Category Archives: Uncategorized

The bad vintages by Daniele Cernilli

by Daniele Cernilli 2 January 2024

Below is an article by Daniele (aka Doctor Wine) in which I am in complete agreement.

“Woe to generalize. The pretense of judging an absolute vintage can lead to considering as bad vintages that in some areas are not bad at all. Because of the shape of Italy, the climate can be very different from one place to another.

IIn as many as 45 years of frequenting the world of wine I’ve seen a lot of it. In particular, I have witnessed peremptory definitions of the value of various vintages, only to be resoundingly disproved over time.

Of course, that 1972, ’84, ’92 of last century, 2002 and 2014 of this one, were not great is very true. But of exceptions there are several, because Italy is long, narrow, the vineyards are mostly in hilly areas, and the climate can be very different between places. A classic example was the 1989, very bad almost everywhere but very good in Piedmont, in the Langa especially. Then, sure, 1985 was a great vintage, and initially ’86 seemed much inferior. If you went to taste the wines of the two vintages in Bordeaux, in Chianti Classico, in Montalcino, you would probably find today the upside-down values. So too between ’95 and ’97, where the first vintage was hastily deemed “minor” and the second “vintage of the century.” Very advanced and “open” ’85 and ’97, very youthful ’86 and ’95, almost everywhere.

More recently, 2002 also yielded formidable and unsuspected wines, especially in the white sector, while 2014 was “branded” as a decidedly poor vintage. However, in Sardinia and Sicily, at the very least, it is exactly the opposite. So let’s go easy on generalizations.

And the last one, 2023? It depends. Everyone knows that there have been attacks of downy mildew even in areas where it was virtually unknown. Then first drought and soon after continuous rains, lots of hail here and there, and a very successful end to the season. Therefore of the Good winemakers made good wines and in some areas the lower production has led to very interesting results. You have to watch, in short, and Judging on a case-by-case basis, without bias. Many people like drastic stances, though. Evidently testing their beliefs is very difficult for them.”

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

A Classic Italian Combination: Asti Spumante and Panettone.

Bread and butter, wine and cheese:  some things are just meant to go together.  Asti Spumante and Panettone belong on that list of perfect combinations.

Asti Spumante DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG come from the Moscato Bianco (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) strain of grapes.  It is one of the oldest known varieties of wine grapes and grows in the Piedmont regions of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato. The zone is located between the Ligurian Coast and the Alps.

Moscato d’Asti is made from the same grape as Asti Spumante and has many of the same flavors and aromas. It is also low in alcohol, around 5% by volume. The difference is that Moscato d’Asti is only slightly sparkling (frizzante) and it is vintage dated, while Asti Spumante is not dated and is considered a Spumante. Moscato d’Asti should be drunk as close to the vintage date as possible. The two wines share the same DOCG.

For Asti Spumante the grapes are refrigerated at zero degrees until they reach a second fermentation, a process that can be accomplished either according to the “Martinotti Method” or  the complex “Classico Method.” Recently, the range of residual sugars has been expanded from traditional sweet to extra dry, from brut to pas dosé. Asti Spumante is known world wide as a sparkling wine to be drunk every time there is a reason to celebrate.

For Moscato d’Asti, there is a gentle pressing of the grape bunches by a pneumatic press. The must is clarified in order to eliminate the solid residue and any other undesired components it may contain. Alcoholic fermentation takes place through the addition of select yeasts at a controlled temperature.  The limpid and cooled must is poured into large tanks and repeatedly filtered to prevent spontaneous fermentation. Moscato d’Asti does not go through a second fermentation in the bottle.  Instead, the second fermentation is performed in a single tank (autoclave) using the Martinotti method, in which bubbles are trapped in the wine via carbonation in the tank. Yeasts are eliminated by filtration or centrifugation. The wine is then kept in cooling tanks at about -3C so that fermentation does not start.  At the time of bottling, the temperature is raised until fermentation begins.  It is stopped at about 5% alcohol. Fermentation can be stopped and then started so that the wine can be bottled several times a year. This aromatic wine should be enjoyed young when it is at its freshest.

Both Moscato d’Asti and Asti Spumante have aromas of apricot, pear, peach, honeysuckle, mandarin orange, jasmine and white flowers.

I was able to taste and enjoy both wines along with traditional Panettone from Brooklyn’s own Settepani Bakery.

Panettone is a sweet Italian traditional Christmas cake. It comes in many different varieties and can contain raisins, nuts, chocolate, candied citrus and other fruits, and more.  Some are iced while others are glazed or topped with sugar crystals,

Chef Bilena Settepani from Settepani supplied the Panettone

We were served slices of three different varieties of panettone and I enjoyed them all.

Here are just a few of the wines I tasted:  

Balbi Soprani Asti Dolce

Caudrina La Salvatica Asti (Label by the late legendary grappa producer Romano Levi)

Ceretto I Vignaioli di San Stefano Moscato d’Asti

Bava Bass Tuba Moscato d’Asti

Braida (Giacomo Bologna) “Vigna Senza Nome” Moscato D’ Asti

Panettone with Asti Spumante or Moscato d’Asti is the perfect way to entertain guests this holiday season.

1 Comment

Filed under Asti, Asti Spumante, Moscato d'Asti, Panattone, Uncategorized

Daniele Cernilli (aka Doctor Wine) on Pasta Amatriciana

Daniele Cernilli wrote this informative article about my favorite pasta Amatriciana. Daniele is my expert on all things Roman.  He is a “Roman of the Romans” as the saying goes.   Michele and I often disagree on the best pasta shape to use for this sauce — bucatini or mezze manica.  I prefer the thick strands of bucatini or perciatelli, while Michele prefers the short tubes of mezze manica.  Here’s what Daniele thinks about this important subject.

The story of the amatriciana

by Daniele Cernilli 10/09/23 | 
amatriciana senza pomodoro

Although considered a typical Roman dish, its origin is in reality from the Abruzzo-Lazio countryside, the town of Amatrice, and it is defined by two fundamental ingredients: guanciale and percorino cheese.

Amatrice is, or perhaps was considering the horrific 2016 earthquake, a medieval town. Up until 1927, when Mussolini decided that Lazio, whose capital is Rome, should be a bigger region, it was part of the Abruzzo region. It is also near the border with the Marche region, which begins just after the towns of Illica and Accumoli, a few kilometers to the east, and not far from what used to be the border separating the provinces of Terni and L’Aquila, in other words the border between the regions of Umbria and Abruzzo.

The area is an authentic Apennine melting pot, one where different traditions intertwine and where Abruzzo and Neapolitan traditions meet, thanks to being where the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies and the Papal States reached. Before then, during the early middle ages, it was ruled by the Church, the ex-Byzantines, the Lombards and the Franks.

The “Matriciani” people are the product of these encounters and some of them emigrated to Rome where they became innkeepers, bringing to the capital their dishes and ingredients, above all guanciale (pork jowl) and percorino (sheep cheese), two gastronomic gems from that area. Then again, pigs and sheep were the two most logical and traditional livestock raised by the people living in the central Italian Apennine Mountains, where there were no plains to raise cattle.

