Perfect Panettone

by Michele Scicolone

The secrets of making perfect Panettone, Italy’s traditional Christmas cake, were revealed at a masterclass Charles and I attended, organized by Molino Dallagiovanna, a family-owned and operated flour company in Piacenza, Italy.

Sally Fischer of Sally Fischer Public Relations had invited us to the event which took place at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) in lower Manhattan.  Fabio Del Sorbo, Molino Dallagiovanna’s technician, was our instructor along with Biagio Settepani, the renowned pastry chef, who translated and added commentary of his own.  The two stressed the importance of using the right type of flour, preferably Molino Dallagiovanna’s Panettone Flour, which is high in protein and finely milled to produce the optimum panettone.

Fabio showed us how he prepares and maintains the lievito madre, a stiff type of sourdough starter crafted to contain low acidity, create the right texture, and add flavor to his panettone.  He stressed the importance of wrapping the prepared starter first in plastic, then in burlap, and tying it securely with string into a neat bundle.  This is very important to prevent  the starter from exploding as it ferments.  All of the participants received a portion of the Fabio’s lievito madre to experiment with in their own kitchens.  I put ours in a safe place far from anything fragile.

In addition to the right flour and the right starter, other elements to consider when making panettone are the type and amount of sweeteners, flavorings, and additions, such as dried fruits and nuts.  Temperature and humidity also play a role in making good panettone.  As Maestro Giuseppe Piffaretti, who is the leader of the Panettone World Cup, pointed out, “there is no one recipe” for making panettone.  Every chef creates his own.

The class ended with a tasting of Fabio’s panettone.  It was a work of art — tender, moist and full of fresh flavor.  Just the thing to enjoy with a cup of cappuccino or a glass of sparkling Moscato.

The masterclass was part of a two day program of events culminating in the selection of the finalists who will represent the United States and Canada at the Panettone World Cup to be held on November 8 and 9, 2024 in Milan, Italy, where they will compete for the top chef title in the Traditional Panettone and Chocolate categories.

For more information about Molino Dallagiovanna, contact sfpr@sallyfischerpr.com.

For info about the Coppa del Mondo, contact stampa@coppadelmondodelpanettone.ch.