estate bottled and the farm is organic. This is a full bodied, crisp white wine with high minerality and hints of grapefruit, sage, and white flowers with a touch of almonds. It is called La Canaglia, the rascal, of Fontefico because the yields are very low. There is a different label on the bottle very year because every wine has its own personality.

lL Colombia di Santachiara  Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2023 “Campo della Pieve”made from 100% Vernaccia. The 1.5 hectare vineyard is at 360 to 400 meters and there are 5,500 vines per hectare. The soil is old Pilocene, which is sand and clay, and the training system is spurred cordon. Harvest by hand is the end of September and beginning of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts at a controlled temperature. Maturation is on the lees in cement vats with periodic batonnage for 18/20 months. This is a complex and aromatic wine with hints of ripe yellow stone fruit, citrus, white flowers and toasted almonds and a very nice finish. $21

Etna Rosso DOC 21 Palmento Costanzo made from 80% Nerello Mascalese, 20% Nerello Cappuccio from Contrada Santo Spirito, Passopisciaro.  Mineral rich volcanic soil. The grapes are hand-harvest in second half of October. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is completely carried out. 50% of the wine is aged for 12 months in stainless steel tanks, 50% ages for 12 months in 50 HL oak barrels, then for  12 months in the bottle before release.The wine has hints of blackberries, blueberries, cherries and a note of dried flowers.


Etna Rosso DOC “Alta Mora: 2022 Cusumano made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from Castiglione di Sicily, in the contradas of Verzella, Pietramarina, Feudo di Mezzo and Solicchiata. The vineyard is 12 hectares at 600/800 meters, the training system is free standing espalier and the average age of the vines is 20 years. Manual harvest. There is a light pressing and destemming, maceration at 28 degrees C for 12 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and successive fining in 25 hl barrels. This is a fruity aromatic red wine with hints of red fruit, currants and raspberries. It is an easy drinking wine.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2022 DOCG Boscarelli.  Usually 86% Prugnolo Gentile, 10% Merlot and 4% Colorino. Rolling hills at 300 meters going down to the River Chiana. Soil is silt and clay. The vines are 6 to 35 years old and are selected from clones from their own vineyards. There are 6,000 plants per hectare, selection at harvest by hand into small crates 2/3 of capacity and another selection in the cellar. Fermentation is with the stalks and after a soft pressing the grapes ferment in little vats of steel and oak filled only to 3/4 of capacity. Fermentation lasts for one week at 28/30º C. Maceration for 5 to 8 days. Only natural yeasts are used. Aging is in 350/2,000 liter barrels of Slovenian oak or French Allier. A little filtration is carried out before bottling if necessary. The wine has hints of violets, blackberries and blueberries, with a note of tobacco.

Chianti Classico Riserva Vigneti La Selvanella made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso. The training system is guyot and cordone speronato and the vineyard is at 1,300 ft with a southwestern exposure. The terroir is a mixture of soils dominated by alberese and weathered sandstone. Harvest is in early to mid-October and only the healthiest bunches are picked. Traditional vinification with a long cool maceration over a period of 20 days with frequent pumping over. Fermentation tales place at no more than 81 F and is followed by malolactic fermentation. Aging is in French oak casks for 30 months and in bottle for 12 months before release. The wine has hints of raspberries, strawberries, irises, toasted almonds and a touch of vanilla.

Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore Caparra & Siciliana made from 100% Gaglioppo from vineyards around Cirò Marona in Calabria.  They combine the use of temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, cement vats and large botti (oak) in their winemaking process. This is a complex and in some ways rustic wine with hints of cherry, licorice, plum and a touch of dry earth.

It was an excellent event and I enjoyed tasting the wines and seeing the participants.

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March 19, 2026 · 2:07 am

PR Communications il Vino — Celebrating 20 Years

Riccardo Gabriele is the founder of PR Communications Il Vino, an Italian public relations agency supporting Italian wineries with an international focus. We first met a number of years ago when he contacted me and asked if I would meet him at the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri tasting in NYC. We have worked together and have been friends since then.

PR Comunications il Vino is a specialized public relations firm representing premium, family-oriented, and often multi-generational Italian wineries ranging from Sicily to Trentino-Alto Adige. They focus on promoting artisan producers with compelling stories rather than just large-scale commercial brands. They represent 32 wineries and two consortiums.

Riccardo started the company, which is based in Livorno, twenty years ago. The first Italian woman Master of Wine Cristina Mercuri is a consultant, as is Derenancourt Vignerons and Nicola Biasi.

Recently I attended a tasting of the wines of PR Communications il Vino with Riccardo Gabriele at restaurant Felice 83 in New York. The tasting was a celebration of the company’s 20th anniversary. The invitation came  from Virginia Cademartori, head of PR and Communications for Platinum Media which is based in NYC and now works with Riccardo.

Listed below are just 10 of over 30 wines that were at the tasting.

Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara  Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2023 L’Albereta Riserva made from 100% Vernaccia certified organic. The vineyards are at 400 meters and the soil is rich in sand and organic material with medium  calcareous content. The training system is spurred cordon. Manual harvest began the last week in September. The best bunches were carefully selected in the vineyard and immediately delivered to the winery. Full strand skin maceration. Soft pressing of the grapes. Spontaneous fermentation at controlled temperature in large barrels. Aging on noble lees, one-year in wood, 6-months in cement. One more year in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of lemons, dried herbs, green apple and a touch of vanilla.

Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Pitraia  DOCG made from 100% Vermentino di Gallura  by Tenuta Gregu in Sardinia. The vineyard covers about 30 hectares divided into two large plots. Vermentino is the main grape variety and occupies about 85% of the vineyard.  Vineyard is at 500 meters with clay based soil. The grapes are affected by noble rot resulting in a big, full bodied bright golden white wine. Carefully harvested in the late phase, the botrytized grapes come from a special parcel of the vineyard, embraced by a vein of pink granite that infuses the wine with incomparable characteristics. Aged for 18 months in contact with the yeasts, through the technique of weekly battonage.

This is the first time I tasted this wine and it is difficult to describe. Here is the producer’s description: “Pitraia stands out for its extraordinary freshness and the harmony of flavors. On the palate, it opens with vibrant notes of cedar, enriched by an intoxicating sensation of wild lavender, which transports directly to the Sardinian cliffs, where the scent of the sea blends with that of the aromatic herbs surrounding our vineyards, caressed by the wind. Pitraia is a tribute to the brininess breathed happily on the coasts of Sardinia, a Vermentino that leaves the aromas and flavors of the sea on the palate, inviting sip after sip. Perfect for special occasions, it pairs magnificently with refined fish dishes, offering a tasting experience that is a true sensory journey into the heart of the Mediterranean.

Tintilia Del Molise Rosso DOP Cantine Catabbo made from 100% Tintilia from San Martino in Pensilis. The vineyard is at 300 meters and the soil is medium clay. The vineyard was planted in 1998. The cultivation is low cordon outcrop and there are 4,400 vines per hectare. Harvest is by hand the first week of October. Fermentation lasts for 15 to 20 days. The wine remains in steel for 12 months and then in bottle until release. The wine has hints of red fruit and cherry, with a note of dried flowers and a touch of licorice and spice.

Azienda Agraria San Gregorio Chanti Colli Senese made from 100% Sangiovese. Harvest takes place at the end of September and the beginning of October by hand. Fermentation is in cement tanks for 8 to 10 days at 26-28C. Maturation takes place in stainless steel. The wine remains in the bottle for 8 months before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, cherry, plum, strawberry and a note of dried herbs.

Etna Rosa DOC Tenuta Etna Nord made from 100% Nerello Mascalese on estate vineyards at 600 to 650 meters at Castiglione, Sicily. The training system is traditional sapling and spurred cordon counter-espalier. Volcanic soil. Harvest is the second 10 days of October. Vinification is with indigenous yeast. Aging is in stainless steel and large wooden barrels. The wine has hints of plum, cherry, strawberry, black pepper and a hint of pine nuts.

Carmignano 2017 Capezzana by Conte Contini Bonaccossi Villa di Capezzana. Made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The elevation is 180/220 meters and the soil is clay, limestone, schist and marl. The age of the vines is 20/40 years and the training system is guyot cordon spur. There are 4,500 vines per hectare and they use organic farming practices. Fermentation is with native indigenous yeast. There is a 13 day extended maceration period. Malolactic fermentation takes place in French tonneaux. Aging: 60% in 2nd and 3rd or 4th passage French oak tonneaux, 10% in new French oak tonneaux and 30% in 5/30 year old untoasted Allier or Slavonian 24 HL barrels for 12 months. The wine is aged for another 12 months in bottle before release.

This is an elegant wine with hints of red berries, a note of blueberries and a touch of violets. I have a long history with this estate going back 40 years. This is a wine that can age. In 1985 I had the 1925 which at the time was labeled Chianti Montalbano. This is my favorite producer of Carmignano.

Vino Nobile di Montalciano DOC “ l Nocil” Boscarelli.  made from 100%  Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese ). Rolling hills at 300 meters going down to the River Chiana. Soil is silt and clay. The vines are 6 to 35 years old and are selected from clones from their own vineyards. There are 6,000 plants per hectare, selection at harvest by hand into small crates 2/3 of capacity and another selection in the cellar. Fermentation is with the stalks and after a soft pressing the grapes ferment in little vats of steel and oak–only to 3/4 of capacity. Fermentation lasts for one week at 28/30º C. Maceration for 5 to 8 days. Only natural yeasts are used. Aging is in 350/2,000 liter barrels of Slovenian oak or French Allier. A little filtration is carried out before bottling if necessary.  This is a full  bodied wine  with hints of black cherry, cranberries violets, orange peel, a hint of spice and a touch of white chocolate

Sagrantino di Montefalco 2004 DOCG “Chiusa di Pannone” Antonelli San Marco   Made from 100% Sagrantino from the best  massale selection. The first vintage was in 2003. Chiusa di Pannone is a 2.70-hectare vineyard planted in 1995. It is at 400 meters, with a southern exposure with rows following the slope. The harvest generally takes place at the end of October. There are gravity feed tanks on the two levels of the cellar. Fermentation with skin contact takes place for 3 to 4 weeks. Malolactic fermentation is in wood. The wine is aged in 500 liter barrels for six months and 25 hl barrels for 12 months.The wine is not filtered. It is released five years after the harvest.  It has hints of blackberry, cherry, and strawberry. This is my favorite producer of Sagrantino.