However, their traditions changed in an urban context. Tomatoes were added to their typical pasta sauce, an ingredient that was not common in the mountain area of Amatrice, and bucatini pasta was also adopted, it being of Sicilian origin probably brought to Rome by some “itinerant” cook. In Amatrice, on the other hand, spaghetti was the type of pasta used, never bucatini, and more than likely the sauce would have no tomato in it.

Oddly enough, the gricia pasta dish, which would be an amatriciana without tomatoes, apparently did not originate in Amatrice. This is because the “grici” in Rome were those who sold encased and cured meats, those who more or less in the 17th century arrived from the Canton of Grigioni (Graubünden), in Valtellina, and hence were nicknamed “grici”. This type of dried meat was particularly loved by the Jews who made bresaola using beef, and not pork.

This was the backdrop for what became the “matriciana” (as the Romans call it), which was undoubtedly inspired by what those from Amatrice made but which underwent different modifications and influences. For sure, compared to the “carbonara”, a more recent and stateless dish with no precise tradition, it is on a totally different level. One can argue which is the best type of pasta to use (not bucatini, please), between spaghetti, thicker spaghettoni, rigatoni or mezzi rigatoni, which nicely absorb the sauce. But there can be no substitute for guanciale, which is obligatory, or pecorino cheese from Amatrice, while the jury is still out on the best tomatoes to use. It is a dish that remains rooted in tradition, one that may be open to interpretation but which maintains some precise benchmarks.

My old friend Pietro Micara, who was from Frascati and who passed away some 20 years ago, taught me an important trick. The guanciale must never all be cooked in the tomato sauce “otherwise you’ll boil it”, he said. This means that some of the guanciale should be cooked in a pan apart using only its own fat, some of which needs to be removed to ensure the guanciale becomes crispy. It is then added to the pasta on the plate to give it a crispy edge. Similar advice was given to me years later by Ferran Adrià for a totally different recipe. Consistency, temperature and balance are part of an evolved way of cooking, the chiaroscuro. The “matriciana” made by Pietro Micara was extraordinary, rich and elegant and it’s the way I still try to make it.

Trivia:

Since March 6, 2020, the amatriciana has officially been recognized as a Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (STG) product by the European Union.

In the STG recipe for the amatriciana, the sauce is composed of Amatrice guanciale De.Co. (traditional local product) that is sautéed and doused with dry white wine, San Marzano tomatoes or, as an alternative, quality peeled tomatoes, Amatrice pecorino cheese De.Co. (from the Monti Sibillini or Monti della Laga), extra-virgin olive oil, fresh or dried chili pepper, salt and pepper. The pasta to use with the STG amatriciana sauce is rigorously only spaghetti.


Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Gavi the Great White Wine of Piedmont

Gavi Got a New Groove: “The Queen of Piedmont is Growing for the Better.”   This event sponsored by the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi was held at The Midtown Loft & Terrace in NYC.

Lars Leicht, SOMM Journal VP for Education was the speaker.  As usual, Lars gave a very informative presentation and used slides to clarify points for the audience.  I was invited by Irene Ferri of wellcomonline.com

The Consorzio was founded in 1993 and is commissioned by the Ministry of Agriculture to prompt, enhance, and protect the Gavi DOCG denomination in Italy and around the world. The Consorzio has 190 members.

Gavi is one of Piedmont’s most historical and respected white wine producing zones. The Gavi DOCG denomination is located in  south-east Piedmont, along the border with Liguria in the province of Alexandria. Gavi is the main town of the area.  The white wine Gavi is  also known as Gavi di Gavi and Cortese di Gavi. The only difference is that Gavi Di Gavi (Commune DI Gavi ) is grown around the town of Gavi.

Gavi is made from the Cortese grape and only the Cortese grape.  Cortese for Gavi is grown in 11 communes all in the province of Alessandria.

Gavi is made in different styles: Tranquillo (still) which accounts for 99% of the production. Spumante (sparkling) vinified according to the Method Classico with secondary fermentation on the lees in the bottle. Frizzante (slightly sparkling) this traditional Gavi is only made by a handful of producers. Riserva (aged) is meant for aging and is released to the market after one year of which at least 6 months are spent in the bottle.

Gavi production zone

Lars used slides to better explain the soils in the area.

Northern Belt

The red clay soils are found in the northern part of the denomination which has gentle hills.  The red soils here are rich in iron and originated from alluvial deposits accumulated  by the slow erosion of rivers. This is the warmest zone. Lars said the Gavi here has excellent body and structure.

Central Strip

The white clays are from the line that connects Serravalle, Gavi and San Cristoforo. There are alternating layers of marl and sandstone. A mix of clay, sand and pebbles in fluvial terraces, marine formations and rocks from the oceanic crust. Lars said Gavi here has great balance and structure.

Southern Belt

Here the altitude exceeds 400 meter and can go as high as 1,000 meters. Near the Apennines, soils are mostly of metamorphic origin.  Lars said it is a sparsely planted area because of the altitude and steep slopes. We did not taste any wines from this zone.

After the presentation, there was a sit down tasting of 44 Gavi wines all from the 2022 vintage. The 2022 was a very good vintage in Gavi.

Lars suggested we taste the wines from the white soils first, then those from  mixed soils and finally those from the red soils.

We sat at tables and were given pads that had our table and seat numbers. All the bottles were numbered and we wrote down the numbers of the bottles we wanted.  They were brought 6 bottles at a time by the waiter. All Gavi is DOCG and all the wines were from the 2022 vintage. Below are 9 wines: 3 from white soil, 3 from mixed soil, and 3 from red soil. Lars was correct about the order.

Gavi DOCG Commune DI Gavi “Traci “  Tacchino Romina White Soil (White Marl). The vineyard is at 310/350 meters and the exposure is southeast. Pruning system is guyot and there are 4,500 plants per hectare. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks at 12/14 C. Aging is in stainless steel tanks for at least 3 months and then bottled for the time needed. It has hints of apple, peach, citrus and fresh almonds. $20

Gavi DOCG Del Commune Di Gavi “Vigne Rade” La Toledana White soil (Marn-Calcareus). The vines  are 20 years old and the training system is guyot.  Exposure is southern and the 64 acre vineyard is at 656 ft. Harvest takes place in September. After the harvest, the grapes are destemmed, gently pressed, and the juice is fermented without skins in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. It is then matured in stainless steel tanks and bottled just a few months after the harvest in order to preserve its freshness. The wine has hints of fresh fruit, white flowers, citrus and bitter almonds.$30

Gavi DOCG Del Comune Di Gavi La Rocchin. White Soil. The vineyards are at 210 meters with a southwest exposure and the vines are 20 to 30 years old. Harvest usually takes place at the end of September. Classical white wine vinification with soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation in steel tanks with selected yeasts. The wine ages in stainless steel for 6 months on the lees and is bottled at the end of February. The wine has hints of citrus, orange blossoms and almonds. $15

