Despite the difficulties this year, we were able to maintain a few holiday traditions. One that we always look forward to is having Christmas dinner at the home of Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow.
We began with a toast.
Brut Methode Traditional 2018 made from 100% Gringet, an endemic grape variety of Savoie France Domaine Belluard. The vineyard is at 450 meters and the exposure is south. The soil is chalky of the Chablais Mountains with little stones. Glacier sediments: yellow marls. Hand-operated harvest. There is a very soft pressing of the grapes. Traditional vinification with alcoholic and malolactic fermentation with native bacteria and yeast takes place. 60% of the vinification is carried out in an egg-shaped concrete vat. Rough filtration on egg whites. The wine has floral notes, pleasant fruity aromas and flavors, a hint of apple, and touch of minerality. The winery is located in the heart of the valley of the Arve between Geneva and Chamonix Mont-Blanc.
With the sparkling wine there were three appetizers
Smoked salmon on rye bread.
Stuffed Mushrooms with breadcrumbs and cheese.
We also had foie gras toasts.
At the table, we had
Irpina Aglianico 2016 “Memini” Az. Ag. Guastaferro made from 100% Aglianico. The wine bursts with sweet ripe fruit of cherry, raspberry, strawberry and pomegranate. It has a wonderful fruit filled finish and a very long aftertaste. It was a very interesting Aglianico and I have never tasted one like this before. Daniele Cernelli (aka Doctor Wine) in his book The Essential Guide to Italian Wine 2020 states: … In 2002 Raffaele Guastaferro inherited 10 hectares from his grandfather with over 100 year old vines trained using the old starseto (pergola Avellinese) method…creating a very interesting style for the wines that were also based on tradition.
Our first course was Pizza Rustica, a Southern Italian savory pie filled with ricotta, prosciutto and salame.
There are many versions and every cook, has his or her own interpretation. But Diane’s was outstanding for its balance of flavors and tender, perfectly baked crust. We asked for a generous slice to take home with us for lunch the next day!
On the plate
B
Barbaresco 2001 “Roncagile” Poderi Colla made from 100% Nebbiolo. The vineyard has a south, south–west exposure and is at 240/280 meters. There are about 4,000/5,000 vines per hectare and the years of planting were 1970-1980-1995-2010. Harvest is manual and takes place the 5th to 15th of October. The grapes are destemmed and crushed and maceration with the skins takes place from 12/15 days. There is a complete malolactic fermentation before the winter. In the spring the wines goes into Slavonian oak bottles for 12/4 months. This is a complex wine with hints of blackberries, blueberries a hint of violets, rose petal and a touch of spice. I visited the winery a few years ago and liked all their wines.
To accompany the main course, we had escarole sauteed with garlic, raisins and pine nuts.
Our main course was a rolled, stuffed veal breast which made a beautiful presentation. The filling included greens and mushrooms.
The veal and escarole were served with roasted potatoes
Barbaresco 1999 Bruno Giacosa made from 100% Nebbiolo. The exposure is southwest; the soil is calcareous clay with a good percentage of sand. There are 4,000 vines per hectare. Fermentation and maceration is in stainless steel vats for 21 days. Malolactic fermentation is complete developed. The wine is aged for 18 months in 110HL botti casks of French oak and eight months in bottle before release. The wine has hints of raspberry, plum, blueberries a touch of violets and a note of tobacco
There were a few cheeses to finish the wine.
Dessert was a Tarte Tatin, made by Michele. We had creme fraiche on the side.
On the plate. I like every type of apple tart, but this has to be my favorite.
We finished this perfect meal with espresso and Marolo Barbera grappa.
Another feast! I am particularly tempted by the escarole. We had planned to retire in North Carolina, but I had a hissy fit when I realized that no escarole was to be had in the grocery stores. Interesting, considering that I disliked it entirely as a kid. 🙂 Happy New Year!
Ciao Angela. I love escarole- A Happy and Healthy New Year
Happy New Year, Charles!
Very glad you enjoyed this year’s dinner and its wines. Your post reminded me that I’ve got to get some more Guastaferro, if I can find any.
I never thanked you for letting me know about Tommaso’s death. Do you have any more details? Was it Covid, do you think, or something he’d suffered with for a long time? We had lost touch in recent years – somehow we could just never work ourselves up for the long schlep out to his restaurant. But I still felt we were friends, even though he could be a difficult person. He had lots of talents to compensate for his quirks. I can’t imagine what will happen to the restaurant without him.
Ah well: His death is only one of the losses 2020 managed to inflict. Let’s hope 2021 does better.
Love to you and Michele. Stay healthy.
Tom (and of course Diane)
Thomas E. Maresca
79 West 12th Street
New York, NY 10011
Phone & fax 212-741-7510
tmaresca2@gmail.com
Blog: Tom’s Wine Line
Digital book: http://www.thestrangenessofallegory.net
From: Charles Scicolone on Wine Reply-To: Charles Scicolone on Wine Date: Thursday, December 31, 2020 at 9:27 AM To: Subject: [New post] A Christmas Tradition
Charles Scicolone posted: “Despite the difficulties this year, we were able to maintain a few holiday traditions. One that we always look forward to is having Christmas dinner at the home of Tom Maresca and Diane Darrow. We began with a toast. Brut Methode Traditional 2018 made fro”
Except for the Grappa it sounds so wonderful. Happy New Year
Tom Maresca has to have his Grappa-Have a happy and healthy New Year
Happy New Year to you and Michele!
Ciao John. a Happy and Healthy New Year
What a lovely meal and such wonderful wines. So nice to know you four are all doing well and celebrating in style the holiday season. Happy New Year.
Ciao Susannah we try our best- have a happy and healthy New Year and hope to see you in 2021
Great post! I enjoyed the wine reviews and the food pairings. The Aglianico sounded delicious and two old Barbaresco’s seemed to be quite different from each other. I don’t drink grappa very often now, but I know how good the Marolo’s are!
Ciao David -the Aglianico was delicious and the Barbarescos were both excellent but easy to tell apart
Pretty Fabulous!
Despite all that’s occurred you and Michelle managed to maintain a quality of life that most cannot dream.
Enjoy
Happy New Year
Be Safe &
Thank You 🙏🏼
Ciao We try to do our best.
Mr. Charles, thanks for the nice words about my Aglianico I hope you can also try my taurasi especially the reserves that are made with vines that are over 200 years old, if you can send my best regards also to tom maresca I hope to see him again soon maybe come and visit me with taurasi, happy 2021 raffaele
Ciao Raffaele -thank you. I will give your regards to Tom Maresca. Hopefully I will be in Campania sometime this year. Looking forward to tasting your taurasi Charles