Barolo 2019 DOCG Cannubi Giacomo Fenocchio made from 100% Nebbiolo, variety Michet from 0.5 hectare at about 280 meters. The soil is Tortonian soil of marl tuff and a prominent presence of sand. The age of the vineyards is 30 years. Harvest takes place in October. There is a 40 day indigenous yeast fermentation and maceration. Aging takes place in large Slavonian casks of 20-25 HL. This is a traditional Barolo with hints of blueberry, violet, cherry and leather, a hint of spice and a touch of licorice. This is one of my favorite producers of Barolo and I visited there a few years ago.

info@pr-vino.it

Via San Marco 17, Livorno, 57126, Italy

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March 9, 2026 · 1:35 am

Tasting Collio Pinot Grigio

On our recent visit to Rome I was contacted by Federica Schir, Head of the Collio Consortium’s Press Office who invited Michele and I to a tasting of Pinot Grigio from Collio. I have enjoyed tasting many fine wines with Federica and it’s always a pleasure to see her again.  Federica said that Lavinia Zamaro, Director of the Collio Consorzio, who I had met on a previous trip to the region would also join us.

Lavinia Zamaro and Federica Schir

The tasting was held at my favorite wine bar in Rome, L’Angolo DiVino.

We tasted 6 Pinot Grigios from the 2024 vintage in the Collio region and discussed them.

Collio is a crescent-shaped sub region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the province of Gorizia enclosed between the Judrio and Isonzo Rivers. It is right up against the Slovenian border. The area consists of a total of 7,000 hectares with a strong biodiversity, of which 1,300 hectares are vineyards. The vines are located in the municipalities of Gorizia, Capriva, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra d’Isonzo,  Mossa, San Floriano del Collio and Isonzo San Lorenzo.

The soil, known as Ponca, is made of stratified marl and sandstone of Eocene origin.  It crumbles in the hand revealing tiny fossils. The hills of Collio originate from the rising of the sea bottom. The soil makes wines with characteristic minerality and salinity. These are unique wines from a unique soil which are unmistakable for their taste and aroma. Collio is known for its complex and structured white wines.

Pinot Grigio is derived from the bud mutation of Pinot Noir.  It  takes its name from the gray-pink color of the grape skin. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Pinot Grigio is an international variety and the most planted white grape in Collio, but has been losing acreage as it has been replaced slowly by Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla.

The 2024 vintage for Collio Pinot Grigio is of high-quality, resulting  in concentrated, aromatic, and structured wines with higher alcohol levels with notes of ripe pear, melon, and citrus with a distinct mineral, salty, finish.

Collio Pinot Grigio MAGNAS Made from 100% Pinot Grigio planted in 1990 in Cormòns and Murzù area. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,500 vines per hectare. There is manual harvesting during the first 10 days of September. A gentle pressing of the grapes is followed by alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature. Aging is on the lees for about six months in stainless steel tanks. The wine was bottled in April. It has a straw-yellow color with fleeting grayish reflections and an intense, distinctive bouquet. Dry on the palate, aromatic, smooth and pleasant, with notes of honey and peach. Soft and long on the finish, with a full character.

Pinot Grigio DOC Collio “Villa Canlungo”  Collavini made from 100% Pinot Grigio from San Floriano del Collio, Gorizia, Cormòns and Mossa. The training system is cordon spur and Guyot and there are 4,500 to 5,000 vines per hectare. Terraced vineyards with southern exposure and “ponca” soils—friable marlstone that retains moisture.  Grapes are hand harvested  in September. There is a short maceration on the skins at a low temperature. Alcoholic fermentation is in temperature controlled  stainless steel vats with natural yeast for about two weeks at a temperature of 14C to 16C. This is an elegant and well balanced wine has hints of citrus fruit, lemon, tangerine, a hint of pear and a touch of apple. Collavini was founded in 1896 and is still family run.

Collio DOC Pinot Grigio Ronco Blanchis made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards in Ronco Blanchis, Mossa and Gorizia. The training system is Guyot and there are 4,830 vines per hectare and the average age of the vines is 15 years. The soil is composed of grey and yellowish eocene marl with a meager  amount of sandstone. Harvest is in the middle of September.  There is white wine vinification with a gentle pressing of the whole bunch. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks. This is an elegant, well-structured wine with hints of citrus fruit, Meyer lemon, peach, a touch of pear and a note of flint.