Gavi DOCG Commune DI Gavi  “Mainin” La Ghibellina. Mixed Soil.  The training system is guyot with high intensity planting and the exposure is south/east, There are 6 ha of vines at 300 meters and the soil is sedimentary. Fermentation takes place in steel vats at a controlled temperature. Aging is for 4 months in stainless steel vats with stirring of the lees. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 months before release. The wine has hints of white flowers, fresh fruit, chamomile, citrus, wet stone and a hint of lemon zest. $21

Gavi DOCG Ottosoldi Mixed Soil (marlstone and limestone). The vineyard is 5.1 hectares at 250 to 300 meters and the exposure is southwest. There are 5,000 vines per hectare  and the vines are 20 years old. The training system is guyot. Manual harvest is in mid- September. Fermentation in stainless steel. Aging mainly in stainless steel and tonneaux barrels. Malolactic fermentation does not take place. Full bodied with ripe citrus fruit, hints of dried lemon, grapefruit, green apple and white blossoms. $19

Gavi DOCG Del Comune Di Gavi La Smilla Mixed Soil (clay and limestone). The age of the vines is 10 to 20 years old and the training system is guyot. Vinification is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in large barrels for 5 to 10 months and then a minimum of 2 months in bottle before release, This is a crisp full bodied wine wine has hints of citrus, honeysuckle and tropical fruit. $18

Gavi DOCG Del Comune Di Gavi Rovereto Michele Chiarlo Red Soil (Dark red clay marl) with the presence of stones. The 5 hectare vineyard is 25 years old and is at 400/500 meters with a southeast exposure. Manual harvest. The wine has hints of white flowers, golden apple, mineral notes and a touch of candied orange skins. $28

Gavi DOCG Comune Del Tassarolo “Terrarossa” La Zerba Red Soil (Clay). The vineyards are at 280-300 meters and the exposure is south, southwest. The training system is guyot and the method of pruning is Simonit & Sirch. Average age of the vines is 30 years. Harvest is in mid-September and it is exclusively by hand. Fermentation is for one week in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Fermentation is with skin maceration. Then matured in steel tanks for about 5 months after racking with repeated bâtonnage of the lees. The wine remains in the bottle for 3 months before release. The wine has hints of citrus, peach, pear and white flowers. $22

Gavi DOCG “IL Forte” Produttori Del Gavi. Red soil (red clay based alluvial).  The vineyards are at 200 to 300 meters and the exposure is southeast. There are 4,500 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. The vines are 30 years old. Harvest tales place in the middle of September. Fermentation is in temperature controlled steel tanks for 20 days. Aging is in temperature controlled steel tanks of ay least 3 months on the lees. The wine remains in bottle for one month before release. The wine has hints of pear, peach apricot and yellow plum with a mild almond finish. $14

                           

3 Comments

Filed under Uncategorized

The Innovative White Wines of DI MEO

June has been a very busy month for Italian wine events in NYC. One of the events I attended was a masterclass entitled “A Journey through Le Tenute del Leone Alato,” a presentation of different wine estates represented by Leone Alata Wine & Spirits.  The class was preceded by a tasting of the wines they import. One of the wineries was Di Meo in Campania which I visited on a press trip to Campania organized by Campania Stories in 2016.  I have always enjoyed the wines.

The Di Meo Winery

In the early 1980’s Erminia, Generoso and Roberto Di Meo acquired this historical estate from their parents Vittorio and Alessandro. The estate is located in the province of Avellino in the area of Salza Irpinia and covers 25 hectares most of which is vineyards. In 1986 they produced their first wines and the Di Meo winery was born. Their goal was to produce wine from the native grapes of the area such as Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe, Aglianico and Falinghina.

img_0025DI maoTasting wine with Roberto at the winery

Today the company is run by Roberto who is the oenologist, wine maker and sales manager.

The White WinesIMG_9609Campania Falanghina IGT made from 100% Falanghina from Guardia Sanframondi (BN) at 500 meters. The vines were planted in 2005. The exposure is south/east and the soil is clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning.  Manual harvest of select bunches in 15 kg baskets tales place the first week of October.  Cryomaceration followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel for about 3 months and 3 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of apple, litchi, dried fruit and thyme with a flowery note.  $$25.99

IMG_9610Fiano di Avellino DOCG made from 100% Fiano from Salza Irpinia at 520 meters. The vines were planted in 2003. Soil is mainly clay, the exposure is north/east and there are 5,000 plants per hectare. Training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest of select bunches in 15 kg baskets  the first week of October.  Cryomaceration  is followed by a soft pressing of the grapes.  Fermentation is at a controlled temperature in stainless steel for about 3 months and 3 months in bottle before release. This is a well balanced elegant wine with fruity scents, mainly peach, litchi and citrus with a slight mineral note. $31.99

IMG_9612Fiano di Avellino “Alessandra” 2013 made from 100% Fiano The wine is named after the mother of the Di Meo brothers. Produced from  Fiano vineyards surrounding the Salza Irpinia winery. The Vigna Alessandra was planted in 1995 and is at 550 meters. Soil composition is clay and semi-limestone and the exposure is northeast. There are 4,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with monolateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest takes place the second week of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes, then maceration with the skins. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for 8 years and then for 12 months in bottle before release. This is an elegant wine with flowery notes of mimosa, chamomile acacia honey and a touch of smoke.

IMG_9611Greco di Tufo DOCG Made from 100% Greco from Santa Paolina and Tufo (AV) at 480 meters. The vines were planted in 2017.  The composition of the soil varies considerably, but mainly it is clay and limestone. Exposure in north/west and there are 4,000 vines per hectare. The training system is espalier with mono lateral guyot pruning. Manual harvest takes place the second week of October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes, then maceration with the skins. Fermentation is at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for 8 years and then for 12 months in bottle before release.  This is a fruit forward  wine with delicate aromas of orange blossoms, cedar, lime and a hint of exotic fruits. $31.99

IMG_9613Greco di Tuffo “Vittorio”  2008 100% Greco from Montefusco (AV) at 750 meters.  This wine bears the name of Erminia’s father, Generoso and Roberto Di Meo  and the latter’s son.  The vines were planted in 1998 and the soil is clay and limestone with steep slopes on a gradient greater than 20% with a north/east exposure. There are 3,500 plants per hectare and the training system is espalier with guyot pruning. Harvest is the second  week of October. From slightly over ripe grapes. There is maceration on the skins followed by fermentation  at a controlled temperature for 12 years, then 24 months in bottle before release. This is a wine with hints of beeswax, honey, cedar, apple, a touch of flint and slate with good acidity and minerality. The producer refers to the wine as warm and enchanting and I have to agree. $106.99.

From long experience I know that Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo can age for 15 years or more before they reach their peak. The Di Meo Winery’s project to age them at the winery is admirable and should be applauded.  What could be better? These wines have been praised by many different publications and have won a number of awards.

Leave a comment

Filed under Di Meo winery, Uncategorized

Hello Grappa

I enjoy Grappa all year round. I often drink it after a meal to help me to digest. Sometimes I put a little in my espresso for what the Italians call “caffe corretto.” I like to drizzle Grappa on my lemon granita and other fruit ices, and I pour a little in fruit salad. Michele also cooks with Grappa, especially in desserts made with chocolate.

helloI have visited Grappa distilleries in Italy on my own and on press trips organized by “Hello Grappa”  because I am passionate about Grappa and always want to know more about it.

When I was invited to a Grappa tasting at Eataly on 5th Ave. in NYC I was happy to accept.  The “Hello Grappa” morning workshop was organized by Balzac Communications. It was a walk around tasting of Grappa from various distilleries in different parts of Italy. There was a short presentation.

Grappa was first called acqua vita, water of life. At one time, it was only a beverage imbibed by farm workers in Northern Italy, especially in the cold months.  It was thought to give them energy before they went into the fields to work and it was a morning drink taken between the hours of 8:00 AM and 10:00 AM. Southern Italy does not have a tradition of Grappa because the weather there is too warm. It is only recently, with the popularity and often-high prices that Grappa has achieved, that wineries in Southern Italy have utilized their grape pomace (vinaccia in Italian) to make Grappa.

Up until about 25 years ago all Grappa was what I call traditional, that is, made without being aged in wood. It was clear in color and the flavor reflected the grapes from which it was made.

Grappa made from white grapes has more aromas and is easier to drink than grappa made from red grapes, although grappa made from red grapes has more taste. If you are going to introduce grappa to someone for the first time it is better to choose a Grappa made from white grapes.

Single grape varieties (monovarietal) are produced with pomace from one type of grape. Pomace is the skins left after the first squeezing of the grapes.  The grape variety can be on the label if at least 85% of the pomace comes from the same grape.

V

Pomace waiting to be made into Grappa

Many Grappas are produced using pomace from several varieties of grape. If each variety exceeds 15% they must be listed on the label in ascending order.

At a distillery there are 100 days of work, 24/7 from September to December. The freshest selected pomace is distilled each day. The distillation takes place in alembics using the traditional discontinuous bain marie system (steam distillation). The first part of the production called the “head” tastes bad because it contains too much methane (it is said to resemble nail polish) and is therefore discarded. The last part is called the “tail” and contains too many impurities and is also discarded. The discontinuous method produces small amounts of high quality Grappa.

AMBThe alembics are handmade out of copper and are excellent conductors of heat. The particular fragrances and aromas of the pomace (a solid raw material made from grape skins) are enhanced to their maximum in order to keep everything uniform. Today almost all distilleries are computerized.

The continuous process of Grappa production in giant stills produces large amounts of Grappa. This type of production produces commercial grappa that is not of a very good quality.

T

Grappa Anfora aged in Terracotta.

Amphorae made from a blend of different types of clay from the Tuscan towns of Montelupo and Impruneta are also used for aging some of the grappa. This type of aging achieves the micro-oxygenation which is twice what you would find using barrels.

After distillation the traditional (clear) Grappa is left alone in steel or glass containers. The Grappa that is to be aged is placed in barrels of different sizes ranging from 225 liter barriques to 1,500 liter barrels, and even larger. If aged for 12 months, the Grappa is called “aged,” and if aged for 18 months, it is called “reserve.” These aged Grappas take on different shades of colors from straw yellow to amber. They are smoother than traditional Grappa but are much more expensive. Grappa can be aged in wooden barrels of oak, cherry and acacia, or stainless steel and amphorae. Some of the oak barrels used once held port.

IMG_9651

Marolo Grappa & Camomile This is a wonderful combination for sipping on its own and for a cold or sore throat in tea.

Grappa can be infused (steeped) with herbal plants such as ruta (rue), which includes a twig in the bottle, grappa camomilla (chamomile), and fruits, such as grappa di mele (apple), grappa di lamponi (raspberry) to name just a few.

Grappa aging is subject to strict control by Italian customs authorities. Inspectors regularly visit the distillery and put seals on the Grappa that has not been bottled to prevent anything being added to the Grappa.IMG_9666

There are 45 distilleries that produce grappa in Italy. According to Italian law, an Italian wine producer cannot make Grappa, but must send it to a licensed distillery. For example, a producer like Banfi will send their pomace to the Bonollo distillery in Siena and tell them what type of Grappa they want, traditional (clear), or aged (in barrels) and the alcohol content they want for their Grappa.

The GrappaIMG_9636

CiVidina  Grappa di Vitigni Artigiana Bepi Tosolini (Fruli-Venezia Giulia) Non-aged, non-vintage, crystal clear. The Grappa is steam distilled in traditional copper stills from the pomace of a mixture of different Friulian grape varieties. It is a clear and fruity full-bodied balanced grappa with hints of citrus, pepper, spice, almonds and floral notes. Perfect for sipping after a meal. $38

IMG_9657Lisa Tosolini, the granddaughter of the owner, was at the tasting

woman

Lisa at the winery speaking about Grappa

I  first met Lisa when I visited the winery a  a few years ago and tasted their “Grappa Smoked.”  This Grappa is distilled by the traditional method with a bain marie pot still.  It is made from Friulian red grape skins and then aged in French oak barriques. The oak casks have gone through a toasting process with Kentucky tobacco leaves. This is a dry and intense  smoked Grappa which tasted like an aged single malt whiskey. This was a first for me and another new twist to what is being done with Grappa.

IMG_9639Poli Distillerie (Veneto) Grappa Cleopatra Moscato Oro Made from Moscato Fior d’Arancio and Moscato Bianco grapes from the Colli Euganei. Distilled with the innovative bain-marie (double boiler vacuum still). Aged for a brief period in oak barrels in the underground cellars of the distillery. It has hints of fresh fruit, honey, citrus and floral notes. According to the producer, the Poli Crysopea is an innovative bain-marie vacuum still equipped with a column without distillation plates. Poli was established in 1898.

IMG_9637La Corte Distilleria Franciacorta (Lombardy) Traditional steam distillation of fresh Franciacorta Marc. This is a clear unaged Grappa with floral notes and a touch of citrus and red fruit.

IMG_9638Grappa Italiana Caffo — Unaged grappa produced at Caffo Distilleria in Udine. Made from 95% Magliocco and Gaglioppo grapes and 5% Pinot Grigio. Distilled twice in a bain-marie style alembic pot-the skins are steam distilled. It has floral notes, underripe tropical fruit, pear a hint of toasted rice and a touch of fresh cream.

IMG_9640Grappa di Barolo Riserva  Mazzetti D’Altavilla made from 100% Nebbiolo. After distillation the Grappa is stored in oak barrels for 2 to 5 years in order to change its original sensory profile. It has hints of dry and is pleasantly tannic with hints of spicy licorice, tobacco, vanilla and leather toasted notes.