Collio Pinot Grigio Battistutta made from 100% Pinot Grigio from estate vineyards. The grapes are hand harvested the first week of September. The grapes are destemmed and after a light maceration the grapes are gently pressed. The must obtained is clarified by natural settling.  Alcoholic fermentation is started with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature.  This is a smooth, elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, pear, apple and floral notes.

Pinot Grigio Ronco Scagnet made from 100% Pinot Grigio from the DOC Collio area. Crushing and destemming of the grapes is followed by a soft pressing.  After  24 hours, the coarser lees  are separated out and then fermentation at a controlled temperature of 18C. Aging is for about 6 months on the fermented lees without racking. The wine has hints of golden delicious apple, melon, citrus fruit and pear.

Coldigrotta Pinot Grigio Ramato (coppery) made from 100% Pinot Grigio located in Farra d’Isonzo (Gorizia). The soil is sandstone of oceanic origin and the training system is espalier guyot. The average age of the vines is 30  years. Manual harvest takes place the first and third week of September. Fermentation with selected yeasts takes place at 18-20C and lasts for 12 days. The wine is certified organic. This  is a copper-hued “orange” wine, dry, complex and well- structured  with hints of cantaloupe melon, quince and cherry wood.

After we tasted the wines, Lavinia told us about an upcoming event called “Collio Evolution 2026: Beyond the Variety—From Soil to Glass: The Identity-driven Essence of Pinot Grigio.” This is the second edition of the Collio Evolution and it returns to Cormons on October 25th to 26. The event will include a technical tasting and walk-around tasting for the press, trade professionals, and opinion leaders.

For more information contact: Presso Office of Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio. Federica Schir PR + 39 389 9425510

info@federicaschir-pr.com-federica@federicaschir-pr.com

 

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February 26, 2026 · 1:26 am

L’Angolo DiVino my Favorite Wine Bar in Rome

L’Angolo Divino  is a wine bar just off the Campo dei Fiori in Rome. Michele and I discovered it over 20 years when she was researching an article she was writing for the Wine Spectator magazine. It became one of our favorites because it is one of the few places in Rome where you can both drink and eat very well. For many years, I would choose the wine but now I like to let the owner, Massimo Crippa, choose for me. He knows the style of wine I like and will bring out 3 or 4 different wines for me to consider.  I know I can count on him to recommend something interesting to try.

Cheese plate — Massimo always has an interesting assortment of cheeses available.

Salumi — We always order the salumi assortment.  This one included prosciutto, smoked culatello, mortadella and bresaola.

Soup — Our friend ordered the chick pea soup which was very good.

Vallee d’Aosta Donnas DOC 2020 Caves de Donnas 2020 made from 90% Nebbiolo Pictendo grapes (which are small and tender) 5% Freisa and 5% Neyret from the municipalities of Donnas, Pont-Saint Martin, Perloz and Brad. The wine is aged for at least 12 months in large 25hl barrels. This is a wine with hints of cherry and raspberry, spice, and a touch of leather.  Very easy and approachable wine but it can age.  It went very well with the food and we all enjoyed it.  The wine is made by a cooperative.

Ravioli Stuffed with Sheep’s Ricotta and Spinach in Sage Butter

Aglianico del Vulture “le drude” DOCG Superiore 2014 Azienda Agricola Alluce.  Le Drude was the name given by Piedmontese soldiers to the bandits’ wives in Basilicata after unification.  This wine was created in honor of their courage. Made from 100% Aglianico del Vulture grapes. The soil is calcareous, clayey. It is magma rich of volcanic origin. Vinification is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. It is the only Aglianico del Vulture DOCG to be aged for two years in large oak barrels. It is then aged in bottle for 12 months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of blueberries, blackberries, and currants. It is a wine that will age.

 

Polpettine — Classic meatballs in Tomato Sauce

Coda alla Vaccinara — A Roman classic, oxtail in a spicy tomato sauce.

Dessert was a Crostata di Visciole, a simple tart filled with sour cherry jam.

L’Angolo DiVino has a large selection of Grappa, dessert wines, and digestivi, after lunch/dinner drinks.

Traditional Grappa

Marsala

Marsala

Cerasa, a locally made red wine flavored with cherries.

As always, I enjoyed my visit to L’Angolo Di Vino and look forward to returning again soon.

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February 16, 2026 · 4:37 am

Da Attilio — Naples Pizza At Its Best

Napoli, they say, is the birthplace of pizza. Though the ingredients and styles have changed over the centuries, Napoli is still the best place to get great pizza.

Michele and I have been visiting the city since 1970 and we have tried all kinds of pizza.  Our favorites change from time to time and while we enjoy going back to old favorites, we also like to try new-to-us pizzerias recommended by friends.  One pizzeria we currently enjoy is Da Attilio, located in the Pignasecca neighborhood.

We try to go early because there is always a line outside.

The pizzaiolo is Attilio Bachetti and on a recent night he was making the pizza, as he often does.

The dough is simple and straightforward, using the classic Mulino Caputo blue flour.  Only the best and freshest toppings are used.