IMG_9641 Grappino Bertagnolli Trentino-Alto Adige. The pomace is a blend of 80% Teroldego and 20% Chardonnay. When the pomace reaches the distillery it is already fermented and immediately distilled. The distillery utilizes six steam-fired stills to implement the continuous “waterbath” method which allows Bertagnolli to distill just once while still achieving a smooth and velvety grappa. It is a clear Grappa, aromatic with hints of red fruit. $30

IMG_9646Distilleria Marzadro Diciotto Luna Marzadro (Trentino-Alto Adige) made from Marzemino, Teroldego, Merlot, Moscato and Chardonnay.  Traditional distillation in pot stills and aged in small wooden barrels of cherry, ash, oak and Robinia. The aging time follows the rhythms of nature, from moon to moon over 18 months. It is amber in color with hints of cherry, raisins, tobacco and a touch of vanilla. $38

IMG_9641 2Delta Distilleria Grappa di Chianti (Tuscany) Clear grappa made from Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot and Canaiolo. Traditional distillation. Clear, balanced Grappa with floral notes and red fruit $40

IMG_9642 2Distillerie Bonollo (Tuscany) Consenso Grappa Chianti Classico Riserva aged in rovere (oak), acacia, frassino (ash) and ciliegio (cherry).  The grappa is light in color for one aged in wood. It was balanced with hints of red fruit.  Bonollo, like other distilleries, have plants in different parts pf Italy

IMG_9645Grappa Gra’it Bonolo This is a clear grappa aged in large Slavonian oak casks with just a hint of the wood. It was especially made for mixed drinks and is a “lighter style” Grappa. It is made from the skins of seven different grapes: Prosecco (Glera), Moscato d’Asti, Nebbiolo (Barolo), Nero d’Avola,

fullsizeoutput_28cecastaCastagner Grappa Casta. Friuli-Venezia Giulia This grappa is made from 85% Glera grapes, which are white grapes used to make Prosecco. It is 40 proof. The Grappa is distilled 5 times to insure purity and is specially formulated for cocktails.

There are over 4,000 Grappa labels on the market today.

Sometimes the Grappa we buy in the US does not taste the same as the ones we drink in Italy even if the labels are the same. Many Grappas imported to the US are “made for the American market” and are much lighter and smoother in style than the ones available in Italy.

I finished the tasting with the following Grappa cocktail.

IMG_9649

1 Comment

Filed under Grappa, Uncategorized

Varvaglione Del 1921-Good Wines, Good Price

The first time I tasted the wines of Varvaglione Dal 1921 was at a Radici Del Sud tasting in Puglia a number of years ago and liked the wines. Over the years I received samples from the winery and I included them in blogs I wrote on wines under $20. The last samples I received were in 2019 and the wines I tasted then were priced at $15 a bottle — a real bargain.

IMG_9556When I received an invitation from Noemi Mengo of Colangelo & Partners to attend a tasting of their wines at Back Barn Restaurant in NYC I was happy to accept.  I looked forward to trying the current vintages.

What made it even more interesting was the speaker, Marzia Varvaglione, the daughter of the owners and the marketing director.

IMG_9558Marzia is a charming, interesting speaker and was happy to share her information about the winery.

The winery is located in Leporano on the Gulf of Taranto in the Salento region of Puglia. They have 150 hectares of vineyards and contracts with grape growers who have been with them for over 30 years. Marzia said that the soil is mostly clay which makes it ideal for growing grapes.  Cosimo and Maria Teresa Varvaglione, her parents, are the owners of the winery and Cosimo is also the winemaker.  Marzia is the fourth generation of her family in the wine business and Varvaglione is the largest family-run winery in Puglia. She said their philosophy is combining new technology with old traditions.

The Wines

IMG_955212 e Mezzo Chardonnay Biologico Puglia IGP 2022 made from Chardonnay and Malvasia Bianca. The grapes are hand harvest when they are fully ripe. There is a careful selection of the grapes in the winery followed by a soft pressing of the grapes. Fermentation is in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. The wine remains in stainless steel for a time before being bottled. This is a light to medium bodied white wine with hint of citrus fruit, lemon, apricot a note of lavender and good acidity. $20  Marzia said the name means “12 and a half,” for the wines’ 12.5 percent alcohol by volume and the grapes are from young vines.

IMG_954812 e Mezzo Primitivo Biologico Puglia IGP 2021 made from 100% Primitivo from young vines. Fermentation and maceration take place in stainless steel at a controlled temperature for 15/20 days.  After malolactic fermentation the wine spends a brief time in stainless steel before being bottled. This is a balanced, easy drinking wine with hints of currants, violets, blackberries, nutmeg and a touch of blackberries.   $18

Marzia said Primitivo ripens early and the grapes are the first to be picked.

IMG_9549Susumaniello Puglia IGP 2023 made fron 100% Susumaniello. There is a short maceration prior to  fermentation of de-stemmed grapes at a controlled temperature to extract characteristic aromas. Fermentation is for 15 days at a controlled temperature. The wine is then separated from the skins to start malolactic fermentation. Aging is for six months in large barrels. The wine has soft tannins with hints of red cherry, plum, blueberry, a touch of spice and a balsamic note.

Marzia said Susumaniello means “little donkey” in Puglian dialect because the vines at harvest time appear to almost struggle under the weight of so many grape clusters. Marzia said the traditional high yields can be a problem if left unchecked. However, when abundant yields began to decrease, the grapes reveal outstanding qualities, making wines with great structure, elegance and aromas.  A really delightful wine that I drank with lunch. $16. They also make a rose.

IMG_9550Papale Linea Oro Primitivo di Manduria DOP made from 100% Primitivo di Manduria.  Vinification and maceration takes place at a controlled temperature. After malolactic fermentation the wine is aged in French barrels and American barriques for at least 10 months. This is a round and smooth wine with hints of black plum, fruit jam, spice and red fruits of the woods. It would pair well with red meat and game. This is a wine that will age. $30.

Marzia said that because of the heat, the vines are Alberello-trained (small bushes) so that they develop deep roots to reach the water.

All of the Varvaglione wines that I tasted were very good wines that are available at a great price.

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized, Varvaglione Dal 1921

The World Wine Guys on White Wine

IMG_9536Mike De Simone and Jeff Jenssen, known as The Wine Guys, have written a new book entitled White Wine: The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties & Styles.  The award-winning duo introduced their book at an event hosted by Pinot Grigio Della Venezia.  Regine T Rousseau, the brand ambassador for Pinot Grigio Della Venezia and a very close friend of Mike and Jeff, was the moderator.

IMG_9497 2The event was made possible by the Consorzio Tutela della Venezia DOC Pinot Grigio. Venezia Pinot Grigio is the second largest DOC in Italy. The Director of the Consorzio, Flavio Innocenzi,  spoke about the wines of Pinot Grigio DOC Venezia and how the Consorzio was very happy to support Mike and Jeff’s new book. He announced that after the talk there would be a tasting of 127 wines from Pinot Grigio Venezia.