We started with crocche, potato croquettes.

The croquettes consisted of mashed potatoes flavored with provola cheese and fried in a coating of crunchy breadcrumbs.

Michele had the Pizza Marinara, topped with a simple tomato sauce, sliced garlic, fresh basil and dried oregano.

Our friend, Stefano, had the Pizza Carrettiera topped with provola, Benevento sausage and broccoli rabe.

I usually have the Margarita but decided this time to have something different.

Pizza Carnevale is Attilio’s specialty.  The eight points of the crust are stuffed with fresh, velvety ricotta cheese. The central toppings are inspired by the traditional Neapolitan carnival lasagna — tomato sauce, fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella), pork sausage, and pecorino cheese.

The recipe for Pizza Carnevale dates back to at least 1944.  Attilio Bachetti reintroduced it after finding the recipe on a menu from his grandfather’s era.  Da Attilio has been a family owned restaurant since 1938.

If you are planning a visit to Napoli, be sure to give Da Attilio a try.

Via Pignasecca, 17, Napoli, in the historic Pignasecca area near via Toledo.

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January 26, 2026 · 3:12 am

Pecorino Romano–A Versatile Cheese

Pecorino Romano DOP is a cheese made from sheep’s milk.  This cheese can only be made on the Island of Sardinia which produces 95% of the production, the region of Lazio on the Italian mainland, and the province of Grosseto in Tuscany which accounts for 5% of the production.

Last week, a press conference was held at restaurant Bucatini in NYC sponsored by the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Pecorino Romano.

The authenticity of Pecorino-Romano cheese is indicated by the Protected Denomination of Origin mark.

Robert Campana, founder of Stop Italian Sounding, an organization dedicated to helping to create the brand identity of Italian food and beverage companies, introduced the event.

Gianni Maoddi, President of the  Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Pecorino Romano, spoke about the history of the cheese, its production and world wide distribution. The US is the biggest market for the cheese and 60% of the production is sold here.  For more information about Pecorino Romano, see https://charlesscicolone.life/category/peccorino-romano/

After Mr. Maoddi’s presentation, Emilia D’Albero, the first American to win the prestigious title of “World’s Best Cheesemonger” at the Mondial du Fromage (2025) in France, spoke. She told us about her training to become a cheesemonger and the challenges she faced in France order to win the title.  Over the course of 2 days, Emilia competed against 18 other challengers representing 14 countries around the world.  The competition included a blind tasting and identification of various cheeses, creating recipes and cheese displays.

She then led us in a tasting of Pecorino Romano speaking about the color, bouquet and taste of the cheese.

Though Pecorino Romano often is sold grated, it is always best to purchase a wedge and grate it yourself because it is fresher and more flavorful.

Next we tried a creative appetizer of dried apricots stuffed with Pecorino Romano and drizzled with honey.

Pecorino Romano has always been tariff-free here in the US because there is no large scale sheep cheese production in this country.  Recently, however, the current administration levied a 15% tariff on it. This would add 25,000,000 Euros to the cost of bringing the cheese into the US and the Pecorino Romano Consorzio is working to get this tariff reversed.

A buffet dinner featuring a range of dishes with Pecorino Romano followed the presentation.

Arancini  — Cheesey  rice  balls.

Penne Pasta  with  Pecorino  Romano  and  Tomato  Sauce

Chicken Stuffed with Pecorino Romano

With the food we drank a Brunello di Montalcino

Pecorino Romano is often used as a topping for pasta, but this tasting showed that there are a multitude of other ways to enjoy it.

 

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January 15, 2026 · 3:11 am

OLD WINES WELCOME THE NEW YEAR

Thanks to the kindness of friends, since the beginning of the New Year I have been able to drink a number of older Italian wines and one French wine paired with excellent food.

Barolo 1979 Marcarini made from 100% Nebbiolo. This wine was made when legendary Elvio Cogno was the winemaker.  Some of the best classic traditional wines that it has been my pleasure to drink were produced by Cogno. When I visited the Marcarini winery in 1985, I spoke with him and he said he made a better Barolo in 1979 than in 1978!  This is a classic Barolo with flavors and aromas of faded roses, licorice, tar, tobacco, a hint of cherry and a slight touch of white truffles.

We had it with Braised Black Lentils with Cotechino.  This is a classic dish to celebrate the New Year in Italy.  Cotechino is a delicately spiced pork sausage encased in pork skin which gives it a rich flavor and creamy texture unlike other sausages.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 1985 Emidio Pepe 100% Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. The winery is organic and Bio-Dynamic. They belong to the Triple “A” Agriculture Artisans Artists. Both the tendone method and the cordon spur method are used for training the vines. In vintages when the weather is very hot the tendone method is better because the leaves form a canopy to protect the grapes from the sun.  When the weather is not too hot, the cordon spur is better because it allows more sun and air to reach the grapes. One hectare of tendone has 900 vines and produces 90 quintals of grapes.  That means that each vine produces from 6 to 9 kilos of grapes. In one hectare of cordon spur trained grapes there are 3,300 vines and each vine produces 5 to 6 kilos of grapes. The grapes are crushed by hand and the juice placed in glass-lined cement tanks of 20/25 liters. Only natural yeasts are used, there is no filtration or fining. The wine is transferred to the bottle by hand and the corks are placed in the bottles by hand. This is a a great wine with deep red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of cherry, spice, leather a touch of tobacco and  a trace of smoke. We drank it with Bucatini all’ Amatriciana.  A classic from Rome and Abruzzo, thick strands of bucatini pasta are sauced with rich tomato sauce made with guanciale, sharp pecorino cheese and a hint of chile.

Burgundy 2002 Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru (On the Cote de Beaune) Robert Ampeau & Fils made from 100% Chardonnay. 2002 was a great vintage in Burgundy. This is old style Burgundy. The wine are aged for years in the cellars before release. This not only gives them incredible complexity but makes them ready to drink on release. There is natural ground cover in the vineyard. In the winery there is a minimal use of new oak.  The fermenters are concrete which gives the wine a certain depth and purity. This is a complex rich wine with hints of white peach, pineapple, baked apple, creme brûlée, honey. citrus and a touch of almonds. A very impressive white wine.

I had it with grilled jumbo shrimp served on a bed of spinach and white beans flavored with garlic.  Simple and delicious.

Barolo Antico  1996 Giacomo Borgogno  This Barolo in made with Nebbiolo grapes from the vineyard identified in the local land registry as parcel number 81 of the ninth sheet of the Commune of Barolo. This vineyard, part of the Liste area, was the first one acquired by the house of Borgogno whose origin dates back to 1761. It is a particular sunny site and thanks to its own special microclimate the fruit is the last to be picked every year. This selection is made only in truly great vintages is produced in strictly limited quantities (around 4,00 bottles).  For this presentation the winery went back to the historic label which was in used during the second half of the 17th century. This bottle is #3,320. Classic Barolo with hints of of dark fruit, cherry, licorice and touch a spice and a note of roses.

We had it with roasted pork loin, green beans, red cabbage and roast potatoes.

Barbaresco “Ovello” 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco made from 100% Nebbiolo.  The Ovello vineyard covers an area of 16.25 acres at 290 meters with a south/southeastern exposure.  The 1996 Ovello Riserva, has on the label the name of the single vineyard, the number of bottles produced (18,145) and the names of the vineyard owners: Cravanzola, Gonella, Maffei, Vacca, Varaldo. The wine was aged in large barrels of Slavonic oak for four years.  It has hints of black raspberries, cherries, leather, tea and a touch of spice. It was showing very well and will age for a number of years. .Produttori del Barbaresco is a wine cooperative, arguably the best in Italy. This is traditional classic Barbaresco at its best.

We had it with sweet and hot Italian sausages roasted with peppers, potatoes and onions,

Barolo 1967  Oddero made from 100% Nebbiolo. This wine was drinking very well and despite its age, it seemed like a much younger wine.  It had hints of red fruit, cherry, a note of spice and a touch or tobacco.

We had this with Chinese food including Stir fried chicken with cashew nuts and green peppers

Two days later we opened another bottle of the 1967 and it was not drinkable.

Barolo “ Marcenasco” 1970 Ratti. Antica Cantina Della Abbazia dell’ Annunziata. Marcenasco is a historic sub-zone in La Morra. The wine was aged in large oak casks of 2,500 liters to 5,000 liters, It has hints of spice, licorice, tobacco and dried herbs. It was drinkable but really showing its age.

We had it with cheese.  On the left is a wedge of 4 year old Red Cow  Parmigiano-Reggiano, the center piece is a 2-year old Brown Cow Parmigiano-Reggiano and the wedge on the right is a young pecorino Toscano.

Barolo 1964 Calissano Riserva Speciale the wine had hints of mushrooms, tea, sage, and herbs.  Unfortunately the winery no longer exists.

We had it with our starter of fried pork dumplings at a Chinese restaurant and it went very well.

Chinese fried pork dumplings

 

Marsala  Vergine Secco Riserva “Terre Arse” 1998 Florio made from 100% Grillo.  The soil is arid, scarcely fertile of siliceous-calcareous origin.  Vineyards facing the sea near the beach with typical Marsala bush-trained vines with density of at least 5,000 plants per hectare.  Harvest is by hand, advanced ripening, during the last week of September. Pressing of the grapes with a high sugar content to pass the precious substances found in the skins to the must. Fermentation at controlled temperature and blend of the resulting wine with wine distillate according to the Marsala Vergine tradition (Fortified Wine). The wine is aged for at least 10 years in ancient oak barrels and at least two years in bottle before release. This is a dry balanced wine with hints of bitter almonds, burnt honey, a touch of caramel and a hint of licorice. This is a very impressive wine with a finish that goes on and on.

We had it with panettone and it was the perfect combination.