IMG_9560 2The tasting included some examples of the new Rosè Pinot Grigio, a wine I had not tasted before.

IMG_9495

Jeff Jenssen and Mike De Simone

I have known Mike and Jeff for a number of years and on occasion I have enjoyed drinking a bottle of wine or two with them. Their books have won a number of awards and I was very interested in hearing their talk.

They told us that after writing their award-winning book on red wine, they felt the next step was to write a book on white wine. However they were in for a surprise when they went to their publisher. He did not want a book on white wine. He felt that the more serious wine drinkers do not drink white wine and he  did not think the book would sell.

Mike and Jeff disagreed. They felt that white wine has grown in popularity in recent years. Many people are eating lighter and white wine tends to match lighter food better. Younger drinkers are gravitating toward lower-alcohol wines as well, a category into which many white wines easily fall. There are also many high quality white wines like White Burgundy, German Riesling, Tokaji Azsù, Condrieu and Champagne. They wanted to write a book for anyone, amateur or professional, who is interested in wine.  Fortunately, they were able to find a new publisher who agreed with them and so the book was published.

Unlike many wine books that start with geography, the authors tell the story of white wine through the grapes and styles themselves.  Every book has space constraints, so they chose the 50 white grapes (in alphabetical order) which they believed to be the most popular and available at a local wine store.

moscatoThe second portion of the book covers “Styles and Blends,” such as Bordeaux, Marsala and Prosecco.

The same white grapes varieties are grown in many countries but they listed the grapes by country of origin. There was one exception — Pinot Gris — whose country of origin is France. They listed it as Pinot Grigio because they feel that the Italian name is much more popular.

In answer to a question from the audience, the authors said they tasted the wines blind.  All of the wines were in the same price range. The book features a price guide:  Bargain up to $20, Value $21 to $40, Special Occasion $41 to $90 and Splurge up to $100.

Mike and Jeff’s new book is a valuable tool and reference source for anyone interested in white wine.  It’s the perfect companion to red wine book, Red Wine:  The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Varieties and Styles, co-authored with Kevin Zraly.

I am looking forward to the next book from the Wine Guys.

IMG_9499A last salute as we felt to try and taste the 127 wines with Mike, Jeff, Flavio Innocenzi , Marina Nedic of IMME who organized the event and Regina T Rousseau.

Someone asked how do they choose the producers they listed in the book. Their first choice was the producers who’s wines they liked the best.

\

Leave a comment

Filed under Mike and Jeff White Wine Book, Uncategorized, White wine

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

I have always enjoyed Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines and have visited the town of Montepulciano in Tuscany and the wineries on a number of occasions. When I was invited to the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Master Class & Guided Tasting “The History Teller” by the Consorzio and Marina Nordic of @ieemusa (IEEM USA) I accepted.

IMG_9448Many years ago, a wine writer said that the problem with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is that it is “caught in the shadow between Chianti and Brunello. This is really not true because Vino Nobile was the first DOCG to appear on the Italian market and is a renowned red wine that stands on its own.

In 1997, I was in Montepulcinao on a press trip with Marina Thompson of Thompson International Marketing (Daniele Cernilli’s wife) when the Vino Nobile Consortium was debating the idea of adding international grapes especially Merlot. All of the wine writers on the press trip were against it but the Consortium approved it anyway. I guess they want to add Merlot as they hoped it would help sell their wine.

Today, after all those years I am very happy to report that starting with the 2021 Vintage Merlot will no longer be allowed in the blend. The minimum amount of Sangiovese will go from 70% to 85% and only indigenous grapes like Canaiolo, Colorino and Mammolo can be in the blend.

In order to highlight Vino Nobile di Montepuliciano’s significant personality, and avoid any confusion with Montepulcinao d’Abruzzo, some producers will now refer  their wines simply as “Nobile” instead of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  Like the adding of Merlot, this is a mistake.  Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has a long history and tradition in its name.

The Tasting

The speakers at the event were Andrea Rossi, President of the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulcino and Antonio Galloni, Wine Critic & Founder of Vinous, who was the principal speaker.  Mr. Rossi spoke about the Consorzio and Montepulciano.

IMG_9451Maria Stella Carletti from Poliziano, Antonio Galloni, Andrea Rossi and Luca de Ferrari of Boscarelli

I have never met Mr. Galloni or heard him speak before only knowing him by reputation. He was very interesting and knowledgeable about Vino Nobile but also about Italian wine in general. He answered all questions completely and also voiced his opinion about the individual wines.  I applaud EMMI and the Consorzio for choosing Mr. Galloni as the main speaker.

IMG_9483Vino Noble di Montepulciano

The Vino Nobile production zone is positioned on a hilly ridge between Val di Chiana and Val d’Orcia at altitudes between 820 and 1900 feet. The climate is largely influenced by the nearby Trasimeno Lake, with soils composed of marine fossils, sandstone, salt rich clay and precious silt deposits.

Prugnolo Gentile is the local name for the Sangiovese grape and some producers use either name while others use both.The town of Montepulciano in Tuscany is the center for Vino Nobile vinification. Both vinification and aging must by law take place in the municipal area of Montepulciano.

Vino Nobile is aged for a minimum of two years, including one in oak barrels or casks and three years total in order to be called a Riserva.

There were 11 wines in total at the tasting.  The following are the first 6.

TVino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020 “Alboreto” Talosa made from 100% Sangiovese. The vineyard is at 350/400 meters the exposure is south/west and the training system is spurred cordon. There is a manual selection of the grapes from the last week of September to the first week of October. After a careful selection of grapes, the fermentation time is about 15-20 days at controlled temperatures in cone-shaped stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. Then malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The maturation is for 2 years in tonneaux of 2nd, 3rd and 4th passage and big barrels and stainless steel for another 2 months. The finished wine continues to be aged in bottle before release. This is an easy drinking wine with hints of plum, blackberries, a touch of strawberry and a hint of pepper. The wine will last for 10 years or so but could be enjoyed sooner. The winery suggests to drink it with pici and tuscan ragu.  Mr Galloni said this was an easy drinking wine characteristic of the area. It was a good choice as the first wine. At around $20, it’s a bargain.

IMG_9459

 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2020 DEI Made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. The soil is mostly clay with sand (tuff) and the vineyard is at 300 meters. There is a soft pressing of the grapes followed by spontaneous fermentation with the use of indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Maturation on the skins for 15/25 days with pumping over. Aging is for at least 24 months of which a minimum of 18 months is in wood. The wine remains in bottle for some time before release. The wine has hints of cherry, plum and violets with a hint of coffee and a touch of vanilla. The winery suggested serving it with braised beef cheek with mashed potatoes. $38. I visited the winery a number of years ago.