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December 29, 2025 · 3:51 am

The Perfect Christmas Dinner

Michele and I always look forward to Christmas dinner with Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow. For a number of years it has been our tradition to invite Tom and Diane to our house for Thanksgiving dinner, and they have us to their home for Christmas. They are excellent and adventurous cooks.  Tom has a great wine collection and will try to find the perfect wine match each course.  Though all of our previous holiday celebrations have been wonderful, it seemed to be extra-special this year.

Champagne John Charles Ricciuti Premier Cru Réserve  NV made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and aging is in steel tanks. Residual sugar is7g/l and the alcohol is 12 %. The wine has hints of apple,  ginger with a hint of pear and a touch of lemon.


A plate of freshly baked gougeres accompanied the Champagne along with slices of felino salami, nuts and olives.

At the table, we enjoyed a first course of individual leek and mascarpone tartlets, but I forgot to take a picture!

Beaune Boucherottes Premier Cru 2012 made from 100% Pinot Noir. ”Les Boucherottes” is a premier cru vineyard at the southern edge of Beaune, bordering Pommard, with deep clay soils adding lushness and power.  2012 was a high-quality, small-yield vintage in Burgundy, known for concentrated wines. This is a serious wine with hints of dark cherry, raspberries , strawberry, and a touch of leather. This wine will last for a number of years.

Perfectly cooked prime rib of beef was the star of the evening, accompanied by sauteed mushrooms, green beans, and potato gratin.

Roast ready to serve.  Tom carved it to order.

On the plate

Grignolino delle Langhe 1979 Cavallotto Made from 100% Grignolino.

In 2017 I tasted Grignolino of the Monferrato Casalese “Bricco del Bosco Vigne Vecchie “ 2011 Giulio Accornero & Figli made from 100% Grignolino  at the home of wine writer Daniele Cernilli, aka Doctor Wine. Most Grignolino is meant to be drunk young, within one or two years of production, so I was surprised at how well this wine had held up and I really enjoyed it.

The 1979 vintage Grignolino that Tom served was further proof that Grignolino can age.  With its spicy notes, and flavor of raspberries, pomegranate, rhubarb and a touch of smoke it was a revelation. An amazing wine!!

 

A selection of cheeses to savor with the Barolo

Barolo 2004 Marchese di Barolo  Nebbiolo grapes coming from the best crus of the municipality of Barolo. Grapes harvested in Cannubi, Sarmassa, Coste di Rose, Vignane, Preda, Boschetti and Ravera contribute to the production of the wine. The soil is rich in clay with some silt, sand and limestone. Harvested by hand, a selection of the best bunches is made in the vineyard. Each cru is vinified separately: the destemmed and pressed grapes ferment at a controlled temperature in stainless steel fermenters. The maceration on the skins lasts approximately 15 days during which pumping the must over the pomace cap favors maximum extraction of the polyphenolic substances contained within the skin.  After malolactic fermentation, the individual wines obtained from the different crus are blended. The refinement of Barolo from the municipality of Barolo lasts approximately 2 years, of which the first year half of the volume is stored in small French oak barrels and the remaining half in 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels; while the second year the entire volume is brought together and the maturation ends in large traditional Slavonian oak barrels.  The wine has hints of red berries, cherry, raspberry, roses, violets, licorice and a touch of leather

Michele provided one of the desserts, a pear and almond tart.

Diane’s Christmas Cookie selection included Toll House, Peanut Butter, Granadinas and Ciambellini al Vino.

Thanks to Tom and Diane for another wonderful Christmas dinner.

Happy New Year!

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December 23, 2025 · 2:47 am

All that Sparkles for the New Year

 

 

Whether you choose White, Rosè, or Red, Dry or Sweet, Spumante or  Champagne, sparkling wine adds a festive note to every holiday get together. Here are some that you might enjoy.

Conegliano Prosecco Superiore DOCG Rive di Ogliano Brut Natural 2022 BiancaVigna made from 100% Glera from vineyards at 150 to 180 meters. The soil is clayey, limestone and rocky clay. Estate-owned vineyards are located in Ogliano. Named after the “Riva di Ogliano,” the steep hill where the grapes used to make this wine grow. Harvest is in the middle of September. Prise de mousse (sparkling process): the second fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks (cuvée close) at controlled temperatures with indigenous selected yeasts and lasts 150 days. Tartaric stabilization at low temperature. Bottle refinement for three months before release. This is a complex wine with hints of green apple, pear, peach, stone fruits and floral notes.  Alcohol: 11.5. Residual Sugar 1.5 g/l. $23

Caprettone Spumante Method Classico 100% Caprettone CasaSetaro Production zone Alto Tirone, Vesuvius National Park in the region of Campania. The age of the vineyards is 18 to 25 years. They are at 350 meters and the training system is espalier, guyot trained with a few buds per plant. Vinification: maceration at 4C in steel tanks, fermentation for 18 to 24 days, the second fermentation takes place after about six months. The wine remains on the lees for 30 months and remains in bottle for about 12 months before release.  The Caprettone grape is excellent for making Spumante method classico because it has very good body and produces a round and elegant wine.$25

Ferrari Brut NV Methodo Classico 100% Chardonnay. Trento DOC.  The grapes are picked by hand at the end of August and beginning of September. They come from various communes in the Val d’Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi. The vineyards are between 300 and 600 meters above sea level, with southeast or southwest exposure. The wine is aged for at least 24 months on the lees. Selected yeast from Ferrari’s own cultures are used. The wine has hints of apples, wildflowers and a delicate touch of brioche and undertones of ripe citrus fruit. $30

 

Durello 36 Riserva Extra Brut Metodo Classico DOC made from 85% Lessini Durello and 15% Pinot Noir Sandro Bruno. The soil is volcanic with basaltic rocks. The vineyard is 4 hectares with a southern exposure at 500 meters. The vines are 35 years old. The vineyards are cultivated without the use of pesticides. Manual harvest takes place the 3rd week of September. There is a selection of grapes followed by a soft pressing in a nitrogen saturation at a low temperature. Fermentation is in steel tanks for both grapes. After fermentation the lees are preserved by performing weekly batonnage for 8 months. Sugars 1g/l.  The wine remains on its own yeast for 36 months. It ages in bottle for 6 more months before release. This is an intense wine with mineral aromas. The wine has hints of white flowers, pear, almonds and a note of lemon. $28

Franciacorta  DOCG  Extra Brut 2018 Vintage Collection Ca’ del Bosco (Lombardia) made from 65%  Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Bianco and 30% Pinot Nero from 27 certified organic vineyards. Grapes are hand harvested and each individual bunch is washed and dried. Fermentation takes place for 5 months in oak barrels. The wine remains on the yeasts for an average of 48 months. This is an elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, apple and pear lemon and a touch of pineapple. One of my favorites. $66

Champagne Boizel Ultime Zero made from 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Meunier and 30% is reserve wines. Produced only from grapes selected for their high level of maturity.  Dosage Zero  No dosage is used to give the wine greater roundness at the end of the crafting process and all the attention is focused on obtaining a very pure and subtle harmony. The wine is aged on the lees for 5 years. It is a complex Champagne fully developed with hints of peaches, white flowers, gingerbread, lightly toasted almonds and good acidity. $49

Champagne Ruinart Brut Rosé NV made from 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. About 18% of the Pinot Noir added is still wine. It has red fruit aromas and flavors with hints of raspberries and strawberries. $119

Otto Uve, Gragnano della Penisola Sorrentina DOC Made from 60% Piedirosso, Aglianico, and Sciascinoso, and 40% Suppezza, Castagnara, Serbegna, Olivella and Sauca. The eight grape varieties in the blend give this wine its name. It is a tribute to the lesser known grapes of the area. The training system is espalier. The vineyard is at 300 meters.  Harvest began on September 24th and ended on October 8th. The grapes were hand harvested into boxes of 20 kg. After destemming and crushing, maceration with the skins lasted for 5 days, soft pressing of the grapes in a pneumatic press and fermentation in temperature controlled tanks at about 20C. The wine was bottled in the beginning of  December. It should be served chilled and drunk within two years after bottling. It is a slightly frizzante red wine $18

Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce IGP ‘RossoViola’ (ruby red in color) 2020 Luciano Saetti made from 100% Salamino di Santa Croce. The vines are 40 years old and the training system is guyot and spalliera. Soil is deep grey clay, sand and silt. Harvest is manual. Grapes are crushed and the resulting spontaneous fermented must goes into steel tanks at a controlled temperature. The alcoholic fermentation process is concluded without the grapes being pressed. The sediment falls spontaneously to the bottom of the tank, avoiding any micro-filtering. The spring after a second fermentation takes place in the bottle initiated by the addition of grape must at a controlled pressure and temperature. It is fermented to dryness. After refinement that takes at least four months, the bottles are hand riddled and disgorged.  The date of this operation is shown on the back label (complete with day, month and year). The wine has hints of violets and red berries with sweet spice notes and a touch of plums.  Organic certified. No sulfur is added to the wines. $21

Moscato d’ Asti DOCG Tre Secoli made from 100% Moscato. There is a soft pressing of the grapes followed by a fermentation in temperature controlled autoclaves. Sugar level is 120 G/L and the alcohol is 5%. The wine has hints of fresh fruit, white peach, apricot and ginger. $12

Asti DOCG Millesimato Cuvage Dolce 2018 made from 100% Moscato. The vineyards are at 250 to 400 meters. Grapes are harvested the first week of September. After pressing the clusters and cold static decantation, inoculation of the selected yeasts takes place with fermentation up to 5.5 degrees alcohol. Maturation of the Cuvèe is for several months in stainless steel on its own yeasts. Maturation on the lees for a minimum of 18 months and 6 months in the bottle before release. Undosed: 100g/l this sugar is the result of the natural sweetness of the must, nothing has been added. The wine has hints of brioche, freshly baked bread, white flowers, and acacia with a hint of vanilla and a touch of pepper. $19. A few months ago I went to a tasting of Asti Spumante at a Japanese restaurant and it worked with the sushi.

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