IMG_9460Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Selezione “Asinine” 2020 made from 100% Sangiovese Poliziano.  The vineyard is at 380 to 400 meters and the soil is clay and silt with embedded fossils. Training system is guyot and spur pruned cordon. Vines are from 3 to 53 years old. Fermentation is in stainless steel vats for 20 to 25 days with cultured yeasts from the vineyard. Malolactic fermentation in 6,000 to 8,000 French oak vats. Filtration is with 5-micron polypropylene cartridges.  Aging is in tonneaux, new French oak and second passage French oak for 20 months and at least 8 months in bottle before release. Sustainable framing practices and the wine is vegan. The winery suggests werving Fiorentina steak with the wine.  I visited the winery 25 years ago and have always liked their wines. This is a rich and vibrant wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, strawberry, plum, violets. Mr Galloni really liked this wine saying it had bright red fruit, good acidity and would age for 10 years or more. It was one of my favorites.

Maria Stella Carletti, a member of the family that owns the winery, was present and spoke about the winery.  After the tasting, I told her I visited the winery for the first time in 1997. She smiled and said she was born a few years later.

IMG_9461Vino Noble di Montepulciano “La Braccesca” 2020 Tenuta La Braccesca,  Antinori Made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, The vineyard is at 290 meters with a northeast exposure. The soil is sandy loam in very fine gravel. Each grape variety was harvested separately, destemmed and delicately crushed. The must was transferred into stainless steel vats where alcoholic fermentation took place at a controlled temperature of 28 °C (82 °F) to preserve the fruit’s aromatic profile. Maceration on the skins lasted for a period of 10 days and closely monitored cap management techniques focused on enhancing structure and extracting only the sweetest tannins. The resulting wine was transferred into large format barrels where malolactic fermentation took place and, starting from the following spring season, began aging for approximately 12 months. The wine was bottled in spring 2020 and was aged for one additional year in the bottle. The wine has notes of red fruit, strawberries and cherries with a hint of spice and a touch of vanilla. Mr Galloni said that in the past this was a heavy wine but over the last few years it has become lighter in style. $30

IMG_9463Vino Noble di Montepulciano “Vigna d’Afiero Selezione 2020 Tenuta Valdipiatta made from 100% Sangiovese. The training system is spur pruned cordon and guyot. Vinification is in steel tanks at controlled temperatures between 24 and 28 °C. Maceration on the skins for 20-25 days. Daily pump over and délestage at the beginning and in the middle of fermentation. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation takes place in temperature controlled steel tanks. Fermentation is temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with daily pumping over and maceration lasts for 20 days. Malolactic fermentation is in stainless steel. The wine is aged in French Allier barriques (225 liters) 20% new oak for 18 months. The wine remains in the bottle for a period of time before release. The wine has hints of black cherry, dark chocolate, balsamic notes and a touch of vanilla   The food suggestion was pasta with  duck ragu, roasts, grilled meats, spit-roasted liver wrapped in bay leaves and middle to aged sheep’s milk cheese. $40

IMG_9481Vino Noble di Montepulciano 2020 Boscarelli made fro 85% Sangiovese and 15% Canaiolo. Alluvial and sandy lime soil with a good percentage of silt, clay and stony structure that vary between layers according to altitude. There are about 6,500 vines per hectare. Vineyards are at least 10 years old. The grapes are picked manually and transported in crates. After de-stemming and soft pressing, they are fermented in oak vats filled to no more than two-thirds of their capacity. Indigenous yeast is used in the fermentation process that lasts about a week at controlled temperatures from 28 to 30 degrees. Short manual re-passing of the must and pomace is completed in the initial phase. Pulping continues, where possible, for another 5 to 8 days after fermentation. This wine is aged in Allier or Slavonian oak casks of capacity ranging from 5 to 35 hectoliters, where malolactic fermentation occurs. Maturation takes from 18 to 24 months. Before the release the wine ages in the bottle for several months.  Food pairing suggestions:  grilled roasted or braised red meat, game and seasoned cheese. The wine has hints of strawberry, violets, sage and a note of blueberry. Drink within 8 years. The owner of the winery Luca de Ferrari was at the event and spoke about the winery.  I have always been a fan of this winery.  $45

Next time Introducing Le Piece, a new terroir-specific denomination of Vino Noble di Montepulcino and the last 5 wines

1 Comment

Filed under Uncategorized

Dining with Bacchus

An invitation to dine with Bacchus doesn’t come every day, so I was happy to accept the intriguing invitation from the Italian Trade Agency to a dinner and wine tasting at the Hotel Renaissance in NYC.

IMG_8741We were greeted with a glass of Rotari Brut when we entered.

The Italian Trade Commissioner, Antonio Laspina, welcomed guests and spoke about Italian wine and the evening’s event. He explained that the Italian Trade Agency, along with Colangelo & Partners, had organized a series of “Dining with Bacchus” dinners and tastings around the country and this was the final one.Their goal was to promote both traditional Italian food and wine combinations and at the same time educate US wine industry professionals on Italian wine pairing opportunities with diverse cuisines. The idea, Mr. Laspina explained, was to both embrace yet debunk the concept that “what grows together, goes together.”

IMG_8736Chef Fabrizio Facchini prepared dishes to go with each wine and spoke about them.  It was set up like a dinner with Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, and Dolci. Anthony Giglio was the master of ceremonies and spoke about the wine and added comments on the food and wine combinations. It was a very large group and Mr. Giglio did an job excellent with his sense of humor and knowledge of Italian wine

IMG_8738Trento DOC Brut 2015 Rotari (Trent) made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  The lots are married together with 5-7% of Chardonnay fermented in oak with partial malolactic fermentation.  Once the cuvée is made, the wine is cold stabilized, filtered and ready for the second fermentation. Secondary fermentation is maintained at a critically controlled temperature of approximately 53-56°F. First the filtered wine is chilled to 53°F and then chilled yeast is added to make sure a slow fermentation is maintained from the outset. This approach guarantees that the fermentation lasts for at least 40 days so that it develops the fine perlage found in Rotari. The wine rests on the lees for more than 24 months at a temperature of between 56–58°F. During the aging process there is a routine remuage utilizing giro-palettes. Following the aging in the bottle, there is disgorgement and addition of the proprietary dosage. The dosage is comprised of Chardonnay from the same vintage matured in neutral oak barrels which provides the wine with greater aromas without oak impact. The wine has hints of peach, citrus fruit, white stone fruit and a touch of brioche.

Antipasti

IMG_8746Prosecco Rosé DOC 2020  Riondo vintage dated sparkling wine (Veneto). Made from 90% Glera and 10% Pinot Noir. The residual sugar is 16 g/l. There is a cold fermentation of the grapes and the primary fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature followed by a secondary fermentation in stainless steel pressurized tanks for two months. The wine has hints of roses, violets, and raspberry with a note of apple and a touch of peach. Served with chicken wings roasted and glazed with a mild sauce.

IIMG_8742Isonzo Del Friuli DOC 2018 made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc Sant’Elena (Friuli-Venezia-Giulia). The wine has notes of kiwi, melon, lemon and a note of almonds with a long finish. Caesar salad topped with croutons and anchovies

Umbria IGT White Grechetto 2021 (Umbria) made from 100% Grechetto Barberani from a 5 hectare vineyard at 200/300 meters. The soil is sedimentary with the presence of marine fossils, pebbles and calcareous agglomerations. There are 4,500 plants per hectare, the training system is double guyot and the vines are 30 years old. The manual  harvest is  August/ September. Light lemon finish with hints of citrus fruit, apples a touch of spice and a note of almonds. Insalata Di Mare with squid, octopus, shrimp, mussels, celery & mesclun

IMG_8750Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2020 “Margie” Damilano (Piedmont) made from 100% Nebbiolo from an 18 hectare vineyard at 1,500 ft with a southeastern /southern exposure.  Calcareous and tufa based soil, the training system is guyot and the vines are about 40 years old. Harvest is in October and fermentation is in stainless steel tanks for 12 days. The wine is aged  in 20hl to 100hl oak barrels for 12 months and for 2 months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of red fruit, violets, cherry with a touch of licorice and a note of violets. Affettati — 24 month prosciutto di Parma DOP, speck Alto Adige IGP

IMG_8751Chianti Classico DOCG 2021 Castellare di Castellina (Tuscany) made from 95% Sangiovese and  5% Canaiolo from vineyards at 350/400 meters. Limestone soil and the training system is guyot single arched cane. There are 3,500 plants per hectare. Harvest is in October. Vinification is in steel and malolactic fermentation is completed. The wine is aged in French oak barrels of 225 liters and 5hl for 7 months and in bottle for another 7 months before bottling. The wine has hints of red fruit, licorice, black currant and a note of vanilla. Cheese plate — Parmigiano Reggiano DOP and Taleggio DOP

IMG_8752Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Riserva DOC 2017 “Ruberò” (Abruzzo) Cantina Frentana made from 100% Montepulciano. The vineyards are in the municipality of Rocca San Giovanni, situated on hills overlooking the Costa del Trabocchi with a south/southeastern exposure. The soil is medium textured and calcareous. Harvest is manual the second week in October. There is a soft pressing of the grapes with maceration and fermentation with the skins for 10/15 days in small stainless steel fermenters at a controlled temperature. The wine is aged in French tonneau oak barrels for about 14 months, then more aging in stainless steel and then in the bottle for a few months. The wine has hints of black cherry, blackberry, violets with a note of spice and leather.

Pasta di Gragnano IGP with a ragu of pork and beef ribs cooked slowly with San Marzano DOP tomatoes.

Lambrusco di Modena DOC Organic (Emilia-Romagna) Tenuta Agricola Cleto Chiarli made from 100% Grasparossa from a vineyard at 100 meters with 9 year old vines. The soil is brown to red in color with a superficial layer of loamy texture, alluvial sediment, coarse gravel and slightly alkaline. The training system is Geneva double Curtin. Vinification is with selected yeasts. Wine is in contact with the lees durning cold stabilization for 2 months. No second fermentation, only a single fermentation under pressure. A cross flow filter is used, Malolactic fermentation does not take place. The wine is aged for one month in the bottle. Residual sugar 15 g/lt has hints of red fruit, strawberry, raspberry and cherry.

Tortellini alla Bolognese, Veal stuffed tortellini cooked in chicken broth

Secondi

Greco di Tufo 2020 DOCG Feudi Di San Gregorio made from 100% Greco (Campania) The soil is chalky. Alcoholic fermentation is in stainless steel tanks. Maturation is for about 4 months in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. .The wine has floral notes with hints of citrus fruit, pear and apricot with good acidity.

Chicken Curry — Chicken thigh cooked in Indian curry style with Basmati rice.

IMG_8758Est! Est! Est!!! Di Montefiascone DOP  Lazio 2021 “Le Pòggere”2021 Falesco (Umbria). Made from 60% Trebbiano, 15% Rossetto and 25% Malvasia from a 150 hectare vineyard at 300 meters. The average age of the vines is 18 years and the training system is spun cordon.There are 3,000 vines per hectare and the soil is crumbly with many pebbles. There is a soft pressing of the whole cluster grapes with an automatic press. The must settles for 24/48 hours and is racked to stainless steel vats where fermentation starts and is carried out at a controlled temperature with the addition of selected indigenous yeasts. The wine is left in contact with the yeasts for some days before being racked and when the wine is ready it is bottled very early to keep its freshness and taste. This is an aromatic wine that has floral and fruity notes with good acidity.

Porchetta, Roasted pork belly stuffed with garlic and wild bronze fennel

IMG_8759Carignano del Sulcis DOC 2013 “Grotta Rossa” Santadi (Sardegna) made from 100% Carignano from bush grown and counter espalier vineyards in the lower Sulcis. Soil is of medium mixture, lose with clay, sand and limestone. Harvest starts in the middle of September and ends the first week of October. The must is fermented with the skins at controlled temperature. There is  pumping over. Malolactic fermentation takes place and then the wine ages in cement vats for several months before bottling. This is an intense fruity wine with a licorice finish.

Braised beef with maple syrup. Slow cooked, low temperature ribs with maple syrup

Dolci

Mondoro Asti DOCG (Piemonte) made from 100% Moscato from grapes in vineyards situated in the territory of Canelli, Santo Stefano, Belbo and Calosso. The Asti Method: Grapes are crushed and the juice is stored at a low temperature until needed. When the wine is ready to be made the grape juice is warmed and fermentation takes place in pressurized tanks. Carbon dioxide is allowed to escape until the alcohol level reaches 6% and the Carbon dioxide is retained creating bubbles. Fermentation continues until it reaches 7%/7.5 alcohol by volume and the pressure is close to 5 atmospheres. The fermentation is stopped by chill filtration and the wine is bottled for immediate release. The wine has hints of honey, peach, pears and a note of orange blossom. Alcohol is 7%

Panettone, Fiasconaro, Sicily

Terre Siciliane IGP “Kio” 2017 Nocera Passito Tenuta di Mastronicola (Sicily) made from 100% Nocera from a vineyard at 110 meters. The soil is medium mixed tending to calcareous. The training system is spurred cordon and the green harvest reduces about 40% of the grapes. Harvest is in mid November. Vinification is in small stainless steel tanks for about 10 months during which manual punching down of the raisin grapes is carried out. The wine is aged in French oak barrels for 24 months and in bottle for six months before release. The wine has hints of liquor infused cherries, blackberries, jam, prune, chocolate and notes of vanilla.

Bis Di Cioccolato — Modicao Cioccolato di Modica IGP (Vanilla), Sicily and Venchi Cioccolato Fondente 80% (South American blend), Piemonte.

Not surprisingly, all of the traditional wine and food pairings worked beautifully as did many of the non-traditional combinations, though I might have chosen different Italian wines to pair with some of the dishes.

Leave a comment

Filed under Uncategorized